| Résumé : |
Undoubtedly, the leather dyeing industry is striving to obtain better fastness properties in dyeing. Highest fastness properties are demanded of glove and clothing suede leather. For these good wash and solvent fastness properties are desired. But requirements for light, water and perspiration fastness are also of considerable importance.
As chamois tannages are stable to alkali, and also washable, they recently have found use for the manufacture of fashionable dress goods.
Reactive dyestuffs with a vinyl sulphone group (which include the Remazol dyestuffs) make comparatively high fastness properties on chamois leather possible, which to a very far degree fulfil the fastness demands mentioned in the above. Amongst other dyestuffs that are used for the dyeing of chamois leather are sulphur dyestuffs and anthrasol dyestuffs, which give dyeings with good light and wash fastness. With sulphur dyestuffs, however, the dyeings to be obtained are rather dull in shade. Anthrasol dyestuffs have extremely high prices.
When dyeing with these dyestuffgroups they must be made water soluble or in the case of anthrasol dyestuffs are already available in the water soluble form, which is absorbed by the leather and then irreversibly transformed into an insoluble dyestuff, which is very wet fast. When using Azoic Naphtol AS compounds in combination with Azanil or fast colour salts the dyeing process is similar. When using reactive dyestuffs a genuine chemical linkage between dyestuff and collagen takes place, which is responsible for the fastness properties.
Chamois tanned suede leather is one of the few kinds of leather that are stable to washing and mild alkalis. It is therefore possible to dye in alkaline liquors and to use vinyl sulphone dyestuffs, which are dyed from such liquors. |
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Accueil
The dyeing of wash and dry cleaning fast chamois leather with vinyl sulphone dyestuffs in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 54, N° 11 (11/1970)
