Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 664-675 Titre : Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; B. Gautier, Auteur ; A.-M. Benize, Auteur ; A. Charbonneau, Auteur ; M. Cassier, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 664-675 Note générale : Bibliogr Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Femmes Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau -- Variations saisonnières Photoprotection Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVES : These were two-fold: (i) to assess the possible changes in some facial signs induced in a 6-month period by the periodical shift from winter to summer in Caucasian women and (ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product. METHODS : The facial signs of two cohorts of French women (N= 40 and 42), of comparable ages were graded between winter to summer. One group was left unprotected whereas the other daily applied a strong photo-protective product for 6 months. Facial signs (structural and pigmentation-related) were graded in blind by a panel of 12 experts from photographs taken under standard conditions. A global and focused analysis of the skin colour or dark spots, when present, was carried out through spectro-radiometry under diffuse and standardized visible light, using the L*, a*, b* referential system. RESULTS : The unprotected group showed significant changes in summer as compared to winter on 10 facial signs (two-third of the studied signs) that presented an increased severity, of variable respective amplitude. Five signs among the 10 were particularly and significantly affected by the seasonal transition, of an amplitude above the precision of the grading scale. Three of these five signs concerned structural elements (wrinkles), the two others being related to vascular disorders (redness). These season-induced alterations appear efficiently reduced in the photo-protected group. The colour of the facial skin then appears more homogeneous, less red, less dull, all criteria being quantified by the L*, a*, b* referential system. The comparison with a previous work carried out on Chinese women, through a similar protocol, shows that the photo-protective product brings, in Caucasian women, a more important effect upon structural and vascular features than upon pigmentation disorders, inversely to the results previously observed in Chinese women. CONCLUSION : The alterations in some facial signs occurring in a 6-month period between winter and summer are confirmed in Caucasian women, mostly related to structural (wrinkles) and vascular elements. Such changes appear alleviated or prevented by daily applications of a strong sun photo-protective product. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Study design - Subjects - Pictures acquisition - Evaluation and grading of facial skin ageing signs. - Facial signs - Assessment of facial skin colour - Statistics - RESULTS : Comparability of groups 1 and 2 - UV index recors in Paris in 2015 - Changes in facial sign induced by a seasonal effect (winter vs. summer) - Changes in facial skin colour (cheeks area) - Contrasts between dark spots and adjacent sites on checks - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12427 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29481 [article]

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