[article]
| Titre : |
Evaluation of the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid : From biological evaluation to consumer home use trial |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Justine Blanc Catala, Auteur ; Catherine Zanchetta, Auteur ; Candice François, Auteur ; Emilie Chapuis, Auteur ; Nathalie Joset, Auteur ; Marie Meunier, Auteur ; Florian Loeser, Auteur ; Shan Godbille, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur ; Romain Reynaud, Auteur ; Fabrice Lefevre, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2024 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 795-805 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Analyse sensorielle
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Evaluation
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Statistique
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Active ingredients are often assessed based on physiological measurements, but innovative technologies to measure skin sensations can provide a holistic volunteer assessment of the use of an ingredient. In this paper, the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid (HA) were evaluated alongside clinical biometrics and innovative cognitive measurements to determine how biological benefits correlated with volunteers' feelings and perceptions of hydration. The results demonstrated that cationic HA provides hydrating benefits at the clinical level due to its film-forming properties. Through the use of innovative behavioural measurement tools, we were able to show that these outcomes are perceived by naïve consumers in real-life conditions. In addition, the benefits of cationic HA reported by users were in accordance with the mental representation they had related to the use of HA, thus the product achieved complete sensorial embodiment. We can conclude that the combination of clinical evaluations and home use trials consolidates product assessment when seeking to measure consumer satisfaction with proven biological benefits. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS :
- Cationic HA
- INCI formulations for clinical and home use studies
- Volunteer panel involved in product evaluation based on physiological skin measurements (clinical evaluation)
- Clinical evaluation protocol for product evaluation based on physiological skin measurements
- Biometric measurements for clinical evaluation
- Ex vivo protocol to observe skin adhesion of cationic HA
- Statistical analyses for clinical evaluation and ex vivo testing
- Volunteer panel involved in product evaluation based on cognitive methods (home use trial)
- Protocol for product evaluation based on cognitive methods (home use trial)
- Cognitive measurements for home use trial
- Net promoter score (NPS) calculation
- Statistical analysis for cognitive measurements (home use trial)
- RESULTS :
- Cationic hyaluronic acid provides clinical hydrating benefits
- Biometric hydration benefits are due to the strong film-forming properties of cationic HA
- "Associated benefits" is the first criterion for selection of a shower gel
- Cationic HA at 0.03% or 0.1% increases perceived skin softness, comfort and hydration
- Hydration is the first perceived benefit after application of both 0.03% and 0.1% cationic HA
- Physiological and perceived benefits of cationic HA application enhance the NPS score
- Product description is consistent with product experience |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12965 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nZIqjVMqyxaqe7EcIqh79vCSfGwHQ4ta/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41572 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 5 (10/2024) . - p. 795-805
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Evaluation of the hydrating benefits of a cationic hyaluronic acid : From biological evaluation to consumer home use trial in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 5 (10/2024)
