| Titre : |
Innovative approach to sustainable oil-based actives |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Anne Rossignol-Castera, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2018 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 39-41 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Antioxydants
Biomolécules actives
Cires végétales
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Extraction (chimie)
Huiles et graisses végétales
Jojoba et constituants
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Classical vegetable extracts are powders or hydro-alcoholic solutions and must be diluted or stabilised before they can be used in final cosmetic products. On the other hand, oil-based extracts are very easy to formulate in emulsions or even in anhydrous products. Moreover, the oil-based form is naturally bioavailable and has a high skin tolerance because lipidic biomolecules have an optimal affinity for, and transport through, the stratum corneum. Cosmetic formulations require oil-based ingredients with high quality, high stability and high activity. To achieve this challenge, a new generation of vegetable oil-based actives is obtained with oléo-éco-extraction. This new, intensified green process is founded on the knowledge of the solvent properties of vegetable oils and the theory of polar paradox of antioxidants that both explain the possibility to extract and organise apolar and move polar molecules in an oil. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Polar paradox and extractant properties of vegetable oils
- Oleo-extraction (OEE) for cosmetics actives
- Fig. 1. Polar paradox of antioxidants in emulsions (a & b) and in pure oils (c & d)
- Fig. 2. A polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (PG3DS) chemical structure
- Fig. 3. Small angle x-ray scattering graphs of jojoba liquid wax (non-polar oil) without and with aggregation due to polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (PG3DS) at a dose of 5,10, 15 and 20 % w/w in jojoba liquid was |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JQRZYbeCsT1izVpySZEx-ENCmxh82Lc6/view?usp=drive [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30210 |
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 1 (02/2018) . - p. 39-41
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Innovative approach to sustainable oil-based actives in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 1 (02/2018)
