Effect of fatliquoring on grain and corium quality of leather assessed by ball bursting and tearing tests / Albert M. Manich in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXI, N° 4 (04/2016)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXI, N° 4 (04/2016) . - p. 127-140 Titre : Effect of fatliquoring on grain and corium quality of leather assessed by ball bursting and tearing tests Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Albert M. Manich, Auteur ; J. Barneys, Auteur ; L. Martinez, Auteur ; J. Lloria, Auteur ; Agusti Marsal, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 127-140 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Déchirure (mécanique) Essais dynamiques Huiles et graisses Produits de nourriture du cuir Wet-blue (tannage) Peau tannée au chrome (le chrome donne une couleur bleue) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Leather quality depends largely on the physical, mechanical and organoleptic characteristics of the finished leather from which the final articles are manufactured. Tearing strength and ball burst tests are especially relevant for leather goods that will be subjected to significant tearing and bursting stresses during use. The influence of different fatliquors on tearing and ball burst tests is studied using wet-blue leathers from Ireland as starting material. Leathers were retanned and dyed following a conventional process and then, they were fatliquored with nine different fatliquoring agents provided by Trumpler Española. A 7% of active matter (on shaved weight) was applied. After a final washing, a sample of the treated leathers was kept in "crust" state (without finishing), and the rest received a light finishing process following a conventional recipe. To estimate differences between sides, the central parts of them were fatliquored with the same combination used as reference (sulphited triglycerides of rapeseed oil/fatty polymer). The characteristic components of the fatliquoring agents used were a) Soy lecithin, b) Sulphited triglycerides of rapeseed oil, c) Acrylic polymer (waterproofing agent), d) Fatty Polymers (sarcosinates), e) Sulphated triglycerides of rapeseed oil, f) Phosphoric Ester, g) C14 Paraffin, h) Sulphonated paraffin, and i) Sulphited fish oil. Based on the experimental results, treatments with similar effects on tearing and ball burst test behavior were grouped, clustering the fatliquors with similar effects on these characteristics when compared with the results of the non-fatliquored leather. The effect of finishing has also been studied. Note de contenu : - Crack increase in tearing and energy - Bursting behavior, grain crack and energy - Objectives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DrXjtrgPwuKzCha7l3x4BBKSRmT45vV8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25992 [article]

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Effect of fatliquoring on leather comfort. Part III : Moisture absorption-desorption of leather / Albert M. Manich in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXII, N° 10 (10/2017)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXII, N° 10 (10/2017) . - p. 347-355 Titre : Effect of fatliquoring on leather comfort. Part III : Moisture absorption-desorption of leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Albert M. Manich, Auteur ; Joan Barenys, Auteur ; L. Martinez, Auteur ; J. Lloria, Auteur ; Josep Carilla, Auteur ; Agusti Marsal, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 347-355 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Absorption Désorption Huiles et graisses Humidité Produits de nourriture du cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The comfort of tanned hide/skin is an added value, which is decisive for the choice of leather in articles for footwear or clothing, compared to other alternatives whose design excludes this component. This comfort is related to the capacity of absorption and desorption of moisture and with the physical, mechanical and organoleptic characteristics of the leather. After tanning, fatliquoring and retanning are the operations that more intensively modify the characteristics of leather articles. This work is a continuation of two previous ones that have studied the influence of fatliquoring on softness and compressibility of leather and on grain and corium quality of leather assessed by ball bursting and tearing tests. In this case, the effect of fatliquoring on moisture absorption-desorption characteristics of leather is studied. The experimental work has been carried out in the pilot plant of Trumpler Española S. A. and the moisture absorption-desorption tests in the Laboratory of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry of the IQAC. The behavior of non-fatliquored leather and that of leather fatliquored with a combination of sulphited triglycerides of colza oil and fatty polymer (TCSi/PGR) or fatliquored separately with their components TCSi and PGR, or with phosphoric ester ESF or sulphited fish oil Psi has been determined. The determination of the size of the moisture absorbing monolayer (Xm), the binding energy constants of the monolayer C and the multilayer K, the maximum absorption capacity at saturation X1 and the hysteresis (Hyst.) between absorption and desorption, enabled us to classify the different fatliquoring agents according to stage (crust-blue, finished-red) by applying factorial analysis (see following graph). Finishing is the factor that best explains this behavior. Finishing decreases the size of the monolayer and increases the binding energy constants. Fatliquoring decreases the maximum absorption capacity and hysteresis, partially affecting the reduction of the monolayer size. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Absorption isotherms - Objective - METHODS : Calculation of absorption and desorption isotherms - Specific surface of absorption - Hysteresis - DISCUSSION : Monolayer size - Binding energy constant of the monolayer - Binding energy constant of the multilayer - Average hysteresis and maximum absorption capacity at saturation - Size of the absorption monolayer and apparent density - Ration between monolayer size estimations in desorption and absorption, and the mean hysteresis - Relationship between moisture absorption/desorption characteristics and tearing energy En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YhPToI0K4j6ES-VmHsYYK5P_PJn--Rx1/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29249 [article]

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