Alizarin old and new : Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye / Khai Ly Do in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 5-29 Titre : Alizarin old and new : Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Khai Ly Do, Auteur ; Asim Mushtaq, Auteur ; Feng Zhao, Auteur ; Miao Su, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 5-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alizarine L'alizarine est un colorant rouge d'origine végétale, extrait de la racine de la garance des teinturiers (Rubia tinctorum L.), une plante vivace de la famille des Rubiacées, autrefois largement cultivée pour la teinture qu'elle fournissait. Antimicrobiens Antioxydants Antiquités (objets anciens) -- Analyse Colorants végétaux Extraction (chimie) Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Répulsifs (chimie) Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The current study provides the first review of alizarin, a natural dye, in terms of its historical aspects and its potential for functional applications in textiles. The review begins with a brief overview of natural alizarin and its occurrence in Rubiaceae family plants, followed by a discussion of alizarin acquisition from its botanical sources through conventional and advanced extraction methods. A special emphasis of this study is on the identification of natural alizarin colourants in archaeological and cultural textiles by using analytical methods based on reflectance, Raman spectroscopy, mass spectrometry and chromatographic profiles. In addition, the functional properties of natural alizarin, including its antimicrobial activity, anti-oxidant activity, insect repellence and ultraviolet protection, are analysed. This paper summarises the methods for obtaining alizarin for coloration, as well as advanced techniques for detecting alizarin in historical textiles, and potential applications of natural alizarin as a functional textile dye. Note de contenu : - HISTORY AND BOTANICAL PROVENANCE OF ALIZARIN - EXTRACTION METHODS OF ALIZARIN FROM RUBIACEAE FAMILY PLANTS : Conventional extraction methods - Advanced extraction methods - IDENTIFICATION OF ALIZARIN IN HISTORICAL TEXTILES : Reflectance-based methods - Direct analysis in real time - Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy - High-performance liquid chromatography - POTENTIAL APPLICATIONS OF ALIZARIN FOR FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES : Antimicrobial activity - Anti-oxidant activity - Insect-repellent activity - UV-protective activity - Table 1 : Proposed list of plants containing alizarin as a colouring compound - Table 2 : A summary of various methods for alizarin extraction from Rubiaceae family plants - Table 3 : Summary of alizarin identification in historical and archaeological textiles DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12711 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fLCZq7maaS7iQcRwPrJqlYbquisBc5TI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40387 [article]

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Application issue of anthraquinonoid vat dyes on inherently flame-resistant fabrics / Martinia Glogar in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 2 (04/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 2 (04/2023) . - p. 190-199 Titre : Application issue of anthraquinonoid vat dyes on inherently flame-resistant fabrics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martinia Glogar, Auteur ; Tanja Pusic, Auteur ; Veronika Lovreskov, Auteur ; Tea Kaurin, Auteur ; Ana Sutlovic, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 190-199 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anthraquinone Fibre aramide Ignifugeants Composé chimique utilisé pour réduire l'inflammabilité. Il peut être incorporé au produit durant sa fabrication ou appliqué ultérieurement à sa surface. Indice limite d'oxygène L'indice limite d'oxygène (ILO), ou indice d'oxygène (limite) (IO(L)) ou (L)OI (limiting) oxygen index en anglais), est une grandeur et un essai de laboratoire à petite échelle permettant de caractériser la combustibilité (inflammabilité) d'un matériau combustible, notamment une matière plastique (ou un polymère). Ce critère donne une indication relative de la combustibilité dans des conditions d'essai spécifiées, définies par des normes. Il existe différentes normes selon les domaines d'application1 et les pays : ISO 4589, ASTM D2863, UL 94, etc. Il ne faut pas confondre cette propriété avec la concentration limite en oxygène qui donne la concentration minimale en oxygène dans un mélange avec un combustible permettant l'inflammation en présence d'une source d'ignition. Solidité de la couleur Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Textiles et tissus -- Propriétés tactiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : The vat dyeing process of specific fabrics with protective, inherently fire retardant properties that have a high content of aramid fibres in their composition, is presented. The research was performed on fabric samples that differ in raw material composition and aramid content. The samples were dyed in raw form (group 1) as well as after pretreatment with alkaline scouring (group 2). Measured limiting oxygen index (LOI) values showed that the selected fabrics meet the properties of inherently fire retardant fabrics. Dyeing was performed with Indanthren® Olive Green HB (manufactured by DyStar) vat dye, in exhaustion process, with a bath ratio of 1:30. The dye concentration was 3%, and sodium-hydrosulphite (Na2S2O4) was used as a reducing agent. The colouristic analyses were performed based on spectrophotometric measurement and results interpretation according to CIELab system. The evaluation of primary tactile properties was performed which show an increase of smoothness and softness after scouring and dyeing. Also, wash fastness as well as light fastness tests have shown satisfactory fastness properties. Note de contenu : - Limiting oxygen index (LOI) - Dyeing - Colour fastness and tactile properties testing - Spectrophotometric measurement - Microscopic imaging - Table 1 : Composition of analysed fabrics - Table 2 : Constructional and mechanical characteristics of fabrics - Table 3 : Recipe and conditions of alkaline scouring - Table 4 : Limiting oxygen index (LOI) of fabrics - Table 5 : Primary tactile properties of dyed fabrics - Table 6 : Colour strength (K/S) values of dyed samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12661 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12661 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39531 [article]

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Cigarette smoke uptake by different woven fabrics : Analysis of mechanical and colour properties / Mahmut Kayar in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 4 (08/2024)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 140, N° 4 (08/2024) . - p. 585-597 Titre : Cigarette smoke uptake by different woven fabrics : Analysis of mechanical and colour properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mahmut Kayar, Auteur ; Yalcin Boztoprak, Auteur ; Belma Gjergjizi Nallbani, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 585-597 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Colorimétrie Coton Le coton est une fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers "véritables"(Gossypium sp.), un arbuste de la famille des Malvacées. Cette fibre est généralement transformée en fil qui est tissé pour fabriquer des tissus. Le coton est la plus importante des fibres naturelles produites dans le monde. Depuis le XIXe siècle, il constitue, grâce aux progrès de l'industrialisation et de l'agronomie, la première fibre textile du monde (près de la moitié de la consommation mondiale de fibres textiles). Essais de résilience Fumée de cigarette Polyamides Un polyamide est un polymère contenant des fonctions amides -C(=O)-NH- résultant d'une réaction de polycondensation entre les fonctions acide carboxylique et amine. Selon la composition de leur chaîne squelettique, les polyamides sont classés en aliphatiques, semi-aromatiques et aromatiques. Selon le type d'unités répétitives, les polyamides peuvent être des homopolymères ou des copolymères. Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Textiles et tissus -- Propriétés mécaniques Tissés Viscose Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Although the impact of smoking tobacco on human health is well understood, less is known about the effects of tobacco smoke on cotton, viscose and polyamide fabrics. In this study, tobacco smoke was applied to fabric samples to investigate the effects of tobacco smoke on their mechanical and colour properties. For this purpose, tobacco smoke was pumped into a mechanism consisting of a glass box, in which cotton, viscose and polyamide fabrics were placed in a suspended position. The fabric samples were treated with tobacco smoke for 1 or 2 months. The samples were evaluated in terms of tensile and tear strength, elongation at break, as well as pilling and abrasion resistance values. A colour measurement test was used to investigate the withering effect of tobacco smoke, and Fourier Transfer–Infrared analysis was performed to examine the chemical changes. The tensile strength values in the warp direction were 419.34, 404.62 and 421.78 N without treatment and after 1 and 2 months of tobacco smoke treatment, respectively, for the cotton woven fabric. Furthermore, for woven cotton fabric, the L* value decreased from 93.8 to 78.7 after being treated with tobacco smoke for 2 months. As a result of this study, it was determined that tobacco smoke has no effect on the tensile strength properties of fabrics, causes changes to pilling and abrasion resistance values, and adversely affects the colour properties of fabrics. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Treating fabrics with cigarette smoke - Mechanical tests - Colour measurement - FTIR analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Mechanical properties - Colour properties - FTIR spectroscopy DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12723 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYOdc-ZyebrlHfeVt0plX5_47W_-gzHw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=41319 [article]

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Creating a high-quality wool-oriented Turkish merino herd and investigation of mechanical and dyeability properties of fabrics produced from Turkish merino in comparison with Australian merino / Riza Atav in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 139, N° 6 (12/2023)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 139, N° 6 (12/2023) . - p. 689-702 Titre : Creating a high-quality wool-oriented Turkish merino herd and investigation of mechanical and dyeability properties of fabrics produced from Turkish merino in comparison with Australian merino Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Riza Atav, Auteur ; Bürhan Bugdayci, Auteur ; Ayse Sen, Auteur ; Ugur Ergünay, Auteur ; Pelin Gürkan Ünal, Auteur ; Emel Özkan Ünal, Auteur ; Gökmen Karagöz, Auteur ; Raziye Isik, Auteur ; M. Ihsan Soysal, Auteur ; Muhittin Özder, Auteur ; Sezen Arat, Auteur ; Büsra Eroğlu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 689-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Boulochage Colorimétrie Feutrage Fibres textiles -- Propriétés mécaniques Laine de mouton Mérinos Le mérinos est une race ovine originaire d'Espagne élevée principalement pour sa laine. - Production lainière : La race des mérinos est championne du monde de la production lainière[réf. souhaitée]. La laine de mérinos est surtout recherchée pour sa finesse (exprimée en microns) et sa blancheur, laquelle provient d'un fastidieux processus de croisements de moutons à travers les siècles, faisant des moutons mérinos une race dite « pure ». En effet, contrairement à la croyance populaire, la laine n'est pas toujours blanche, mais se matérialise plutôt en une déclinaison de couleurs variant entre le crème, le gris, le beige, le brun et le noir7,8. De nos jours, 90 % de la laine mérinos utilisée par l'industrie de la mode vient d'Australie. - Caractéristiques : La qualité de la laine est appréciée via la finesse (diamètre de la fibre mesurée en micron µm, critère majoritaire) et la longueur mesurée en millimètre (de 65 à 100 mm). La laine est catégorisée en : épaisse (23–24.5 µm), médium (19.6–22.9 µm), fine (18.6–19.5 µm), superfine (15–18.5 µm) et ultrafine (11.5–15 µm). Cette finesse (les autres laines de mouton ont un diamètre de fibre moyen de 37 µm) fait que les tenues en laine mérinos sont ultra légères, sèchent très vite, isolent mieux, ne grattent pas et sont infroissables. (Wikipedia) Photostabilité Résistance à l'abrasion Résistance à la traction Statistique Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Textiles et tissus -- Lavage Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Today, the need for quality wool suitable for worsted fabric production in the world is mainly met by Australian merino wool. In Turkey, which has a significant sheep population, in addition to domestic breeds, approximately 10% of the total sheep population (around four million head) is composed of merino cross breeds. However, the fleece quality is far from meeting Australian merino wool standards. Therefore, the aim of this study is to ensure a merino herd with high-quality wool in Turkey. For this aim, by carrying out field studies in the Thrace region of Turkey where Turkish Merino sheep are widely bred, sheep with fleece that can meet the demands of the worsted industry were determined. As a result of field studies in which thousands of sheep were examined, it was determined that 43 female and 10 male sheep had fleece that would meet these standards. Then the breeders of the sheep, which had quality fleece, were persuaded and these sheep were purchased, and “Turkey's wool-oriented Turkish (Karacabey) Merino Herd” consisting of 30 sheep and three rams was formed in the farm of Tekirdağ Namık Kemal University. In the second part of this study, a 100% wool fabric produced by using Australian merino was taken as a reference and it was aimed to produce the same fabric from Turkish merino wool. For this aim, the wool-oriented Turkish Merino herd, which was bred at the university farm for 1 year, was shorn in May 2022. Then, Turkish and Australian merino wools were first converted into worsted yarn and then into woven fabric. The results of mechanical (tensile strength, pilling, abrasion resistance, felting shrinkage, Hofmann dimensional change, bending stiffness) and dyeability (dye-uptake, CIE L*a*b* and colour yield (K/S) values; washing, rubbing and light fastness values) properties of fabrics produced from Turkish and Australian merino wool is presented. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Investigation of fibre properties - Investigation of fabric properties - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Results related to fibre properties - Results related to fabric properties - Table 1 : Age and sex distribution of sheep from which wool samples were taken - Table 2 : Factors and levels used in the statistical evaluation of fibre fineness - Table 3 : Test results of fabrics made from Turkish merino and Australian merino wool - Table 4 : Colour measurement results of fabrics produced from Turkish merino and Australian merino wool - Table 5 : Washing, rubbing and light fastness test results of dyed fabrics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12680 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12680 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40120 [article]

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A fast and robust analytical method based on QuEChERS technique using UPLC- PDS for quantification of carcinogenic arylamines in consumer goods inclusive of leather / S. Suresh in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXVIII, N° 4 (04/2023)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXVIII, N° 4 (04/2023) . - p. 139-149 Titre : A fast and robust analytical method based on QuEChERS technique using UPLC- PDS for quantification of carcinogenic arylamines in consumer goods inclusive of leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Suresh, Auteur ; N. Priya, Auteur ; R. Kunjitham, Auteur ; Kalarical Janardhanan Sreeram, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 139-149 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Analyse quantitative (chimie) Arylamines Cancérogènes Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Colorants -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Extraction (chimie) Textiles et tissus -- Analyse Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Arylamines present in leather and textile products are reduced in vivo by cleavage of azo groups to form highly mutagenic and carcinogenic products that pose consumer’s health risk. The major textile and leather products that are offered to consumers need to be safe. In order to ensure safety as per the global regulations, the allowed limit of carcinogenic amines in textile and leather products cannot be more than 20 mg/kg. There are several methods that have been used for extracting the azo dyes and analyzing them in textile and leather products. Most of these methods are polluting from high solvent usage, time consuming, laborious, and have lower recovery rates. In the present study QuEChERS method, (dispersive solid phase extraction-dSPE) method was utilized for extraction of carcinogenic arylamines from dyed leather and textile products. The released arylamines are extracted into acetonitrile using QuEChERS salt and analyzed by Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography-Photo Diode Array (UPLC-PDA). The extracted product was further confirmed by Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometer (GC-MS). The method proposed in this study is novel as it eliminates all significant concerns associated with the official ISO-17234-1 &14362-1 test methods, such as use of solvents like tert-butyl methyl ether (MTBE) and the long duration of analysis. The sample preparation time is minimized from 120 min to 20 min. The developed method is easy to adopt with efficient recovery rate of arylamines in comparison to the official ISO method. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Chemicals and reagents - Instrumentation - List of banned arylamines - Preparation of reference standard for analysis - The official procedure, ISO 17234-1 for extractio of arylamines - CHROMATOGRAPHIC CONDITION : UPLC-PDA condition followed for the arylamine separation - GC-MS condition followed for the arylamine confirmation - Samples preparation of the proposed QuEChERs method - RESULTS AND DICUSSION : In-situ reduction - QuEChERS for analysis of arylamines - Effect of H on recovery of arylamines - Optimization of centrifugal speed for extraction and recovery of arylamines - Optimization of centrifugal time for extraction and recovery of arylamines - Validation of the method - Analysis of real samples - Table 1 : The list of specific mass ions (SIM) of arylamines for GCMS analysis - Table 2 : Method validation data for proposed method - Table 3 : Real sample analysis data for leather, textile and dyes by the proposed method with RSD DOI : https://doi.org/10.34314/jalca.v118i4.7204 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-6p88akO6WMa2iipsyWDEvg1jPu4_YYn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39182 [article]

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Fluorescent whiteness measurement of textiles by multispectral imaging system / Pengpeng Yao in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 140, N° 4 (08/2024)  

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