Development of a powerful tool for investigation of the structure and functionality of the aqueous phase of cosmetics / Luigi Rigano in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013) . - p. 165-174 Titre : Development of a powerful tool for investigation of the structure and functionality of the aqueous phase of cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luigi Rigano, Auteur ; Giovanni Baratto, Auteur ; Alessandro Portolan, Auteur ; Alessandra Semenzato, Auteur ; Marisa Meloni, Auteur ; Adriana Bonfigli, Auteur ; Maurizio Sironi, Auteur ; Stefano Pieraccini, Auteur ; Nicola Lionetti, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 165-174 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Analyse Cosmétiques en phase aqueuse Etude in vitro Etude in vivo Molécules -- Modèles Osmose Protection cutanée Protéines -- Structure Stress -- Effets physiologiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The continuous research for new, high-performing ingredients is one of the most difficult hurdles facing cosmetic companies. Sometimes, a more in-depth investigation on the structures composing the apparently homogeneous phases of cosmetic preparations is required. This could allow a precise understanding of some hidden molecular behavior. This paper describes an innovative approach for the identification of skin-effective raw materials. It is based on the combined application of in silico analysis of molecular dynamics followed by a new in vitro model for studying the skin recovety from stress. This new pathway was adopted to better understand the molecular structure of the aqueous phase of cosmetics containing osmotic protectants and their mechanism of interaction with the protein moieties when some type of stress conditions is applied. Molecular dynamics is a method using the computer simulation of the physical movements of atoms and molecules in a specific aqueous environnent. The in vitro stressed skin cell test, which was successively applied to the aqueous solutions, revealed through specific biochemical markers the different effects of some water binding molecules on skin protection and recovery. This new approach was eventually con-firmed by in vivo study models. The testing protocol we applied was the one which is generally used for photo-aging studies: the microrelief and the elasticity of skin submitted to UV and surfactant stress were determined alter prolonged use of the product by volunteers and a microstructure evaluation of the dermoepidermal junction was carried out. The in vivo results obtained for some bio-physical parameters of the skin of aged volunteers were in agreement both with the theoretical (in silico) and biological (in vitro) findings. Moreover, the results show that, as a consequence of their chemical structures, osmolytes exhibit different aggregation states in aqueous solution and, when properly combined, show synergistic effects in the protection of the native folded structure of proteins. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19305 [article]

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