Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches : which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties ? / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 653-663 Titre : Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches : which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Galliano, Auteur ; J. Y. Kempf, Auteur ; Maxime Fougere, Auteur ; M. Applebaum, Auteur ; L. J. Wolfram, Auteur ; H. Maibach, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 653-663 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Etudes comparatives Toucher Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objectives : This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. Methods : Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root–tip vs. tip–root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like–dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair). Results : Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile-visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile-blind conditions. Conclusion : Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair swatches - Hair treatments - Protocols - Tactile evaluation by experts and NP: visual and blind conditions - Instrumental measurements - Frictional studies - Statistics - RESULTS : Tactile evalution by the NP and its preference mappings - Tactile evalution by experts and their preference mappings - Correlations between sensorial and objective measurements DOI : 10.1111/ics.12428 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29480 [article]

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Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties / A. Galliano in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 610-616 Titre : Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Galliano, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; F. Su, Auteur ; C. Wang, Auteur ; Y. Wang, Auteur ; C. Liu, Auteur ; A. Wagle, Auteur ; M. Guerin, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Steel, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 610-616 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Particules (matières) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Background : The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. Objectives : (i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under ‘real-life’ conditions of severe aerial pollution and (iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM onto the hair. Methods : In vitro : a PM was sprayed onto untreated or sebum-coated hair swatches. Real-life conditions : other swatches were exposed to a severely polluted environment, for 24 to 72 h, in Baoding (PR China). In both cases, swatches were examined using scanning electron microscopy. The shine, the frictional properties and the level of metals were measured and compared to those same properties for the unexposed swatches. Results : This work clearly indicates that, under real-life conditions, a large number of PM of various sizes are deposited onto the hair surface. This phenomenon is increased by the presence of sebum and longer exposure times. The in vitro level of PM deposited onto the hair surface is comparable to the in vivo level. The presence of sebum seems to favour the deposit of larger PM. The shine of the exposed swatches is significantly decreased, whereas their respective friction coefficients are significantly increased. Both the presence of sebum and length of exposure time increased the amount of analysed metals present on the exposed hair surface (Al, Fe, Cu, Ba and Zn). Conclusion : This work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real-life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase in friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair swatches - In vitro and real-life protocols - Instrumental and visual/tactile determinations - Statistics - RESULTS : Adhesion of particulate matter (PM) onto the hair surface - Impact on frictional properties - Impact on hair shine - Presence of metals - DISCUSSION DOI : 10.1111/ics.12416 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29471 [article]

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