Observation of the sweating in lipstick by scanning electron microscopy / S.-Y. Seo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 3 (06/1999) . - p. 207–216 Titre : Observation of the sweating in lipstick by scanning electron microscopy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S.-Y. Seo, Auteur ; I.-S. Lee, Auteur ; H.-Y. Shin, Auteur ; K.-Y. Choi, Auteur ; S.-H. Kang, Auteur ; H.-J. Ahn, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 207–216 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Transpiration  dans  le  rouge  à  lèvres'  'Microscopie  électronique  balayage'  (MEB)  'Matrice  de  cire'  'Procédé  substitution  gel' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The relationship between the wax matrix in lipstick and sweating has been investigated by observing the change of size and shape of the wax matrix due to sweating by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). For observation by SEM, a lipstick sample was frozen in liquid nitrogen. The oil in the lipstick was then extracted in cold isopropanol (−70 °C) for 1–3 days. After the isopropanol was evaporated, the sample was sputtered with gold and examined by SEM. The change of wax matrix underneath the surface from fine, uniform structure to coarse, nonuniform structure resulted from the caking of surrounding wax matrix. The oil underneath the surface migrated to the surface of lipstick with sweating; consequently the wax matrix in that region was rearranged into the coarse matrix. In case of flamed lipstick, sweating was delayed and the wax matrix was much coarser than that of the unflamed one. The larger wax matrix at the surface region was good for including oil. The effect of molding temperature on sweating was also studied. As the molding temperature rose, sweating was greatly reduced and the size of the wax matrix increased. It was found that sweating was influenced by the compatibility of wax and oil. A formula consisting of wax and oil that have good compatibility has a tendency to reduce sweating and increase the size of the wax matrix. When pigments were added to wax and oil, the size of the wax matrix was changed, but in all cases sweating was increased due to the weakening of the binding force between wax and oil. On observing the thick membrane of wax at the surface of lipstick a month after molding it was also found that sweating was influenced by ageing. In conclusion, the structure of the wax matrix at the surface region of lipstick was changed with the process of flaming, molding temperature, compatibility of wax and oil, addition of pigment, and ageing. In most cases, as the size of the wax matrix was increased, sweating was reduced and delayed. DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181705.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181705.x Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26492 [article]

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