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Biophotonics - A new field in efficacy testing UV-protection of skin and hair monitored by ICL-S and ICL-M / S. Bernard in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)
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Titre : Biophotonics - A new field in efficacy testing UV-protection of skin and hair monitored by ICL-S and ICL-M Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Bernard, Auteur ; M. Rohr, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 40-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimiluminescence
Mesure
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Photodétérioration
Photonique
Rayonnement ultraviolet -- Effets physiologiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Aim of this paper is to establish ICL-S (induced chemiluminescence of human skin) and ICL-H (induced chemiluminescence of human hair) as new approaches in the field of biophotonics for the determination of UV-induced skin and hair damage. Mainly UV-irradiation is capable of disturbing the balance (steady state equilibrium) between pro- and anti-oxi-dative reactions in the skin, resulting in and increased formation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which can thereby damage living cells. Part of the energy of these reactions is released in form of photons. This UV-induced, but chemically generated pho-ton emission (chemiluminescence) is correlated to extent of damage. UV-irradiation plays also a major role in photo-degradation of hair, decreasing its tensile strength and resulting in photo-bleaching. In randomised, in vivo studies on healthy volunteers, the short-term photo-protective effects of chemical UVA-filters are demonstrated by a significant decrease in ICL-S up to 70%. Independent of the amount of UVB-protection (SPF 7, 14) a decrease of about 65% is measured in comparison to the untreated area if 2% of butyl methoxy-dibenzoylmethane is added to the test formulation. In addition to the in-vivo measurements on volunteers ICL-H is performed on commercially available hair tresses. A significant increase of more than 50% of the spontaneous photon-emission of UV-irradiated (8 hours of simulated sun light) is measured in comparison to virgin hair (no UV/no treatment). Photo-protection of the tresses is realised by application of commercially available "leave on "and" rinse of" products, in the course of which the leave on product shows, the best performance. The rinse off product with a quartenized UV-absorber shows at least some UV-protection and for the rinse off product with a claimed UV-protection no significant change is measured. Furthermore the amount of damage after subsequent perm and bleach treatments is correlated with the photon emission of the tresses. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Photon detection - Test design-Skin - Test design-Hair
- RESULTS : UVA-protection of human skin - UV-protection on hair - Photon emission after perming and bleachingPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28185
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 40-45[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18183 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Compatibility testing of colored cosmetics – A new tool for objective testing near infrared remission spectroscopy (NIR-RS) / M. Rohr in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (01-02-03/2005)
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Titre : Compatibility testing of colored cosmetics – A new tool for objective testing near infrared remission spectroscopy (NIR-RS) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Rohr, Auteur ; Nikolai Ernst, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 11-15 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Effets physiologiques
Erythèmes
Produits de beauté
Spectroscopie infrarouge procheTags : 'NIR-RS' 'Spectroscopie infrarouge proche' UVB 'Compatibilité de la peau' Bioingénierie 'Réaction érythémateuse' 'Bande Rémission-absorption' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Previous methods for skin compatibility testing of colored cosmetics were limited by their ability to detect erythema reactions (reddening) underneath non-transparent products. The objective of this study is to present a new spectroscopic method to quantify reddening of human skin in vivo below colored cosmetics (e.g. hair dye, lipstick, makeup). The skin compatibility of non-transparent cosmetic products was determined by detection of a remission band in the near-infrared spectral region.
In this study a spectrophotometer with a short arc xenon lamp and a single monochromator on the excitation side as well as an emission monochromator with a near-infrared photodiode (NIR photodiode) on the detection side was used. To induce an erythema reaction different test areas were treated with a 1 molar solution of ammonia. Afterwards they were colored with a permanent oxidative hair dye or lipstick. Before the coloring procedure, the baseline state of the test areas was documented by measuring the remission in the range from 1050 nm to 1250 nm. This measurement was repeated after the erythema reaction had been covered by a colored cosmetic.
The results of data analysis revealed a remission band at approximately 1150 nm that was directly linked to the intensity of the erythema reaction. Non-visible reddening of the skin thus becomes measurable with this new method regardless of the optical properties of the product tested.
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in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (01-02-03/2005) . - p. 11-15[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 003886 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Influence of VIS/NIR radiation on the characteristics of sunscreens and human skin / M. Brandt in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)
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Titre : Influence of VIS/NIR radiation on the characteristics of sunscreens and human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Brandt, Auteur ; M. Rohr, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 15-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- Effet du rayonnement infrarouge
Peau -- Effet du rayonnement ultraviolet
Peau -- Effets du rayonnement solaire
Produits antisolairesTags : 'Colipa method' 'Sun protection factor (SPF) measurement' 'VIS/NIR radiation' MEDu Reflectance Transmission 'Spectral stability' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural sunlight has a high intensity in the visible and infrared spectral range previously ignored in methods used for determination of the sun protection factor. In these method the spectral range is defined only as the UVB/UVA range. The purpose of the studies presented below is to determine the influence of VIS/NIR radiation on the minimal erythemal dose of untreated skin and the sun protection factor as well as the spectral stability of sunscreen formulations. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10760
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 15-19[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 004651 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A multilayer skin activator with cross-talk function / Manuela Pflaumbaum in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014)
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Titre : A multilayer skin activator with cross-talk function Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manuela Pflaumbaum, Auteur ; Mike Farwick, Auteur ; Annika Schrader, Auteur ; Tim Köhler, Auteur ; Jennifer Schild, Auteur ; Matthias Mentel, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 69-72 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caprooyl-Phytosphingosine
Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Communication between cells within a certain skin layer, but also across various skin layers and between different skin cell types, is imperative for the proper function of skin. The unique short-chain ceramide caprooyl phytosphingosine (trade name Sphingokine NP) was found to stimulate the cross-talk between different cells throughout the skin, resulting in visibly plumped and reshaped skin. Note de contenu : - GENE EXPRESSION ANALYSIS : 1. In human proliferating epidermal keratinocytes (in votro) - 2. In human dermal fibroblasts (in vitro) - 3. In human apidocytes
- REDUCTION OF SKIN SAGGING IN THE CHIN AREA (IN VIVO)
- STRENGTHENING OF THE SKIN (IN VIVO)
- IMPROVEMENT OF WRINKLE (IN VIVO)
- REDUCTION OF UPPER ARM SKIN SAGGING (IN VIVO)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-u9fD8CM8L2pLKqWrje-OqxABmFaMV_h/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22271
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014) . - p. 69-72[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16618 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Plant-based cholesterol aids pro-ageing moisturisation / Annika Schrader in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 3 (06/2018)
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Titre : Plant-based cholesterol aids pro-ageing moisturisation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Annika Schrader, Auteur ; Joe San Filippo, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 77-79 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cholestérol
Cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Cholesterol and the skin
- Skin hydration through pro-ageing replenishment
- The animal-based challenge
- Vegetal-derived cholesterol
- Moisturisation momentum
- Fig. Illustrating the growing impact of plant-derived cholesterol (PhytoCol) in cosmeticsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SoIOBXCpjos_FbLoomdKBD3PUC3gldfL/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30776
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 3 (06/2018) . - p. 77-79[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20038 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Remission spectrophotometry and colorimetric studies of tannin and tamol / M. Brandt in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 3, N° 1 (01-02-03/2000)
PermalinkThe fusion of ancient wisdom with advanced technology / Yilei Fu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 1-2 (01-02/2019)
PermalinkTransdermal delivery of two antioxidants from different cosmetic formulations / S. Richert in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 25, N° 1/2 (02-03-04/2003)
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