| Titre : |
Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams |
| Type de document : |
document électronique |
| Auteurs : |
Claire Bordes, Auteur ; Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Auteur ; Myriam El Achak, Auteur ; Fabrice Pirot, Auteur ; Delphine Arquier, Auteur ; Géraldine Agusti, Auteur ; Yves Chevalier, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2021 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 432-445 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Caractérisation
Composés inorganiques
Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions pickering
Evaluation
Facteur de protection solaire
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Nanoparticules
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photoprotection
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
- Objective : Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO2 and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant-free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied.
- Methods : The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a ‘model’ oil phase, the C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica-coated TiO2 NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO2 NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant-free sunscreen emulsion.
- Results : Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled by the solid NPs content with respect to oil and the emulsification process. Hydrophilic TiO2 NPs did not allow the stabilization of emulsions. The substitution of TiO2 for ZnO up to 60–70 wt% in a 20/80 o/w emulsion was successfully performed. Finally, a ZnO/TiO2 NP mixture was tested as unique emulsifier system for the formulation of a sunscreen cream. Despite a lower viscosity, the obtained Pickering emulsion was stable and exhibited a photoprotective effect similar to the corresponding surfactant-based sunscreen cream with an in vitro SPF of about 45.
- Conclusion : Surfactant-free Pickering emulsions can be stabilized by the UV-filter nanoparticles for the manufacture of sunscreen products. |
| Note de contenu : |
- MATERIAL AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of Pickering emulsions - Preparation of commercial-like sunscreen formulations - Characterization of nanoparticle suspensions - Characterization of Pickering emulsions - Characterization of sunscreen formulations - In vitro SPF determination and
photostability evaluation
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Pickering emulsions - Pickering emulsions prepared with ZnO NPs - Preparation of Pickering emulsions - Pickering emulsions prepared with a mixture of ZnO and TiO2 NPs - Application of Pickering emulsions to the development of a surfactant-free sunscreen formulation
- Table 1 : Composition of the commercial-like sunscreen formulation
- Table 2 : Composition of the surfactant-free (SF) sunscreen formulation |
| DOI : |
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12709 |
| En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cn3OIlm6GeCvTgJ_-Q17I_S_nVoRFNNR/view?usp=shari [...] |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36677 |
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 432-445
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