Biophotonics - A new field in efficacy testing UV-protection of skin and hair monitored by ICL-S and ICL-M / S. Bernard in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 40-45 Titre : Biophotonics - A new field in efficacy testing UV-protection of skin and hair monitored by ICL-S and ICL-M Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Bernard, Auteur ; M. Rohr, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 40-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimiluminescence Mesure Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photodétérioration Photonique Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Aim of this paper is to establish ICL-S (induced chemiluminescence of human skin) and ICL-H (induced chemiluminescence of human hair) as new approaches in the field of biophotonics for the determination of UV-induced skin and hair damage. Mainly UV-irradiation is capable of disturbing the balance (steady state equilibrium) between pro- and anti-oxi-dative reactions in the skin, resulting in and increased formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which can thereby damage living cells. Part of the energy of these reactions is released in form of photons. This UV-induced, but chemically generated pho-ton emission (chemiluminescence) is correlated to extent of damage. UV-irradiation plays also a major role in photo-degradation of hair, decreasing its tensile strength and resulting in photo-bleaching. In randomised, in vivo studies on healthy volunteers, the short-term photo-protective effects of chemical UVA-filters are demonstrated by a significant decrease in ICL-S up to 70%. Independent of the amount of UVB-protection (SPF 7, 14) a decrease of about 65% is measured in comparison to the untreated area if 2% of butyl methoxy-dibenzoylmethane is added to the test formulation. In addition to the in-vivo measurements on volunteers ICL-H is performed on commercially available hair tresses. A significant increase of more than 50% of the spontaneous photon-emission of UV-irradiated (8 hours of simulated sun light) is measured in comparison to virgin hair (no UV/no treatment). Photo-protection of the tresses is realised by application of commercially available "leave on "and" rinse of" products, in the course of which the leave on product shows, the best performance. The rinse off product with a quartenized UV-absorber shows at least some UV-protection and for the rinse off product with a claimed UV-protection no significant change is measured. Furthermore the amount of damage after subsequent perm and bleach treatments is correlated with the photon emission of the tresses. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Photon detection - Test design-Skin - Test design-Hair - RESULTS : UVA-protection of human skin - UV-protection on hair - Photon emission after perming and bleaching Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28185 [article]

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