Clean beauty natural deodorant formulations / Aleksandra Zmiric in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022) . - p. 50-54 Titre : Clean beauty natural deodorant formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aleksandra Zmiric, Auteur ; Tom Fricke, Auteur ; Johannpeter Wiebke, Auteur ; Ute Back, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 50-54 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bactéries Caprylyl glycéryl éther Déodorants Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The author explains how the combination of Velsan CGE and CareMag D can satisfy the most important requirements of actual consumers oriented to Clean Beauty deodorants without compromising the performance and skin homeostasis. During the past few decades, there has been an increased interest in the essential role of commensal skin bacteria in human body odour formation.1 Sweating is the body’s natural way of cooling down. Sweating is not problematic but in certain conditions sweat has a stronger odour than usual. Human skin has two major types of sweat glands, the apocrine and the eccrine glands. Eccrine glands are often referred to as the small gland variety but are by far the most ubiquitous type of sweat gland. Most of the variability in regional and whole-body sweating rate within and between individuals is due to differences in sweat secretion rate per gland, rather than the total number of active sweat glands.  Eccrine sweat glands primarily respond to thermal stimuli; particularly increased body core temperature, and eccrine sweat is mostly composed of water and salt. Apocrine glands differ from eccrine glands in that they are larger and open into hair follicles instead of onto the skin surface (Figure 1). Apocrine glands produce viscous, lipid-rich sweat, which is comprised of proteins, sugars and ammonia. Some human sweat glands cannot be classified as either apocrine or eccrine, having characteristics of both; such glands are termed apoeccrine. They are larger than eccrine glands, but smaller than apocrine glands. Their secretory portion has a narrow portion similar to secretory coils in eccrine glands as well as a wide section reminiscent of apocrine glands. Note de contenu : - Malodour formation on human axillary - Approaches to body odour control - Synergy between magnesium minerals and Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether - Magnesium mineral - Formula proposal for various deodorant format - Natural deodorant O/W emulsion roll-on - Natural deodorant W/O creams - Natural deodorant stick - Naturally-derived deodorant soap - Fig. 1 : Comparison of the apocrine,eccrine and sebaceous glands in the axilla - Fig. 2 : Bacteria involved in body odour formation and odourous substances - Fig. 3 : Biotransformation of sweat and sebum - Fig. 4 : Structure of Caprylyl glyceryl ether - Table 1 : Mic values of Caprylyl ether and ethylhexylglyceerin on bacteria, including body odour related bacteria strain - Formulation 1 : Natural deodorant O/W emulsion roll-on - Formulation 2 : Natural deodorant W/O creams En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14nI_FOwGOyMNm03603tk-UaSibEtD1mx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38363 [article]

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Natural oil metathesis unveils high-performance weightless cosmetic emollients / Aleksandra Zmiric in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 26-30 Titre : Natural oil metathesis unveils high-performance weightless cosmetic emollients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Aleksandra Zmiric, Auteur ; Sergio Manzano, Auteur ; Luciana Rodrigues, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-30 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcanes Biomatériaux Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie écologique Emollients Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Métathèse (chimie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A cosmetic product wins when it succeeds in awakening the sensory memory of someone who uses it by creating a unique texture, intriguing color or unforgettable fragrance. This sensory experience is important to modern consumers who are increasingly asking for feathery, second-skin like textures. This particularly applies to those who follow the so called "layering" regimen, a popular skincare trend originating in Asia in which different products are applied on the skin, one above another, in specific order. Commonly cosmetic products are produced using volatile silicones, fossil-based alkanes and esters but there is growing concern over their accumulation in the environment and the petrochemical sourcing of these materials, raising sustainability and safety questions. This has led to products created with bio-based, sustainable and safe materials. A unique green chemistry process, called metathesis, has paved the road to bio-based alkanes, enabling the production of feathery emollients, that have high skin compatibility, are synergistic with all other cosmetic ingredients and are high performing in skin and hair care applications. Bio-based alkanes are also characterized by high purity and ready biodegradability. This article explores all the benefits of bio-based alkanes in cosmetic formulations for numerous applications including skincare, sun care, make-up, deodorants and demanding hair care. Note de contenu : - Green megatrend - Metathesis technology - Bio-based dodecane is a perfectly-matched alternative to D5 (cyclopentasiloxane) - The behaviour of bio-based dodecane in skin care - The behaviour of bio-based dodecane in hair care - Bio-based tridecane (and) pentadecane as valid alternatives to petrochemical isoalkanes - Behaviour of bio-based renewable tridecane (and) pentadecane in skin care - Behaviour of bio-based renewable tridecane (and) pentadecane in hair care - Fig. 1 : Sensory profile of bio-based dodecane compared to cyclopentasiloxane in emulsion at 10% - Fig. 2 : Wet combing force in shampoo - Fig. 3 : Sensory profile of bio-based tridecane (and) pentadecane compared to isohexadecane in emulsion at 10% - Fig. 4 : Wet combing in conditioner after one wash - Fig. 5 : Wet combing in conditioner after three washes - long lasting effect - Fig. 6 : Wet combing in leave-in formulation - Fig. 7 : Dry combing in leave in formulation - Table 1 : Formulation 1 : Natural deodorant stick with evanescent silicone-like skin feel - Table 2 : Natural double ends liquid crystals - silicone free - Table 3 : Formulation 3 : Natural feathery feel sun care oil En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t7hGRBIxW1fSqDjyERcX0_vmSqOHVkRX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32959 [article]

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