Advanced approaches in leather research using X-ray probe equipped SEM microscopy / Claudia Florio in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 101, N° 4 (07-08/2017)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 101, N° 4 (07-08/2017) . - p. 165-172 Titre : Advanced approaches in leather research using X-ray probe equipped SEM microscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Claudia Florio, Auteur ; Biagio Naviglio, Auteur ; Gianluigi Calvanese, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 165-172 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Microanalyse par émission X Microscopie électronique à balayage Morphologie (matériaux) Recherche Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Early microscopy techniques, such as optical, or the former electronic microscopy techniques, were widely utilised in leather research, mainly as an initial approach, or as additional tool to obtain useful information. Throughout the ages, the developments reached in microscopy technologies have allowed their utilisation as the main, determining tool to get results in many research fields.12 The modern scanning electron microscopy (SEM) technique that we have utilized in leather research, was equipped with an X-ray probe for the microanalysis of the samples and has resulted in being the most required, versatile tool in many applications: hair characterisation, characterisation of micro¬organisms involved in leather damage, investigations on leather defects and their causes, finishing characterisation, surface treatment studies, diagnostic investigations of historic leathers for their value and conservation. ln the majority of these applications a very small portion of sample was available for the analysis. In spite of this, the technique gave.comprehensive results and was able to solve the most problematic cases of leather damage that we investigated. Particularly, SEM rnicroanalysis is considered to be 'non-destructive' indeed, as X-rays generated by electron interactions do not lead to volume loss of the sample, so it is possible to analyze the same materials repeatedly. The study provided much interesting feedback, reinforcing our knowledge on all the topics dealt with. Note de contenu : - Morphological studies - Microanalysis En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CZ_OBeXNuZc34TERI387aNz4Sa-ZdslJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28889 [article]

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Advanced diagnostics and innovative solutions for leather defects : the problem of yellowing / Claudia Florio in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 103, N° 6 (11-12/2019)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 103, N° 6 (11-12/2019) . - p. 296-304 Titre : Advanced diagnostics and innovative solutions for leather defects : the problem of yellowing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Claudia Florio, Auteur ; Roberta Aveta, Auteur ; Gianluigi Calvanese, Auteur ; Biagio Naviglio, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 296-304 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Défauts Jaunissement (défaut) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Providing peculiar enhanced features to leather items is a factor of primary importance for the marketing of high-end articles; although tanning production is oriented to satisfy a wide market range, it is mainly in the `high end' and `premium luxury' categories that the quality properties of the material are more expressed, indeed. It is particularly on this market segment that the main current challenges have been focussed, according to the growing requirement of technological innovation, sustainability and product quality. Light-coloured leathers, with particular reference to white items, belong to the category of materials designed especially for the luxury market. For this type of articles, the uniformity of colour and the agreeable appeal of the overall surface appearance are crucial requirements for the most international fashion and luxury brands. One of the most common and undesirable defects of this type of article is the alteration of the colour, with particular reference to the localised or diffused effects of yellowing of the surface of the material. There are several causes able to contribute to the production of this type of defects, due to the complexity of the matrix and to the variability of traditional or innovative production processes used: from the intrinsic fragility, photosensitivity and thermo-sensitivity of the finishing polymers, to the chemical instability of some components of the finishing pigments, further the presence of photosensitive chemical additives, the migration of skin components or assembly components of the manufactured articles (fats, fillers, plasticisers, glues etc.), up to the indirect contribution of environmental and thermo-climatic factors able to affect negatively the performance of the material. SSIP, which has always been involved in research and consulting activities for the leather industry with regards to defect monitoring, through this work, would offer an overview of all the main tools for advanced diagnostics (with particular reference to Scanning Electronic Microscopy and to chromatographic and spectroscopic methods) aimed to the identification of the causes of yellowing, beside to explore innovative solutions for the development of strategies for the resolution and/or minimisation of the problem of yellowing. The technical solutions will include innovative tanning processes, innovative finishing methods, and leather surface treatments carried out in order to provide a sensible attenuation of surface absorption of IR and UV-visible radiation. Note de contenu : - Technical and diagnostic approach - Technical results - Possible technical solutions - Fig. 1 : The different main factors able to promote leather yellowing - Fig. 2 : IR spectra overlap of the topcoat of defective and not defective samples - Fig. 3 : Cross section and surface of a not defective calf leather and cross section and surface of a defective buffalo leather - Fig. 4 : IR Spectrum of the glue found on the sample: spectroscopic profile compatible with a polyacrylate - Fig. 5 : Gas-chromatographic profile of the organic extract of the defective sample (leather for footwear) - Fig. 6 : Overlap of the gas-chromatographic profiles of the organic extract of the defective and not defective parts of the sample (leather for automotive) - Fig. 7 : 2-Octyl-2H-isothiazol-3-one - Table 1 : Gas-chromatographic determination of the volatile substances in the non-defective sample - Table 2 : Gas-chromatographic determination of the volatile substances in the defective sample En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nLKxh25oQc7eYZjHyti_fPnv9AefpJdf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33206 [article]

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Biodegradation of wet-blue leather with different caldosporium species / Eser Eke Bayramoglu in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 101, N° 3 (05-06/2017)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 101, N° 3 (05-06/2017) . - p. 123-128 Titre : Biodegradation of wet-blue leather with different caldosporium species Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Eser Eke Bayramoglu, Auteur ; Claudia Florio, Auteur ; Gianluigi Calvanese, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 123-128 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Champignons microscopiques Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Cuirs et peaux -- Biodégradation Cuirs et peaux de moutons Microscopie Wet-blue (tannage) Peau tannée au chrome (le chrome donne une couleur bleue) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This study includes eight months observation of different Cladosporium species ; C. cladosporioides, C. herbarum and C. oxysporum inoculated on the wet-blue sheep leather. It was identified that the Cladosporium types grew easily and mineralized (oxidized) the leather with their enzymes, despite the chrome III in the wet-blue. Eight mores later, as a result of the optical microscopy-stereoscopy - superficiel analyses, SEM Microscopy/Secondary Electron Detector deeper morphological analysis and SEM Microscopy/X-Ray probe - microanalysis, wet-blue infected with Cladosporium - showed a high amount of calcium sulfate and sodium chloride based crystal clusters. Our resuits indicated that of all the fungi species we studied, a cladosporioides most affected the structure of the wet-blue sheep leather and Cr(III) had no toxic effect for this fungi's genus for eight months. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods - Leather processing - Microbiological analyses - FIGURES : 1. Optical microscope anaysis of the control samples - 2. SEM analysis of the control samples - 3. OM analysis of the wet-blue infected by C. oxysporum (6x) and (40x) - 4. SEM analyses of wet-blue infected by C. oxysporum with grain damage - 5. OM analysis of the wet-blue infected by C. herbarum (6x) and (40x) - 6. SEM analysis of the wet-blues infected by C. herbarum - 7. OM analysis of the wet-blue infected by C. cladosporioides (6x) and (40x) - 8. SEM analysis of the wet-blue infected by C. cladosporioides - 9. SEM X-ray probe microanalysis - A : Crystalline deposits ; B. Leather grain damage - 10. SEM X-ray probe microanalysis of C. cladosporioides - 1 : Crystalline deposits ; 2 : Possible microbiological matter En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gh9_fA9Stv3hyxVviYi5Vxr1ZEkLVy8w/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28796 [article]

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