| Titre : |
Is repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Thomas Hippe, Auteur ; Georg Knübel, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2018 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 2-9 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Agents de blanchiment
Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux décolorés
Cosmétiques
Essais dynamiques
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
With bright blond hair colors becoming more fashionable in recent years, prevention or even repair of hair damage by lightening has become a strong consumer need. Leading edge research of structural changes in keratin caused by strong oxidative stress has led to several approaches how to counteract this oxidative damage by ingredients capable to form bonds between adjacent keratin chains. An overview presents several ingredients used already in market products acting via different mode-of-actions of keratin bonding. For the class of organic di-acids experimental evidence is given, showing protection of keratin during oxidative damage perceivable also by consumers. Results of tensile strength evaluations as well as multiple grooming tests and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and finally test salon evaluations support the hypothesis that certain di-acids like maleic acid or succinic acid are able to bridge adjacent keratin chains via ionic interactions and/or hydrogen bonds. |
| Note de contenu : |
- E-MODULI AND BREAK STRESS : Results - Experimental procedure tensile strength
- HAIR BREAKAGE MEASUREMENT : Results - Experimental procedure hair breakage
- DIFFERENTIAL SCANNING CALORIMETRY (DSC) : Experimental procedure Differential Scanning Calorimetry
- TEST SALON EVALUATION
- FIGURES : 1. Schematic representation of a succinate salt bridge linking cationic amino acid side chains of two adjacent keratin chains (as working hypothesis) - 2. Schematic representation of the covalent bridge formed by Michael addition of maleic acid grops with cysteine residues of two neighboring keratin chains - 3. Change of E-moduli after 2x lightening with BlondMe Premier lift 9+ - 4. Break stress after 2x lightening with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 5. Hair breakage after lightening of hair strands with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex N° 1 - 6. Hair breakage after lightening of hair strands with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ plus Fibreplex N° 1, shampoo and Fibreplex N° 2 - 7. Denaturation temperature of hair after treatment with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 8. Denaturation enthalpy of hair after treatment with BlondMe Premium Lift 9+ - 9. Performance evaluation in the test salon |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mKbiIX-BJ4OYbc0fMKqZeRyPOxJQA02e/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30349 |
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 2-9
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Is repair of lightened hair feasible ? Myths and facts on different flair bonding treatments in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
