| Titre : |
Vitamins and other "secondary actives" in Sun care products |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Thomas Rudolph, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2002 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 29-32 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Antioxydants
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Tests d'efficacité
Vitamines
|
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Today modern sun protection systems contain a number of active ingredients. Undoubtedly UV filters play the most important role in building up the UV protection shield. As "primary actives" they neutralize harmful UV light by the conversion of UV into harmless heat.
However UV filters cannot provide a 100% protection against all harmful UV/sun rays. There are still gaps where photons can pass unhindered through the layer of UV filters to trigger photoreactions on/in the skin. Once these photoreactions have occured there is a strong need to remove harmful photoproducts. This function is delivered by the group of "secondary actives". These are either direct classic antioxidants (vitamins C, E; polyphenols) or indirect antioxidants (chelating agents, amino acids, enzymes,...). All compounds have the common aim to reduce "oxidative stress" and fight "free radicals".
By contrast to UV filters the group of "secondary actives" shows little to no UV absorptivity. While UV filters are chemically inert and return to their ground states after absorption, "secondary actives" that act as classic antioxidants can irreversibly be consumed. The number of EU permitted organic UV filters is limited to 25. In comparison the group of potential "secondary actives" appears vague but nevertheless consists of numerous heterogenous compounds. The aim of this paper is to classify these compounds and look at some of those "secondary activies" that are currently used in market products. |
| Note de contenu : |
- Classic antioxidants
- "Indirect" antioxidants
- Efficacy testing
- FIGURES : 1. The formation of ROS (schematic) - 2. Classic antioxidants ant their mode of function (schematic) - 3. Vitamin E - formula structures - 4. Vitamin C - formula structures - 5. Polyphenol - α-glucosyl rutin - 6. Hydroperoxid formation (I-unsaturated lipid ; II - allyl radical ; III - peroxyl radical ; IV-hydroperoxide) |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28183 |
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002) . - p. 29-32
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Vitamins and other "secondary actives" in Sun care products in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 128, N° 6 (06/2002)
