[article]
Titre : |
Upgrading poor leathers |
Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
Auteurs : |
Karl Flowers, Auteur |
Année de publication : |
2019 |
Article en page(s) : |
p. 64-68 |
Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
Catégories : |
Cuirs et peaux -- Défauts Défauts -- Réparation
|
Index. décimale : |
675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure |
Résumé : |
The central philosophy on how low-quality raw material can be converted into a higher quality relies on some visual alterations of the leather surface. With ever decreasing raw material quality, the challenge is for tanners to become more imaginative than ever to try and improve the perceived quality of the leather. Of course, if better quality raw material can be purchased, then the tanner's job becomes easier.
The simple fact of the perception of surface quality is this: the hide/skin surface is normally perceived as high quality if the light from a source shines onto the grain of the leather. The grain will reflect the light to the eye (or observer) if there is no impedance of that light beam. If any disfiguration of the hide/skin surface takes place that interrupts the pattern of the grain, then the eye will immediately be drawn to that interruption. It goes without saying that the larger the interruption of that pattern, the more visible the mark will be. Invisible marks are characterised by small marks, or by marks that have been able to heal as to resemble the pattern of the grain before the disfiguration took place.
The disfiguration of the grain could have been the result of any living animal damage, the damage obtained from the slaughter, or from the leather manufacturing process. Some animais are more prone to marking, and all animais will heal differently. Some hides/skins will seem more scarred compared to animais who have been through the same disfigurement. The degree of healing may also play quite a large role in the prominence of the scar tissue. |
Note de contenu : |
- Tanning
- Other wet processing
- Filling
- Opacity
- Texture
- Two-tone
- Enhancement
- Fig. 1 : An open defect is filled using filling compounds to produce a smooth surface. Sometimes air is trapped in the infill, which can pose problems
- Fig. 2 : The principle of opacity - the visible marking is cosy to spot due to a lack of interference, while B shows the placement of an opaque chemical makes a marking invisible
- Fig. 3 : A healed scar is hidden using the clever use of a texture which blends the prominence of the mark in with a pronounced grain pattern |
En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AqQ7TErJPW-JRFX2dRqycMKA8gQnaW6Y/view?usp=drive [...] |
Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33625 |
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 37 (09-10/2019) . - p. 64-68
[article]
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