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Characterization of surface and subsurface photodegradation of skin / Yash K. Kamath in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003) . - p. 199-205 Titre : Characterization of surface and subsurface photodegradation of skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Yash K. Kamath, Auteur ; Sigrid B. Ruetsch, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 199-205 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Fluorimétrie Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Produits antisolaires Spectrophotométrie UV-Visible Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In this work, fluorescence and ultraviolet spectroscopic methods have been adapted to characterize photochemical damage to skin. As opposed to the usual method of quantifying skin damage by erythema (redness), in this work we have tried to distinguish between surface and subsurface damage by applying spectroscopic methods mentioned above directly to the skin specimens. Subsurface damage, especially, is known to lead to immunosuppressive effects on the skin, sometimes resulting in skin cancer. Because the study involves subsurface effects, this work has been done in vitro using Yutacan black pigskin as the model. Formation of photodegradation products and their suppression in the presence of sunscreens has been demonstrated microspectrophotometrically. Two types of sunscreens have been used in this study : 1)TiO2 and ZnO which deposit and remain on the skin surface without penetration; and 2) Benzophenone-4, which is water soluble and is able to penetrate into the skin. The results clearly indicate that the particulate sunscreens protect the surface of Benzophenone-4 protects the subsurface regions of viable epidermis. The results seem to support a free radical mechanism of photodamage, where free radicals are generated near the surface by the interaction of radiation with the substrate, including trace minerals, particulate sunscreens and water. These free radicals diffuse into the subsurface regions of the skin to cause damage. To prevent such damage, the sunscreen molecules capable of diffusing into the substrate should be present in those regions to scavenge the free radicals. Otherwise, subsurface damage will proceed unchecked in spite of the sunscreens on the surface. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10557 [article]

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Short review of topical encapsulation technologies / Thomas Raschke in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003) . - p. 207-211 Titre : Short review of topical encapsulation technologies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Raschke, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 207-211 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodisponibilité Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Encapsulation Liposomes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Active ingredients play a pivotal role in modern cosmetics. They guarantee product performance and satisfy consumer expectations for more efficient cosmetic products. A trend towards application of highly active and often unstable substances for skin care purposes has been noticeable for some years. Thus, the choice of appropriate delivery systems has become crucial for cosmetic product development. This short paper reviews current encapsulation technologies, especially focusing on liposomes, micro-or nanoparticles, sponge-like microparticles and cyclodextrins. These delivery systems cover a broad range of chemically different actives and are effective in overcoming a variety of formulation hurdles. Currently, the main focus is on lipophilic actives, especially retinol. In this area, the aspects of sustained delivery and the reduction of unwanted side effects have been well addressed. For hydrophilic actives, however, efficient and applicable encapsulation methods are yet to be established. Another field for future innovations is improved bioavailability of the active at the target site and the selective triggering of drug release. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10570 [article]

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Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation / Lorena Rigo Gaspar in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003) . - p. 213-217 Titre : Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Lorena Rigo Gaspar, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 213-217 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Erythèmes Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire Produits antisolaires Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, vitamin E acetate is used as an antioxidant and moisturizer in sunscreens. Although free vitamin E presents UV protection effects, of vitamin E acetate on cutaneous photodamage, when combined with sunscreens. The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of a sunscreen formulation with or without vitamin E acetate on erythema in hairless mice, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation. The dorsal skin of mice was treated topically with sunscreen formulation with or without 5% vitamin E acetate in two different areas, 15 minutes before UVA/B irradiation. The addition of vitamin E acetate did not protect hairless mousse skin against erythema formation and TEWL. However, it protected the skin against sunburn cell formation. Consequently, vitamin E acetate can enhance the protective effects of sunscreens against sunburn cell formation, which can only be seen by traditional histopathological analysis, but will go unnoticed by non-invasive methodologies. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10571 [article]

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What is the most suitable strategy for stress proteins in cosmetics? / Christine Jeanmaire in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003) . - p. 221-226 Titre : What is the most suitable strategy for stress proteins in cosmetics? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christine Jeanmaire, Auteur ; Vincent Bardey, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; Philippe Moser, Auteur ; Philippe Moussou, Auteur ; Gilles Pauly, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 221-226 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cytoprotection  'Heat  shock  proteins'  Pollution  Skin  'Skin  defense'  Stress  UV Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Under various stress conditions, heat shock protein expression is enhanced in cells. Working on skin pieces, two of the major skin-expressed heat shock proteins, HSP72 and HSP27, were visualized by immunohistochemistry after several stress conditions (UV, pollutants, thermal shocks) and the heat shock protein expression quantified in the epidermis. A strong increase of the epidermal heat shock protein expression, due to these different stresses, was observed. The most suitable cosmetic strategy is discussed: does one need to prevent or to favor heat shock protein induction in cutaneous cells? A prevention strategy is suitable in the case of acute stress, such as severe UV exposure that provokes cell damage and a strong induction of heat shock proteins. It is demonstrated that, using a photoprotective active ingredient Sunactyl®, suppression of the heat shock protein expression of cells is linked to a protection of the cells against UV induced damages. An induction strategy is appropriate for chronic daily stress from various sources. Seeing that a small and controlled induction of heat shock proteins in the skin speeds up the response and enhances the cellular resistance to further stress, HSP-Balance® was developed, which boosts the heat shock protein induction in the skin under stress conditions. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10584 [article]

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PCA, A key NMF component, enhances micro blood circulation by modulating constitutive NO production / Kazuko Ogasahara in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 3 (07-08-09/2003) . - p. 229-232 Titre : PCA, A key NMF component, enhances micro blood circulation by modulating constitutive NO production Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kazuko Ogasahara, Auteur ; Manabu Kitazawa, Auteur ; Hiroshi Hayashi, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 229-232 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Amino  acid  transport'  'L-arginine  (L-Arg)'  'Human  aortic  endothelial  cells'  'Micro  blood  circulation'  'Nitric  oxide  (NO)'  'L-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic  (L-PCA)' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This study revealed an intrinsic biological function of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (L-PCA) to enhance micro blood circulation by modulating constitutive nitric oxide (NO) production. It is well known that NO, generated from L-arginine (L-Arg) by the action of NO synthase (NOS), plays a key role in the control of vascular tone and peripheral blood flow. In these studies we found a dose-dependent enhancement of constitutive NO production by L-PCA in human aortic endothelial cells. In contrast, D-PCA had no influence on NO production. Furthermore, L-PCA stimulated L-Arg uptake into human aortic endothelial cells in a dose-dependent manner while D-PCA had no effect, similar to its effect on NO production. L-Arg uptake and its stimulation by L-PCA to human aortic endothelial cells were suppressed with the cationic amino acid transporter. This result suggests that the enhancement of the NO production by L-PCA is due to the increase of L-Arg uptake via cationic amino acid transporter pathway. In conclusion, we found that L-PCA enhances micro blood circulation via a modulation of constitutive NO production. This intrinsic biological effect of L-PCA could lead to the development of innovative cosmetic products to care for problematic skin, such as dark circles under the eyes where a reduced micro blood circulation is one of the underlying causes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10585 [article]

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