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Basement membrane damage, a sign of early aginig, and laminin 5, a key player in basement membrane care / Satoshi Amano in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000) . - p. 15-23 Titre : Basement membrane damage, a sign of early aginig, and laminin 5, a key player in basement membrane care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Satoshi Amano, Auteur ; Yukiko Matsunaga, Auteur ; Nobuko Akutsu, Auteur ; Kuniko Kadoya, Auteur ; Minoru Fukuda, Auteur ; Izumi Horii, Auteur ; Tasuku Takamatsu, Auteur ; Eijiro Adachi, Auteur ; Toshio Nishiyama, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 15-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Basement membrane (BM) at the dermalepidermal (D-E) junction plays important roles in maintaining the structure and function of skin. However, little is known about the ultrastructural histology and morphology of BM in young skin. We have found that BM structure even in 30-year-old female skin was alterde and showed disruption and reduplication, while such alternations were scarcely present in skin from subjects in the early 20s. This is consistent with the known changes in skin surface texture in the late 20s and early 30s. Such damage and alteration are thought to be a foremost sign of early aging of skin, since altered BM structure, which may be a result of accumulation of repeated damage during normal daily life, is frequently found in aged people. Therefore, early care of the BM is important to prevent skin aging. BM has a complex anchoring structure involving many components, among which laminin 5 is a key component. Laminin 5 has bifunctional domains which can bind integrins of basal keratinocytes and type VII collagen, forming anchoring fibrils. We found that purified laminin 5 accelerated the formation of BM at the D-E junction in a skin-equivalent model. Furthermore, we found that soybean lysophospholipids stimulate laminin 5 production by human cultured keratinocytes, by using a novel laminin 5-specific sandwich ELISA method. An increase of laminin 5 mRNA levels was also confirmed by the TaqMan PCR method. In the lysophospholipid-treated skin-equivalent model, increased deposition of laminin 5 and type IV collagen and more continuous BM were observed at the D-E junction. These results suggest that increased laminin 5 production in epidermal cells enhances the repair of damaged BM at the D-E junction of skin, and this may be an effective approach to prevent skin aging. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10791 [article]

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Super-rapid drying "dip-in-water" nail enamel / Katsuyuki Kaneko in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000) . - p. 25-29 Titre : Super-rapid drying "dip-in-water" nail enamel Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katsuyuki Kaneko, Auteur ; Ryota Yamasaki, Auteur ; Toshihito Yabu, Auteur ; Yoshikazu Soyama, Auteur ; Yoshimaru Kumano, Auteur ; Isamu Kaneda, Auteur ; Toshio Yanaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 25-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In order to accomplish quick-drying speeds exceeding that of present nail enamels, we have developed an innovative idea, "drying with water" . This idea was based on the concept that the drying process is regarded as a precipitation of film forming ingredients. We anticipated that by dipping the applied nail enamel in water, the solvent would dissolve into the water and minute amounts of the water would be taken into the enamel. These two actions would rapidly decrease the solubility of the film forming ingredients and result in rapid film forming. In order for this work, the solvent should be miscible in water. Most solvents used in conventional enamels are insoluble in water, therefore a new solvent system needed to be investigated. The film formed in water needs to be glossy and wearable. Therefore, various resins in conventional nitrocellulose formula were investigated. From the research below, we have developed a formula for super-quick drying nail enamel with 1/4 to 1/5 the drying time of conventional ones. This new nail enamel is also designed to dry normally in air with the same speed as conventional ones do. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10792 [article]

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Science and technology of emulsions - From nanoemulsions to multiple emulsions / Tharwat F. Tadros in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000) . - p. 31-38 Titre : Science and technology of emulsions - From nanoemulsions to multiple emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tharwat F. Tadros, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 31-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This overview deals with the important aspects of emulsion science and technology. It starts with a section on the basic principles of emulsion formation and stability. The thermodynamics of emulsion formation and breakdown are briefly described to illustrate the kinetic stability of emulsions which requires the presence of an energy barrier (repulsive energy) to reduce flocculation and coalescence. The basic stabilization mechanisms that can be applied to produce such repulsion are briefly described. This is followed by a section o the main breakdown processes of emulsions, namely creaming and sedimentation, flocculation, Ostwald ripening, coalescence and phase inversion. The various methods that can be applied to control such processes are briefly described. The second section deals with the subject of nanoemulsions (with size range in the region of 100-200 nm) which attracted considerable attention in recent years for application in personal and health care. The problem of formation of small droplets is described in terms of the high Laplace pressure produced on deformation of small drops. This requires the application of high energy (e.g by application of high pressure homogenisers) and high surfactant concentration. The high stability of nanoemulsions stems from their small size which reduces an creaming or sedimentation as well as the lack of flocculation and/or coalescence. The latter is prevented as a result of the lack of fluctuation of the interface and the high steric repulsion between the droplets. However, nanoemulsions suffer from the problem of Ostwald ripening that arises from the difference in solubility between small and large droplets. The higher the oil solubility the the higher the rate of Ostwald ripening. The procedures that may be applied to reduce Ostwald ripening are briefly described. One of these methods is to incorporate a second highly insoluble oil component. Alternatively, one may incorporate a polymeric surfactant that is strongly adsorbed at the 0/W interface and which does not desorb during the process of ripening. Such polymeric surfactant should be highly insoluble in the continuous phase. The last section of this overview deals with multiple emulsions which offer some advantages for application in personal care. The main criteria for production of stable W/0/W multiple emulsions are briefly described. These are: two polymeric surfactants with low and high HLB numbers and optimum osmotic balance between the internal water droplets and the external continuous phase. Examples of such polymeric surfactants are given. This is followed by a brief description of the method of preparation of multiple emulsions (a two or one-stage process could be applied). Finally a description of the multiple emulsion drop is given and a brief account of the use of gelling agents to reduce creaming or sedimentation. The methods that can be applied to follow the stability of multiple emulsion are briefly described. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10798 [article]

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Alpha-glucosylrutin (AGR) - An innovative antioxidant in skin protection / F. Stäb in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000) . - p. 39-43 Titre : Alpha-glucosylrutin (AGR) - An innovative antioxidant in skin protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : F. Stäb, Auteur ; R. Wolber, Auteur ; C. Mundt, Auteur ; T. Blatt, Auteur ; K. Will, Auteur ; R. Keyhani, Auteur ; F. Rippke, Auteur ; H. Max, Auteur ; U. Schönrock, Auteur ; H. Wenck, Auteur ; I. Moll, Auteur ; E. Hölzle, Auteur ; K. P. Wittern, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 39-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For strategies of active skin protection against UV-light and reactive oxygen species (ROS), the topical application of antioxidants becomes more and more prominent (5,11). However, only some of the in vitro effective antioxidants, appear to be functional in vivo too (12). In our studies we compared physiological activities of diverse known antioxidants (e. g. Vit. E, C) versus the highly water soluble flavonoid alpha glucosylrutin (AGR). The studies were conducted in vivo on human skin and in vitro using primary cells from biopsies of human skin. In vitro results: 1) AGR can bolster and protect the intracellular thiol level and the mitochondrial membrane potential of primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts against depletion by oxidative stress. 2) AGR deminishes the oxidative stress-induced decline in the rate of DNA-synthesis, -protection and -repair. 3) AGR reduces the level of tyrosine phosphorylation and ERK1/2 activation in primary skin cells challenged by oxidative stressors (H2O2, UVA). 4) AGR protects primary human skin cells against both, UV-induced reduction in DNA- and hyaluronan- synthesis as well as against UV-induced intracellular hydroperoxide formation. In vivo results: 1) Our studies on normal human skin using UVA-induced ultraweak photon emission measurements (UPE) confirm the antioxidative potential of topical AGR in vivo. 2) After UVA-irradiation in vivo, the phosphorylation of intracellular tyrosine residues and the hydroperoxide levels are significantly enhanced in keratinocytes isolated from donors suffering from polymorphic light eruption (PLE) compared with keratinocytes from healthy donors, but can be reduced even in PLE-skin cells by topical pretreatment with AGR-preparations. 3) Comparative in vivo studies on equimolar ratios of AGR versus Parsol 1789 using reflexion spectrometry give evidence that topical AGR acts predominantly as an antioxidant and not as an UV-filter. 4) Several clinical trials and home in use tests on PLE prophylaxis and UVA-protection of healthy skin showed a significant improvement of the PLE and the UVA-erythema scores at skin sites pretreated with AGR compared with untreated or placebo treated skin sites. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10799 [article]

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The role of pro-SCCE and SCCE in desquamation / A. Watkinson in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000) . - p. 45-49 Titre : The role of pro-SCCE and SCCE in desquamation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Watkinson, Auteur ; Colin Smith, Auteur ; Philip Coan, Auteur ; Oliver Wiedow, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 45-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In summary, we have investigated the processing of pro-SCCE to the active desquamatory protease SCCE within the stratum corneum. A significant amount of pro-SCCE, along with the active SCCE enzyme was detected throughout the stratum corneum indicating that processing occurs within the stratum corneum rather than within the lamellar bodies of the granular layer keratinocytes. Immuno-electron microscopy revealed pro-SCCE exclusively localized to the intercellular space whereas the processed SCCE was associated more with the corneodesmosomal plaque. This raises the possibility that pro-SCCE diffuses from the intercellular space into the main body of the corneodesmosome during which it is activated to initiate hydrolysis and promote desquamation. A link between SCCE levels and aberrant desquamation was shown with reduced levels of enzyme being present in the peripheral stratum corneum in surfactant-induced xerosis. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10800 [article]

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Photoaging, photodermatoses and photocarcinogenesis : recent advances of ultraviolet-A radiation on human skin / Jean Krutmann in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 3, N° 4 (10-11-12/2000) . - p. 51-53 Titre : Photoaging, photodermatoses and photocarcinogenesis : recent advances of ultraviolet-A radiation on human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean Krutmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2000 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10802 [article]

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