| Titre : |
Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2023 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 133-154 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Cornéosomes
Couche cornée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Facteur naturel d'hydratation
Filaggrine
Lipides
Matériaux -- Propriétés barrières
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptidases
Produits hydratants
Sécheresse cutanéeUne xérose est un dessèchement de la peau.
Elle peut avoir différentes causes, comme certaines pathologies (dermatite atopique aussi appelé eczéma atopique), des carences, notamment en Vitamine A, ou des facteurs externes, comme les contacts avec des substances irritantes ou le traitement par certains médicaments.
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research. We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation. The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1. Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATURATION PATHWAYS AND GRADIENTS IN THE STRATUM CORNEUM : Water - Corneodesmosome and plasminogen system - Filaggrin and NMF - Barrier lipids
- ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRY SKIN ? : Stratum compactum – Disjunctum ratio model of dry skin - The dry skin cycle
- Table 1 : Comparison of proteins between SC samples from sun-exposed cheek and sun-protected post-auricular (PA) area in Caucasian women |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12832 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gyGbFFX05QTuLAEF3ncihyYctFOG6IOf/view?usp=share [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39165 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 133-154
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Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
