[article]
Titre : |
How to support the skin's own protective strategies |
Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
Auteurs : |
Gabrielle Moro, Auteur |
Année de publication : |
2018 |
Article en page(s) : |
p. 105-108 |
Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
Catégories : |
Cosmétiques Film hydrolipidique (dermatologie)Le film hydrolipidique est un film protecteur recouvrant la totalité de la surface de l'épiderme humain. C'est une émulsion complexe formée de substances provenant de sécrétions (sueur, sébum...) et d'agrégats cellulaires kératinisés ou morts. Son pH est légèrement acide.
Ce film est à la base de la qualité de l'aspect extérieur de la peau puisqu'il la protège de plusieurs façons :
- Il participe à la constitution de la barrière cutanée (avec la couche cornée) qui s'oppose à la pénétration de substances étrangères,
- Il régule l'hydratation en maintenant les substances hygroscopiques (qui ont des affinités avec l'eau) dans les cellules cornées,
- Il lutte contre les agressions microbiennes en autorisant toutefois le développement de la flore normale. (Wikipedia) Peau -- Soins et hygiène
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Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
Résumé : |
Often described as the skin's barrier function, the epidermis is considered to be the first protection of our body against external factors. For a long time, the cornified layer, which is the upper layer of the epidermis, has been considered as the first line of defence of the skin. Although the cornified layer is the outer layer of the epidermis, it is no more considered as the outer layer of our skin. On its surface, a homemade biofilm actually ensures the first protection of our skin, this biofilm is called hydrolipidic film and hosts skin microbiota.
The hydrolipidic film (HLF) is a protective film that covers the entire surface of the skin. This is an emulsion of water and lipids which acts to lock in moisture and as a defence against non-resident bacteria. It mainly consists of perspiration, water, sebum, and lipids. Its alteration is characteristic of lipid dry skins or essential fatty acids deficient skins, which are literally stripped due to limited sebaceous gland excretions. In this case skin takes a reactive appearance, it can appear hot/burning, possibly itchy ; it shows signs of roughness and dullness. Ail these factors indicate loss of structural integrity. |
Note de contenu : |
- Factors that can impair the HLF are numerous
- A homemade protective biofilm with resident bacterial biofilm part of the HLF
- How to rebalance HLF ?
- How to rebalance skin microbiota ?
- FIGURES : 1. Visualisation of sebum production in green fluorescence by human sebocytes cultivated in dry skin model conditions, without and with 0.02 % Wakapamp for 8 days - 2. Variation of the fraction represented by squalene and was ester in sebum produced by human sebocytes cultivated in dry skin model conditions withou and with 0.02 % Wakapant for 8 days - 3. Visualisation of the improvement of satin aspect on dry skins treated with 0.1% Wakapamp twice daily for 2 weeks. Aspect of the facial skin before and after breatment with Wakapamp - 4. Variation of skin microbiota print of volunteers during a temporary period of stress and after 1 week treatment with 1% Actibiome - 5. In vivo benefits of 1% Actibiome after 1 week treatment versus placebo on skin beauty and skin health. Volunteer's self-evaluation using numeric scale *p=0.1 student test - ** p<0.05 student test
- TABLES : 1. Composition of the lipid part of hydrolipidic film - 2. Analysis of bacterial genus which are the more impacted by a transient period of stress, and the reversing effect of 1% Actibiome versus placebo after 1 week treatment - 3. Composition of Actibiome |
En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ejuu-gcCVHmjLDO9bQyzggblm2hGhlGq/view?usp=drive [...] |
Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30458 |
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 2 (04/2018) . - p. 105-108
[article]
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