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GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE / Probert, Tim . Vol. 23, N° 5Mention de date : 05/2022Paru le : 02/05/2022 |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierThe four pillars of sustainable beauty / Lorraine Dallmeier in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : The four pillars of sustainable beauty Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lorraine Dallmeier, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 25-27 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocosmétiques
Chimie écologique
Cosmétique -- Industrie et commerce
Développement durable
Économie circulaireL'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même).
Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ;
Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphère
Industrie cosmétique -- Aspect de l'environnement
Recyclage (déchets, etc.)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The cosmetics sector is one of the world’s most unsustainable industries. It uses vast amounts of natural resources to produce billions of consumer products that may be designed to go on our bodies, but inevitably end up in our waterways or our landfills. Most of these cosmetics have not been created with ecodesign principles in mind, meaning that our use of beauty products has the potential to pollute ecosystems around the world with nonbiodegradable formulations and packaging.
Despite this inconvenient truth, the beauty world has only recently started talking about sustainability at an industry-wide level, as historical conversations were focused mainly on the recyclability of packaging. However, a greater focus on the climate and ecological crises has forced a spotlight on the industry’s need to play its part. As a result, both consumers and brands are finally talking about sustainable and green beauty.
We should breathe a collective sigh of relief that we are now having these important conversations. Much is at stake, should we choose to continue with business as usual. Our $500 billion+ global industry needs to dramatically change its behaviour in the coming five to ten years, should it wish to remain relevant in the long-term while also playing its part in mitigating the climate and ecological crises.
Although many of the big players are now aiming to achieve net zero emissions and we are seeing more brands using recycled and recyclable packaging, the fact remains that we are not currently addressing the elephant in the room, which is the fact that the beauty industry cannot sustain its current business model. The way we design, manufacture, promote, sell and consume beauty products needs to change fundamentally.
To achieve this goal, we first need to change the way the industry thinks about sustainability. I regularly give talks about sustainable beauty and am continuously confronted by the observation that almost everyone appears to think that business as usual can continue. For that reason, I have developed my four pillars of sustainable beauty (Figure 1), which I feel sit at the heart of the shift the beauty industry needs to make if it genuinely wishes to embrace sustainability.Note de contenu : - Pillar 1 : Less
- Pillar 2 : Circular
- Pillar 3 : Green
- Pillar 4 : Home/LocalEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BIgpX1AWxV8F0vKYx5UBaZGxNfkKbLUZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37728
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural ectoin : Protecting against air pollution / Janina Kienemund in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Natural ectoin : Protecting against air pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Janina Kienemund, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 29-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Biomolécules actives
Dermo-cosmétologie
Ectoine
Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Air pollution is not only a major threat to global climate, but also to our health. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), 99 % of the world’s population breathes air with excessive pollutant concentrations.
Defined by the WHO as 'contamination of the indoor or outdoor environment by any chemical, physical or biological agent that modifies the natural characteristics of the atmosphere', air pollution negatively affects every organ of the body, including the skin, so there is a great need for products that provide protection against pollutants. In cosmetic applications, the market for active ingredients reducing skin damage induced by air pollution has been growing continually for the last seven years.
bitop’s natural Ectoin is a well-known multifunctional active whose anti-pollution and protection efficacy was proven in clinical, placebo-controlled in vivo and ex vivo studies. Furthermore, natural Ectoin has been suggested by independent experts for the use as an anti-pollution active and was also approved for medical treatment and prevention of lung diseases such as pollution-induced chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) and asthma.
Chronic exposure to environmental conditions such as UV, blue light and air pollution has been shown to have a significant impact on skin health and aging. It is an indisputable fact that cutaneous aging is mainly driven by external stress factors, promoting the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), encouraging inflammation processes in tissues and cells, and compromising the natural skin barrier.
This results in an increase of transepidermal water loss, along with a decrease in skin thickness, skin elasticity and the occurrence of wrinkles and pigment spots. In addition, dermatoses like rash, eczema, allergies, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis are caused or reinforced by external influences. Protecting the skin from external stress factors and the prevention of cell damage are therefore logical and effective strategies for decelerating premature skin aging and treating disease-affected skin.Note de contenu : - Pollution and its impact on skin
- Studies demonstrate negative impact of air pollution
- Skincare rides to the rescue
- Natural Ectoin : a bioactive with comprehensive protection efficacyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qx9zFeW1C0J83P1EYfmQkBQNjJmcDGZK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37729
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Camellia japonica : Protecting from pollution / Julie Droux in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Camellia japonica : Protecting from pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julie Droux, Auteur ; Amandine Werle, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Antioxydants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau -- TextureIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The World Health Organisation (WHO) defines air pollution as the contamination of indoor or outdoor environments by any chemical, physical or biological agent that modifies the natural characteristics of the atmosphere.
Alarmingly, recent data indicated that around 92% of the world’s population lives in places where air quality levels exceed WHO limits.1 This can be explained by urbanisation and associated pollution, as well as highyield agriculture, both of which are constantly growing.
The skin is the first barrier that protects the body against pollutants but even if it is very efficient, this protective barrier can be overwhelmed by repeated exposure to pollution. Aggressors such as particulates, heavy metals and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) can penetrate the skin and induce the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS).2,3
ROS lead to the oxidation of proteins, lipids and nucleic acids, and also mediates cellular responses to various stressors, thus damaging the skin and its barrier function. As a consequence, extreme skin dryness and irritation can appear, accelerating signs of ageing such as the formation of wrinkles and the modification of skin texture.
To stimulate the skin’s defences against pollution particles, Clariant Active Ingredients and its partner Biospectrum were inspired by a flower that presents an amazing capacity to resist severe environmental conditions: Camellia japonica. From this flower, we created RedSnow (hereafter Camellia japonica flower extract), an active ingredient that helps the skin resist pollution.Note de contenu : - Inspiration from natural wonder
- Antioxidant activity
- Skin protection
- Skin textureEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15IgYfuKzysaqBIqVdPWntk1Dw96xHeYW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37730
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Apply liberally : challenging sunscreen misconceptions in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Apply liberally : challenging sunscreen misconceptions Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 40-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Facteur de protection solaire
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits antisolaires
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A review of the latest Sun Protection Conference in London explores whether certain conventional views about sunscreen are misplaced.
Summit Events' regular Sun Protection Conference dates back to 1995, during which time the science of sun care has changed dramatically and yet some of the major challenges remain strikingly the same – not least when it comes to mistaken perceptions outside the industry. This issue was highlighted by several speakers at the latest iteration, which took place in London in November 2021.
When he spoke at the first conference in the series, said Professor Brian Diffey of Newcastle University’s Dermatology Department, conventional views were that UVB intensity declines from a noontime apex but UVA intensity remains constant throughout the day, and that the level of UVA reaching the surface of the Earth is basically similar in summer and winter.Note de contenu : - “Absurd nonsense”
- Confusion reigns
- Addressing the imbalance
- Testing timesLooking ahead
- Too much focus on SPF ?
- Natural organic sunscreensEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jMOhKmkUmOg2RkvgPoeqSA_fkkV35NYI/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37731
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Working with TiO2 UV filters in powder form / Bethan Spruce in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Working with TiO2 UV filters in powder form Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bethan Spruce, Auteur ; Aline Souza, Auteur ; Ellen Copsey, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 45-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dioxyde de titane
Emollients
Microscopie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
ViscositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Croda Europe reveals the findings of a study of emollients mixed with different titanium dioxide powders, each optimised to provide a different sun care-relevant claim
As consumer awareness of the importance of sun protection increases, there is growing demand for daily-use sun protection products with light sensory qualities alongside natural and other claims
As a result, inorganic UV filters are growing in popularity due to their mildness and lack of skin penetration compared to organic UV filters, as well as other factors such as their natural mineral origin. The most commonly used inorganic UV filters are titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO).
This article will cover how to optimise emollient selection and the minimum level of emollient required when formulating with mineral UV filter powders.Note de contenu : - Emollient selection
- Experiment design
- Interaction (bottle test)
- Oil absorbency (burette test) : Less oil required - More oil required
- Viscosity of dispersions
- Microscopy of dispersions
- Table 1 : Emollients assessed in this study
- Table 2 : Coated TiO2 powders assessed in this study
- Table 3 : Oil absorbencies - TiO2 powders (ML/100G)
- Table 4 : Viscosity measurements of TiO2 dispersions (Spindle 7, 10RMP, 1 MIN, CP)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/110e3utUsYr_OVpG09SvEx4nGJFLg7000/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37732
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Sun care : skin microbiota surprises once more / Patrick Gonry in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Sun care : skin microbiota surprises once more Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Patrick Gonry, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Microbiote cutané
Microbiote cutané -- Analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PrébiotiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is a challenge to find anyone who does not know the damaging effect of UV light on our skin. In fact, it is well known that UV light causes the most devastating damage to the largest of our organs. Yet when it comes to the behaviour of the skin microbiome during and after sun exposure, then, suddenly our knowledge stops and we rely on guesswork.
In recent years, the personal care industry has discovered that skin microbiota, sometimes known as skin flora, are undoubtedly health and beauty heroes. Yet are they just as heroic when it comes to protecting the skin against UV radiation ?
This article describes a pioneer study that follows the evolution of the skin microbiota during sun exposure.Note de contenu : - Sun damage
- The evolution of the skin microbiota in the sun
- The support of a high molecular weight prebiotic
- Table 1 : Tested formulaEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g0WqmshVp3gIsS0jIwjAy9tzcbU3hpQV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37733
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Benefits of azelaic acid from high oleic sunflower oil / Lisanne Brouns in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
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Titre : Benefits of azelaic acid from high oleic sunflower oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lisanne Brouns, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 55-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Azélaique, AcideL'acide azélaïque est un diacide carboxylique aliphatique. C'est un anti-acnéique et un kératolytique.
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Oléique, AcideL'acide oléique vient du latin oleum et veut dire huile. C'est le plus abondant des acides gras monoinsaturés à chaîne longue dans notre organisme. Sa formule chimique brute est C18H34O2 (ou CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH). Son nom IUPAC est acide cis-9-octadécénoïque, et son nom court de lipide est 18:1 cis-9. La forme saturée de cet acide est l'acide stéarique.
On le symbolise par les nombres 18:1 pour indiquer qu'il possède 18 atomes de carbone et une liaison éthylénique. Pour indiquer la position de la double liaison, on préfère indiquer le nombre de carbones entre le dernier carbone (n° 18) et le carbone où commence la double liaison (n° 9), d'où 18 - 9, qu'on écrit n - 9, en désignant par n le nombre de carbones de la chaîne. L'acide oléique est donc un acide gras insaturé, plus précisément monoinsaturé.
La double liaison agit sur la forme de la molécule et des triglycérides qu’elle forme avec le glycérol. Comme la molécule ne peut pas pivoter autour de C = C, la chaîne est beaucoup moins flexible que l’acide stéarique et ne peut pas former de boule. Les molécules des esters de cet acide sont beaucoup moins compactes que la tristéarine: ces sont des huiles.
À la température de notre corps c'est un liquide (huile), qui ne se solidifie qu'à 13,4 °C.
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Azelaic acid is known for its efficacy and multi-action ability to offer lighter, healthier skin thanks to its antibacterial and antioxidant/lenitive actions. It is now possible to formulate cosmetic products for both skin and hair care with a multi-action azelaic acid active obtained by sustainable processes without using ozone, with raw materials in line with the European Union framework defining Safe and Sustainable-by-Design criteria for chemicals and materials. Note de contenu : - Azelaic acid as a cosmetic active ingredient
- Azepur99 as a sustainable cosmetic active ingredient
- Examples of finished cosmetic products based on Azepur99
- Table 1 : The benefits/claims and applications for azelaic acid active ingredient
- Table 2 : SC005 whitening cream (W/O)
- Table 3 : Oil-free serum for skin with disordersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ltH5vqPUbgYRCtfYVqrEZTNzG_rA3qF9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37734
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Esters : Twisting towards ultimate sensoriality / Alessandra Adduci in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Esters : Twisting towards ultimate sensoriality Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alessandra Adduci, Auteur ; Stefania Zanzottera, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 59-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cosmétiques
Économie circulaireL'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même).
Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ;
Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphère
Emollients
Esters
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The cosmetic market is constantly searching for environmentally friendly compounds and demonstrates an even higher interest in making sustainabilityfocused choice. Sensory agents represent one of the ingredient category under evaluation for a strong research of a ‘green’ character. This article presents a range of emollient agents developed by circular economy and upcycling methods through different Mediterranean-based supply chains. Food by-products and renewable sources are involved to create high performing raw materials as a base for clean, sustainable and ethical cosmetics. Note de contenu : - Reacting to market trends
- Today’s key product performance parameters
- The role of esters
- Product folio
- Fig. 1 : Qualitative sensorial profile of esters in terms of evanescence and richness
- Fig. 2 : Spreadability testEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11sLXPOHjYG3Rc6cnTv76k_JL0k_Co7Hg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37735
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Cyclic-free resin blend emulsion for skin care / Stella O'Neill in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Cyclic-free resin blend emulsion for skin care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stella O'Neill, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 64-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillant à lèvres
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Fond de teint
Maquillage
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie
VaporisateursIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : AB Specialty Silicones evaluates the longwear performance of its resin blend and resin blend emulsions in skin care applications by testing their transfer resistance
As a follow-up to a previous article in Personal Care Global, 1 AB Specialty Silicones has evaluated the long-wear performance of its resin blend and resin blend emulsions in skin care applications by testing their transfer resistance.
Resin blend emulsions have the same potential to be multi-functional ingredients for skin care as they do hair care formulations. They also offer additional benefits, making them convenient delivery for actives while also simplifying formulating and manufacturing efforts.Note de contenu : - Make-up setting spray testing
- Experiments
- Fig. 1: Resin blend emulsion
- Fig. 2 : Transfer resistance of (a) long-wear foundation, (b) standard wear foundation & (c) long- & a standard-wear foundations with the addition of a make-up spray, all formulated using MQ resin blends & MQ resin blend emulsions
- Fig. 3 : Transfer resistance of the long-wear lip gloss control formulated using MQ resin blends & MQ resin blend emulsionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZTMAiK34QDBoqDDGIoBwIEsfvweYSK7i/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37736
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible To dye for ! - A natural colouration booster / Emina Besic Gyenge in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : To dye for ! - A natural colouration booster Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Loya Schoeffel, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 67-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Cheveux -- Teinture
Cosmétiques
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Rahn's Radicare-Eco is an antioxidant based on rosmarink acid from lemon balm, young shoots of barley grass and @-glucosyl hesperidin, which are all sourced via a climate-neutral production and supply chain. Following application of 1% Radicare-Eco to three commercially available semi-/demi-permanent hair dyes, there were significant improvements to dye performance, giving an additional edge when it came to the resultant colouration. In addition, it was able to enhance the resistance to sun-induced bleaching of hair colouration. Note de contenu : - Material and methods
- Results : Hair integrity - Hair Shine - Hair colouration
- Sun induced bleaching
- Table : Δvalues for virgin and bleached hair after 31 hours and 62 hours of sun exposurePermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37737
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new olfactive expression for wood / Felipe San Juan Tejada in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
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Titre : A new olfactive expression for wood Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Felipe San Juan Tejada, Auteur ; Olivier Anthony, Auteur ; Diana March, Auteur ; Bernd Bersch, Auteur ; Angéline Leporini-Poubeau, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 73-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Parfums Tags : Parfum Captifs 'Note boisée' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The development of a new perfumery raw material - an ingredient offering novel olfactive properties - represents a major challenge. However, only a selective number of fragrance houses embark on this quest with the goal of designing and producing new exclusive ingredients, also known as captives.
Introducing a new captive to the perfumer’s palette offers fresh creative possibilities to companies who design and market perfumes. It allows them to create original scents, with distinct properties that can go a long way in differentiating their customers’ products from those of their competitors. Ultimately, it is consumers who will benefit from such innovations via the brands they cherish.
L’Âme du BoisTM (hereafter called the new woody note) is a new, patent-pending, naturally derived captive that has been developed by Eurofragance. The name means the soul, or spirit, of wood in French. This new ingredient not only provides a new olfactive expression to woody notes, but it also offers interesting properties to fragrance compositions and to the other ingredients in the formula.Note de contenu : - Breakthrough in woody notes
- The importance of captives
- Making the new note
- R&D scientists & perfumers
- Sustainable & safe
- New to the palette
- Fig. 1 : 1: Ratio of contributing molecules in new woody note
- Fig. 2 : GC-MS analysis : Before & after
- Fig. 3 : Development steps & synergy between R&D team & perfumers
- Fig. 4 : Olfactive spiderweb chart of new woody noteEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-BrAhzvdapYvqsBy6Bl1wUz40d0PK5ZQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37738
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022) . - p. 73-75[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
[article]
Titre : Feeling peachy : resin extract for the skin Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 77-79 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pêche (fruit) et constituantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Subjects of different ages and suitable health were selected for clinical evaluation of the instant wrinkle-removing function of a peach resin extract. It was found that both 5% and 10% concentrations can significantly improve the firmness of the skin of the finger and that that the 10% concentration can significantly improve skin elasticity. Five minutes after application, wrinkles in the corners of the eyes were significantly improved. In both cases the effect was most obvious in two hours and was maintained after eight hours. Note de contenu : - Peach resin
- Skin firming
- Skin elasticity
- Anti-wrinkle
- Table 1 : Firming scores of different concentrations of peach resin extractEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XbiC_f82n34QOifD0uY7bmOlok04J62g/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37739
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Why solid shampoo ? What’s next for haircare ? / Agne Roke in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Why solid shampoo ? What’s next for haircare ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Agne Roke, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 81-83 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques solides
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : More than two years after the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, consumers have changed their haircare rituals immeasurably. Adapting to new ways of working often in isolation at home, hours spent in front of laptop screens, endless video calls and numerous lockdowns effectively put an end to salon visits, normal haircare and beauty treatments for long periods of time, leaving customers used to having their hair and body looked after by experts to fend for themselves.
No doubt we all remember the salon operators who risked heavy fines and permanent closure, such was the demand for haircare during lockdown. The pandemic had a significant impact on beauty regimes and particularly on haircare.Note de contenu : - Innovation in solid shampoo
- Solid format arena
- Solid shampoo bar market
- Eco & natural claims
- Opportunities for waterless formulations
- Wider market trends
- A solid format future ?En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pxuG2q8MWU9Q3OIc1pxYk0Q9RjiFnqH7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37740
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Soothing atopic-prone skin with chestnut leaf extract / Sabine Pain in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Soothing atopic-prone skin with chestnut leaf extract Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabine Pain, Auteur ; Carole Boury, Auteur ; Sebastién Cadau, Auteur ; Catherine Bonnaud-Rosaye, Auteur ; Valérie André-Frei, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 85-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Châtaignier et constituants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Eczéma constitutionnel
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that causes itchiness and redness, as well as a loss of confidence. A new active ingredient from BASF is now proven to help improve the appearance of skin that is prone to atopy. It helps to support the skin’s natural physical and microbial barriers, and to reduce inflammatory mediator release, and can be used to help comfort atopic-prone skin. The ingredient is derived from French chestnut leaves, being 100% of natural and organic origin. It enables cosmetics manufacturers to meet rising demand for dermocosmetic products that address common epidermal concerns and improve the skin condition. Note de contenu : - A new active
- In vitro tests
- In vivo testsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OS07Eysn-B3F7Nulyrqo3SUkXXBXCZcT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37741
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022) . - p. 85-88[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23368 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin renewal and barrier boost from seashore flower / Annalisa Madonini in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
[article]
Titre : Skin renewal and barrier boost from seashore flower Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Annalisa Madonini, Auteur ; Xavier Briand, Auteur ; Fidji Briand, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 91-95 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens
Antioxydants
Biomolécules actives
Biotechnologie marine
Dermo-cosmétologie
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits hydratants
Régénération (biologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : One vital function of skin is to form an effective barrier between the organism and the environment. This is mainly provided by the epidermis, which maintains both ‘inside-outside’ and ‘outside inside’ barriers, regulating water loss and protecting the organism from external (including mechanical, chemical and microbial) stressors, respectively. Mechanical resistance, photoprotection, antimicrobial and antioxidant defences also help to perform these essential functions. Note de contenu : - Concentrate of powerful bioactives
- Mechanisms of action
- Activating anti-microbial skin defences
- Stimulating skin defences against oxidative stress
- Improving SC integrity
- Maintaining SC permeability
- Preserving cell-cell connectivity & communication
- Supporting epidermal renewal
- Maintaining epidermal hydric balance
- Regulating desquamation
- Enhancing skin surface hydration
- Restoring skin renewal capacities
- Table 1 : Protein components of CE regulated by PN
- Table 2 : Components of CE involved in ceramide synthesis and transport, regulated by PNEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XPwXFEmOL67V7OwPWVfE74-0yjniVtjV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37742
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