Titre : |
Comparison of dry cleaning test methods |
Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
Auteurs : |
A. W. Landmann, Auteur |
Année de publication : |
1979 |
Article en page(s) : |
p. 109-113 |
Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
Catégories : |
Cuir -- Nettoyage Essais (technologie) Nettoyage à sec
|
Index. décimale : |
675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure |
Résumé : |
There is an increasing tendency to specify the performance of leather. For clothing leather, its behaviour to dry cleaning is an essential property and poor performance is probably the greatest source of consumer complainte. The original UK method for testing leather was based on tumbling with solvent using conditions recommended by Davis and Nursten. Experience with this procedure in the textile industry showed poor correlation with actual dry cleaning and the method was modified by the addition of steel discs. This procedure was subsequently adopted by the textile industry and forms the basis of both ISO and BSI procedures ; it has also been adopted by the SLTC as method SLF 12.5 However, it does not involve detergents and its main drawback so far as leather is concerned is that no re-oiling is involved. This means that the test gives rather worse ratings for leather because removal of oil in the test causes an optical loss of colour which in commercial dry cleaning is restored by addition of oil to a rinse bath or applied as a subsequent spray.
On the Continent, alternative methods have been developed in Germany and Switzerland specifically for leather. The IULTCS Fastness Tests Commission (IEKL) is now considering which of these methods to adopt. Both German and Swiss methods involve detergent addition and some form of oil replacement. In order to provide some factual comparative evidencq, this comparison of methods and some variations in procedure were undertaken so that the IEKL would have a reasonable basis on which to come to a decision. The present position where specifications are based on different methods is clearly unsatisfactory.
Area change after simulated dry cleaning tests has not been incorporated in the SLTC methods, but is referred to in German publications. In this work dimensional changes have been reported on leather conditioned at 20°C, 65 % r.h. initially and after drying. This procedure will tend to maximise recorded shrinkage in tests where solvent is removed at 60°c subject to hysteresis effects. |
Note de contenu : |
- EXPERIMENTAL : Grain, change of pattern - Flesh side - Change in pattern - Staining of fabric - Area shrinkage
- CONCLUSIONS : Suggestions for a leather dry cleaning test
- TABLE 1 : Average performance of leathers subjected to seve laboratory cleaning tests (high numbers = good performance)
- TABLE 2 : Cumulative frequency of grey scale ratings (% samples achieving grade or better) after cleaning. Colour change on the grain surface
- TABLE 3 : Percentage cumulative frequency of grey scale ratings (% samples achieving grade or better) after cleaning on the flesh side (suede)
- Table 4 : Percentage cumulative frequency of change in sample area after cleaning (% samples)
- Appendix 1 : Methods of dry cleaning
- Appendix 2 : The effect of cleaning on colour (grain/flesh
- Appendix 3 : The effect of cleaning test on colour of cotton bag |
En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ufd7vZiWSHnLk-vaW9vICZP_uYkKaBYw/view?usp=drive [...] |
Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34134 |
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 63, N° 6 (11-12/1979) . - p. 109-113