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The characteristic decrease in scalp stratum corneum lipids in dandruff is reversed by the use of a zinc pyrithione (ZnPTO) containing shampoo / Helen Meldrum in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 3-6 Titre : The characteristic decrease in scalp stratum corneum lipids in dandruff is reversed by the use of a zinc pyrithione (ZnPTO) containing shampoo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Helen Meldrum, Auteur ; Clive R. Harding, Auteur ; Julia S. Rogers, Auteur ; Alison M. Moore, Auteur ; Chris J. Little, Auteur ; Peter L. Bailey, Auteur ; Clare Arrowsmith, Auteur ; Karen Darling, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 3-6 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antipelliculaires Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cornéosurfamétrie Couche cornée Pellicules (dermatologie) Pyrithione de zinc shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Corneosurfametry (CSM) studies on dandruff sufferers and healthy volunteers have confirmed earlier observations that dandruff is associated with a significant impairment of the stratum corneum barrier function, which is consistent with decreased stratum corneum lipids. Treatment of dandruff sufferers with anti-dandruff shampoo containing zinc pyrithione (ZnPTO) over 4 weeks resulted in a significant increase (p<0.05) in the levels of all stratum corneum lipids with concomitant improvement of the dandruff condition. ZnPTO treatment increased total free lipids from 0.97 μg/μg protein to 5.38 μg/μg protein, which was significant compared to placebo shampoo. The increase in stratum corneum lipids in the scalp occurred between days 14 to 28 of treatment. These results demonstrate that current anti-dandruff treatments may not only have anti-fungal properties but also act on the integrity of the skin barrier. Novel technologies may include actives that enhance either the rate or level of ceramide synthesis within the scalp stratum corneum and act to improve the quality of the epithelium. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10606 [article]

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Two factors governing transepidermal water loss : barrier and driving force components / Koji Endo in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 9-13 Titre : Two factors governing transepidermal water loss : barrier and driving force components Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Koji Endo, Auteur ; Noboru Suzuki, Auteur ; Osamu Yoshida, Auteur ; Hirayuki Sato, Auteur ; Teiji Kato, Auteur ; Yoshiaki Fujikura, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 9-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Peau Perméabilité Transfert de masse Transpiration Vapeur à haute pression Tags : Peau  'Fonction  barrière'  'Perte  d'eau  transépidermique'  Perméabilité  'Coefficient  de  transfert  masse'  'Vapeur  sous  pression' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A new method for separating the rates of transpidermal water loss (TEWL) into a barrier component and a driving force component was applied to human forearm skin in-vivo data. The rate of TEWL was measured with a ventilated chamber measurement system under different water vapor pressures. The apparent mass transfer coefficient of water, K, of the stratum corneum and the apparent water vapor pressure, Pd, at the interface between stratum corneum and underlying living cells of the epidermis were estimated using data fit optimization procedures. The rates of TEWL of forearm skin for all subjects decreased monotonically as the water vapor pressure of the carrier gas increased. Good fits of experimental in-vivo data to theoretical equations were obtained.Removal of the superficial stratum corneum cells by tape stripping increased the rates of TEWL, and K paralleled this increase; however, Pd showed little variation. Thus, K serves as a measure of the barrier component of TEWL. Rates of TEWL also showed a circadian rhythm that coincided with varations of Pd. In contrast, circadian changes of K were not apparent. This suggests that Pd may be responsible for the circadian variation in rates of TEWL and serves as a measure of the driving force component. Our results demonstrate that both K and Pd determine variations in the rates of TEWL. The use of K and Pd provide a more exact and reliable method for evaluating skin water loss than the rate of TEWL itself. Both parameters will be very useful in the fields of cosmetic science, dermatology and physiology. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10607 [article]

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Synthesis of 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate and its irritation-reducing activities / Jae Won You in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 15-18 Titre : Synthesis of 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate and its irritation-reducing activities Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jae Won You, Auteur ; Duck Hee Kim, Auteur ; Su Sun An, Auteur ; Ih Seop Chang, Auteur ; Hak-Hee kang, Auteur ; Ok Sub Lee, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 15-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aminoalkyle-menthyl-phosphate Anti-inflammatoires Peau -- Inflammation Visage -- Soins et hygiène Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A cosmetic raw material, aminoalkyl-menthyl-phosphate was synthesized and its irritation-reducing property was investigated. Aminoalkyl-menthyl-phosphate was prepared by the reaction of menthyl phosphorodichloride and aminoalcohol, followed by hydrolysis. Among them, 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate showed a significant effect to reduce the irritation caused by retinol and AHA, which is comparable to that of hydrocortisone, a steroidal anti-inflammatory drug. In addition, its synthetic scheme was very simple and economic and we could prepare 3-aminopropyl-menthyl-phosphate with high purity and good yield. Inclusion of such an ingredient in cosmetics that contain biologically active compounds such as retinol and AHA may result in preparations with a lower irritation potential. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10611 [article]

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Factors influencing skin moisturization signal using near-infrared spectroscopy / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 19-26 Titre : Factors influencing skin moisturization signal using near-infrared spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Marchel Snieder, Auteur ; Nico A. G. Dekker, Auteur ; Wei G. Hansen, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 19-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Hygrométrie Peau -- Anatomie et histologie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Spectroscopie infrarouge proche Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The effectiveness of skin moisturizers can be measured by electrical and spectroscopic methods. We explored the benefits of near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy for the investigation of skin moisturization. This technique provides information on the interaction of water molecules with its surrounding structures and has been used to identify whether the water is freely moving, loosely or tightly bound. We first assessed the penetration depth of NIR radiation and found it to go as deep as the dermis. Using second-derivative spectra, the presence of the various water peaks, representing the different forms of water were identified and we derived a "total water" parameter from this. We used this parameter to study the influence of anatomical site, gender and age volunteer, emotional status of the subject and effect of smoking and relative humidity on the occurrence, abundance and type of water. The anatomical site certainly contributed to the overall variability in signal, as did gender, age and smoking. Care had to be taken near blood vessels as blood components could interfere with the signal, as well as the location of the measuring spot. Whereas the gender of volunteers could be easily detected in a spectrum, possibly based on the sex hormones in their blood, we also noted that females had more water in their skin than males. As with superficial water, the deeper water content decreased with age. Smoking also negatively influenced the water content of the skin: smoking aged the skin by about 15 years in terms of its water content. We conclude that NIR is an interesting new technology that may yield more fundamental insight into the process of skin moisturization, especially when combined with other techniques. However, volunteers need to be very carefully selected, as without this, differences between subjects will obscure the effects of moisturizing ingredients. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10612 [article]

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Development and application of intelligent drug delivery systems in dermatology and cosmetics / Sylvia Marton in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 1 (01-02-03/2003) . - p. 29-36 Titre : Development and application of intelligent drug delivery systems in dermatology and cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sylvia Marton, Auteur ; Gabriella Csoka, Auteur ; Istvan Racz, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 29-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermatologie Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Tags : 'Cholesteryl  oleyl  carbonate'  'Intelligent  drug  delivery  system'  Melotose  'Pulsatile  'Responsive  Thermoresponsability  'TTS  patch' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The development of new intelligent drug delivery systems is a relatively recent technology. Sometimes, it is a requirement to liberate the active material while symptoms develop and continue to exist. For such purposes self-regulated, responsive, pulsatile systems are ideal. Several new polymeric auxiliary materials have appeared and in this article new manufacturing processes are presented to produce thermoresponsive intelligent drug delivery systems using these materials. The types, the development and application of devices in dermatology and cosmetics are discussed with special attention to the production, characterization and testing of some types of transdermal therapeutic soft-patch systems (membrane-controlled, matrix-controlled). The matrix and the film were produced from Metolose, a cellulose derivative, whereas the thermoresponsive property was achieved via the use of cholesteryl oleyl carbonate (COC). The « on-off » state-realized by the sol-gel transition or smetic to cholesteric, cholesteric-isotropic liquid phases changes –was tested by static and dynamic methods by changing the temperature. Attention was given to the fact that the presence of inappropriate auxiliary material may destroy and cancel pulsatile drug delivery due to absorption or incompability. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10615 [article]

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