| Titre : |
Photoaging's portrait : The road map towards its photoprotection |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2023 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 33-44 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Dermo-cosmétologie
Etudes cliniques
Intelligence artificielle
Photoprotection
Photovieillissement (dermatologie)
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- Objective : To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection.
- Materials and Methods : Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men).
- Results : In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-Ã -vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects.
The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities.
- Conclusion : Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Methodologies - Subjects - Clustering procedure for sun-phobic and non-sun-phobic groups - Qualify and quantify impact of photoprotective regimen
- RESULTS : Portraying photoaging - Towards photoprotection
- Table 1 : Questionnaire used to evaluate the history of sun-exposures (combined or not to a photoprotection habit) of women and men enrolled in the studies
- Table 2 : Summary of some studies aiming at best describing the facial Photoaging status (2487 Men and Women)
- Table 3 : Summary of the works dedicated to the effects brought by a topical photoprotective regimen (671 Men and Women) |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12903 |
| En ligne : |
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12903 |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40249 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 33-44
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Photoaging's portrait : The road map towards its photoprotection in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)
