Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups / Anthony Vincent Rawlings in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 166-176 Titre : Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Christian Klose, Auteur ; Jean-Marc Monneuse, Auteur ; Beverley Summers, Auteur ; Rainer Voegeli, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 166-176 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Chimie analytique Cornéocytes Dermatologie Lipidomique La lipidomique est l'étude à grande échelle des voies et des réseaux de lipides cellulaires dans les systèmes biologiques. Le mot "lipidome" est utilisé pour décrire le profil lipidique complet dans une cellule, un tissu, un organisme ou un écosystème et est un sous-ensemble du « métabolome » qui comprend également les trois autres grandes classes de molécules biologiques : les protéines/acides aminés, les sucres et les acides nucléiques. La lipidomique est un domaine de recherche relativement récent qui a été porté par les progrès rapides de technologies telles que la spectrométrie de masse (MS), la spectroscopie par résonance magnétique nucléaire (RMN), la spectroscopie de fluorescence, l'interférométrie à double polarisation et les méthodes informatiques, associées à la reconnaissance du rôle des lipides dans de nombreuses maladies métaboliques telles que l'obésité, l' athérosclérose, les accidents vasculaires cérébraux, l'hypertension et le diabète . Ce domaine en pleine expansion complète les énormes progrès de la génomique et de la protéomique, qui constituent la famille de la biologie des systèmes. (Wikipedia) Membrane cellulaire Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Protéomique La protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données. Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité. Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances. La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine. La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa. - Methods : Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms. - Results : No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega-O-acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R-LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R-LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans. - Conclusion : The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega-O-acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega-O-acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO-acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R-LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Study population and methods - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : SC lipidomics and ceramidomics SC proteomics of corneocyte lipid envelope processing enzymes - Table 1 : Fold changes in 12R-LOX, eLOX3, SDR9C7 and TG1 between (A) cheek and postauricular sites for each ethnicity; (B) differences among postauricular site for all ethnicities; and (C) differences among cheek site for all ethnicities. Data are mean ±SEM DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12765 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8wZB_GUOn3-yrhL5846IShbMCu3NRqQ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37720 [article]

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A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 703-718 Titre : A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 703-718 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s Cornéométrie Cosmétiques Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Hydratation Mesure Produits hydratants Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVES : The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches. - METHODS : We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results. - RESULTS : The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin. - CONCLUSIONS : Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered. Note de contenu : - Study population and general approach - Expert grading of facial dryness and roughness (whole face) - Bio-instrumental evaluation - Creation of facial colour maps for skin hydration, Δ% and correlation - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Scales for expert gradings of facial dryness and facial roughness - Table 2 : Mapping layout, description of the 30 predefined facial measurement points - Table 3 : Summary of data and evaluations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12814 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VI5F2j9CH50jwWeiA2VCrnG2AcV1NBht/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38393 [article]

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Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women : A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 547-560 Titre : Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women : A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Elodie Prestat-Marquis, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; Todd K. Shackelford, Auteur ; Bernhard Fink, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 547-560 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Âge chronologique Femmes Groupe ethnique Imagerie (technique) Perception de l'âge Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Accuracy in assessing age from facial cues is important in social perception given reports of strong negative correlations between perceived age and assessments of health and attractiveness. In a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study, we previously documented similar patterns of female facial age assessments across ethnicities, influenced by gender and ethnicity of assessors. - Methods : Here we extend these findings by examining differences between estimated age from digital portraits and chronological age (Δ age) for 180 women from three age groups (20–34, 35–49, 50–66 years) and five ethnicities (36 images of each ethnicity, assessed for age on a continuous scale by 120 female and male raters of each ethnicity). - Results : Across ethnicities, Δ age was smallest in French assessors and largest in South African assessors. Numerically, French women were judged oldest and Chinese women youngest relative to chronological age. In younger women, Δ age was larger than in middle-aged and older women. This effect was particularly evident when considering the interaction of women's age with assessor gender and ethnicity, independently and together, on Δ age. - Conclusion : Collectively, our findings suggest that accuracy in assessments of female age from digital portraits depends on the chronological age and ethnicity of the photographed women and the ethnicity and gender of the assessor. We discuss the findings concerning ethnic variation in skin pigmentation and visible signs of ageing and comment on implications for cosmetic science. Note de contenu : - Study sample - Facial imaging - Face ratings - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Sociodemographic information and skin pigmentation of female and male assessors in the rating study - Table 2 : Sociodemographic information and skin pigmentation of imaged female participants (n = 12 for each group, chronological age in years ± SD) - Table 3 : Main and interaction effects of assessor ethnicity and gender, and participant ethnicity and age group, on differences between perceived and chronological age (Δ age) of female portraits DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12727 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17PMapcZcJhKn_-Sd2WHq4uZ8M7av_CJ-/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36859 [article]

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The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 637-652 Titre : The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; J.-M. Monneuse, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 637-652 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Barrière cutanée Couche cornée Peau -- Anatomie Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Protéomique La protéomique désigne la science qui étudie les protéomes, c'est-à-dire l'ensemble des protéines d'une cellule, d'un organite, d'un tissu, d'un organe ou d'un organisme à un moment donné et sous des conditions données. Dans la pratique, la protéomique s'attache à identifier de manière globale les protéines extraites d'une culture cellulaire, d'un tissu ou d'un fluide biologique, leur localisation dans les compartiments cellulaires, leurs éventuelles modifications post-traductionnelles ainsi que leur quantité. Elle permet de quantifier les variations de leur taux d'expression en fonction du temps, de leur environnement, de leur état de développement, de leur état physiologique et pathologique, de l'espèce d'origine. Elle étudie aussi les interactions que les protéines ont avec d'autres protéines, avec l'ADN ou l'ARN, ou d'autres substances. La protéomique fonctionnelle étudie les fonctions de chaque protéine. La protéomique étudie enfin la structure primaire, secondaire et tertiaire des protéines. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : BACKGROUND : The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE : To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin. METHODS : Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software. RESULTS : Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease–anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase. CONCLUSION : Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study subjects - Sample collection and SC protein evaluation - Protein extraction, digestion and clean up - Nano-liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry - Data analysis and peptide annotation - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Serum diffusion linked markers - Proteases and protease inhibitors - Proteins related to SC cohesion - Proteins related to corneocyte maturation - Other enzymes contributing to NMF generation - Differentiation markers: keratins, annexins - Inflammation markers - Membrane trafficking, microtubule and cytoskeleton markers - Proteasome markers - Antioxidant markers - Heat-shock proteins - Signal transduction markers - SC lipid biochemical markers - Anti-microbial peptides - Lysosomal markers - Intermediary metabolism enzymes - Protein folding markers - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12426 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29479 [article]

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