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Deodorants and antiperspirants : New trends in their active agents and testing methods / Paweenuch Teerasumran in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 426-443 Titre : Deodorants and antiperspirants : New trends in their active agents and testing methods Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Paweenuch Teerasumran, Auteur ; Eirini Velliou, Auteur ; Shuo Bai, Auteur ; Qiong Cai, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 426-443 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiperspirants Cosmétiques Déodorants Dermo-cosmétologie Glandes sudoripares Les glandes sudoripares (sudorales) sont des annexes cutanées (organes microscopiques spécialisés) qui sécrètent la sueur et, pour certaines d'entre elles, des hormones ou phéromones. Histologiquement, il s'agit de glandes exocrines (épithéliums cubiques bistratifiés) dont la fonction première est la transpiration. Les deux types de glandes sudoripares chez l'humain Chez l'humain, on distingue deux sortes de glandes sudoripares qui diffèrent par leur origine embryologique, leurs fonctions, leurs répartitions et par la composition de la sueur qu'elles excrètent. Glandes sudoripares « eccrines » Les glandes sudoripares eccrines sont de loin les plus nombreuses, de trois à six millions, avec une densité moyenne de 200 glandes/cm2. Leur topographie est quasi-ubiquitaire, avec une répartition sur presque l'ensemble de la surface cutanée, avec une plus forte densité au niveau de la paume des mains, de la plante des pieds (où elles atteignent une densité maximale de 600 glandes/cm2) et sur le front. Ces glandes sont absentes au niveau des petites lèvres et du clitoris chez les femmes, et du gland chez l'homme. Glandes sudoripares « apocrines » Chez l'humain, ces glandes se trouvent sous les aisselles (dans l'organe axillaire), sur la peau autour de l'anus et autour des mamelons. À la différence des glandes eccrines, la répartition des glandes apocrines est donc plus restreinte. Par ailleurs, les glandes apocrines présentent une plus grande taille, leur canal excréteur s'abouche dans un follicule pileux par lequel leur sécrétion est déversée ; celle-ci contient des lipides et des phéromones, des composés transformés par le microbiote bactérien cutané, produisant l'odeur de transpiration. Odeur corporelle Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration cutanée Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Tests de sécurité Transpiration Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sweating is the human body's thermoregulation system but also results in unpleasant body odour which can diminish the self-confidence of people. There has been continued research in finding solutions to reduce both sweating and body odour. Sweating is a result of increased sweat flow and malodour results from certain bacteria and ecological factors such as eating habits. Research on deodorant development focuses on inhibiting the growth of malodour-forming bacteria using antimicrobial agents, whereas research on antiperspirant synthesis focuses on technologies reducing the sweat flow, which not only reduces body odour but also improves people's appearance. Antiperspirant's technology is based on the use of aluminium salts which can form a gel plug at sweat pores, obstructing the sweat fluid from arising onto the skin surface. In this paper, we perform a systematic review on the recent progress in the development of novel antiperspirant and deodorant active ingredients that are alcohol-free, paraben-free, and naturally derived. Several studies have been reported on the alternative class of actives that can potentially be used for antiperspirant and body odour treatment including deodorizing fabric, bacterial, and plant extracts. However, a significant challenge is to understand how the gel-plugs of antiperspirant actives are formed in sweat pores and how to deliver long-lasting antiperspirant and deodorant benefits. Note de contenu : - SWEAT GLANDS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS : Eccrine, apocrine, and apoeccrine glands - Hyperhidrosis - RESEARCH PROGRESS OF DEODORANTS : Body odour formation mechanism and its chemical composition - Deodorant's ingredients - Testing methodology to evaluate the efficiency of deodorant products - RESEARCH PROGRESS ON ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS AND COMPOSITION COMPONENTS : Aluminium salts and their mechanism of action - Testing methodologies for the evaluation of an antiperspirant's efficiency - ALTERNATIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR BODY ODOUR REDUCTION TREATMENTS : Naturally derived ingredients - Synthetic ingredients - CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING ALTERNATIVE DEODORANT AND ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS - CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING TESTING METHODS FOR ANTIPERSPIRANT PRODUCTS - Table 1 : Common ingredients in deodorant products, adapted from Martini 2020 - Table 2 : Common ingredients in antiperspirant formulation, adapted from Benohanian 2001, Jungermann 1974, and Martini 2020 DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12852 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BtLnpM3YrEWmMLQh8_-oQWOd1xrvX_Jd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39777 [article]

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Discrimination and authentication of lard blending with palm oil in cosmetic soap formulations / Atiqah Ab Aziz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 444-457 Titre : Discrimination and authentication of lard blending with palm oil in cosmetic soap formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Atiqah Ab Aziz, Auteur ; Muhamad Shirwan Abdullah Sani, Auteur ; Zalina Zakaria, Auteur ; Nor Kartini Abu Bakar, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 444-457 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides gras Adultérants Le terme adultérant désigne toute substance introduite ou maintenue frauduleusement dans un produit (aliments, carburants, produits chimiques, etc.) de façon à le vendre ou le donner pour ce qu'il n'est pas. Le produit est alors dit "adultéré". L’action d'adultérer est appelée adultération. Les adultérants sont généralement des substances peu onéreuses, voire invendables faute d'autorisation, utilisées délibérément par des commerçants ou industriels peu scrupuleux afin d'augmenter leurs bénéfices aux dépens des consommateurs ou utilisateurs. Les adultérants peuvent altérer les propriétés du produit ou même être toxiques. L'incorporation d'adultérants toxiques dans des aliments ou d'autres produits destinés à la consommation humaine est considérée comme un empoisonnement. Le terme « adultérant » doit être différencié de "contaminant", qui désigne une substance non désirée ayant été introduite accidentellement dans un produit. Les adultérants sont également distincts des additifs alimentaires dans la mesure où ils ne sont pas utilisés pour améliorer les propriétés d'un produit, mais au contraire les dégradent au nom d'intérêts financiers. Il existe néanmoins des cas spécifiques pour lesquels la distinction entre adultérant et additif alimentaire est particulièrement étroite, comme par exemple pour la chicorée, qui peut être ajoutée au café pour réduire son coût ou comme additif alimentaire pour donner un goût particulier. C'est également le cas de la craie qui a souvent été ajoutée aux farines pour réduire leur coût mais qui est maintenant utilisée en tant qu'additif alimentaire pour améliorer leur blancheur et leur teneur en calcium. Les adultérants utilisés dans les drogues illicites sont appelés produits de coupe, ou produits de coupage. (Wikipedia) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Huile de palme et constituants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Saindoux Le saindoux est un aliment obtenu en faisant fondre de la graisse de porc sans viande (panne et lard gras). Il est de couleur blanche, brillant, moelleux et soyeux, Il est très largement employé dans de nombreuses préparations culinaires comme les rillettes par exemple. Avec le beurre, les huiles, etc., c'est une matière grasse de cuisson en cuisine, en particulier dans les régions du Nord et de l'Est de la France, et en Allemagne. En Espagne, il s'utilise dans certaines recettes usuelles sucrées, comme l'ensaimada, les mantecados, la coca bamba ou les polvorones. Il est aussi utilisé pour la conservation des aliments cuits que l’on place dans des pots et sur lesquels se verse le saindoux chaud. Son point de fusion est assez élevé (au-dessus de 30 °C), de même que sa température critique (200 °C-210 °C). C'est ainsi qu'il peut être employé en friture et qu’il est particulièrement bien adapté aux cuissons longues. Assez pauvre en eau, on peut le conserver longtemps au sec et au frais, surtout si l'on prend la peine de le recuire régulièrement. Sa saveur typée et son astringence le limitent aujourd’hui aux préparations avec lesquelles il s'accommode le mieux : le porc, l'oignon et le chou (ou la choucroute), ou encore dans certaines pâtisseries. Il est régulièrement utilisé dans l'industrie pour les biscottes et les biscuits. Les bardes de saindoux qui restent au fond de la casserole, nommées grattons ou greubons, sont grillées, de forme et couleur champignonnesque, pour servir de gâteau apéritif servi avec tous les alcools. Comme la plupart des graisses animales, il contient beaucoup d'acides gras saturés. C'est également un aliment riche en énergie avec 896 kcal pour 100 grammes. Le saindoux est utilisé en boulangerie, pour confectionner la pâte brisée, la pâte à pâtés, les pies, les longues cuissons, les fritures, certaines pâtisseries, certains bonbons gélifiés, et même dans d'autres domaines, comme le cirage de chaussures. Mélangé à de la soude (hydroxyde de sodium), le saindoux (Adeps suillus selon la nomenclature internationale des ingrédients cosmétiques) sert de base à la fabrication de savons, sous la dénomination sodium lardate. (Wikipedia) Savon Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The employment of Fourier transforms infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy combined with chemometrics for determination and quantification of lard in a binary blend with palm oil in a cosmetic soap formulations. - Objective : To determine and quantify lard as an adulterant in a binary blend with palm oil in a cosmetic soap formulations by FT-IR and multivariate analysis. - Methods : Fatty acids in lard, palm oil and binary blends were extracted via liquid–liquid extraction and were subjected to FTIR spectrometry, combined with principal component analysis (PCA) and discriminant analysis (DA) for the classification of lard in cosmetic soap formulations via two DA models: Model A (percentage of lard in cosmetic soap) and Model B (porcine and non-porcine cosmetic soap). Linear regression (MLR), partial least square regression (PLS-R) and principal components regression (PCR) were used to assess the degree of adulteration of lard in the cosmetic soap. - Findings : The FTIR spectrum of palm oil slightly differed from that of lard at the wavenumber range of 1453 cm -1 and 1415 cm -1 in palm oil and lard, respectively, indicating the bending vibrations of CH2 and CH3 aliphatic groups and OH carboxyl group respectively. Both of the DA models could accurately classify 100% of cosmetic soap formulations. Nevertheless, less than 100% of verification value was obtained when it was further used to predict the unknown cosmetic soap sample suspected of containing lard or a different percentage of lard. The PCA for Model A and Model B explained a similar cumulative variability (CV) of 92.86% for the whole dataset. MLR and PCR showed the highest determination coefficient (R2) of 0.996, and the lowest relative standard error (RSE) and mean square error (MSE), indicating that both regression models were effective in quantifying the lard adulterant in cosmetic soap. - Conclusion : FTIR spectroscopy coupled with chemometrics with DA, PCA and MLR or PCR can be used to analyse the presence of lard and quantify its percentage in cosmetic soap formulations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS - METHODS : Preparation of lard - Preparation of cosmetic soap - Calibration and validation sample - Fatty acid extraction - ATR FT-IR spectral acquisition - Chemometrics - RESULTS & DISCUSSION : Authenticating lard adulterant in soap - Apportionment of wavenumber contributing to lard adulteration in soap - Quantification of lard adulterant in soap - Table 1 : Cosmetic soap formulation using palm oil and blending mixture of lard - Table 2 : Classification matrix of training, validation, testing and verification datasets by discriminant analysis (DA) - Table 3 : FTIR frequency range and functional groups obtained from absorption spectra in extracted fatty acid derived from palm oil - Table 4 : FTIR frequency range and functional groups obtained from absorption spectra in extracted fatty acid derived from lard - Table 5 : Regression models to quantify the percentage of lard adulterant in cosmetic soap - Table 6 : Quantification of lard adulterant in known formulated cosmetic soap and cross-validation dataset DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12854 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10XUw_jJEyG_Yer7ck-bWt4Ru5Dc2y3Q7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39875 [article]

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Physiological benefits associated with facial skincare: Well-being from emotional perception to neuromodulation in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 458-469 Titre : Physiological benefits associated with facial skincare: Well-being from emotional perception to neuromodulation Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 458-469 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bien-être Cosmétiques Mesure Neuromodulation Le mot neuromodulation a un sens différent en neuroscience et en médecine. - En neuroscience : Dans ce domaine, la neuromodulation est le processus par lequel plusieurs classes de neurotransmetteurs du système nerveux régulent plusieurs populations de neurones. À l'opposé de la transmission synaptique, dans laquelle un neurone présynaptique influence directement un pair postsynaptique, les transmetteurs neuromodulateurs sécrétés par un groupe restreint de neurones se diffusent à travers le système nerveux, ayant un impact sur de multiples neurones. Parmi les neuromodulateurs on trouve par exemple la dopamine, la sérotonine, l'acétylcholine, et l'histamine, mais aussi bien d'autres. (Wikipedia) Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This study aimed to demonstrate the specific nature of well-being induced by a facial skincare by deciphering its physiological and psychological impacts out of a therapeutic context. - Methods : Objective and subjective evaluations were performed on two groups of healthy participants. One group of 32 participants received 1-h facial skincare, while the second group of 31 participants were subjected to a resting condition during the same period. Electroencephalography, electrocardiography, electromyography, and respiratory rate measurements were assessed before and after both experimental conditions. Prosody and semantic analyses were also performed to evaluate the emotional perception in both groups. - Results : Physiological relaxation was observed after both experimental sessions; however, the effect was higher after the facial skincare. The cerebral, cardiac, respiratory, and muscular relaxation induced by facial skincare was 42%, 13%, 12%, and 17% higher, respectively, than that induced by the resting condition. In addition, non-verbal and verbal assessments showed that positive emotions were more markedly associated with the perception of facial skincare. - Conclusion : The comparison between parameters recorded after a rest period allowed us to distinguish the physiological and psychological signature of facial skincare. Moreover, our results suggest an involvement of positive emotions in the physiological relaxation enhancement. All these observations contribute to the very scarce data available on the specific profile of well-being associated with facial skincare. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Participants - Experimental sessions - Physiological parameters - Psychometric parameters - Statistics - RESULTS : Objective dimension and physiological parameters - Subjective dimension and verbal/non-verbal parameters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12855 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rbuqWBTgJWIrqqOOs_YkWzHT0iwX4UWU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39876 [article]

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The characterization of Pluronic P123 micelles in the presence of sunscreen agents in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 470-479 Titre : The characterization of Pluronic P123 micelles in the presence of sunscreen agents Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 470-479 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Diffusion de neutrons aux petits angles La diffusion de neutrons aux petits angles (DNPA) permet de sonder la matière aux échelles spatiales allant de 0.5 et 50 nm en déterminant les grandeurs moyennes qui caractérisent la taille et la forme des objets ainsi que leurs interactions. (https://www.neutron-sciences.org) Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration cutanée Produits antisolaires Surfactants Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vectorisation Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The triblock copolymer Pluronic® is widely used in the personal care industry, including sun protection, for its film-forming and solubilization capabilities. In this study, the effect of three commonly used organic UV filters (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate [EMC], ethylhexyl triazone [EHT], and avobenzone [AVB]) on the structure of Pluronic P123 micelles was investigated. - Methods : The Pluronic P123 micelle structure has been investigated using dynamic surface tension, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and small-angle neutron scattering (SANS). - Results : Dynamic surface tension results show strong interactions between the UV filters and Pluronic® evident by sharp changes in the surface activity of the latter. The NMR results have revealed the creation of a hydrophobic microenvironment special to the Pluronic PPO core group in the presence of UV filters. Some interaction with the hydrophilic EO was also recorded, albeit weaker. This is further confirmed by SANS, where the Pluronic P123 micelles interacted with varying strengths with the UV filters, resulting in sharp changes in their size and shape. - Conclusions : We have demonstrated the sensitivity of the Pluronic P123 micelles to the presence of various UVA/B filters. The micelles shape varied from spherical to cylindrical as the concentration and type of the UV filters were varied. These variations in the shape are expected to have a significant effect on the sun protection factor (SPF), as it affects the solubilization of the UV filters within a formulation in addition to the formulations' rheological profile and film-forming behaviour. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS - METHODS : Preparation of Pluronic- UV filters solutions - Tensiometry - Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) - Small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Dynamic surface tension (DST) - Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) - Small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) - Table 1 : SANS fitting parameters from P123 micelles (5 wt%) and EMC at different concentrations, in 10 wt% d6-ethanol and D2O, at 25°C - Table 2 : SANS fitting parameters from P123 micelles (5 wt%) and EHT at different concentrations, in 10 wt% d6-ethanol and D2O, at 25°C DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12856 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wdAZR7CDALEhDuF0wkFrCPffAYeR-o2E/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39877 [article]

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Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance / Emilie Yokoyama in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 480-487 Titre : Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Emilie Yokoyama, Auteur ; Ghislain Francois, Auteur ; Margalith Harrar, Auteur ; Chafik Bachatene, Auteur ; Kumiko Udodaira, Auteur ; Solène Trevisan, Auteur ; Alexandre Nicolas, Auteur ; Damien Velleman, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 480-487 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillance (optique) -- Mesure Cosmétiques Couleur Evaluation Imagerie numérique Justification de l'allégation Maquillage Méthodologie Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform. - Methods : We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers. - Results : Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison. - Conclusion : As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Methodology - Subjects - Makeup application - Video and picture recording - Online evaluation system - Raters - Test flow - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : User interface DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12857 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Rs4ZcqjTn2cIyKDm5Zzc_Py_Jx0nU4a/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39878 [article]

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Reduction of senescence-associated secretory phenotype and exosome-shuttled miRNAs by Haritaki fruit extract in senescent dermal fibroblasts / Patrick Bogdanowicz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 488-499 Titre : Reduction of senescence-associated secretory phenotype and exosome-shuttled miRNAs by Haritaki fruit extract in senescent dermal fibroblasts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Patrick Bogdanowicz, Auteur ; Nicolas Roullet, Auteur ; Paul Bensadoun, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Jean-Marc Lemaitre, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 488-499 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides ribonucléique Antiâge Cellules -- Interaction Dermo-cosmétologie Epigénétique L'épigénétique (mot-valise de "épigenèse" et "génétique") est la discipline de la biologie qui étudie la nature des mécanismes modifiant de manière réversible, transmissible (lors des divisions cellulaires) et adaptative l'expression des gènes sans en changer la séquence nucléotidique (ADN) "Alors que la génétique correspond à l'étude des gènes, l'épigénétique s’intéresse à une "couche" d’informations complémentaires qui définit comment ces gènes vont être utilisés par une cellule ou… ne pas l'être". "C'est un concept qui dément en partie la "fatalité" des gènes". Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sécrétome Le terme "sécrétome" ou "sécrétomique" est utilisé pour décrire l’étude globale de l’ensemble des protéines sécrétées par une cellule, un tissu ou un organisme. Il représente une classe importante de protéines contrôlant une multitude de processus biologiques et physiologiques. Différentes voies de sécrétion sont impliquées dans le relargage de ces protéines. Enfin, il est une source potentielle appropriée pour la recherche de nouvelles cibles thérapeutiques ou de candidats biomarqueurs. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Skin ageing is linked to the accumulation of senescent cells and a “senescence-associated secretory phenotype” (SASP). SASP factors include chemokines, cytokines, and small extracellular vesicles (EVs) containing miRNAs. We characterized SASP profile markers in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and evaluated the effect of Haritaki fruit extract on these senescence markers. Methods : Senescence was induced in HDFs by ionizing radiation (X ray), followed by 14 days of culture. Parallel incubations included fibroblasts treated for 12 days with 10 or 100 μg/mL Haritaki (a standardized extract of Terminalia chebula fruit). Senescence was assessed on Day 14 according to cell morphology, β-galactosidase activity, RT-qPCR measurement of SASP genes, as well as semi-quantitative (RT-qPCR) expression of miRNAs contained in EVs isolated from the medium. The size and distribution of EVs were measured by Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis. Results : Human dermal fibroblasts exhibited a senescent phenotype 14 days after ionizing-radiation, demonstrated by a flattened and irregular shape, increased β-galactosidase activity and over-expression of SASP genes. CSF3, CXCL1, IL1β, IL6 and IL8 genes were increased by 1492%, 1041%, 343%, 478%, 2960% and 293%, respectively. The cell cycle inhibitor, CDKN1A, was increased by 357%, while COL1A1, was decreased by 56% and MMP1 was increased by 293%. NTA analysis of the EVs size distribution indicated a mix of exosomes (45–100 nm) and microvesicles (100-405 nm). miRNA expression in EVs was increased in senescent fibroblasts. miR 29a-3p, miR 30a-3p, miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p and miR 186-5p were increased in senescent HDF by 4.17-, 2.43-, 1.17-, 2.01, 12.5-fold, respectively. Incubation of senescent fibroblasts with Haritaki extract strongly decreased SASP mRNA levels and miRNA expression in EVs. Conclusion : Haritaki strongly reduced SASP expression and EV-shuttled miRNAs in senescent fibroblasts. These results indicate that Haritaki has strong senomorphic properties and may be a promising ingredient for the development of new anti-ageing dermo-cosmetic products by inhibiting deleterious effects of senescent cells. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Compound - Fibroblast culture and induction of senescence - SA β-Galactosidase staining - Senescent phenotype analysis of fibroblasts - Isolation of extracellular vesicles (EVs) - Nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA) - Semi-quantification of miRNA contained in EVs - Data analyses - RESULTS : Induction of senescence in dermal fibroblasts - Effect of Haritaki on SASP expression - Characterization of extracellular vesicles - Effect of Haritaki on EV-shuttled miRs in senescent fibroblasts DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12858 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vLXeSFUIVzQU8gzpzjQkMcKMhusQYbKo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39879 [article]

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Study for skin gloss perception using computer modulation and frequency separation on surface reflection in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 500-511 Titre : Study for skin gloss perception using computer modulation and frequency separation on surface reflection Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 500-511 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Analyse des données Brillance (optique) Clarté de la peau Evaluation visuelle Modèles numériques Peau -- analyse Peau -- Perception visuelle Réflectance Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin gloss is a parameter of beauty and health and is used to evaluate the efficacy of makeup or skin care products. Skin gloss is a perception-based characteristic, which yet needs to be evaluated quantitatively and objectively. This study aimed to investigate the factors affecting the perception of matte, glossiness and greasiness on Korean women's skin, focusing on the effect of surface reflection. - Methods : In this study, a visual evaluation of skin gloss was performed using modulated images that combined facial reference (normal) images with images characterized by 64 different levels of surface reflection to investigate factors that might affect the perception of matte, glossy and greasy skin. Fifteen participants classified the respective images into three categories (matte, glossy and greasy), and the intensity of each image was rated using a three-point scale (weak, moderate or strong). A multinomial logistic regression analysis was performed using 960 data points (n = 64 × 15). A high-frequency average + 1 standard deviation (SD = 4) was set as the criterion for a highly glossy object. - Results : A significant difference was found between the three categories considering four parameters: low-frequency mean (LFM) and SD (LFSD) and high-frequency mean (HFM) and SD (HFSD). The results of the multinomial logistic regression analysis showed that LFM and HFSD were significant influencing factors for perceiving matte, glossiness and greasiness. As the LFM and HFSD of the images increased, perception changed from matte, to glossy and greasy. Further, the total number and total area of highly glossy objects were significantly different among the three categories. - Conclusion : We identified four different factors related to perceiving matte, glossiness and greasiness on the faces of Korean women, including the LFM and HFSD of surface reflection, as well as the number of highly glossy objects and the area of surface reflection. Furthermore, we identified evenness of shine as a key factor for the perception of greasiness. These parameters could be useful for distinguishing skin gloss and for a quantitative evaluation of greasiness. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ethical considerations - Stimuli image preparation - Image analysis - Questionnaire assessment - Data analysis - RESULTS : Raw low or high spatial frequency mean and SD of surface reflection - Comparison of LFM, LFSD, HFM and HFSD by categories - Prediction of skin gloss categories - Number and total area of highly glossy objects - Table 1 : The characteristic description of applied products - Table 2 : Mean and standard deviation of low- and high-frequency images - Table 3 : Comparison of results among intensities of the categories - Table 4 : Goodness-of-fit (Pearson chi-square p-value) and Nagelkerke's pseudo R2 - Table 5 : Results of the multinomial logistic regression analysis - Table 6 : Results of the prediction of categories using the multinomial logistic regression - Table 7 : Results of the multinomial logistic regression analysis of high-glossy objects (HG) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12859 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pSqV2VLvO8JldV45hw1dXEwrDk8up4at/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39880 [article]

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A simple and reliable isocratic high-performance chromatographic assay for the simultaneous determination of hydrophilic benzophenone-4 and lipophilic octocrylene in sunscreens / Patrick Pan in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 512-523 Titre : A simple and reliable isocratic high-performance chromatographic assay for the simultaneous determination of hydrophilic benzophenone-4 and lipophilic octocrylene in sunscreens Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Patrick Pan, Auteur ; Darren Svirskis, Auteur ; Geoffrey I. N. Waterhouse, Auteur ; Zimei Wu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 512-523 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Analyse Ingrédients cosmétiques Justification de l'allégation Photoprotection Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This work aimed to develop a simple HPLC method for the simultaneous quantitative determination of the ultraviolet (UV) filters, hydrophilic benzophenone-4 and lipophilic octocrylene, in the presence of three other commonly used UV filters, avobenzone, octisalate and homosalate. - Methods : Reverse-phased HPLC was performed on a C18 column. A scouting gradient was initially used to determine the approximate mobile phase composition required for efficient analyte elution and separation before further optimization. The assay was validated with regard to specificity, linearity, intra- and inter-day accuracy and precision, limits of detection and limits of quantification. An ultrasound dispersion extraction method for the UV filters from a commercial sunscreen was developed, and the extraction efficiencies from spiked samples were calculated. - Results : An acetonitrile-methanol-water mixture (20:67:13, v/v/v), where the water component contained 0.2% trifluoroacetic acid (v/v), was found to be the optimal mobile phase at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. The assay was linear between 1.0–100 μg/mL for both benzophenone-4 and octocrylene (both correlation coefficients were above 0.999). There was no interference from the excipients of the sunscreen nor from the three other UV filters. The intra- and inter-day accuracy was between 90.0–104.6% for both analytes. Extraction recoveries from a spiked commercial sunscreen were between 95.4 ± 2.1% to 98.5 ± 2.1% for benzophenone-4, and between 87.3 ± 2.3% and 98.9 ± 3.1% for octocrylene. All validation parameters were within the acceptance criteria set out in the International Council for Harmonization (ICH) guidelines. The HPLC assay showed the extracted quantities of benzophenone-4 and octocrylene from the commercial sunscreen closely matched claimed quantities. - Conclusion : The developed isocratic HPLC method was suitable for simultaneously determining the hydrophilic benzophenone-4 and lipophilic octocrylene in the presence of other commonly used UV filters. Additionally, the extraction method was simple and effective for accurately quantifying the UV filters in a commercial sunscreen. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals and instrumentation - Methods to extract the UV filters from sunscreens - Chromatographic conditions and optimization - Validation of HPLC conditions - RESULTS : Chromatographic conditions and mobile phase development - Extraction efficiency - Validation of assay - UV filter extraction from sunscreen sample - Table 1 : Scouting gradient average retention times (Tr(avg)) of each gradient system and estimated mobile phase compositions required for separation of benzophenone-4 (BNZ4) and octocrylene (OC) in isocratic conditions - Table 2 : Recovery of UV filters, benzophenone-4 (BNZ4) and octocrylene (OC) from a commercial sunscreen sample. Data are means ± SD (n = 3) - Table 3 : Linear regression parameters for benzophenone-4 (BNZ4) and octocrylene (OC). Data are means ± SD (n = 3) - Table 4 : Intra- and inter-day accuracy (expressed as recovery %) and precision of benzophenone-4 (BNZ4) and octocrylene (OC). Data are means ± SD (n = 3) - Table 5 : Extraction recoveries of UV filters from a commercial sunscreen sample. Data are means ± SD (n = 3) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12860 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1emWozNXtGxfEiY3jL6lcalDYpM4zcDim/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39881 [article]

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Investigating the effect of the pH of foot care product formulations on pedal skin in diabetic and non-diabetic subjects / Andreas Fitzner in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 524-538 Titre : Investigating the effect of the pH of foot care product formulations on pedal skin in diabetic and non-diabetic subjects Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Andreas Fitzner, Auteur ; Katrin Knuhr, Auteur ; Marianne Brandt, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 524-538 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Humidité Justification de l'allégation Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Pieds -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The use of skin care formulations with acidic pHs is seen as an effective method to maintain the acidic mantel of the skin; however, because the skin pH varies depending on the area of the body and as data are lacking for the skin pH of the feet, there was a need to examine whether this assumption holds true for skin care formulations designed for the foot. Thus, three foot creams formulated with a neutral, acidic or alkaline pH were compared with each other as well as to an untreated control group in order to analyse their impact on skin pH, hydration and general skin condition. - Methods : An exploratory clinical investigation with 60 enrolled subjects, half of whom had a diagnosis of diabetes (type 1 or type 2), was undertaken. The investigation followed a randomized, double-blind, balanced incomplete block design (BIBD) including intra-individual comparison (before and after treatment). Evaluations of skin pH and hydration were carried out using a pH meter and a Corneometer respectively. Objective evaluation of skin condition for efficacy assessment was performed by a trained grader. For tolerability evaluation, objective and subjective dermatological assessments were performed. - Results : At the end of the treatment period, the skin pH was largely unchanged at five out of six of the test areas, with the mean value for each treatment group using test products showing similar fluctuations as the untreated control group. Furthermore, the skin condition parameters studied all improved by a comparable magnitude for each of the treatment groups using the test products, whereas the untreated control group experienced a worsening of the skin condition parameters. - Conclusions : The results of this investigation suggest that where the skin of the foot is concerned, the pH of skin care formulations has no (physiologically) relevant influence on the skin's pH in either diabetic or non-diabetic subjects. Furthermore, the expectation that acidic formulations would be more beneficial for the skin's condition was not found to hold true for the skin of the foot, as no significant difference was observed between the performance of the three test products investigated in this study. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test products - Study design - Subjects - Procedures and assessments - RESULTS : Drop-outs, adverse reactions and deviations - Skin pH following product application - Skin hydration following product application - Objective and subjective evaluation of the condition of the skin following product application - Table 1 : Test product description - Table 2 : Allocation of measurements and test areas - Table 3 : Study schedule - Table 4 : Demographics of analysed subjects - Table 5 : Mean number of callus per treatment group DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12861 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AMOS8WcVf-ad0FByOi371Dk_KBNBRu31/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39882 [article]

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A review of homemade cosmetics based on a study of 150 blogs and their authors / Céline Couteau in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 569-547 Titre : A review of homemade cosmetics based on a study of 150 blogs and their authors Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Céline Couteau, Auteur ; Alvarez Rueda Nidia, Auteur ; Bérénice Breton, Auteur ; Laurence Coiffard, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 569-547 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Blogs Cosmétiques Do it yourself Produits de beauté Réseaux sociaux (Internet) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Do-it-yourself methods have been used in many fields (cooking, home improvement, decoration, gardening, etc.) for a long time, but their application to the cosmetics sector is relatively recent and seems to be linked to a number of health scandals. The objective of this work is to analyse homemade cosmetics based on a study of blogs and their authors. We made a study of 150 blogs advocating homemade cosmetics. With only one exception, the blog authors were women, mostly in their thirties, with no specific qualifications or knowledge in the fields of cosmetic formulation or chemistry. The most highly qualified of them (with at least a Master's degree) had studied marketing and management. So, the situation is an illustration of the Dunning-Kruger effect, with authors believing themselves to be qualified in a field wholly outside their own. This leads to scientific falsehoods about, for example, preservatives like parabens and phenoxyethanol. On the contrary, the relevance of the ecological motivation frequently mentioned in these blogs is undeniable. Note de contenu : Blog author profiles Motivations expressed Social media presence Qualifying the practice of cosmetics DIY Qualification of the recipes Cosmetics ingredients and products that should be avoided DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12862 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FKPQgxWl0gHJeqHMKRHdWsyv8Fu58B3-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39884 [article]

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Scalp hair loss is not random across follicular units : A new insight into human hair ageing / Junyu Luo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023) . - p. 548-555 Titre : Scalp hair loss is not random across follicular units : A new insight into human hair ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Junyu Luo, Auteur ; Qili Qian, Auteur ; Wenxin Zheng, Auteur ; Ieva Gripkauskaite, Auteur ; Sijie Wu, Auteur ; Min Zhang, Auteur ; Jinxi Li, Auteur ; Bingfei Fu, Auteur ; Ranjit Bhogal, Auteur ; Peter Murray, Auteur ; Matthew Rowson, Auteur ; Bin Li, Auteur ; Xiangyang Xue, Auteur ; Xuelan Gu, Auteur ; Yajun Yang, Auteur ; Li Jin, Auteur ; David Andrew Gunn, Auteur ; Sijia Wang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 548-555 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Vieillissement Dermatologie Différences entre sexes Modèles numériques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Scalp hair has the greatest number of hairs (typically 1–5) per follicular unit but is also the most susceptible body site to hair loss with age. Hence, we set-out to determine the degree to which scalp hair parameters change with age in women and men, any sex differences thereof and whether hair loss is random across follicular units. - Methods : A retrospective cross-sectional study of 200 Chinese men and 200 Chinese women (30–69 years). Image analysis and manual counting methods were used to measure occipital located hair parameters from 6 × 8 mm shaved scalp photographs and plucked hair microscopy images. - Results : Of the five hair parameters, the number of hairs per follicular unit had the greatest (negative) correlation with age in both men and women. Men had a greater number of hairs and follicular units than women on average but had a greater decrease in the number of hairs per follicular unit with age, particularly for the loss of multi-hair (3+) follicular units. The loss of hairs with age was significantly different to that expected by a random loss of hairs across follicular units and better described by a model of increased hair loss risk the greater number of hairs per follicular unit. - Conclusions : We have found evidence of hair loss preferentially occurring in multi-hair follicular units, which was more pronounced in men. These data suggest that part of the reason scalp hair is more susceptible to hair loss than on other body sites is due to the greater presence of multi-hair follicular units on the scalp. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subject selection - Measurement of hair parameters - Data analyses - Modelling loss of hair fibres - RESULTS : Hair parameters and sex differences - Hair parameter changes with age - Hairs per follicle unit and their change with age - Table 1 : Hair parameter characteristics by sex DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12851 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MEvrUCIkxUsepl_tUSKwAAZPrRfuR7dB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39885 [article]

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