Résumé : |
The art of finishing or decorating leather in one form or another has been practiced for countless centuries. As far back as the records go man has treated his tanned skins and hides with many kinds of materials, first to make them more durable, and later to make them more decorative and attractive.
In the fashion-conscious world today different and unusual effects on leathers are very much in vogue and in demand, and these effects have been created and carried out in the tanneries in many ways. Some of the methods are laborious, costly, and slow, but nevertheless have been practiced extensively because it was necessary to satisfy the demand for leathers finished with these effects. For example, the stained goat look is made hy a wash-off process on embossed kid grain, while the inlay effect is accomplished either by the wash-off or flow-in techniques on embossed grains such as the Crusho Kid print. Antique appearances have been created hy ecrase spraying wrinkled or crunched leathers. The "blotchy aniline" effect is produced hy a special spraying set-up. There is the antique "worn" look ‘vhich is produced by dry-milling, and the brush-off appearance which is made in the shoe f actory. There are many other techniques with innumerable variations used to embellish leathers, but it is beyond the scope of this paper to deal with such procedures in detail. Rather, we are con¬cerned with the "fashion finishing" of leathers hy rapid tannery production methods, yielding uniform reproducible results. |