| Résumé : |
Natural waxes are synthesised biochemically by numerous plants and animals. Plants secrete waxes into and on the surface of their cuticles as a way to control evaporation, wettability and hydratation. As a result of climatic conditions, many plants in tropical regions also store waxes in membrane layers in the cuticula as an additional protection against evaporation of water. In many cases, waxes exude outward and form wax coatings, which can be up to several millimeters thick. The epicuticular waxes of plants are mixtures of substitutes long-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, containing alkyl esters, fatty acids, and primary and secondary alcohols.
Traditionally waxes are used as consistency modifiers, co-emulsifiers, and stabilisers particularly in W/O emulsions. It is also common to thicken and harden oleogels with them, which is a typical practice in the formulation of anhydrous systems such as stick preparations, balms, and butters.
Formulations with common waxes like beeswax are often perceived as heavy, dull sometimes sticky, and too occlusive. Therefore, in skin care, waxes were primarily used in cold and barrier creams and other rich W/O emulsions. But there are other waxes that do have totally different sensorial and functional properties. Besides providing stability, enhancing viscosity and consistency, they form flexible, protective layers and many of them have a superb, light, soft, and buttery skin feel. |
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Myrica fruit wax offers hair care benefits in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)
