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Lipoid P 75-3 - For naturalness and quality / Yvonne Friedewald in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 6-7 Titre : Lipoid P 75-3 - For naturalness and quality Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yvonne Friedewald, Auteur ; Christoph Heidecke, Auteur ; Vajk Deàky, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 6-7 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Compatibilité chimique et physique Cosmétiques Emulsifiants Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrogénation Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Phospholipides Procédés de fabrication Toucher Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Phospholipids number among the body’s own building blocks and are an essential part of our cell membranes. Therefore, they are highly biocompatible, completely biodegradable, and irritation-free, making them exceptionally suitable for sophisticated, high-end skin care products. Many of our phospholipids are based on non-GMO soy or on sunflower, and hence perfectly appropriate for COSMOS-approved formulations. In general, whenever a formulation needs more naturalness, tolerability and quality, phospholipids are the right choice. Note de contenu : - Hydrogenated phospholipids - Lipoid P-75-3 : Application tests - Use level - Again all formulations were stable - Compatibility : pH - Compatibility : thickeners - Compatibility : co-emulsifiers - Manufacturing processes - Skin-feel study En ligne : https://www.lipoid-kosmetik.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/LK_PC_Coverstory_Sept [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36588 [article]

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Consumers and evolving sustainabilité concept / Claire Rance in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 16-17 Titre : Consumers and evolving sustainabilité concept Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Claire Rance, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 16-17 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Développement durable Matières plastiques -- Déchets Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability is an extremely complex concept to fully grasp, but brands are becoming more adept at communicating the messages effectively. New data has revealed that almost threequarters of UK consumers (71%) do not think brands and retailers are doing enough to make their beauty and personal care purchases more sustainable. They also identified plastic waste as the main culprit – around half (46%) see it as the biggest sustainability challenge facing the industry. Note de contenu : - What do consumers want to see ? - Evolving sustainability concepts - Symbols and labels Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36589 [article]

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Revealing the natural glowing beauty of maturity in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 19-20 Titre : Revealing the natural glowing beauty of maturity Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 19-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines Algues unicellulaires Antiâge Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Densité cutanée Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The perfect balance for ageint gracefully is a wise combination of lifestyle and skin care. The new active ingredient Natura-Tec Marine BlueRevelation 50 + TM is a powerful cocktail of microalgae dedicated to men and women who whis to age better with their time by combining an integrative approach of sustainable technology and respects for the environment with more natural efficiency and more confidence. Note de contenu : - A strong demographic trend - Life-enhancing - Cutaneous ageing - In vivo evaluation - Fig. 1 : Closed-circuit low carbon footprint photobioreactor technology process - Fig. 2 : Results on skin density - Fig. 3 : Results on wrinkle visibility Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36590 [article]

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Clinical testing for a booming men's sector / Nalini Kaul in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 25-28 Titre : Clinical testing for a booming men's sector Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nalini Kaul, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 25-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Barbe et moustache -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Déodorants Etudes cliniques Études de marché Hygiène Produits de beauté masculins Produits de rasage Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The male grooming industry is growing at a rapid pace. Entire aisles of drug stores are dedicated to men’s grooming products. Product demand in the skin care, hair care, and fragrance industries has grown dramatically and is expected to keep pace in the coming years. Whether this growth stems from celebrity advertising or social media influence, one thing is clear: men have come a long way from the days of merely using a soap bar as face and body wash. The modern man stands ready and willing to invest in skin and hair products that maintain their health and youth. Globe News Wire reports the men’s grooming market worldwide will reach $183.2 Billion by 2027, with the U.S. market alone estimated at $38 Billion, and China Forecast to grow at 6.9%.1 As men continue to open their wallets for new and improved grooming products, brands catering to this market are stepping up to meet those needs by expanding offerings to include anti-ageing, SPF and anti-acne products. Customisation of products is proving equally important, such as specialised regimens for every combination of skin and hair. Note de contenu : - Personal cleansing products - Sweat & odour control products - Shaving products - Skin care products - moisturisers - Skin care products - anti-ageing products - Hair & beard care products Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36591 [article]

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Products for male grooming and physiology of male skin / Vitaly Solomonov in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 30-32 Titre : Products for male grooming and physiology of male skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Vitaly Solomonov, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 30-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Facteur naturel d'hydratation Hydratation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau masculine pH Produits après-rasage Produits de beauté masculins Produits de rasage Rasage Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is no longer enough just to re-brand an existing female focused skin care product, and understanding male skin's physiology is vital for effective men's products. Male grooming and cosmetic products for men are on the rise. While humankind is pushing through the new viral pandemic, the beauty world is still infested with another pandemic of new and the newest products for men. All levels of the cosmetic businesses are involved in this wave, from the top selective brands to the small independent manufacturers and handcrafters. The influx of these preparations of all possible forms reflects modern trends, marketing as well as the fact that men are chasing healthy, nice looking skin and trying to transform the simple but boring shaving routine into an exciting, pleasurable ritual. While we see growing demand for this type of product, some developers apparently miss the importance of the peculiar physiological properties of male skin. This can be explained by several factors, as some of the properties do not significantly impact the efficacy and safety of a formulation, while others become a tribute to some cultural or marketing requirements. For example, some trends in male skin care reflect a strongly conservative approach to grooming with a possible motto – “we are shaving like dads did with that old school stuff”. This kind of fashion embraces many men, which even create the special clubs known as “wet shavers” clubs. Simultaneously, the younger generation are longing to use the high-end products with the latest possible ingredients, technologies and forms. Obviously, basic dermatological findings in the skin should help cosmetic chemists create healthier and more efficient products for men and at the same time avoid some negative or even dangerous effects we can run into in some grooming products nowadays. Dr. Albert Kligman1 explained the basics of the epithelial functions, skin barriers, permeability in his special doctrine “Corneology”, which later became one of the basics of modern Aesthetic Dermatology and one of the general approaches of creating and evaluating topical preparations including cosmetics. The fundamental biophysical parameters such as Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), pH, epidermal lipids consistency, condition of the skin barrier along with mechanical properties, collagen formation and thickness, the level of hydration and sebum production should be taken into consideration for formulating any cosmetic products including preparations for men’s skin care of all types. Some of them are less substantial, while others are more important in conjunction with some skin’s physiological properties along with human culture or habits in skin care. The latter also causes some reactions that should be considered. Note de contenu : - Sebum - TEWL and hydration - pH - Skin elasticity, density, thickness - Culture of male grooming - Shaving - Shaving preparations - Aftershaves Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36592 [article]

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Because men care about their personal care / Pilar Castàn in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 35-37 Titre : Because men care about their personal care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pilar Castàn, Auteur ; Neus Subirats Vicient, Auteur ; N. Marimon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits après-shampooings Produits de beauté masculins Produits de rasage Produits hydratants shampooings Soins de beauté masculins Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Kao offer some innovative formulation ideas for modern personal care products for men. In 2020, with men spending a lot more time at home than usual due to the coronavirus pandemic (COVID-19), normal grooming routines have been relaxed, severely impacting sales this year. Spending will also be restricted by the economic impact of the pandemic. Sales will rebound in 2021, before settling back into annually stagnating rates from 2022. Global sales in 2020 have been 41,263.1 EUR million (Retail Values RSP), -4.7% less than previous year but a moderate growth is expected for the three big categories: shaving, toiletries and fragrances. In addition, facial hair fashion continues to put pressure on men’s shaving, the biggest category. Note de contenu : - CLEANSING PRODUCTS : Shampoos - Clear anti-dandruff-with Trikenol (ref. C-201) (Formulation 1) - Fortifying - With hair loss prevention (ref. C-210) - Bath gels - Body Wash - Mousse (ref. C-337) (Formulation 2) - Two-In-One : hair shampoo and body gel - SHAVING : Shaving Cream Ultra-Mild - outstanding foam texture (ref. C-309) (Formulation 3) - AFTER-SHAVE PRODUCTS : Refreshing Emulsion (ref. C-198) (Formulation 4) - High water content w/o emulsion (ref. C-323) - SKIN CARE : Moisturizing Gentle Facial Wash (ref C-202) (Formulation 5) - Body Cream - Light creamy feeling (ref. C-326) - Solid Body Moisturizer (ref. C-334) (Formulation 6) - Formulation 1 : Clear anti-dandruff - Formulation 2 : Hair & body dilutable cleansing - Formulation 3 : Shaving cream ultra-mild - Formulation 4 : Refreshing emulsion - Formulation 5 : Moisturizing gentle facial wash - Formulation 6 : Solid body moisturizer Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36593 [article]

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Male grooming products for a new generation / Jordan Erskine in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 39-41 Titre : Male grooming products for a new generation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jordan Erskine, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 39-41 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Produits de beauté masculins Soins de beauté masculins Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Creating the right experience is so important for any new product, and men’s products are no exception. This article from Dynamic Blending analyses the psychology behind men’s products. There is no doubt that modern men have grown to appreciate looking–and feeling– good. From 2018 to 2019, male-targeted skin care product sales jumped a full seven percent, according to research group NPD. Personal care for men is one of the hottest emerging categories in the beauty industry, and it is growing by the day. We tend to think of this trend as something new and novel. In reality, men have been highly conscious of their grooming for millennia. Men were removing facial hair with sharpened clam shells as far back as the stone age. Take one look at the monarchs of the middle-ages and you will see carefully coiffed, washed and waxed features, and even makeup on occasion. In ancient Egypt, the unbearable heat drove men (and women) to remove all body hair. However, appearance was so important to them that they crafted elaborate wigs and false beards to wear in public. Some of the Pharaohs and other wealthy Egyptians even added gold-dust to their facial hair as a symbol of their status. There were also acne treatments as far back as written history goes. Everything from peach blossoms and sour milk to falling stars and x-rays has been tried by individuals wanting to remove blemishes, regardless of gender, through the decades. The male aesthetic has a practical side, too. In the fourth century, Alexander the Great ordered his men to shave before an important battle with the Persian army. It was rumoured that soldiers could be pulled by their beards off of horses or from behind, and Alexander wasn’t taking any chances. He was such a popular figure that nearly everyone in Macedonia soon adopted the no-beard trend Fast-forward to the early 1900s, when the rise of Hollywood put everyday people on display. Stars like Charlie Chaplin, Rudolph Valentino and Buster Keaton helped to shape the style of the day, with carefully slicked hair and styled moustaches. Natural oils and French-imported products were in highdemand to achieve this look. In 1918, the Influenza Pandemic prompted better hygiene routines and contributed to the popularity of fully clean-shaven faces, due to a claim (later found to be erroneous) that facial hair was a germ magnet. In short, male grooming has not changed as much as we think. Every era in human history showcases distinct fashions for both women and men. Achieving these unique styles almost always requires specialised products: waxes, oils, soaps, razors, brushes, dyes and more. What has changed is the way we distinguish and advertise products. It takes more than trending products to capture the attention of today’s discerning male consumers, but with unprecedented access to information and data, savvy brands are elevating men’s personal care products to the next level. More than ever before, there is an opportunity to create a tailor-made experience for consumers, and men are responding enthusiastically to that. Note de contenu : - The wrong way to brand for men - Filling the void Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36594 [article]

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Beauty and hygiene : hope for positive Covid impact ? / Charlotte Winterton in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 43-45 Titre : Beauty and hygiene : hope for positive Covid impact ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Charlotte Winterton, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 43-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Cosmétiques Hygiène Pandémie Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When the world changes, our priorities change as we face new challenges and a 'new normal'. One British business (Creightons) shares their story of how they have made the most of a difficult global crisis to help benefit the needs of consumers and make positive change in the world as well as in the beauty and personal care industry. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36595 [article]

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Tea tree oil for Demodex blepharitis / Penny Hatzis in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 47-49 Titre : Tea tree oil for Demodex blepharitis Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Penny Hatzis, Auteur ; Phil Prather, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 47-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Demodex Demodex (les démodex en français) est un genre d'acariens de la famille des Demodicidae. Certaines espèces font naturellement partie du microbiote cutané humain ou vivent associées aux cheveux, cils, sourcils. Chez la vache, une espèce de Demodex peut s'insérer dans les follicules pileux, y former des cavités où il vit et se reproduit, en déclenchant une formation de nodules et de vives réactions inflammatoires. L'infestation pathologique de la partie sous-jacente de la peau de bovins d'élevage par un Demodex est une maladie vétérinaire dite "démodécose" (ici en Afrique de l'Ouest). Ici, ce sont les follicules pileux d'un singe qui sont colonisés par une espèce de Demodex (formes brunes irrégulières allongées visibles dans les cavités. Les cavités se forment dans les follicules pileux enflammés) ; photographie histologique en microscopie optique. Il regroupe des acariens minuscules, très communs sur la peau de tous les mammifères, dont il est encore difficile de dire s’ils sont des parasites ou des symbiotes (contribuant à nettoyer la peau, notamment du sébum). Ils peuvent dans certaines conditions pulluler, souvent sans symptômes, et alors jouer un rôle dans certaines pathologies dermatologiques. Ils vivent dans ou à proximité des follicules pileux des mammifères. Dermo-cosmétologie Huiles essentielles Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rosacée La rosacée, connue aussi sous le nom de couperose, est une maladie cutanée incurable au départ bénigne qui se manifeste par des rougeurs chroniques au niveau du nez, des joues, parfois aussi au niveau du menton et du front. Ces symptômes s'accompagnent d'une sensation de picotement, notamment au niveau des yeux. De petits vaisseaux sanguins, caractéristiques des varicosités sont souvent visibles dans les zones touchées associées à des télangiectasies. La maladie est évolutive et peut provoquer des crises d'acné, notamment en cas de stress ou de fatigue, et, à un stade avancé, faire enfler le nez du sujet qui reste rouge et bosselé (rhinophyma). Lorsque la rosacée est à un stade plus avancé, ou soumise à différents facteurs, elle peut aussi durement affecter la vue du sujet qui en est atteint et un examen dermatologique est recommandé. Celle maladie se distingue de l'érythrose faciale qui est un érythème diffus disparaissant à la vitropression. Théier et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The pandemic has focused attention on anti- viral and anti-bacterial claims within the personal care industry, perhaps making the world a safer place long into the future. The eyes are the window to the soul they say. Humans have had a fascination with beautifying the eyes dating back to Ancient Egyptian times, where kohl eyeliner was used to accentuate the eyes to emulate the appearance of the gods. This fascination continues today, with beauty procedures that enhance the shape of the eye such as mascara, eyelash extensions and eyelash perming being common practice Our eyes provide sight, arguably at the top of the ‘senses hierarchy’. They are a precious sensorial gateway that allows for light perception, colour vision and depth perception, shaping the way we experience the world. With so much importance placed on our eyes’ proper function, it is obvious that eye health and hygiene is of paramount importance. A commonly experienced eye condition that presents as swollen, itchy, dry, and irritated eyes is blepharitis. For most people, blepharitis causes only minor irritation and itching, however, it can lead to more severe symptoms such as blurring of vision, photophobia, missing or misdirected eyelashes, and inflammation of other eye tissue, particularly the cornea if left undertreated. Note de contenu : - What is Demodex ? - What is tea tree oil ? - What is the proof ?- What makes TTO so effective ? - At risk populations : Rosacea - Eye-sunglasses - Eyelash extensions - Pure tea tree oil -allergies and oxidation - Summary : Tea tree oil effective concentrations vs control - Eyelash extensions product applications Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36596 [article]

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Minimalist ingredients for today's hair care routine / Valérie Billebaud in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 51-53 Titre : Minimalist ingredients for today's hair care routine Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Valérie Billebaud, Auteur ; Angelia Peavey, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomatériaux Cheveux -- Teinture Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Polymères cationiques Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : To aid consumers seeking minimal ingredients lists, SNF has developed a range of cationic rheology modifiers that are multifunctional, vegan, and sustainable. The past year has left consumers wanting to simplify their beauty routine. Many are looking for vegan and more sustainable hair care products. What better way of doing this than providing consumers with formulations that use fewer ingredients, are vegan, and sustainable while delivering desired benefits. Most hair conditioners and masks contain emulsifiers, oils, silicones as ingredients. Formulators typically have to heat these ingredients in order to use them in their formulations. This process requires time and energy. The trend of “less is more” is becoming a requirement. By reducing the number of ingredients in a hair care formulation, consumer companies can save money on the cost of raw materials, time and energy by using cold process formulations. Companies can pass on these savings to the end-users, a win-win in today's climate. Note de contenu : - Polyquaternium 37 cationic inverse emulsion polymer benefits : Colour retention study - Red dye method summary - Colour enhancing properties - Polymer synergy findings - Prototype formulations comparative to market reference Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36599 [article]

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Marine ingredients for a sustainable blue economy / Lorena Sánchez in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 55-57 Titre : Marine ingredients for a sustainable blue economy Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorena Sánchez, Auteur ; Cristina Thiebaut, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 55-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biotechnologie marine Collagène marin Économie circulaire L'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même). Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ; Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphère Elastine Glycogène Le glycogène est un glucide complexe polymère du glucose. Il consiste en une chaîne de glucose lié en α (1-4) et est branché en α (1-6) tous les 8 ou 12 résidus. Il est utilisé par les animaux (et les champignons) pour stocker de l'énergie chimique et permet de libérer rapidement du glucose (principalement dans le foie et dans les cellules musculaires) au même titre que l'amidon chez les végétaux. Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cobiosa's marine-derived ingredients take advantage of the valuable chemical properties while being committed to preserving the delicate ecosystems. There is only one planet Earth, however, by the year 2050, the world population will consume as if there were three planets, according to data from the United Nations (UN). On the other hand, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) indicates that global consumption of biomass, fossil fuels, metals, and minerals will double in the next 40 years : Annual waste generation will increase 70% by 2050. A linear economy model cannot be maintained and we need a transition towards a regenerative growth model that returns to the planet more than it consumes. From this need, this year, the Commission for the Environment, Public Health and Food Safety (ENVI) has approved the new EU Circular Economy Action Plan to achieve a "fully circular, toxic-free and carbon-free economy by 2050". The circular economy is a production and consumption model, far from the traditional 'take-make-waste' linear economic model, which aims to extend the life cycle of products, materials, and resources, maintaining their value for as long as possible, and reducing the waste generated to a minimum. This reduces pressure on the environment while promoting economic growth and social inclusion In practice, a circular economy is a systemic approach to economic development designed to benefit businesses, society, and the environment. Within this economic model we can differentiate two types: The green economy, originating from the agricultural sector ; and the blue economy originating from the fishing sector. Both share the same objective : to take advantage of resources by reassessing all stages of the supply chain in order to use the waste generated in other production cycles. Note de contenu : - Blue Economy - There will be no green economy without a blue economy - Commitment to the circular economy - Marine origin macromolecules - Marine collagen on the rise - Blue biotechnology - Marine origin versus animal origin collagen - Marine elastin - Marine glycogen - Fig. 1 : Linear vs circular economy models - Fig. 2 : Blue economy conference - Fig. 3 : Cobiosa's active ingredients from the blue economy Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36600 [article]

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Reshaping body care with biotech microalgae / Blanca Martinez-Teipel in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 59-63 Titre : Reshaping body care with biotech microalgae Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Siham Bouhrir, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 59-63 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires Amincissants Biomolécules actives Biotechnologie marine Cosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Thermogenèse La thermogenèse est la production de chaleur de l’organisme chez les animaux et l’Homme par augmentation du métabolisme cellulaire. Elle s'oppose à la thermolyse, qui correspond aux mécanismes d’exportation de la chaleur produite en excès par l’organisme. Elle intervient quand la température du corps est inférieure au point de consigne (température aux alentours de 37 °C). Cela entraîne la libération dans le sang de catécholamines (adrénaline), qui vont entraîner une vasoconstriction au niveau de la peau. Le corps va chercher à produire de la chaleur par : activité musculaire : volontaire ou frissons thermiques ; le métabolisme : catécholamines, hormones thyroïdiennes ; lipolyse du tissu adipeux brun (la graisse brune n'est présente que chez les nourrissons et disparaît progressivement avec l'âge sauf chez les animaux qui hibernent). Lors de la thermogenèse, il y a vasoconstriction des vaisseaux, ce qui aide à maintenir la température centrale. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Provital’s microalgae-extracted active aims to promote positivity and reshape body care from multiple perspectives. Body positivity is essential to confidence, and confidence is the key to beauty. Considering the pressures of modern life – not least the added sedentarism brought on by the pandemic – consumers are looking for more ways to look and feel confident. Effective body care products are a valuable tool in this journey to greater positivity. Considering the potent bioactivity of microalgae for human nutrition, Provital researchers further investigated Tisochrysis lutea’s benefits for other processes, namely, its effect on lipid metabolism, yielding intriguing results for the microalgaeextracted active ingredient, Lipout™, which acts on the body at a cellular level, affecting the outcome of adipocyte differentiation and the behavior of adipocyte cells. By stimulating the metabolic processes directly related to limiting the accumulation of subcutaneous fat, Lipout™ smoothens, firms, and cares. With effective, scientifically proven ingredients like these, we can promote positivity and reshape body care from multiple perspectives. Note de contenu : - The power of microalgae - In vitro methods - In vitro results & discussion : Expression of key genes in the thermogenesis process - Expression of key proteins in the thermogenesis process - Biogenesis of new mitochondria - Increase in fatty acid oxidation - Clinical results & discussion - Reduction in fat layer : Measurements of body perimeter in centimeters - Standardised photos of the treated body areas - Thickness of the subcutaneous fat layer - Reduction of cellulite : Reduction in the length of the dermis-hypodermis junction - Activation of thermogenesis in subcutaneous adipose tissue Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36601 [article]

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Microbiome claims : to do or not to do ? / Ernesta Malinauskyte in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 65-68 Titre : Microbiome claims : to do or not to do ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ernesta Malinauskyte, Auteur ; Marcella Gabarra Almeida Leite, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 65-68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie Dermo-cosmétologie Microbiome cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article from TRI Princeton presents an overview of the skin microbiome and also the influence of cosmetic ingredients and the claims that can be made based on their activity. There is an ongoing debate regarding microbiome terminology in the microbiology field. In this paper, we will be using the following definitions: (i) Microbiota is defined as the live (or active) microorganisms present on the body, and (ii) microbiome is the community of these microorganisms and the ones that are not considered alive (phages, viruses, plasmids, prions, viroids, and free DNA), their environment and interaction amongst each other and their host. An additional difference between these two terms can be explained by how we study them. Microbiota can be studied separately from their natural environment (in vitro studies) however, the environment of microbiome studies must include all members of the microbiological "community" within its natural habitat1 despite that our interest might be only one strain. The microbiome is frequently evaluated while studying the genome of the microorganisms of interest. The microbiome is first formed when the newborn’s skin first makes a contact with the mother. The newborn’s digestive tract and skin become colonised by the mother's microorganisms which will later become part of its microbiome. This process is associated with the development and stimulation of the immune system. While studies show that the gut microbiome can influence the skin, in this paper, we will focus primarily on the relationship between skin microbiome and skin health. There are two types of microorganisms on the skin, the resident (commensal) and the transient. The commensal microorganisms reside on human skin throughout human life. Due to occasional perturbation, they might leave the skin, but will repopulate again. Meanwhile, the transient ones are not permanent, usually persisting for hours or days due to external conditions. The skin, along with these microorganisms, consists of a protective system against external aggressions. There is a balance in the composition of the skin’s components, called hydrolipidic balance, and the microbiome has its own balance that is established by a variety of healthy skin microorganisms networking with each other and the skin. When external factors promote alterations in any of these equilibria, dysbiosis occurs, making the skin more susceptible to the development of pathologies. Therefore, it is important to understand how the skin and its external conditions can affect the microbiome homeostasis and consequently promote alterations in the skin. Note de contenu : - How microbiome differs between body regions - Main issues associated with microbiome disbalance - The influence of regular cosmetic ingredients on microbiome - what is the effect of the substances that are designed to modulate skin microbiome ? - Regulations and limits for cosmetic manufacturers - So what can be done by cosmetic manufacturers ? Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36602 [article]

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Ethylhexylglycerin respect the microbiome / Matthias Hentz in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 70-72 Titre : Ethylhexylglycerin respect the microbiome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Matthias Hentz, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 70-72 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Cosmétiques Déodorants Ethylhexylglycérine L'éthylhexylglycérine ou octoxyglycérine , est un éther glycérylique couramment utilisé dans le cadre d'un système de conservation dans les préparations cosmétiques. Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ashland present Ethylhexylglycerin and show how its multifunctional qualities enable it to boost antimicrobial performance while protecting the microbiome. "Increased stress due to COVID-19 will draw more consumers to sensitive skin care products, which they believe are safer for skin". The COVID-19 pandemic, and now its variants, has focused the world’s attention on disinfectants and wash products. Prevention of contamination on the skin has never been more important to manufacturers and consumers. With an increase in hygiene measures, the skin may suffer. Dryness, redness, or irritation and more call for nourishing and caring routines to manage both possible contaminations and a healthy skin flora. It is therefore expected that 'sensitive skin' claims will gain high attention across regions. The increased consumption of disinfectants and cleansing formulas certainly has a negative influence on the skin flora. But how about ingredients that are designed to inhibit the growth of microorganisms to protect valuable products like cosmetics from deterioration and consumers from unwanted infections by pathogens ? It could be assumed that these ingredients can have an influence on the microorganisms not only in the cosmetic product, but also on the skin microorganisms. Note de contenu : - Microbiome - Ethylhexylglycerin - a multifunctional for personal care formulas - Situation of Ethylhexylglycerin - Ethylhexylglycerin and the influence on the microbiome - Fig. 1 : Improved efficacy of alcohols in combination with 1% ethylhexylglycerin (EHG) - Fig. 2 : Contact angles of aqueous solutions - Fig. 3 : List of respective perfuming ingredients - Fig. 4 : Panel results on skin feel with and w/o ethylhexylglycerin - Fig. 5 : Deodorising efficacy of ethylhexylglycerin - Fig. 6 : Deodorant formula Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36603 [article]

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Skin microbiota and claims substantiation / Anne Charpentier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 75-77 Titre : Skin microbiota and claims substantiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne Charpentier, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 75-77 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Microbiote Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skinobs offer advice on how to evaluate cosmetic activity on the microbiome and also collate a range of expert industry views on the topic. The evaluation of the effect of dermocosmetics or active products on the skin microbiota is evolving into more and more complex models. And yet, these never reach the sophistication of the ecosystem of the bacterial biofilm of the skin. In addition, it is now known that the skin microbiome is subject to intra-individual variations depending on the body areas and inter-individual according to genetic, intrinsic, and environmental factors. Note de contenu : - A complex ecosystem deeply linked to the skin homeostasis - Microbiota claims : the era of a new revolution for cosmetics ? - How to evaluate cosmetics activity on the skin microbiota ? - Combining expert's views on clinical evaluation perspectives - In vitro expert's view of the proof-of-concept - The future of skin microbiota evaluation Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36604 [article]

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Silicone elastomer blend with high natural content / Anne-Marie Vincent in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 83-85 Titre : Silicone elastomer blend with high natural content Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anne-Marie Vincent, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Garaud, Auteur ; Giada Tonet, Auteur ; Fabienne Bizeray, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 83-85 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Elastomères de silicones Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Texturants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dow’s silicone elastomer blend ingredient helps to formulate products with superior feel and high levels of natural content. Historically, Silicone Elastomer Blends (SEB) have consisted of a crosslinked silicone network swelled in a silicone carrier fluid that is valued by personal care formulators for the sensory, texture, thickening and optical benefits they provide. However, due to their 100% silicone nature, SEB may be difficult to incorporate into formulations with high levels of organic oils. While equivalent blends featuring organic carrier fluids are able to provide enhanced compatibility, this comes at the cost of affecting their sensory profile. The new DOWSIL™ EL-TIPS Silicone Elastomer Blend technology utilises a novel crosslinking approach that maximises the level of silicone elastomer when combined with an organic carrier fluid. This new SEB features more than 70% of inherently biodegradable C13-15 Alkane, obtained from a renewable source, sugarcane, which is prepared by bio fermentation and not subject to the standards of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). The use of the new optimised crosslinking technology opens up new possibilities in terms of skin sensory profile, texturising performance, compatibility and product appearance. This makes this technology particularly suited to consumer formulations with high natural content. Note de contenu : - Creating naturally derived formulations for today's consumers - Silicone sensory feel - Superior thickening allows lower use level - Product appearance - Optical properties - Formulation 1 : Touch gel-to-cream dry oil with 93% natural and derived natural ingredients - Formulation 2 : Touch melting dry oil with 94% natural and derived natural ingredients - Formulation 3 : Infusion perfumed gel with 82% natural and derived natural ingredients - Formulation 4 : Planet water-in-oil cream with 95% natural and derived natural ingredients - Formulation 5 : Savvy oil-in-water cream with 94% natural and derived natural ingredients - Table 1 : New seb in bio-based carrier compatibility profile Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36605 [article]

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The skin microbiome : cultivating innovation / Tatiana Sergeenko in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021)

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 8 (09/2021) . - p. 79-81 Titre : The skin microbiome : cultivating innovation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tatiana Sergeenko, Auteur ; Duncan Smith, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 79-81 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons. Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique... Dermatologie Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As Sagentia illustrate, the skin microbiome offers rich opportunity for innovative players to deliver exciting product strategies. Scientific understanding of the skin microbiome continues to expand bringing new opportunities for product innovation. In recent years, the consumer market has seen a wave of ‘biome’ products launched. However, we have only scratched the surface of what might be possible in this exciting field. There is much potential for knowledge of the skin microbiome to underpin advancements in personalised, effective skin care. Activity is likely to target skin health for people of different ages, ethnicities and genders, as well as in various geographies due to the impact of environmental factors. Skin problems such as acne, rosacea, eczema and psoriasis are already receiving attention, and this is set to continue. Additional areas that benefit from increased knowledge of the skin microbiome include scalp care, body odour control, wound care and intimate care. All these categories offer prospects for new product development. To achieve competitive differentiation and consumer appeal, new products are likely to require both diagnostic technology and formulation expertise. There are also regulatory considerations to bear in mind, especially for products or treatments that blur the lines between beauty and medical care. This article summarises the current innovation opportunity and considers factors affecting successful product development strategies. Note de contenu : - What we know about the skinmicrobiome - Consumer appeal - Pioneers of skin care's new frontier - Spotlight on acne - Macrotrends : personalisation and the impact of COVID-19 - Developing a regulatory strategy - Maximising the skin microbiome opportunity Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36606 [article]

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Global Personal Care Vol. 22, N° 8 URL