[article]
| Titre : |
Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Hichem Kichou, Auteur ; Yuri Dancik, Auteur ; Christophe Eklouh-Molinier, Auteur ; Nicolas Huang, Auteur ; Martin Soucé, Auteur ; Laurianne Gressin, Auteur ; Guillaume Gillet, Auteur ; Igor Chourpa, Auteur ; Emilie Munnier, Auteur ; Franck Bonnier, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2022 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 262-270 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Emulsions sans émulsifiants
Epiderme
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau reconstruite
Pénétration cutanée
Ultrasons
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- Objective : The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions.
- Methods : The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared.
- Results : The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%–30% only.
- Conclusion : This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ingredients - Preparation of samples - Viscosity and pH measurement - Particle size measurement - Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) - Skin permeation experiments - High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis - Data analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterization of samples - In vitro caffeine permeation
- Table 1 : Composition (wt %) of the caffeine formulations studied
- Table 2 : Viscosity, pH, average particle size, D10, D50 and D90 for the ES-free emulsion and the reference emulsion
- Table 3 : Steady-state fluxes (Jss), lag times (tlag) and permeability coefficients (kp) obtained from cumulative amount profiles of caffeine through EpiSkin® RHE samples |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12772 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lFjiRKOEITkgH-9evR1GnTdiR9H6BvRV/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37727 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 262-270
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Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
