Dépouillements

Molecular modeling of personal care ingredients to create specific skin sensory characteristics / Johann W. Wiechers in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 171-177 Titre : Molecular modeling of personal care ingredients to create specific skin sensory characteristics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Cock Verboom, Auteur ; Wim A. J. Starmans, Auteur ; Vincent A. L. Wortel, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 171-177 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Résumé : Objective : In order to explore the existence of a relationship between the molecular structure of a personal care ingredient and its skin performance, we applied molecular modeling techniques to data obtained in skin sensory studies. Methods : Expert panels evaluated 29 personal care ingredients, which were described using 31 sensory characteristics ( attributes). Principal Component Analysis (PCA) was performed on the sensory results. This revealed which attributes were correlated and the amount of variance within the data set for each attribute. Attributes containing minor variance were removed. Subsequently, a subset of six different relevant attributes, representing different classes of sensory feelings, was selected : Adsorbency, Coating,Oily, Shiny and Thickness. Approximately 80 two-dimensional molecular descriptors, representing e.g length, branching and polarity of the ingredients, were calculated. Again, uninformative molecular descriptors were eliminated. Partial Least Squares regression PLS betzeen sensory attributes and molecular descriptors yielded a model for the six attributes. Results Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10718 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
003872	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Possibilities for the prediction of an active substance penetration through epidermis / Jacek Arct in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 179-183 Titre : Possibilities for the prediction of an active substance penetration through epidermis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jacek Arct, Auteur ; Malgorzata Gronwald, Auteur ; Krzysztof Kasiura, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 179-183 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The possibilities of the prediction of active compounds penetration into the skin is useful while creating new raw materials and new “active” cosmetics. Therefore interest on penetration of exogenous cosmetic substances has grown amazingly over the past several years. The fact is that the penetration process is very complex and depends on a very large number of different factors, i.e. the properties of the barrier which is the stratum corneum, biological and physical factors, delivery system, presence of penetration enhancers and last but not least the physicochemical properties of the penetrant. This is why, in most cases, prediction of penetration abilities into and through the stratum corneum only on the basis of the knowledge is difficult, and requires a huge experience in this field. Many “predictive” models of penetration were discovered which give quantitative information about an active compound penetration into and through the skin but these do not take all of the various factors into account. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10721 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
003872	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

ICL-H (Induced Chemiluminescence of Human Hair) a new method for quantitative analysis of hair-stress / S. Benard in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 185-189 Titre : ICL-H (Induced Chemiluminescence of Human Hair) a new method for quantitative analysis of hair-stress Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Benard, Auteur ; H. Nerenz, Auteur ; M. Rohr, Auteur ; K. Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 185-189 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'ICL-H  (Induced  Chemiluminescence  of  Human  Hair)'  'Hair  damage'  Perming  Bleaching  Conditioning  colour'  UV-irradiation  'Non  invasive  measurements' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : For optimal product development, a quantitative assessment of the mechanical and chemical properties of hair is required. A new method is established to study primary chemical damage of hair from oxidative and reductive treatments. ICL-H (Induced Chemiluminescence of Human Hair) is based on the fact that part of the energy of redox-reactions is released in form of photons. Thus after chemical alterations of hair a very low level photon emission is detectable. By inducing UV-irradiation an increase in signal intensity is obtained. The aim of this investigation is to gain basic knowledge about the origin of ICL-H signal intensity with the amount of damage after subsequent perm and bleach treatments. The results show an increase of ICL-H as a function of the processing time and a correlation with other important parameters of perming and bleaching as well as a correlation with hair colour. Furthermore the overall effects of different preventive conditions to reduce the effects of hair damage are discussed. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10722 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
003872	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Barrier function and aging skin : current and new therapeutic strategies / Linda D. Rhein in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 191-198 Titre : Barrier function and aging skin : current and new therapeutic strategies Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Linda D. Rhein, Auteur ; Barbara Wolf, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 191-198 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10723 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
003872	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

The influence of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum by infrared and raman spectroscopy / Th. Prasch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 201-206 Titre : The influence of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum by infrared and raman spectroscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Th. Prasch, Auteur ; K. Schlotmann, Auteur ; K. Schmidt-Fonk, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 201-206 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Lipids  'Bound  water'  'In-vitro  skin'  'in-vivo-infrared  spectroscopy'  'de-fatting'  'Lamellar  cream' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and as such represents the decisive barrier between the body and the environment. The combination of horny cells and lamellar lipid layers prevents water loss from the body and protects it against penetration by exogenous substances. For selective investigation of the thin outermost stratum corneum layer, ATR-FTIR (attenuated-total-reflection-Fourier-transform-infrared) spectroscopy has proved itself in practice. It provides information about the sebum content, type of fatty substances, water content and degree of order of the lamellar lipid film in the stratum corneum. Complementary information is obtained by NIR-FT-Raman (near-infrared-Fourier-transform-Raman) spectroscopy, which is shown in comparison to infrared spectroscopy by scrutinizing in-vitro epidermis and full-skin models. In cleansing processes a large part of the sebum is removed from the skin. The skin reacts to the de-fatting process by the rapid secretion of sebum. Cleansing with a mild facial cleansing emulsion de-fats the skin less than a surfactant shower gel. Skin creams cause alterations to the skin moisture and in the degree of order of the stratum corneum lipids. A lamellar cream with a structure similar to, but not identical to, that of the stratum corneum lipids increases the degree of order of the alkyl chains of the skin lipid film (biomimetic principle) while a conventional w/o cream reduces this degree of order Skin moisture increases after the use of the creams. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10724 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
003872	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Topical formulations for targeted delivery into hair follicles / Neti Waranuch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 3 (07-08-09/2001) . - p. 207-210 Titre : Topical formulations for targeted delivery into hair follicles Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Neti Waranuch, Auteur ; Chandrasekharan Ramachandran, Auteur ; Norman Weiner, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 207-210 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The ternary solvent system of 20% water (W), 20% propylene glycol (PG), and 60% ethanol (Eth) in volume is a good solvent for several compounds of hair-treatment products but unlikely to facilitate the efficient delivery of those compounds into hair follicles, a target site of action. The current study was undertaken to demonstrate that follicular-delivery of compounds could be enhanced by sebum-compatible vehicle systems. A represented compound, minoxidil, deposition into human and hairless mouse skins was evaluated. Microautoradiographic studies were also conducted with airless rhino mouse skin to ascertain follicular deposition. The results indicate that the proprietary follicular delivery systems named UM3025 and UM3014 were superior vehicles for delivery of the represented compound into hair follicles compared to a vehicle composed of 20%W, 20% PG and 60% Eth, the control. The minoxidil levels detected in human cadaver skin were about 7-fold and 25-fold higher with UM3025 and UM3014, respectively, compared to those from the control formulation. Therefore, these proprietary systems may be potentially promising candidates in the development of “root to tip” hair treatment products. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10725 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
003872	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible