Facial skin mapping : from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 411-424 Titre : Facial skin mapping : from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; J. Gierschendorf, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 411-424 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Evaluation Groupe ethnique Hydratation Peau -- Physiologie Sébum Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non-photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio-instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less-pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo-controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology. Note de contenu : - Part 1 : Observational study : exploratory inter-ethnic 2D approach using capacitance and TEWL measurements - Part 2 : Proof of concept moisturisation study : inter-ethnic 3D approach using capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH measurements - Part 3 : Facial sebum mapping, observational study on Caucasian subjects - Part 4 : Vehicle-controlled moisturisation study : conductance measurements on Chinese subjects DOI : 10.1111/ics12562 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d-E-H2weXqFx3Xyfv-3yr2aWMyXnI8t5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33199 [article]

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The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 637-652 Titre : The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; J.-M. Monneuse, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 637-652 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Barrière cutanée Couche cornée Peau -- Anatomie Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Protéomique La protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données. Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité. Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances. La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine. La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : BACKGROUND : The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE : To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin. METHODS : Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software. RESULTS : Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease–anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase. CONCLUSION : Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study subjects - Sample collection and SC protein evaluation - Protein extraction, digestion and clean up - Nano-liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry - Data analysis and peptide annotation - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Serum diffusion linked markers - Proteases and protease inhibitors - Proteins related to SC cohesion - Proteins related to corneocyte maturation - Other enzymes contributing to NMF generation - Differentiation markers: keratins, annexins - Inflammation markers - Membrane trafficking, microtubule and cytoskeleton markers - Proteasome markers - Antioxidant markers - Heat-shock proteins - Signal transduction markers - SC lipid biochemical markers - Anti-microbial peptides - Lysosomal markers - Intermediary metabolism enzymes - Protein folding markers - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12426 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29479 [article]

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Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 632-636 Titre : Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Dilek Guneri, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 632-636 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Cornéocytes Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Femmes Hydrophobie Nicotinamide Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Age‐related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4‐week placebo‐controlled study. The stratum corneum (SC) undergoes a variety of catabolic and anabolic reactions towards its outer surface layers in preparation for its external assault from the terrestrial environment. These events are essential for the formation of a healthy barrier. Key is the maturation of the corneocyte envelope (CE) (Fig. 1). Morphologically, CE’s appear fragile in the deeper layers of the SC and more rigid in the outer layers, the mechanics of which have been confirmed with several biomechanical approaches. Early methods to assessing the maturity of the CE’s were based upon staining with tetramethylrhodamine isothiocyanate (TRITC) where rigid CEs stain more intensely than fragile ones. Later, their protein content was assessed by involucrin immunochemistry and their lipid content by Nile red staining which was then expressed as a ratio. Using these approaches, improvements in CE maturity of the volar forearm and the legs have been observed with moisturizers containing glycerol and niacinamide. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Model of the corneocyte envelope (CE). An early step in the cornification process is the formation of the intercellular cytoskeleton mainly composed of keratin filaments and filaggrin. Cross-linking of proteins, mainly of loricrin and involucrin form the rigid inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Then, a lipid monolayer, the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), is covalently attached to the CPE. The CLE serves as a scaffold for the lamellar organization of the extracellular lipid matrix. - Fig. 2 : Facial test sites, central forehead (CF), cheek (CH) (3 cm vertically beneath the outer edge of the eye), top nasolabial sulcus (NT), midpoint nasolabial sulcus (NM) - Fig. 3 : Baseline data, differences of CE maturation parameters (size (a), hydrophobicity (b), rigidity (c), RCEM (d)) between young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison young vs. old, * P < 0.05, ns not significant - Fig. 4 : Baseline corrected data of the impact of topically applied niacinamide on CE maturation parameters (hydrophobicity (a), rigidity (b), RCEM (c)) in young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison baseline vs. treatment, * P < 0.05, ns not significant - Table 1 : INCI list of test creams DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12666 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xzLcNcWvc1rQwBPvftiLnXvrVinoYNlz/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35430 [article]

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