| Titre : |
Fine hair on american bovine leathers |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Luis A. Zugno, Auteur ; Andreas Rhein, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2019 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 20-24 |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Cuirs et peaux -- Défauts
Cuirs et peaux de bovins
NubuckLe nubuck1 est une croute de daim ou de cuir. Sa particularité vient du fait qu'il a subi un traitement particulier. En effet, sa surface a été meulée ou grattée au papier de verre très fin. C'est pourquoi il revêt cette apparence veloutée et sa douceur au toucher. Le ponçage de la fleur lui donne un aspect qui diffère largement du suède. Comme seule la surface externe du cuir est touchée par le traitement, il possède une meilleure résistance et conserve toute la finesse de son grain.
Il est utilisé particulièrement dans l'industrie de l'ameublement pour la fabrication des fauteuils et canapés ainsi que par l'industrie de la chaussure. Il est souvent assez coûteux, car c'est une matière qui a une certaine noblesse. Son nom provient probablement de la langue anglaise, et de new buck qui signifie nouveau daim.
Poils fins
Wet-blue (tannage)Peau tannée au chrome (le chrome donne une couleur bleue)
Wet-white (tannage)
|
| Index. décimale : |
675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure |
| Résumé : |
Fine hair is the biggest seasonal challenge for bovine leather production in the U.S.. The presence of fine hair on American bides is an old problem and has increased in the past few decades due to changes in breed, feed, herd movement and climatic adaptations. The changes in the processing conditions in the tannery have also contributed to this problem. There is limited information on the topic, and the industry has accepted that fine hair is a seasonal problem and cannot be resolved ; beamhouse leather producers and customers work to manage it the best way possible to minimise the problem. The limited processing time practised in the U.S. during soaking and the unhairing/liming of fresh hides aggravates the fine hair problem. In comparison, salted or brine cured bides processed in the U.S. or overseas have minimised this problem. For simplification purposes, in this article we will use the term wet-blue to define both wet-blue and wet-white leathers.
Jean J. Tancous in her book 'Skin, Hide and Leather Defects' says : "The fine hair problem cannot be completely blamed on poor beamhouse techniques as it may arise from a 'natural characteristic' of the animal ; for instance, the shedding of the hair root which occurs at seasonal intervals. As a hair grows older, the root atrophies and shrinks; it then faits out. A new papillary hair invaginates below the receding old hair and, thus, the old hair is replaced by a deeply rooted, new fine hair. It is unfortunate for the tanner that new short hair has firmly anchored roots, as they resist easier removal in the beamhouse and cause the fine hair difficulties." |
| Note de contenu : |
- Hair growth cycle and seasonal changes in hair growth
- Results and discussion
- Significance to the tanning industry
- There are some historical and practical observations
- Factors that can minimise the fine hair problem
- Fig. 1 : Cross sections Haematoxylin-eosin stain. Left shows examples of papillary and club hairs. Right shows the relative size of the papillary and dub hairs
- Fig. 2 : Optical photograph of wet-blue with fine hair and cross section of the wet-blue showing intact hairs
- Fig. 3 : Optical photograph of trust leather with fine hair and SEM image with hair measurements (65X)
- Fig. 4 : Optical photograph of nubuck leather with fine hair and SEM picture of a nubuck, where the hair was cut in the middle during buffing (160x)
- Fig. 5 : Drawing of a bovine wet-blue leather showing the three most common areas of fine hair. The front pocket is the most common, followed by the neck and butt areas |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/11dZDbl-IYKMAdvA98WoyBSfdKUtiqqbK/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33137 |
in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 38 (11-12/2019) . - p. 20-24
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Fine hair on american bovine leathers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 38 (11-12/2019)
