| Résumé : |
Microalgae are considered to be single-cell factories. When cultivated in bioreactors, they consistently produce a sustainable and safe biomass through an optimal photosynthesis process, where culture media, pH, temperature, nutrients, and levels of dissolved oxygen and CO2 are strictly controlled. The biomass is rich in active ingredients with healthy benefits, including sugars, amino acids, lipids, polyphenols and vitamins.
While the lipidic fraction of microalgae has found applications in biofuels and nutritional supplements, the additional presence in the water-fraction of high levels of carbohydrates, amino acids and polyphenols has supported the use of microalgae extracts in cosmetics as well, specifically for their antioxidant, antiinflammatory, moisturising, lightening and antiageing properties.
Moreover, by cultivating microalgae and controlling their growth as well as their content, it is possible to produce functional actives sustainably and reproducibly. This optimised process reduces the need for a wild source, and is therefore more sustainable and also cleaner because there is no risk of pollutants.
We cultivated a specific Nannochloropsis microalga from the North Sea, Nannochloropsis Granulata, in controlled and optimised conditions. This microalga, which was first identified in the mid-1990s,6 has a high photosynthetic efficiency, with a large biomass. While the lipid component of the microalga is usually directed towards the nutritional supply chain, the remaining water-soluble fraction is mostly viewed as a by-product and wasted.
Because of its value, we extracted the watersoluble fraction containing sugars, amino acids and polyphenols, and concentrated it in an active ingredient for topical use. We then tested the capacity of the product, whose trade name is Akosky Vanity (INCI : Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Nannochloropsis Granulata Extract), to reduce skin ageing, specifically its ability to stimulate collagen production in cell lines and to increase skin firmness and elasticity in healthy volunteers when applied in a finished formulation. |
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Skin anti-ageing properties of a microalga extract in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 2 (02/2022)
