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Titre : Garment leather testing : Fastness requirements for nappa and suede garment leathers and common complaints Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Lange, Auteur Année de publication : 1993 Article en page(s) : p. 54-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuir -- Nettoyage
Cuir nappa
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Essais de résilience
Essais dynamiques
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Increasing demand for leather garments let the German leather industry and German leather garment industry trade associations to tackle the matter of quality standards as far back as 1978-80. Minimum performance values were tabulated by a leather garment trade group together with the West German Leather College (Westdeutsche Gerberschule). Initially these were consumer-requirement orientated with an evaluation of complaints in the areas of manufacture, use and care of leather garments taken into consideration. A review of technical feasibility in the manufacturing of the principal types of garment leathers and colours was employed in the formulation of the properties. Note de contenu : - Fundamental light fastness via the pickled pelt - wet blue route
- Nappa comes into the picture
- The 'nappa effect'
- Cleaning the garment
- The problems of washability
- Table 1 : Quality requirement
- Table 2 : Optional testsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F4qQDLuIlpSxW97vb8_KyVVgoMREMjMp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35179
in WORLD LEATHER > Vol. 6, N° 6 (10-11/1993) . - p. 54-56[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 008095 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
Titre : Handbook for shoe and leather processing : Leathers, tanning, fatliquoring, finishing, oiling, waterproofing, spotting, dyeing, cleaning, polishing, redressing, renovating - Chemicals and dyes - Cements and glues Type de document : texte imprimé Editeur : Read books Ltd Année de publication : 2013 Importance : 385 p. Présentation : ill. Format : 21 cm ISBN/ISSN/EAN : 978-1-4474-2202-0 Prix : 31 E Note générale : Glossaire - Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Ameublement
Bagages
Chaussures
Cuir d'ameublement
Cuirs et peaux
Cuirs et peaux -- Finition
Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Gants
Imperméabilisation
Maroquinerie
Produits de nourriture du cuir
Produits nettoyants
Tannage
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Note de contenu : - Leather crafting
- Preface
- 1. Introduction
- 2. Leathers
- 3. Leather tanning, fatliquoring, dyeing and finishing
- 4. Leather dyes and finishes (shoe dyes and finishes)
- 5. Suede dyes, cleaners, and finishes
- 6. Gabardine fabric shoes, sizings and finishes (cleaning an dyeing)
- 7. White shoe cleaners and finishes
- 8. Deglazing, washing, and preparation of leathers for dyeing
- 9. Satin shoes and dyes (cleaning and dyeing)
- 10. Dyeing and finishing of smooth leather sohes and leathers
- 11. Cleaning and dyeing of suede shoes and leathers
- 12. Color restoring preparations and processes
- 13. Patent leathers, cleaning, softening, dyeing, and finishing
- 14. Smooth leather cleaners and polishes
- 15. Gold and silver shoes and leathers
- 16. Novelty colors and finishes in shoes and leathers
- 17. Leather coats and jackets
- 18. Leather gloves
- 19. Leather accessories
- 20. Leather luggage
- 21. Leather furniture, upholstery, and trimming
- 22. Leather cements and glues
- 23. Removing spots and stains from leathers
- 24. Shoe and leather oils, greases, and waterproofingsPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36873 Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23177 675 HAN Monographie Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Documents numériques
Insights into the molecular composition of the skins and hides used in leather manufacture / Rafea Naffa in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIV, N° 1 (01/2019)
[article]
Titre : Insights into the molecular composition of the skins and hides used in leather manufacture Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rafea Naffa, Auteur ; Catherine Maidment, Auteur ; Geoff Holmes ; Gillian Norris Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 29-36 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse
Cuirs et peaux de bovins
Cuirs et peaux de chèvres
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Cuirs et peaux de moutons
Structure moléculaireIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Increasing demand for information about the effects of the beamhouse processes on animal skins and hides led to the need to determine the differences among different animal skins and hides at molecular level which results in significant changes in their strength. This is a comprehensive study of the molecular components of four animal skins commonly used to manufacture shoes, clothing and furniture to identify common indicators of skin strength. First, the strength of each species was assessed using tear strength and the denaturation temperature. Then the concentration of the following molecular compounds: amino acids, natural collagen crosslinks and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) were determined. Significant differences in their molecular compositions were found particularly the types and amount of the natural collagen crosslinks which are known to be essential for skin strength. We found that sheep skin contained the lowest collagen content and highest GAG concentrations compared to goat and deer skins and cow hide. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first time where the collagen crosslinks of skin and hide of different species are measured and compared. This study shows that different species have different underlying molecular composition of skins and hides resulting in strength differences. This understanding will help to modify the current leather processing protocols to produce stronger leather. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Chemicals & reagents - Preparation of skin samples - Skin thickness measurements - Tear strength of sheep, goat, deer skins and cow hide - Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) of sheep, goat, deer skins and cow hide - Amino acid extraction from sheep, goat, deer skins and cow hide - Derivatization of amino acids by 6-aminoquinolyl-N-hydroxysuccinimidyl carbamate - Separation of AQC deeivatized amino acids - Extraction and quantitation of glycosaminoglycans in skins
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Tear strength of sheep, goat, deer skins and cow hide - Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) of sheep, goat and deer skins and cow hide - Amino acid composition of sheep, goat and deer skins and cow hide - Collagen I/III ratio in sheep, goat and deer skins and and cow hide - Quantitation of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in sheep, goat and deer skins and cow hide - Analysis of crosslinks in sheep, goat and deer skins and cow hideEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EPPwJTQrMvg0M1XYcXbJjQzwk94mxEY7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31551
in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIV, N° 1 (01/2019) . - p. 29-36[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20508 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Production of titanium-tanned goat suede garment leathers / M. P. Swamy in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 66 (Année 1982)
[article]
Titre : Production of titanium-tanned goat suede garment leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. P. Swamy, Auteur ; R. Rajaraman, Auteur ; S. Bangaruswamy, Auteur ; J. B. Rao, Auteur Année de publication : 1982 Article en page(s) : p. 115-115 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux de chèvres
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Retannage
Syntans
Tanins végétaux
Tannage minéralTannage dans lequel interviennent différents minéraux. Le plus répandu est le tannage aux sels de chrome, mais aussi à l’aluminium
Travail de rivière (cuir)Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : One of the major areas of Leather research is the development of tanning processes using less or no chrome which is a problem ingredient in tannery effluents. Full chrome suede garment leathers are pro-duced by making use of chrome tanning agent for pretanning followed by vegetable tannin extracts and/or syntans as retanning agents. A process is developed using basic titanium sulphate* in the place of chrome along with syntans and/or vegetable tannins for retan¬ning, for the manufacture of goat suedes. The resultant leathers are found to possess sufficient nap and fullness. An added advantage with these titanium-tanned leathers is that pastel shades can be obtained. The basic titanium sulphate is employed as a pickling-cum-tanning agent making use of its inherent acidity. Note de contenu : - Raw material
- Unhairing and liming
- Deliming
- Pickling-cum-tanning
- Neutralisation and retanning
- Fatliquoring
- Mechanical operations
- DyeingEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jMOj82dHwIuz_fYcqRk-rxOZDTog9j7R/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34217
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 66 (Année 1982) . - p. 115-115[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 007129 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Relation between drape and mechanical properties of goat suede garment leathers / K. Krishnaraj in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 93, N° 1 (01-02/2009)
[article]
Titre : Relation between drape and mechanical properties of goat suede garment leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur Année de publication : 2009 Article en page(s) : p. 1-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Cuirs et peaux de chèvres
Cuirs et peaux de daims
Vêtements en cuirIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Understanding the properties of leathers associated with garment construction provides valuable inputs for the design and fabrication of leather garments. Drape is one such important property. In this study, drape coefficient and the number of nodes were measured for goat suede leathers from four different firms and compared with mechanical properties which influence garment construction, such as softness, flexural rigidity, initial tensile modulus, formability, weight and thickness. The mean drape coefficient ranges between 20.8 and 4.04 % and the number of nodes varies from 6 to 8 for the selected goad suede leathers from four different firms. Softness, flexural rigidity, formability, thickness and weight have been shown to influence the drape parameters such as drape coefficient and the number of nodes significantly. The results of this study can be used as a basic tool for leather selection to facilitate the design and construction of garments. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W9ztsfh3hbCp8_kvcJzD_tcjt79EgXS8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=4078
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 93, N° 1 (01-02/2009) . - p. 1-7[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 011127 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The effect of dye constitution on the wettability of chrome leather / D. E. Crack in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 58 (Année 1974)
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