The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups / F. Pouradier in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 629-636 Titre : The worldwide diversity of scalp seborrhoea, as daily experienced by seven human ethnic groups Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : F. Pouradier, Auteur ; C. Liu, Auteur ; J. Wares, Auteur ; E. Yokoyama, Auteur ; C. Collaudin, Auteur ; S. Panhard, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur ; G. Loussouarn, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 629-636 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir chevelu Groupe ethnique Mesure Peau -- Physiologie Sébum Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVE : The re-greasing process and kinetics of the human scalp, post-shampooing, have been previously documented, in vivo, on a few Caucasian subjects. The objective of the presented research was to extend such knowledge over seven different ethnic groups. METHODS : The post-shampooing re-greasing kinetics of the scalp was studied on 1325 subjects (women and men of two distinct age classes) from seven different ethnic groups in their residential and native country. Sebum amounts were determined onto small shaved scalp areas at various times post-shampooing, using the Sebumeter® technique. RESULTS : As previously published on Caucasian subjects, scalp re-greasing process follows a hyperbolic-like kinetics over days. However, amounts of collected sebum highly vary with ethnicity. As recorded through the casual level (CL) at the equilibrium phase, 2–3 days post-shampooing, the highest amount of sebum was found in African American subjects, followed in descending order by Caucasian American, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Caucasian European and Indian subjects, the latter showing very low values. Lower amounts of sebum were recorded in the older age class in all ethnics, as compared to the younger one, and male subjects were found higher sebum producers than women, irrespective of ethnicity. CONCLUSION : The kinetics and slopes of the re-greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. However, striking quantitative differences are found between the seven ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Locations and timing of the studies - Subjects - Protocol - Statistics - RESULTS : Sebum production over time in the seven groups - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12425 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29478 [article]

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Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance / C. Tabary in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 590-595 Titre : Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Tabary, Auteur ; F. Pouradier, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; Ségolène Panhard, Auteur ; L. Carvalho, Auteur ; F. Vincenzi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 590-595 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cheveux -- analyse Evaluation Protocole d'étude shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A sensory descriptive method is used by the industries to characterize their various products under development. The sensory panelists are recruited through some general criteria suggested in International Standard Sensory Analysis – General guidelines for the selection, training and monitoring of selected assessors and expert sensory assessors but for hair product evaluation, some hair criteria should also be considered, as a major challenge lied in the difficulty to recruit panelists. Such an issue led us to find practical solutions to make this recruitment easier. Among others, one possible solution was to restrict some requirements in the characteristics of hair. This study aimed at checking if a hair type diversification on either sensitization or curliness could influence the sensory perception of shampoos, and, if so, to which extent. This study demonstrates that, for a shampoo trained panel, the evaluation is impacted by the hair curliness but is not impacted by the hair sensitization level. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Fieldwork - Panelist recruitment - Attributes - Training - Products - Evaluation protocol - Performance analysis - Multiple Factor Analysis - Confidence ellipse - Profile comparisons - Sensory mapping - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Performance analysis results - Straight Hair Cell analysis - Routine analysis results - Products mapping - Table 1 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for control cell (n = 17). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 2 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SNat Cell (n = 31). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 3 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SHigh Cell (n = 35). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 4 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CCol Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 5 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CNat Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% - Table 6 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for straight cell (n = 83). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability is between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70% DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12650 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LHWUxof73Ikom-yYD1iHZKVLecSBsmmE/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35425 [article]

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