Anti-pollution effect : a complex claim objectivation / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 4 (04/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 4 (04/2021) . - p. 65-67 Titre : Anti-pollution effect : a complex claim objectivation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 65-67 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution Cosmétiques -- Tests Objectivation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polluants atmosphériques Pollution -- Effets physiologiques Tests cutanés Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Since the spring of 2020, the global health crisis related to COVID-19 has placed the pollution risks of megacities as a secondary concern. Should viruses be considered as an integrted part of pollutants ? They belong to the large family of microtiota such as micro-organisms, bacteria, microbiota such as micro-orgnaisms, bacteria, viruses, fungi, yeast. Hand washing with soap or hydro alcoholic gel, an essential barrier to virus contagion, has become a way of life around the world. The bactericidal efficacy of cosmetic hygiene products is evaluated in vitro by following the recommendations of bactericidal tests by distinguishing the reduction in viability of Escherichia coli. As for the antiviral activity of a hygiene product, its objectivation seems to be pharmaceuticals. For the face, the wearing of masks, sometimes amounting to many hours daily, becomes a new parameter to be taken into consideration is assessing the tolerance and effectiveness of cosmetic products. The resulting change in the skin ecosystem is significant and can be akin to close pollution, due to the promoted development of bacteria, friction of tissue, increased CO2 as well as temperature and sebaceous secretion. For hands, too much use of hydro-alcoholic gels can also cause skin stress. These leave-on hygiene products promote hand dehydraton, which is often put to the test during the winter. Clinical trials can be conducted under normal conditions of use to assess the consequences of these new uses through : - Use test and self-assessment - Tolerance tests and expert score evaluation - Sensory analysis tests with trained or naïve panels - Biometrological tests to measure the different parameters of skin physiology and in particular the evaluation of the skin barrier function and TEWL, colour, sebum level, hydration, imperfections... These are the immediate restorative effects that will be studied and the protective effects over a day or a few days of use. The protocols should be adapted to consumers of the skin care product, age lifestyle, skin type... Pollution has been a major environmental risk to public health in major megacities around the planet for many years. A lot of human activities become a stress factor for nature and human living conditions which lead to various problems such as : respiratory troubles, DNA changes, premature ageing of the skin, among others. The pollution included in the "Exposome concept" has various origins : agriculture, energy production, natural phenomena (volcano eruptions, road transport, fuel combustion, methan synthesis... and the list is so long !) Note de contenu : - The classic pollutants - What are the consequences of the pollution on the skin physiology ? - How to classify these harmful impacts i the short and long term ? - Skin care : 3 steps to combat pollution - How to assess clinically the performance of anti-pollution cosmetics and actives ? - What future for anti-pollution testing ? - Table 1 : Testing list for anti-pollution En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FZ8IM1CA69SDwAuaaYAVsmc7-HQpr93E/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35529 [article]

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Clinically supporting 'antiage' and 'proage' claims / Anne Charpentier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 67-69 Titre : Clinically supporting 'antiage' and 'proage' claims Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 67-69 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Dermo-cosmétologie Exposome L'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à-dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome. Ingrédients cosmétiques Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is important in the first instance to understand that the focus of this article is on what we classify as 'true', 'authentic' or 'unadulterated' butters in the personal care market. Such a butter may simply be defined as "the fat obtained from the fruit, nut or seed from a specific botanical source". Further to this, it is recognised that a butter will be of a waxy solid or semisolid state at a temperature range of 20°C - 30°C. While butters are significant to the food industry, cocoa and shea being two key raw materials for confectionary, we can equally identify with both as having major importance within the personal care market. That said, butter demand continues to grow but more-so outside of these two historic core materials. What were historically recognised as the base ingredient, or an important component, in many personal care products on which a formulation was focused, butters in the personal care evolution have taken an exotic route through authenticity. Listing Cocoa, Mango or Shea, for example, on the product portfolio, when presented to formulators, now extends to such product names as Cupuaçu, Murumuru and Ucuuba. Multi-functional as they are, the everdeveloping world and increasingly consumer-led demand means formulators are keen to explore the growing number of commercially available butters now present in the market for a variety of skin, lip and hair care applications. Note de contenu : - The exposome process beyond the ageing mechanisms - The various ways to objectivate this claim - From trends to high-tech - The bright future of skin science - Table 1 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation terms - Table 2 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation. Clinical assessment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14agJpXJE4bAKDXxiFWX1xtNOYzJgJ-ZC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34285 [article]

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How testing innovation is meeting beauty trends / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 6 (06/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 6 (06/2022) . - p. 25-28 Titre : How testing innovation is meeting beauty trends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 25-28 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Tests Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For many years now, every cosmetic product launched on markets around the world has been validated for its safety and efficacy in accordance with the cosmetic regulations of each country. Product performance is changing along with consumer expectations, shopping habits, beauty routines and lifestyles. For the past two years, the health crisis has had an impact on the use of hand hygiene products specifically and on care and make-up products with new products resistant to the conditions of wearing a mask and the increase on the surface of the skin of temperature, humidity, CO2 and friction. In addition, after the decrease in human activities related to confinement, large cities are regaining significant levels of pollution that have a significant impact on the condition of the skin. In recent months, here is what we have been able to note from the observatory of tests that Skinobs represents and its consultations around the world. Three main trends stand out from the overall evolution of testing: - The development of tests related to the notions of wellbeing and clean beauty. - The increase in demand for proof of product performance. - The development of in vitro assays. Note de contenu : - How wellbeing and clean beauty influence testing - Product sustainability, a major consideration - Sophistication of testing methods - The new trend for nomadic tests - Microbiota evaluation confirms its development - In vitro and ex vivo assays development - A limitless source of scientific communication En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XfGvJHJCrdgKib3E3bg0GIhllz0EwL8m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37978 [article]

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How to prove pro-ageing claims in vivo / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022) . - p. 57-60 Titre : How to prove pro-ageing claims in vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 57-60 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Dermo-cosmétologie Etudes cliniques Evaluation Exposome L'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à-dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome. Justification de l'allégation Mesure Peau -- Rides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Claims of personal care evolve following trends and various innovations in the field of the active ingredient development, the finished product formulation and the way both are evaluated, demonstrating their performance. Since the mid-2010s, the cosmetics industry has been gradually leaving the era of anti-ageing behind. Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a 'well ageing', 'slow ageing' or 'pro-ageing' approach. The philosophy of the 'pro-ageing' movement has sought to remove all 'anti' daims because, according to this concept, women over 50 are not interested in locking younger; they want to look healthy and be honest about their age. Some brands have used the idea of improving the appearance of skin quality and restoring skin comfort. A new vocabulary of renewal, regeneration, plumpness, and Slow' now dominates the language of the beauty industry. Increasingly inclusive beauty rituals give the opportunity for a pause, counterbalancing stressful, tiring and anxious lifestyles and reducing the deleterious effects of a life that attacks the skin through internat mechanisms or a harmful environment. Eliminate toxins, oxygenate the body, take care of oneself to maintain the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and a good mood. Beauty then becomes more integrative, it will universalise well-being, the silhouette, sleep quality and lifestyle, resulting in a different look. Consumers are going to take action to preserve their tonicity, elegance and silhouette. In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure and sensoriality. It is all about supporting the ageing process rather than fighting the signs of ageing, with skincare products supporting a 'pro-longevity' and enhancing. Note de contenu : - Substantiating anti-ageing claims - Evaluation of anti-ageing perceptions - Exposome process beyong ageing mechanisms - Biometrological studies - Focus on wrinkle objectivation - Challenges of wrinkle evaluation - Bright future of skin science - Table 1 & 2 : Anti-ageing claim substantiation-clinical assessment En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RE9Q_2jKxTTB-G4loDvb1ddJqZ4tTf8g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37411 [article]

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Skin microbiota and claims substantiation / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 75-77 Titre : Skin microbiota and claims substantiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 75-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Microbiote Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skinobs offer advice on how to evaluate cosmetic activity on the microbiome and also collate a range of expert industry views on the topic. The evaluation of the effect of dermocosmetics or active products on the skin microbiota is evolving into more and more complex models. And yet, these never reach the sophistication of the ecosystem of the bacterial biofilm of the skin. In addition, it is now known that the skin microbiome is subject to intra-individual variations depending on the body areas and inter-individual according to genetic, intrinsic, and environmental factors. Note de contenu : - A complex ecosystem deeply linked to the skin homeostasis - Microbiota claims : the era of a new revolution for cosmetics ? - How to evaluate cosmetics activity on the skin microbiota ? - Combining expert's views on clinical evaluation perspectives - In vitro expert's view of the proof-of-concept - The future of skin microbiota evaluation Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36604 [article]

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Soothing effect dedicated to sensitive skin / Anne Charpentier in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)  

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Testing standards for evaluating sun care / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 9 (10/2022)  

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