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A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair / Franz J. Wortmann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 153-161 Titre : A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franz J. Wortmann, Auteur ; Gabriele Wortmann, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 153-161 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse de variance En statistique, l'analyse de la variance (terme souvent abrégé par le terme anglais ANOVA : ANalysis Of VAriance) est un ensemble de modèles statistiques utilisés pour vérifier si les moyennes des groupes proviennent d'une même population. Les groupes correspondent aux modalités d'une variable qualitative (p. ex. variable : traitement; modalités : programme d'entrainement sportif, suppléments alimentaires ; placebo) et les moyennes sont calculés à partir d'une variable continue (p. ex. gain musculaire). Ce test s'applique lorsque l'on mesure une ou plusieurs variables explicatives catégorielles (appelées alors facteurs de variabilité, leurs différentes modalités étant parfois appelées "niveaux") qui ont de l'influence sur la loi d'une variable continue à expliquer. On parle d'analyse à un facteur lorsque l'analyse porte sur un modèle décrit par un seul facteur de variabilité, d'analyse à deux facteurs ou d'analyse multifactorielle sinon. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux -- Variations saisonnières Cheveux humides Filaments Fibre de longueur infinie ou extrême comme celle qu'on trouve dans la soie à l'état naturel. Les fibres manufacturées sont extrudées en filaments qui sont transformés en fils continus, en fibres courtes ou en câbles. Justification de l'allégation Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Through the cooperation with an industrial partner, we gained a set of data for the tensile properties (wet) of human hair. The hair samples originated from a cross-over study with two groups of individuals, using for a topical application sequentially two products (A and B). Each phase of the study lasted 6 months. The phases of the study by chance covered first largely the winter and then the summer period. Initially, tensile variables were chosen, which not only reflect the mechanical properties of hair (modulus, break strain, and break stress) but which are also considered to have a good connection to practice-relevant hair properties. The initial analysis of the data showed that changes were observed for the variables due to the treatment phases. However, these were either small or difficult to interpret. - Methods : Against this background and using two-factor analysis of variance, we investigated the hypothesis that the tensile properties of hair (wet) may show significant seasonal changes. For this, we chose those two independent variables, which reflect the properties of the intermediate filaments (modulus) and the matrix (break strain) in the composite structure of the hair cortex. - Results : The results support the ‘seasonal’ hypothesis and clearly show that the variables show significant changes from Winter to Summer (modulus: 10% increase; break strain: 3% decrease). The seasonal effect was thus a major reason, why the first stage of the analysis of the data was inconclusive. - Conclusions : The tensile properties of the main morphological components of the cortex show distinct seasonal changes. Towards the summer, the hair becomes stiffer and more brittle. Furthermore, the results suggest that seasonal effects may need to be taken into account when conducting studies on lengths of hair grown during different seasons. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design and sets of hair samples - Hair fibre testing - Sample preparation and diameter determination - Tensile testing and choice of variables - Two-factor ANOVA - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Modulus (wet) - Break strain - Table 1 : Overall sample acquisition through the trial, arranged with respect to the two factors Phase (1, 2) and Treatment (A, B) - Table 2 : Results of the 2F-ANOVA for modulus - Table 3 : Results of the 2F-ANOVA for break strain DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12917 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UpsnG9LvkT28wvy8MirS8SkpQU2pHrtG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40735 [article]

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Anti-skin ageing activities of rice (Oryza sativa) bran soft and hard waxes in cultured skin cells / Puxvadee Chaikul in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 162-174 Titre : Anti-skin ageing activities of rice (Oryza sativa) bran soft and hard waxes in cultured skin cells Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Puxvadee Chaikul, Auteur ; Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul, Auteur ; Mattaka Khongkow, Auteur ; Angkana Jantimaporn, Auteur ; Nattaya Lourith, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 162-174 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cires végétales Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Riz et constituants Toxicologie cellulaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Rice (Oryza sativa) bran waxes, the by-products of rice bran oil manufacturing, are widely used as inactive components in several preparations. Nevertheless, the function of rice bran waxes against skin ageing has never been reported. This study aimed to investigate thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes, including rice bran soft (RBS) and hard (RBH) waxes, and the activities against skin ageing in cultured skin cells. - Methods : Thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes were analysed by differential scanning calorimetry and gas chromatography–mass spectrometry, respectively. The cytotoxicity assay of waxes was performed in B16F10 melanoma cells, human skin fibroblasts and co-culture cells of HaCaT cells and human skin fibroblasts. The non-cytotoxic concentrations of waxes were evaluated for their activities against skin ageing, including melanogenesis assay, antioxidant activity, collagen content analysis, matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assay and anti-inflammatory activity. - Results : Thermal property indicated the endotherm peaks with melting temperatures at 40.89 ± 0.27°C and 69.64 ± 0.34°C for RBS and RBH, respectively. The main fatty acids in RBS were oleic (31.68 ± 0.75%) and linoleic acids (27.19 ± 0.40%), whereas those in RBH were palmitic (36.24 ± 1.08%) and stearic acids (35.21 ± 4.51%). The cytotoxicity assay in single cells and co-culture cells showed the non-cytotoxicity of RBS (0.0001–1 mg/mL) and RBH (0.0001–0.1 mg/mL). The anti-skin ageing activities of 1 mg/mL RBS and 0.1 mg/mL RBH included the melanogenesis inhibition by suppression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 enzymes, the antioxidant activity by cellular protection against cell damage and cell death, the collagen stimulation, the matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 suppression and the anti-inflammation. - Conclusions : The study results suggest that RBS and RBH can potentially be applied as the functional ingredients in formulations against skin ageing as well as provide the superior benefit on skin moisturization. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals and reagents - Analysis of thermal property - Analysis of fatty acid profile - Analysis of toxicity - Analysis of anti-skin ageing activities - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Analysis of thermal property - Analysis of fatty acid profile - Analysis of cytotoxicity - Analysis of anti-skin ageing activities - Table 1 : Fatty acid profile and specification of rice bran soft (RBS) and hard (RBH) waxes DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12918 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wxMkjteSGxlEF1CgIq7X00o8o9pFRGVA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40905 [article]

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Mechanical epilation exerts complex biological effects on human hair follicles and perifollicular skin: An ex vivo study approach / Marta Bertolini in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 175-198 Titre : Mechanical epilation exerts complex biological effects on human hair follicles and perifollicular skin: An ex vivo study approach Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marta Bertolini, Auteur ; Jennifer Gherardini, Auteur ; Jérémy Chéret, Auteur ; Majid Alam, Auteur ; Mathias Sulk, Auteur ; Natalia V. Botchkareva, Auteur ; Tamas Biro, Auteur ; Wolfgang Funk, Auteur ; Frieder Grieshaber, Auteur ; Ralf Paus, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 175-198 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cuir chevelu Epilage Evaluation Inflammation Peau -- analyse Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Electrical epilation of unwanted hair is a widely used hair removal method, but it is largely unknown how this affects the biology of human hair follicles (HF) and perifollicular skin. Here, we have begun to explore how mechanical epilation changes selected key biological read-out parameters ex vivo within and around the pilosebaceous unit. - Methods : Human full-thickness scalp skin samples were epilated ex vivo using an electro-mechanical device, organ-cultured for up to 6 days in serum-free, supplemented medium, and assessed at different time points by quantitative (immuno-)histomorphometry for selected relevant read-out parameters in epilated and sham-epilated control samples. - Results : Epilation removed most of the hair shafts, often together with fragments of the outer and inner root sheath and hair matrix. This was associated with persistent focal thinning of the HF basal membrane, decreased melanin content of the residual HF epithelium, and increased HF keratinocyte apoptosis, including in the bulge, yet without affecting the number of cytokeratin 15+ HF epithelial stem cells. Sebocyte apoptosis in the peripheral zone was increased, albeit without visibly altering sebum production. Epilation transiently perturbed HF immune privilege, and increased the expression of ICAM-1 in the bulge and bulb mesenchyme, and the number of perifollicular MHC class II+ cells as well as mast cells around the distal epithelium and promoted mast cell degranulation around the suprabulbar and bulbar area. Moreover, compared to controls, several key players of neurogenic skin inflammation, itch, and/or thermosensation (TRPV1, TRPA1, NGF, and NKR1) were differentially expressed in post-epilation skin. - Conclusion : These data generated in denervated, organ-cultured human scalp skin demonstrate that epilation-induced mechanical HF trauma elicits surprisingly complex biological responses. These may contribute to the delayed re-growth of thinner and lighter hair shafts post-epilation and temporary post-epilation discomfort. Our findings also provide pointers regarding the development of topically applicable agents that minimize undesirable sequelae of epilation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Human samples - Human skin organ culture and ex vivo epilation - Ex vivo assessment of epilation - Histochemistry - Immunohistochemistry and immunofluorescence microscopy - Microscopy and quantitative (immuno-)histomorphometry - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Epilation ex vivo removes almost the entire hair shaft and induces morphological changes in the HF epithelium - Epilation reduces follicular melanin content and melanogenesis ex vivo - Epilation selectively promotes apoptosis in hair matrix and bulge epithelium but does not compromise the epithelial stem cell pool ex vivo - Epilation induces sebocyte apoptosis but does not appear to alter sebum production - Epilation ex vivo transiently perturbs HF immune privilege - Epilation induces perifollicular inflammation ex vivo - Epilation causes transient changes in the expression of key components of neurogenic skin inflammation, thermoregulation, itch, and/or pain in HFs ex vivo DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12923 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U7feLvo9Dv8VxiJ9cipcR_p0N6MbplFC/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40906 [article]

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Development and application of artificial intelligence-based facial skin image diagnosis system: Changes in facial skin characteristics with ageing in Korean women / Hyeokgon Park in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 199-208 Titre : Development and application of artificial intelligence-based facial skin image diagnosis system: Changes in facial skin characteristics with ageing in Korean women Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hyeokgon Park, Auteur ; Sae-ra Park, Auteur ; Sangran Lee, Auteur ; Joongwon Hwang, Auteur ; Myeongryeol Lee, Auteur ; Sue Im Jang, Auteur ; Yuchul Jung, Auteur ; Yeongmin Yeon, Auteur ; Nayoung Kang, Auteur ; Byung-Fhy Suh, Auteur ; Eunjoo Kim, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 199-208 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coréen(ne)s Diagnostic biologique Imagerie (technique) Intelligence artificielle Peau -- analyse Peau féminine Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To develop and validate an artificial intelligence (AI)-based diagnostic system for analysing facial skin images using expert judgements and explore its feasibility for skin ageing research, specifically by evaluating facial skin changes in Korean women of various ages. - Methods : Our AI-based facial skin diagnosis system (Dr. AMORE®) uses facial images of Korean women to analyse wrinkles, pigmentation, skin pores, and other skin red spots. The system is trained using clinical expert evaluations and deep learning. We assessed the system's precision and sensitivity by analysing the correlation between the diagnoses by the AI system and those of the experts. We used 120 images of Korean women aged 10–60 years to evaluate the changes in various facial skin characteristics with ageing. - Results : The precision and sensitivity of the developed system were excellent (>0.9%), and the diagnosis scores using the detected area and intensity of each item were correlated significantly higher with the visual evaluation results of the clinical experts (>0.8, p < 0.001). We also analysed facial images of Korean women aged 10–60 years to quantify changes in the scores of wrinkles, pigmentation, and skin pores with age. We identified the age group with the most significant changes as 20s to 30s. Analysis of the detailed skin characteristics of each item showed that wrinkles and pigmentation changed significantly in the 20s–30s, and skin pores increased significantly in the 10s–20s. There was no significant correlation with age or change according to the age group for skin red spots. - Conclusion : Developed AI-based facial skin diagnosis system can automatically diagnose skin conditions based on clinical expert judgement using only photographic images and analyse various items in detail, quantitatively, and visually. This AI system can provide new and useful approaches in research areas that require a lot of resources and different characterizations, such as the study of facial skin ageing. Note de contenu : - Collecting facial skin images - Image data preparation for AI training - Designing and training an AI skin diagnosis system - Validation of an AI skin diagnosis system - Evaluation of an AI skin diagnostic system's analysis of changes in skin ageing characteristics - Image and statistical analysis - Table 1 : Detailed diagnostic items of AI skin diagnosis system. - Table 2 : Age distribution of Korean female participants to analyse changes in skin ageing characteristics - Table 3 : Results of clinical expert evaluation of detection visualization images of AI skin diagnosis system - Table 4 : Correlation coefficients and significance probabilities of score results for each skin diagnosis item between the clinical experts and the AI skin diagnosis system - Table 5 : Changes in facial skin diagnostic scores according to age in Korean women, correlation coefficients and probability of significance with age, and probability of significant change from adjacent age groups - Table 6 : Changes in facial skin detailed diagnostic items according to age in Korean women, correlation coefficients and probability of significance with age, and probability of significant change from adjacent age groups DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12924 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/171UsYqi87UzenncJQUsWSAdMU-gNRqTY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40907 [article]

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Preparation and efficacy verification of three-dimensional printed partitioned multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask / Junli Chen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 209-227 Titre : Preparation and efficacy verification of three-dimensional printed partitioned multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Junli Chen, Auteur ; Chunqiao Liufu, Auteur ; Wenfang Zhang, Auteur ; Chunhong Luo, Auteur ; Kaixia Fu, Auteur ; Jianchang Lin, Auteur ; Jiawei Liang, Auteur ; Wei Yang, Auteur ; Fenglan Song, Auteur ; Fan Yang, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 209-227 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Impression tridimensionnelle Masques (cosmétique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A partition multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask conforming to facial skin characteristics was prepared using three-dimensional (3D) printing technology. - Methods : First, the hydrogel matrix and humectant of a 3D-printed gel for facial masks were screened, and three 3D-printed gels of arbutin, hexapeptide, and salicylic acid were prepared with whitening, wrinkle removal, and oil control functions, respectively. Skin irritation tests were performed on the gels. Physicochemical properties such as pH, heat and cold tolerance were evaluated. The efficacy of three 3D-printed gels was assessed by measuring melanin value, wrinkle depression score, and oil secretion. Finally, the facial mask model design and printing parameters were studied, and a partition multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask was printed in line with facial skin characteristics. - Results : For the 3D-printed facial mask, the gel prescription with 2% hydroxyethyl cellulose gel as matrix and 7% glycerol as humectant was the best. The prepared 3D-printed gel did not irritate the human skin, and its physicochemical properties met the Chinese facial mask industry standard (QB/T2872-2017). We showed that three types of 3D-printed gels containing arbutin, hexapeptide, and salicylic acid could be applied to the corresponding parts of the face to solve different problems, such as facial skin dullness, wrinkles, and oil secretion. Therefore, according to facial physiological characteristics, the facial mask model was designed for the forehead and nasolabial fold, which needs to be anti-wrinkled; the cheek, which needs to be whitened; and the nose and chin, which need oil control. The optimal printing parameters were 0.26 mm nozzle diameter, 90 mm/s printing speed, 30% filling density, 140% wire extrusion ratio, and 0.25 mm layer height. Different skin care effects can be achieved using a three-nozzle printer to print arbutin, hexapeptide, or salicylic acid gel on the mask's forehead and nasolabial fold, cheek, and nose and chin, respectively. - Conclusion : The 3D-printed partition multi-effect care gel facial mask prepared according to the skin features of different parts of the face can overcome the problem of the single skincare effect of the mass-produced facial masks. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Screening of facial mask gel matrix - Screening of humectants in facial mask formulations - Characterization of physicochemical properties of facial mask gel - Model design and 3D printing of partition care facial mask - Screening of facial mask 3D printing parameters - Skin irritation test of facial mask gel - Efficacy evaluation of facial mask gel - Whitening efficacy verification - Anti-wrinkle efficacy verification - Oil control efficacy verification - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Screening results of 3D facial mask gel matrix - Screening results of facial mask humectants - Test results of physicochemical properties of facial mask gel - Screening of 3D printing parameters and preparation of partition care facial mask - Skin irritation test results of facial mask gel - Efficacy evaluation results of facial mask gel DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12925 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JhXfAJ8dsok-vfL4v-OclUkrqUcN6xJ3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40908 [article]

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A novel Ca2+ double cone vector system to treat compromised skin / Julia Baumann in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 228-238 Titre : A novel Ca2+ double cone vector system to treat compromised skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Baumann, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Riikka Sacher, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 228-238 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Ions calcium Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration cutanée Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Stressed, damaged or very aged skin is predominantly characterized by a malfunctioning skin barrier. Underlying skin barrier malfunction is a reduced or defective calcium gradient in the epidermis. Consequently, replenishing the compromised skin's calcium stores with topical calcium could be a potential therapeutic approach. - Methods : We investigated the effect of our novel Ca2+ double cone vector system on improving the differentiation and barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), cultured at low basal calcium (0.3 mM) to represent very aged skin. Furthermore, in a randomized placebo-controlled clinical study the skin barrier of 20 healthy volunteers was challenged with 2% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) for 24 h under occlusion, following and/or prior to treatment with a gel containing 2% of our calcium vector system. - Results : Culture in reduced basal calcium conditions (0.3 mM) strongly impeded the formation of a dense stratified epidermis. The apical treatment with 1.1 mM CaCl2 was not able to restore a functional differentiation. Treatment with 0.1% of the Ca2+ delivery system rescued the differentiation process and resulted in a normal stratified epidermis. Clinically, application of the Ca2+ vector system prior to and following SLS stress prevented increases in skin irritation and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to placebo controls. Importantly, the treatment also significantly accelerated the recovery time following SLS stress. - Conclusion : With our novel Ca2+ vector system, we highlight the delivery of bioavailable Ca2+ ions into the skin as a new and successful approach to treat a damaged barrier present in stressed, aged or atopic skin. Note de contenu : - Materials - Preparation of the Ca2+ double cone vector system - Freeze-fracture transmission electron microscopy - RHE culture and treatment - Skin explant treatment - Histology and immunohistochemistry - Clinical study - Statistical analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12926 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kR-2OF76x2qJYxVded6VP9A2YofW6QGP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40909 [article]

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In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update / Gislàine C. Silva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 239-261 Titre : In vitro diffusion of plant phenolics through the skin: A review update Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gislàine C. Silva, Auteur ; Rodney A. F. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Carla B. G. Bottoli, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 239-261 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Administration par voie cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Diffusion (physique) Encapsulation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Phénols Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Excessive skin exposure to deleterious environmental variables results in inflammation as well as molecular and cellular impairments that compromise its functionality, aesthetic qualities, and overall well-being. The implementation of topical administration of antioxidants and other compounds as a method for preventing or reversing damage is a rational approach. Numerous phenolic compounds derived from plants have demonstrated capabilities such as scavenging free radicals and promoting tissue healing. However, the primary obstacle lies in effectively delivering these compounds to the specific place on the skin, and accurately forecasting their diffusion through the skin can assist in determining the most effective tactics. Hence, this article provides a comprehensive analysis of recent literature pertaining to the in vitro skin diffusion characteristics of plant phenolics. The aim is to gain a deeper understanding of their behaviour when present in various forms such as solutions, suspensions, and formulations. - Method : The data on plant extracts and isolated plant phenolic compounds in vitro skin diffusion assays published over the last six years were compiled and discussed. - Results : Even though the gold standard Franz diffusion cell is the most commonly used in the assessment of in vitro plant phenolic skin diffusion profiles, a plethora of skin models and assay conditions are reported for a variety of compounds and extracts in different vehicles. - Conclusion : The presence of numerous models and vehicles poses a challenge in creating correlations among the existing data on plant phenolic compounds. However, it is possible to draw some general conclusions regarding molecular, vehicle, and skin characteristics based on the gathered information. Note de contenu : - PLANT PHENOLICS PERMEATION PROFILE : Isolated compounds - Phenolic-rich plant extracts - Table 1 : Micro- and nano-encapsulated plant-derived phenolic compounds diffusion assays and results - Table 2 : Plant-derived phenolic compounds physical–chemical features and diffused amounts DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12927 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14y2jjLMSwGzxzO5wsSiAk_Lptn_B0n7S/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40910 [article]

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Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions / Alicia Roso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 262-283 Titre : Contribution of cosmetic ingredients and skin care textures to emotions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alicia Roso, Auteur ; Arnaud Aubert, Auteur ; Sophie Cambos, Auteur ; Francis Vial, Auteur ; Julia Schäfer, Auteur ; Marielle Belin, Auteur ; Damien Gabriel, Auteur ; Cécile Bize, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 262-283 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Emollients Emotions -- Mesure Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Polymères Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Emotions play an important role in consumers' perception of a sensory experience. The objective of this work was to investigate the ability of basic skin care formulas (i.e. without interference of odour, colour and packaging) and pillar ingredients (i.e. emollients and rheology modifiers) to elicit emotions. Another objective was to track, as claimed by neurocosmetics, the possible effect of formulas to trigger emotions from their direct biochemical effects on the skin. - Methods : Standard methodologies were mobilized, combining subjective and behavioural parameters (i.e. verbatim, prosody and gesture). Sense and Story methodology based on a collection of metaphoric verbatim was conducted after an induction phase. In addition, an experimental electrophysiological real-time visualization method was tried as a first experience in cosmetics. Finally, the ability of formulations with emotional benefits to modulate the release of neuropeptides by sensory neurons was evaluated on a 3D human model (epidermis co-cultured with sensory neurons). - Results : Skin care formulas were shown to play a role in emotional potential and the types of emotion generated, while changing one ingredient mostly acted on the intensity of the emotions. Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol, highlighting the interest of non-verbal approaches to detect subtle effects. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of skin care formulas with emotional potential on human skin sensory neuron activity. - Conclusion : Emotions were impacted by the change in ingredients and were better captured through non-verbal methods. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Emotions : Definition and characterization - Emotions and cosmetics, summary from formulations to ingredients - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Tested formulations and ingredients - Methodologies to characterize emotions - RESULTS : Effects of formulation textures - Effects of ingredients - DISCUSSION : Impact of formulation texture on emotions—Skin care universe - Influence of ingredients on emotions - Learning, methodological improvements and perspectives DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12928 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9HnfqWB1tJ7hIDhPN1nvB0fOl-PLmcK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40911 [article]

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Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women : A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study / Stéphanie Dudonné in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 284-296 Titre : Efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex in reducing hair loss and improving hair growth in healthy women : A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphanie Dudonné, Auteur ; Catherine Kern, Auteur ; Christine Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 284-296 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Dermo-pharmacie Justification de l'allégation Nutricosmétique Produits capillaires Sphingolipides Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair loss is a major source of psychological distress for affected people. Safe and natural ingredients are therefore needed to help reduce hair loss and stimulate hair growth. This pilot clinical study aimed at exploring the efficacy of a wheat polar lipid complex (WPLC, Ceramosidesâ„¢), containing sphingolipids and digalactosyl diglycerides, on hair characteristics improvement in women showing acute hair shedding. - Methods : Sixty-six women presenting a proportion of hair in the telogen phase greater than 15% were recruited and allocated to two groups, each including at least 10 postmenopausal women. For 84 days, participants consumed 30 mg/day of the WPLC supplement, or the placebo. Their hair characteristics were assessed after 56 and 84 days using phototrichogram evaluations of hairs in anagen/telogen phases, measuring hair shedding by a pull test, hair diameter and elongation at break point, hair growth and scalp sebum content. Hair density and volume were also clinically evaluated. All these parameters were also investigated in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. - Results : WPLC supplementation decreased telogen hair density/proportion while increasing the anagen hair density/proportion. These effects were significant compared with the placebo as early as within 56 days. It also led to reduced hair shedding upon pull test analyses. If no changes were evidenced in hair diameter, WPLC improved hair growth and resistance to breakage after 84 days. Clinical evaluations also showed hair density and volume improvement. Furthermore, supplementation decreased scalp sebum content in women with oily hair. The beneficial effects were also observed in the subgroup of postmenopausal women. Finally, WPLC supplementation improved participants' perception of their hair conditions. - Conclusion : Through a reducing effect on hair shedding and a stimulating effect on hair reappearance and growth, WPLC dietary supplementation was shown to significantly reduce hair loss in women. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Study design and ethics - Intervention - Participants - Compliance of participants to the treatment - Outcome assessment - Phototrichogram analyses - Pull test - Hair diameter and elongation - Hair growth - Scalp sebum content - Clinical evaluation - Self-assessment questionnaire - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Study participants - Effects of WPLC supplementation on telogen and anagen parameters - Effects of WPLC supplementation on the number of hairs tugged upon pull test - Effects of WPLC supplementation on hair characteristics and growth - Effects of WPLC supplementation on clinically evaluated hair improvement - Effects of WPLC supplementation on scalp sebum content - Effects of WPLC supplementation on hair characteristics of postmenopausal women - Self-assessment questionnaire DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12929 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oYLVEV9AjenjQJAjchRvNetRHbN6IkOX/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40912 [article]

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N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline – A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo / Chiara Knoblich in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 297-306 Titre : N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline – A potent skin anti-ageing active preventing advanced glycation end-product formation in vitro and ex vivo Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Chiara Knoblich, Auteur ; Katja Dunckelmann, Auteur ; Andrea Krüger, Auteur ; Thomas Küper, Auteur ; Thomas Blatt, Auteur ; Julia M. Weise, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 297-306 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Dermo-cosmétologie Glycation N-acétyl-L-hydroxyproline Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) represent a large group of compounds generated by a non-enzymatic reaction between reducing sugars and amino groups. The formation and accumulation of AGEs in the skin lead to protein crosslinking, dermal stiffening and yellowing, which ultimately contribute to cutaneous ageing. Amino acids have been described to exhibit anti-glycation effects. The objective of this study was to understand the inhibitory role of the amino acid derivative N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (NAHP) as an anti-glycation active for human skin. - Methods : A cell-free assay investigating the inhibition of glycation of serum albumin by NAHP was used to determine the capability of NAHP to decrease AGE formation. Also, by assessing the amount of the AGE N-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML) the anti-glycation abilities of NAHP were investigated utilizing dot blot analysis. The improvement of cell–matrix interaction by NAHP was determined in vitro using a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice (FPCL) dermis model. In skin biopsies, AGE autofluorescence was determined after treatment with NAHP and/or glucose ex vivo. - Results : NAHP significantly and dose-dependently inhibited levels of AGEs, which were induced by the glycation of a protein solution. This decrease could be visualized by showing that the brownish appearance as well as the AGE-specific fluorescence of glucose-treated samples were reduced after the application of increasing amounts of NAHP. Also, CML formation was dose-dependently inhibited by NAHP. In FPCLs, the contractile capacity of fibroblasts was significantly disturbed after glycation. This could be prevented by the addition of NAHP. Compared to glyoxal-treated samples, the co-application of NAHP significantly decreased the diameter as well as the weight of glycated FPCLs. Ex vivo application of glucose to skin explants showed a higher AGE fluorescence signal compared to control explants. Co-treatment with NAHP and glucose decreased the level of AGE fluorescence in comparison to glucose-treated explants. - Conclusion : These data provide clear evidence that under glycation stress conditions treatment with NAHP inhibited AGE formation in vitro and ex vivo and prevented the loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated dermis model. Thus, NAHP obviously provides a beneficial treatment option to counteract AGE-related changes in human skin such as dermal stiffening and yellowish skin appearance. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Prevention of AGE formation by NAHP in a cell-free in vitro assay - Inhibition of N-(carboxymethyl)lysine formation by NAHP using the dot blot technique - Determination of cell–matrix interaction in a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice - Ex vivo visualization of AGEs in skin biopsies - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Prevention of AGE formation by NAHP in a cell-free in vitro assay - Inhibition of CML formation by NAHP using the dot blot technique - Determination of cell–matrix interaction in a glycated fibroblast-populated collagen lattice - Ex vivo visualization of AGEs in skin biopsies DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12930 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vF_6aZA2RCxT_9ox8Z8TUSxRvd8PnVXf/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40913 [article]

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Anti-aging and rejuvenating effects and mechanism of Dead Sea water in skin / Xiaojuan Yan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 307-317 Titre : Anti-aging and rejuvenating effects and mechanism of Dead Sea water in skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Xiaojuan Yan, Auteur ; Xijun Bao, Auteur ; Shujun Cheng, Auteur ; Qian Ba, Auteur ; Junzhuang Chang, Auteur ; Kanghui Zhou, Auteur ; Xiufang Yan, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 307-317 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Eau de la Mer Morte Génétique Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : External environmental stressors and internal factors have a significant impact on the skin, causing inflammation, aging, reduced immunity and other adverse responses. Dead Sea Water (DSW) is well known for its dermatological benefits and has been widely used in dermatological therapy and skin care for conditions such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and photoaging. However, the anti-aging and rejuvenating effects of DSW and the related biological pathways involved, which have attracted increasing attention, are not fully understood. The aim of this study is to investigate the anti-aging and rejuvenating effects of DSW and to explore the related potential biological mechanisms of DSW under different environmental conditions. - Methods : The effects of DSW were investigated using in vitro human dermal cells and reconstructed skin models. Extracellular matrix (ECM) components and the morphological changes at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) in a 3D human skin model were evaluated after DSW treatment. RNA sequencing (RNA-seq) analysis of human dermal fibroblast models after DSW treatment was performed to explore the potential mechanisms of action of DSW under normal and UV stress conditions. - Results : The novel findings in this work present the biological functions of DSW, including procollagen-1 and elastin secretion, hemidesmosome increase and the epidermal basal cell regeneration. In addition, GO, KEGG and Reactome analyses reveal the activation of pathways related to ion transmembrane transporter activity, ECM component biosynthesis, senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), DNA repair and autophagy, which are associated with the anti-aging activities of DSW. - Conclusion : Our work provides new perspectives for understanding the anti-aging and rejuvenating effects and mechanisms of DSW. The new findings also provide a theoretical basis for the further development of age-related strategies. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) culture and cell viability assay - Determination of procollagen-1 and elastin in NHDFs 3D reconstructed full-thickness skin models culture Transmission electron microscope (TEM) - Immunohistochemistry (IHC) assay - Library construction and RNA sequencing of NHDFs under normal and UV conditions - Differentially expressed genes (DEGs) and pathway analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Effect of DSW on the increase in ECM components in NHDFs - Effect of DSW on improving DEJ in 3D skin model - DEGs in NHDFs and pathway enrichment analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12931 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b4HqYY7MXTBDinFjbzgjBmBTkUpHyVBv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40914 [article]

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A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis / Sarang Oh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 2 (04/2024) . - p. 318-332 Titre : A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sarang Oh, Auteur ; Jeehaeng Jeong, Auteur ; Myeongju Kim, Auteur ; Xiangji Jin, Auteur ; Shengdao Zheng, Auteur ; Yong-Min Kim, Auteur ; Tae-Hoo Yi, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 318-332 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Phaseolus angularis - Qu'est-ce que Phaseolus angularis ? : Les haricots Adzuki ou Aduki sont des légumineuses de couleur rouge, originaires du sud-est de l'Asie, principalement du Japon et de la Chine. En tant que légumineuses, elles sont riches en hydrates de carbone et en protéines. - Utilisation et avantages : Les haricots Adzuki séchés sont broyés, puis utilisés comme pâte à appliquer sur le visage, ce qui donne une action exfoliante douce à la peau. Il est utilisé comme ingrédient dans les masques pour le visage et le corps, le beurre corporel et les gommages nettoyants. (Lesielle) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of Phaseolus angularis seed extract cream - High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis - Immunohistochemistry staining with artificial skin model - Subjects and study design - Treatment - Manufacturing of the replica - Visual assessment - Photography - Non-invasive skin measurements - Moisturization assessment - Questionnaire study - Skin safety assessment - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Analysis of chemical contents of PASE cream - H&E and fillagrin staining - Visual evaluation and photography - Skin measurement and analysis - Moisturization assessment after treatment - Self-satisfaction assessment after treatment - Safety results DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12932 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z5E9rSPW16H0IEtVoaRGgUhChL6r46Mh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40915 [article]

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