| Titre : |
Potassium cetyl phosphate in natural formulations |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Swetlana Vogt, Auteur ; Yana Bykov, Auteur ; Maximilian Franke, Auteur ; Martina Spiegel, Auteur ; Martin Husmann, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2021 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 94-95 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Cosmétiques
Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Phosphate cétylique de potassium
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eau
Rhéologie
Viscosité
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Simple rules of science are sometimes in conflict with experimental results. Wellknown models do not always describe the mechanisms of real systems.
Potassium cetyl phosphate (PCetP) is such a material in which several rules are broken when it is used as emulsifier. HLB estimation methods1 would not predict that this anionic surfactant is an effective emulsifier. Macroemulsions based on it are remarkable in terms of their long-term stability and they show an extraordinary degree of robustness.
PCetP is neither water- nor oil-soluble as it tends to build-up natural membranes at interfaces. A synergism can be achieved when using long chain fatty alcohols as a partner. Valuable gel-like emulsions can be obtained in a natural way due to the formation of lamellar structures. This is similar to what is known about the essential role of phospholipids for living cells.
As shown in Figure 1, common anionic surfactants, like sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate and potassium oleate, are water-soluble and have an HLB value of above 20. Hence, a typical anionic surfactant is very far from being an ideal O/W emulsifier.
PCetP has a similar chemical structure. However, its solubility in water is very low and its HLB value, we have determined experimentally, is about 10.5. This is a typical value for an O/W emulsifier and differs considerably from the estimated value calculated by incremental methods. This calculation is applicable for classical emulsifiers, but is not suitable for PCetP. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Liquid crystal stabilisation
- Rheological behaviour
- Water resistance
- Fig. 1 : HLB ranges & values of different anionic surfactants
- Fig. 2 : Emulsion stabilisation promoted by Pair2Phase1
- Fig. 3 : Optical micrograph of anemulsion of sunflower oil in water with P2P emulsifier
- Fig. 4 : Shear test of P2P emulsions with different ratios of oil to water
- Fig. 5 : Viscosity of emulsions at shear rates of 5/s depending on the ratio between oil & water
- Fig. 6 : Formula of standard P2 cream according to Colipa 2005 water resistance test & modified P2 cream including P2P emulsifier system |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y_Wa72SizsILQpbLGB1u_8-Ltq5dpfii/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36937 |
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021) . - p. 94-95
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Potassium cetyl phosphate in natural formulations in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
