[article]
| Titre : |
Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Dilek Guneri, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2020 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 632-636 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Caucasien(ne)s
Cornéocytes
Couche cornée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Femmes
Hydrophobie
Nicotinamide
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Age‐related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4‐week placebo‐controlled study.
The stratum corneum (SC) undergoes a variety of catabolic and anabolic reactions towards its outer surface layers in preparation for its external assault from the terrestrial environment. These events are essential for the formation of a healthy barrier. Key is the maturation of the corneocyte envelope (CE) (Fig. 1). Morphologically, CE’s appear fragile in the deeper layers of the SC and more rigid in the outer layers, the mechanics of which have been confirmed with several biomechanical approaches. Early methods to assessing the maturity of the CE’s were based upon staining with tetramethylrhodamine isothiocyanate (TRITC) where rigid CEs stain more intensely than fragile ones. Later, their protein content was assessed by involucrin immunochemistry and their lipid content by Nile red staining which was then expressed as a ratio. Using these approaches, improvements in CE maturity of the volar forearm and the legs have been observed with moisturizers containing glycerol and niacinamide. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Fig. 1 : Model of the corneocyte envelope (CE). An early step in the cornification process is the formation of the intercellular cytoskeleton mainly composed of keratin filaments and filaggrin. Cross-linking of proteins, mainly of loricrin and involucrin form the rigid inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Then, a lipid monolayer, the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), is covalently attached to the CPE. The CLE serves as a scaffold for the lamellar organization of the extracellular lipid matrix.
- Fig. 2 : Facial test sites, central forehead (CF), cheek (CH) (3 cm vertically beneath the outer edge of the eye), top nasolabial sulcus (NT), midpoint nasolabial sulcus (NM)
- Fig. 3 : Baseline data, differences of CE maturation parameters (size (a), hydrophobicity (b), rigidity (c), RCEM (d)) between young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison young vs. old, * P < 0.05, ns not significant
- Fig. 4 : Baseline corrected data of the impact of topically applied niacinamide on CE maturation parameters (hydrophobicity (a), rigidity (b), RCEM (c)) in young and aged facial SC. Data are mean SEM, statistical comparison baseline vs. treatment, * P < 0.05, ns not significant
- Table 1 : INCI list of test creams |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12666 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xzLcNcWvc1rQwBPvftiLnXvrVinoYNlz/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35430 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 632-636
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Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)
