An approach to sustainable coloration of lyocell fabrics by screen printing using extracts of leaves and bark from eucalyptus / Dawn L. Ellams in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 130, N° 1 (02/2014)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 130, N° 1 (02/2014) . - p. 48-53 Titre : An approach to sustainable coloration of lyocell fabrics by screen printing using extracts of leaves and bark from eucalyptus Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Dawn L. Ellams, Auteur ; Robert M. Christie, Auteur ; Sarah Robertson, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 48-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alun Colorants végétaux Eucalyptus et constituants Extraction (chimie) Fibres cellulosiques Frottements (mécanique) Mordançage (teinture) Photostabilité Résistance au lavage Sérigraphie Teinture -- Fibres textiles Textiles et tissus -- Propriétés mécaniques Textiles et tissus imprimés Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : This paper presents an initial study from a more extensive programme of research at the design/technology interface that is focused on the use of design methodology as a means to lower the environmental impact of fashion clothing. The leaves and bark that are by products of the responsibly farmed eucalyptus used in the manufacture of lyocell fibres were extracted with water to provide a source of natural colour. Lyocell fabric, which required minimal preparation, was screen printed with an aqueous paste containing only the extracted colour and a natural thickener to provide attractive golden-yellow prints. The printed fabrics demonstrated surprisingly good fastness towards light, washing and rubbing. A mordanting pretreatment of the lyocell with alum modified the colour of the naturally coloured prints to become stronger and duller, but provided no advantage in terms of technical performance. The outcome presents a potentially useful model for the development of sustainably coloured fashion textile products. Note de contenu : - Material - Dye extraction - Fabric pretreatment - Mordanting - Screen printing - Assessment DOI : 10.1111/cote.12056 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12056 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20359 [article]

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Colour and constitution relationships in organic pigments : Part 6 Azonaphtharylamide pigments / Robert M. Christie in SURFACE COATINGS INTERNATIONAL. PART B : COATINGS TRANSACTIONS, Vol. 89, B1 (03/2006)  

[article]  inSURFACE COATINGS INTERNATIONAL. PART B : COATINGS TRANSACTIONS > Vol. 89, B1 (03/2006) . - p. 77-85 Titre : Colour and constitution relationships in organic pigments : Part 6 Azonaphtharylamide pigments Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Robert M. Christie, Auteur ; M. Vincent, Auteur ; H. Y. Huang, Auteur ; H.-C. Chang, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 77-85 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cristallisation Diffractométrie de rayons X Encre d'imprimerie Pigments azoïques Pigments organiques Revêtements:Peinture Index. décimale : 667.2 Colorants et pigments Résumé : Colour and constitution relationships within a series of naphtholazo pigments have been established. The spectral properties of the pigments in solution correlate reasonably well with the results of optimised PPP-MO calculations, and the colouristic properties of the pigments in the solid and solution states show generally similar trends. Structure/property relationships, in terms of solvent resistance, lightfastness and thermal stability, have been established for the series of pigments in printing ink and industrial paint applications. X-ray powder diffraction studies demonstrate that the aqueous heat treatment used in the synthesis of the pigments provides enhanced crystallinity which generally leads in turn to improved colouristic and technical performance. Note de contenu : - Materials - Instrumental methods - PPP-MO calculation - Pigments from 2-naphthol - Pigments 2, 3 and 4 from naphthol AS coupling components - Printing ink and paint preparation - Assessment of application performance - Table 1 : Substituent pattern in naphtharylamide azo pigments 3 and 4 - Table 2 : Substituent pattern in naphthol AS coupling components - Table 3 : Selected FTIR stretching frequencies (cm-1) and electronic spectral data (for solutions in dimethylformamide/1.4 % acetic acid - Table 4 : Colour parameters for printing ink masstone drawdowns of pigment samples before (') and after heat treatment - Table 5 : Colour parameters for printing ink white reduction drawdowns of pigment samples before (') and after heat treatment - Table 6 : Overspray fastness (bleed into white oversprayed layer assessed as colour difference, 'E between the overpainted and white films) in thermosetting acrylic/melamine paints and heat stability (assesses as colour difference, 'E, between heated and unheated paint films) in air-drying alkyd paints - Table 7 : Lightfastness in printing ink and thermosetting acrylic paints assessed as colour difference, 'E, between exposed and unexposed samples DOI : 10.1007/BF02699618 En ligne : https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/BF02699618.pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=5399 [article]

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Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes. Part 1 : Application of spiroindolinonaphthoxazines as disperse dyes to polyester, nylon and acrylic fabrics / Shah M. Reduwan Billah in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 124, N° 4 (2008)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 124, N° 4 (2008) . - p. 223-228 Titre : Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes. Part 1 : Application of spiroindolinonaphthoxazines as disperse dyes to polyester, nylon and acrylic fabrics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shah M. Reduwan Billah, Auteur ; Renzo Shamey, Auteur ; Robert M. Christie, Auteur Année de publication : 2009 Article en page(s) : p. 223-228 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : 1,3,3-Trimethylspiroindoline-2,3'-3H-naphth[2,1-b][1,4]oxazine (1a) and 6'-piperidino-1,3,3-trimethylspiroindoline-2,3'-3H-naphth[2,1-b][1,4]oxazine (1b) were applied as disperse dyes to polyester, nylon and acrylic fabrics. Under optimised dyeing conditions, photochromic fabrics were produced which, on irradiation with ultraviolet or exposure to sunlight, turned blue (1a) or blueish-purple (1b). Dye 1a showed enhanced photochromic colour change performance compared with dye 1b. The photochromic colour build was highest on nylon and lowest on acrylic fabric. The colour change properties and the technical performance (wash fastness and photostability) of the photochromic fabrics were evaluated using specifically adapted colour measurement methods. The data were analysed in terms of variation of lightness, a*, b*, chroma, hue angle and D E, colour difference before and after exposure, and K/S curves as a function of irradiation time. The fabrics generally showed good wash fastness. Although the colour build-up decreased with exposure to the Xenotest fadeometer, some residual photochromism remained after prolonged exposure. DOI : 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2008.00145.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2008.00145.x/pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=3168 [article]

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Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes / Shah M. Reduwan Billah in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 124, N° 4 (2008)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 124, N° 4 (2008) . - p. 229-233 Titre : Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes : Part 2 : The effect of solvents on the colour change of photochromic textiles Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shah M. Reduwan Billah, Auteur ; Robert M. Christie, Auteur ; Keith M. Morgan, Auteur Année de publication : 2009 Article en page(s) : p. 229-233 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Polyester, acrylic and nylon textile substrates dyed with two spirooxazine dyes, 1,3,3-trimethyl-spiroindoline-2,3'-3H-naphth[2,1-b][1,4]oxazine (1a) and 6'-piperidino-1,3,3-trimethyl spiroindoline-2,3'-3H-naphth[2,1-b][1,4]oxazine (1b), exhibit significantly higher photochromic colour build-up when wet compared with after drying. A study of this phenomenon, extended beyond water to the influence of a series of selected organic solvents on photochromic behaviour, using colour measurement of the photochromic textiles under controlled ultraviolet irradiation conditions, is reported. The results of molecular modelling calculations (AM1 in water and PM5 in water) have been used as a means of interpreting the observed effects, in conjunction with qualitative arguments based on solvation and fibre swelling. DOI : 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2008.00146.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2008.00146.x/pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=3169 [article]

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Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes. Part 3: dyeing of wool with photochromic acid dyes / Shah M. Reduwan Billah in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 128, N° 6 (2012)  

[article]  inCOLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 128, N° 6 (2012) . - p. 488-492 Titre : Direct coloration of textiles with photochromic dyes. Part 3: dyeing of wool with photochromic acid dyes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Shah M. Reduwan Billah, Auteur ; Robert M. Christie, Auteur ; Renzo Shamey, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 488-492 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Laine Photochromisme Pigments à effets spéciaux Teinture -- Fibres textiles Index. décimale : 667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus Résumé : Wool dyed with two isomeric water-soluble spirooxazine-based photochromic acid dyes, which were specifically designed and synthesised for direct application to protein and polyamide substrates, showed reversible change from a pale yellowish colour to blue when exposed to sunlight or UV light. With the first dye, significantly higher photochromic colour change was obtained when the wool was bleached, a feature attributed to a more open fibre structure which may facilitate penetration of the non-planar dye anion and also the photocoloration reaction which requires a change in molecular geometry. Experimentation demonstrated that the optimum conditions for application of this dye to wool was from an aqueous dyebath at neutral pH and a temperature of 60 °C. An investigation using HPLC demonstrated that the dye was susceptible to decomposition in aqueous solution at higher temperatures and at lower pH values. The second dye was also applied to wool fabric to give a fabric with similar photochromic properties. The technical performance of the dyed fabrics, in terms of washfastness and photostability, was assessed. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Dyeing of wool fabric - Colour measurement - Study of the stability of dye 2 using high-performance liquid chromatography - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Dyeing of wool with photochromic acid dyes DOI : 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2012.00406.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2012.00406.x/pdf Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=16455 [article]

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Enhanced model for the diffusivity of a dye molecule into human hair fibre based on molecular modelling techniques / Olivier Morel in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 124, N° 5 (2008)  

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Ink-jet printing process for lyocell and cotton fibres. Part 2 : The relationship of colour strength and dye fixation to ink penetration / Robert M. Christie in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 126, N° 6 (2010)  

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Metal salt azo pigments / Robert M. Christie in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 124, N° 3 (2008)  

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Photochromatic acid dyes for leather / M. R. B. Shah in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CII, N° 7 (07/2007)  

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Photochromic dyeing / Shah M. Reduwan Billah in LEATHER INTERNATIONAL, Vol. 213, N° 4806 (01-02/2011)  

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Polychlorinated biphenyls in pigments : inadvertent production and environmental significance / Lisa Rodenburg in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 131, N° 5 (10/2015)  

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Textile applications of commercial photochromic dyes. Part 6 : photochromic polypropylene fibres / Anna F Little in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 132, N° 4 (08/2016)  

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Textile applications of photochromic dyes. Part 1 : establishment of a methodology for evaluation of photochromic textiles using traditional colour measurement instrumentation / Anna F Little in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 126, N° 3 (2010)  

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Textile applications of photochromic dyes. Part 2 : factors affecting the photocoloration of textiles screen-printed with commercial photochromic dyes / Anna F Little in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 126, N° 3 (2010)  

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Textile applications of photochromic dyes. Part 3 : factors affecting the technical performance of textiles screen-printed with commercial photochromic dyes as disperse dyes to polyester by exhaust dyeing / Anna F Little in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 127, N° 5 (2011)  

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Textile applications of photochromic dyes. Part 4 : application of commercial photochromic dyes as disperse dyes to polyester by exhaust dyeing / Mohanad Aldib in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 127, N° 5 (2011)  

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The clearing of dyed polyester. Part 1. A comparison of traditional reduction clearing with treatments using organic reducing agents / Anwar ul Aleem in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 132, N° 4 (08/2016)  

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