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GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE / Probert, Tim . Vol. 23, N° 10Mention de date : 11/2022Paru le : 26/10/2022 |
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Titre : Going the extra mile with hectorite clay Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 6-7 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composés inorganiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Facteur de protection solaire
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Hectorite
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Résistance à l'humidité:Résistance à l'eauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sunscreen systems are often exposed to extreme conditions yet must consistently deliver the active ingredient to provide uniform protection. With the popularity of clean beauty, mineral sunscreens are gaining more attentions as they are more sensitive skin friendly and environment friendly.
In response to today’s consumers’ needs, Elementis offers unique hectorite clay-based ingredients and developed two sunscreen formulations with pure inorganic UV filters that allow formulators to go beyond just UV protection and solve their formulating challenges.Note de contenu : - Improved system stability with inorganic UV filters
- Improved application
- Boost SPF and water resistance
- Benefits of bentone gel, bentone luxe and bentone hydroclay
- What is hectorite ?En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zC0Pa7l8E8rMH0FqEagLqy06caH39V1f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38701
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Natural molecule offering anti-pollution benefits / Janina Kienemund in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : Natural molecule offering anti-pollution benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Janina Kienemund, Auteur ; Eva Galik, Auteur ; René Schmitz, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 25-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Agents de blanchiment
Barrière cutanée
Dermo-cosmétologie
Ectoine
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : German active ingredient supplier bitop explains why the natural extremolyte Ectoin is suited for cosmetic formulations for all skin types, matching various consumer demands and market trends such as anti-pollution, blue light protection and whitening.
Human skin is situated at the interface of the organism and its environment and is therefore constantly exposed to numerous extrinsic stress factors. Chronic exposure to environmental conditions, including ultraviolet light (UV), blue light and air pollution has been shown to have a significant impact to skin health and ageing.
It is an indisputable fact that cutaneous ageing is mainly driven by external stress factors, promoting the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), encouraging inflammation processes in tissues and cells and compromising the natural skin barrier.
This results in an increase of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), along with a decrease of skin thickness, skin elasticity and the occurrence of wrinkles and pigment spots. Additionally, dermatoses like rash, eczema, allergies, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are caused or exacerbated by external influences.
Protecting the skin from external stress-factors and the prevention of cell damage thus are logical and effective strategies to slow down premature skin ageing and treat disease affected skin. In recent years, stress-protection molecules, so-called extremolytes, have become popular as cosmetic active ingredients, e.g. bitop Ectoin® natural (hereafter referred to by its INCI name, Ectoin).Note de contenu : - Skin barrier repair
- Pigmentation against pollution induced pigmentation
- Protection against blue light induced pigmentation
- Whitening and lightening efficacy
- Table 1 : Depigmenting effect and skin lightening
- Table 2 : Reduction of different pigmentationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t9suX9WYTGg1n9kpnxZutDXRqXDGdd2f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38702
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Anti-pollution benefits of multi-tasking esterquats / Fernando Teodoro in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : Anti-pollution benefits of multi-tasking esterquats Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fernando Teodoro, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 30-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Esterquats
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pollution is an external stressor that can lead to premature ageing for skin and hair, and consumers looking for preventative skin and hair care products are boosting the demand for anti-pollution ingredients. Stepan Personal Care initiated laboratory testing for its two novel skin and hair conditioning esterquats to see if they could provide anti-pollution properties. Test results showed Stepanquat® Helia and Stepanquat Soleil can build a film on the skin and hair that then protected them against the adhesion of polluting microparticles. In addition to this protective film, both conditioning agents provide excellent hair conditioning performance and sensorial benefits for skin, improving spreadability and imparting a velvety skin feel. Formulators would be able to leverage all of these properties to create multi-tasking hair and skin care products with anti-pollution benefits. Note de contenu : - High-performing esterquat that protects skin and hair
- Hair test
- Excceding sustainability and performance expectationsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bCjJvs9a_IeDHXiUQB5o7S72uDeoXlpz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38703
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Benefits of astaxanthin for anti-pollution / Alexander Pototschnik in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : Benefits of astaxanthin for anti-pollution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander Pototschnik, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 35-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Anti-inflammatoires
Antioxydants
Astaxanthine
Dermo-cosmétologie
Espèces réactives de l'oxygène
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Stress oxydatifIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Astaxanthin, a reddish pigment from the carotenoid family, is extracted from the alga Haematococcus pluvialis and considered the strongest naturally occurring antioxidant. To minimise long-term skin damage associated with pollution, astaxanthin can be used as a second-line protection. Its antiinflammatory activity has been known for a long time and has been confirmed by numerous studies. Especially for cosmetic products, BDI-BioLife Science has developed its own raw material containing 5% of astaxanthin. The properties of the red diamond have been substantiated by in vivo and in vitro proof of efficacy. While its effect against blue light-induced stress has already been proven in preliminary studies, the current research takes a closer look at the issue of blue light. Note de contenu : - The red diamond amongst radical scavengers
- Blue light radiation as part of the pollution
- Efficacy of astaxanthin on blue ligh-stressed human ex vivo skin
- Material and methods
- Fig. 1 : Astaxanthin acts against oxidative stress and ROS
- Fig. 2 : Classification of light by penetration depth
- Fig. 3 : Degradation of profilaggrinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d_QXs-pGKRYUOIxJmBJSSGLyxfshwfUg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38704
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Multiethnic active for exposome protection / Consuelo Garcia in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
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Titre : Multiethnic active for exposome protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Consuelo Garcia, Auteur ; Eva Gomez, Auteur ; Ramon Subiros, Auteur ; Sandra Mendez, Auteur ; Albert Soley, Auteur ; Gemma Mola, Auteur ; Nùria Almiñana, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 41-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Biomolécules actives
Biotechnologie
Carbonylation
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
ExposomeL'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à -dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome.
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peroxydation
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Extreme weather events, like heat waves, droughts, and wildfires, combined with the increase in aggressors like air pollution, are preventing many consumers from enjoying the great outdoors. Lipotec has discovered a new, natural active biotech ingredient, Xpozukiâ„¢, which is able to protect the skin, scalp, and hair against the exposome. On the skin and scalp, it can protect against oxidative damage, and on the hair fibre, it can protect against protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation. In clinical trials, the new active ingredient sourced from organic azuki beans has demonstrated the ability to minimise skin and hair damage induced by exposome stress on a diverse group of female panelists with various skin and hair types, improving skin tone and texture homogeneity, as well as hair vitality. In doing so, the new active ingredient, which harnesses biotechnological expertise to enrich the content of Azukides natural peptides, can help to support all consumers to feel more protected against environmental aggressors. Note de contenu : - Preserving and repairing skin and scalp cell viability against exposome damage
- Protein carbonylation protection from exposome stress on multi-ethnic hair shaftsSkin and hair multiethnic clinical study for the evaluation of a cosmetic formulation containing 2% natural active ingredient under exposome stress damage
- Natural active ingredient treatment improves even skin toneSkin texture smoothness after application of active cream containing natural active ingredient
- Hair treatment with natural active ingredient diminishes split ends, improves fibre alignment, frizz, and volume controlEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gs_QclerzB9tafH_hXrjAVU0GxQ5_cG0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38705
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The present and future of skin microbiome testing / Marco Piacentini in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : The present and future of skin microbiome testing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marco Piacentini, Auteur ; Anna Zugnoni, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 47-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Microbiote cutané -- Analyse
Séquençage des acides nucléiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for cosmetic industries. Improving our understanding of host-microbial interactions and how to maintain its delicate balance is essential for the development of new cosmetic formulations. Here, Eurofins proposes an integrated approach to support the analysis of microbiome sequencing data by use of skin biophysical measurements.
The skin is the largest organ of the human body and the one with the highest surface area, directly in contact with the external environment. This huge surface area harbours immune cells and it is inhabited by billions of resident commensal microorganisms constituting the so-called skin microbiota.
The skin microbiota consists of the collection of all microorganisms residing in an anatomical niche of the body, including bacteria, archaea, viruses and eukaryotes, while their genomes represent the skin microbiome, and its composition is unique to each person and part of the body. Microorganisms and host cells are engaged in a continuous exchange with each other aiming to a dynamic balance.
On the one hand, the skin provides nutrients and abiotic factors (e.g. temperature and humidity) promoting microbiota growth. On the other hand, the microbiota prevents the colonisation of pathogens, directly and indirectly benefiting the host.Note de contenu : - Early-life microbiota
- Role of atopic dermatitis
- Species diversity concept
- The gut-skin axis
- Microbiome-friendly claims
- Next-generation sequencing
- An integrated approach
- Figure : The accuracy of genome sequencing analysis depends on how well the sample handling and processing have been madePermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38706
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 3D modelling of Malassezia furfur skin interaction / Valérie Borrel in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
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Titre : 3D modelling of Malassezia furfur skin interaction Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Valérie Borrel, Auteur ; Antoine Florin, Auteur ; Maëlle Garion, Auteur ; Christel Boudry, Auteur ; Michel Salmon, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatite sébhorrhéique
Dermatologie
Epiderme
Expression génique
Malassezia
Marqueurs biologiques
Modélisation tridimensionnelle
Relations hôte-champignonIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Straticell illustrates in a 3D model that Malassezia furfur invades the upper layers of the reconstructed epidermis with deleterious impacts on the barrier function, inducing an effective immune and inflammatory response, at both gene and protein levels.
Malassezia furfur is a lipid-dependent yeast naturally living on the skin. Despite its tolerance by the immune system under healthy condition, M. furfur overgrowth is associated with skin disorders such as dandruff.
Dandruff and its more severe form seborrheic dermatitis (SD), are common chronic inflammatory conditions characterized by an abnormal shedding of the skin in seborrheic areas of the body. While dandruff is restricted to the scalp, SD also affects oily rich areas of the face, causing itching, pruritic lesions and erythema.
Environmental and internal stress factors, dysregulation of the immune system and fungal colonization are amongst the main contributors to the development of SD and dandruff.1 It has been described that in dandruff, the quantity of Malassezia can increase up to 1.5 to 2 times its normal level.
This huge spread of yeast highly invades the epidermis, with detrimental consequences on the skin barrier function. Because the epidermis is the principal barrier against the penetration of chemicals and pathogens, any disruption increases microbial invasion and triggers both innate and acquired immune response.
Keratinocytes are playing a central role in this response by secreting key signaling molecules like antimicrobial peptides to overcome pathogenic infections, as well as various cytokines and interleukins to recruit inflammatory cells. In the case of Malassezia overgrowth, previous studies have reported the expression of some defensins and pro-inflammatory cytokines in response to infection.Note de contenu : - Colonization of RHE with M. furfur and barrier disruption
- Impact on gene expression
- Secretion of protein biomarkersEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zmSouLpZxhh3o0d_hPimbYgbku4otzBA/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38707
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Mild cleansers with 'sulfate-free' surfactants / Peter Clark in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : Mild cleansers with 'sulfate-free' surfactants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Clark, Auteur ; Alice Miles, Auteur ; Jeannie Ang, Auteur ; Steve O'Connor, Auteur ; Russell Cox, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 55-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Douceur (toucher)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hygiène
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits nettoyants
Sulfates -- Suppression ou remplacement
Surfactants -- Suppression ou remplacementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Innospec Performance Chemicals has developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and acyl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations.
In the personal care industry, there is an ever-increasing demand for milder, naturally derived ingredients that has been driving the selection of raw materials globally. In addition, there remains a focus within the industry to find alternatives to sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
The reasons for the shift towards sulfate-free mostly arises from reports of skin irritation due to exposure to both of these sulfate based surfactants.1 To facilitate the move to using alternatives to alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, Innospec have developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and acyl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations.
The drive towards sulfate-free started over 15 years ago when concerns were raised in an internet blog over the use of alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates in personal care products. Over the past ten years, consumer concern has continued to grow significantly causing market leaders to launch an ever-increasing number of sulfate-free formulations to both the consumer and professional personal care markets. One key thing to remember: economics will never be the driving factor in the journey to develop sulfate-free formulations.Note de contenu : - Importance of formulation pH on selection of mild surfactants
- Optimising electrolyte thickening
- Relative mildness of 'sulfate-free' surfactants compared to SLS and SLES
- Mildness testing
- Optimising foam performance
- Table 1 : Innospec has developed a wide range of chemistries based on both (alkyl) acyl amino acids and ayl (methyl) isethionate chemistries to improve skin mildness in formulations
- Table 2 : Low pH mild feminine hygiene wash S0245
- Table 3 : High natural 96 % ISO16128, facial cleanser gel S0236En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eG7JxVFNQPNPgE1i2dFCjA6EifSHVpju/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38708
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Nano olive oil as potential silicone substitute / Lai Nam Hai in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : Nano olive oil as potential silicone substitute Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lai Nam Hai, Auteur ; Dang Thi Hông Ngoc, Auteur ; Hoà ng Thi Ca Ly, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 61-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Caractérisation
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Huile d'olive et constituants
Huiles essentielles
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Nanotechnologie
shampooings
Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacementIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Vietnamese outfit Wakamono is developing Nano Olive Oil, which it says is extracted from natural ingredients, safe and friendly to environment and has the potential to completely replace or reduce the use of silicone and polyquaternium in shampoo while maintaining product effectiveness.
The combination of nanotechnology and organic ingredients in the cosmetic industry results in more advantageous outcomes than traditional methods. In 2020, Nam Hai Lai et al, in the ‘Process for producing micro emulsion system of Nano essential oil’ study, described a process for producing a micro- emulsion system of nano essential oil, which allows the formation of uniformly-sized droplets capable of dissolution and long-term stability in water with no activity or structure changes.
This helps to increase the use efficiency of essential oils, namely increasing the absorption and bioavailability that are applicable on an industrial scale. Thus, nanotechnology improves stability, high absorption, and creates a watersoluble oil system for cosmetic products.
Accordingly, Wakamono Corporation of Vietnam is developing Nano Olive Oil featuring triglycerides that retain the oil’s abilities such as nutrition, moisturising, keeping hair glossy, and safety. These have been evaluated by ten studies at independent laboratories. The purpose of the tests is to provide an efficacy comparison between a shampoo with Nano Olive Oil and other shampoos containing silicone products.
As the following results show, these tests illustrate that Nano Olive Oil has more efficacy and potential than products containing silicone, which is an environmental problem the world is facing. Furthermore, the antioxidant and UVA protection capabilities of Nano Olive Oil were substantiated by a significant reduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels compared to the untreated, UVA-exposed control.
Additionally, the results indicated the sample at the tested doses did not show any cytotoxicity effect. According to the test results, Nano Olive Oil is a natural antioxidant that can protect hair from harmful factors such as sunlight, pollution, cosmetic treatments, and grooming practices.Note de contenu : - Test 1 : Hair gloss test
- Test 2 : Hair friction test
- Test 3 : Sensorial analysis - Consumer preference
- Test 4 : Comb force test
- Test 5 : Hair shine test
- Test 6 : Curl retention test
- Test 7 : Surface characterization test by SEM
- Test 8 : Split ends protection test
- Test 9 : Compatibility test (solubility)
- Test 10 : In vitro assessment of protection from UVA light-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes
- Cell viability (resazurin)
- Oxidative stress after UVAEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B2UBmnXOKx_LY2RWlsfQMKtPVyMGBy-h/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38709
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Revitalising hair beauty with aminosilicones / Tow Kuam Lem in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)
[article]
Titre : Revitalising hair beauty with aminosilicones Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tow Kuam Lem, Auteur ; Aylin Bozoglu, Auteur ; Clara Gil Navarro, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 68-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amino-silicones
Brillance (optique)
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Conditionneurs (cosmétique)
Cosmétiques
Douceur (toucher)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Peignage
Produits après-shampooings
Produits capillaires
Protection thermique
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Since the pandemic, consumers have adopted new trends such as do-it-yourself beauty care and demanding high-performance hair care products that can achieve similar result as in a salon. BRB Silicones looks at how its aminosilicones are specially developed in response to meet this demand to provide multi benefits in conditioning, colour protection, hair shininess, hair manageability and hair smoothness.
In today’s competitive personal care market, consumers are demanding more when it comes to hair care products. Consumers value strong, shiny and full-bodied hair as healthy hair.
To meet these requirements, the hair care industry develops innovative products with protection and moisturisation claims, which have become important functionality claims in many hair care products, ranging from shampoo to conditioning and styling.Note de contenu : - Importance of hair protection & moisturisation
- Specialty silicone as multifunctional ingredient
- Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone
- Maintaining colour vibrancy
- Reduced combing force
- Wet & Dry Combing
- Improved hair smoothness
- Improved hair manageability
- Improved hair shininess
- Application
- Figure : Molecular structure of Bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone
- Formulation 1 : Shampoo
- Formulation 2 : Conditioner
- Formulation 3 : Deep moisturising shampoo
- Formulation 4 : Deep conditioning hair mask
- Formulation 5 : Heat protective hair oil
- Formulation 6 : Hair shine pomadeEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GZ6xMGRbrjO1kyAQkfHudE0kaRjusJLM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38710
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23657 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Titre : Taking a restorative approach to skin resiliency Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 73-75 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Collagène III
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
HétérosidesLes hétérosides (ou glycosides) sont des molécules nées de la condensation d’un sucre (ose, alors qualifié de glycone) et d'une substance non glucidique (appelées aglycone ou génine). Ces deux éléments sont réunis par une liaison dite glycosidique dont le type définit une classification du glycoside. La liaison peut être de type O- (définissant un O-glycoside), de type N- (définissant une glycosylamine), de type S- (définissant un thioglycoside ex. glucosinolate), ou de type C- (définissant un C-glycoside). Cette liaison peut être rompue par hydrolyse, qui sépare donc glycone et génine.
La glycone (la partie « sucre » du glycoside) peut être un sucre simple (le glycoside est alors un monosaccharide) ou comporter plusieurs sucres (le glycoside est alors un oligosaccharide ou polysaccharide).
L'aglycone (partie non sucrée = génine) peut être de nature chimique très variée : il peut s'agir d'un alcool, d'un phénol, d'une substance à fonction aminée ou à fonction thiol, d'un stéroïde, etc. C'est elle qui confère à l'hétéroside l'essentiel de ses propriétés spécifiques (thérapeutiques ou toxiques par exemple).
Ingrédients cosmétiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Type III collagen is a crucial component of the extracellular matrix of various internat organs and skin. Type III collagen in the dermal layer is an essential fibre that provides appropriate softness to the skin and blood vessels, and works for skin repair. In recent years, cosmetics for the purpose of improving wrinkles and sagging have been attracted much attention, and the important rote of type III collagen localised in the dermis has been investigated. In this study, in order to rejuvenate the texture and appearance of the skin, we found that the kaempferol glycosides contained in Dianthus caryophyllus flower extract have a remarkable effect on regulating the production of type III collagen and its related factors. This extract was also found to have useful effects such as improvement of resiliency and reduction of wrinkle degree on human skin, suggesting that it is an anti-ageing ingredient that could be used for various purposes. Note de contenu : - Focusing on type III collagen
- Enhancement of type III procolagen production and regulation of related factors
- Human clinical studyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Aszxm8Lh7YPYVEfV7N3WYXvIzv72M1Gw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38711
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022) . - p. 73-75[article]Réservation
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Titre : Naturals : Colour without compromise Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants végétaux
Cosmétiques
Couleur
Pigments inorganiques
Pigments végétauxIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic ingredient supplier Azelis takes a wide-ranging look at the various options available for formulators to achieve colour from many natural sources, with solutions ranging from minerals found in stones, plant seeds oils and flowers for use in powders, oils and extracts
Colour is defined as the property possessed by an object of producing different sensations on the eye as a result of the way it reflects or absorbs colours from the visible electromagnetic spectrum, or visible light in simpler terms. So if an object reflects all of the visible light it will appear white or if it absorbs all of the visible light then the object appears black.
Personal care formulators predominately work in the area between these two extremes where just some of the light is absorbed or reflected and a colour is achieved.Note de contenu : - Are white or black really considered colours ?
- The link between colour and emotion
- Choosing a suitable natural colourant
- Raw material options
- Colour from the earth
- Colour from seeds
- Colour from fruit pulp
- Colour from flowers
- Colour from minerals
- Colour from algaeEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lyKUAfsMg-JxY0SinhkErpTYz25bDz2L/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38712
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022)[article]Réservation
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Titre : Upcycled fragrance waste for cosmetic actives Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 81-84 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-pollution
Déchets végétaux -- Recyclage
Économie circulaireL'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même).
Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ;
Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphère
Etudes cliniques
Evaluation
Parfums -- Déchets
Produits et matériaux recyclés
Schinus terebinthifoliusIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics explain why upcycled Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extracts are good examples of how the recently created synergy between the fragrance and cosmetic industries can produce original, upcycled and sustainable cosmetic ingredients with interesting effects.
Environmental issues like climate change, increasing pollution and endangered biodiversity have gradually become part of the collective consciousness of society. Consumers are more educated than ever before and their habits and practices are changing. They are thus expecting more from the cosmetic brands they purchase, throughout the whole manufacturing process and supply chain of products.
Recycling, which transforms waste into materials of similar value, is no more considered as the most effective way to dispose of things initially intended to be destroyed. Beyond recycling, a new trend is emerging toward upcycling, a process that rather converts a material into something of greater value than it originally was.
Circular beauty refers to the use of upcycled ingredients obtained by transforming leftovers, by-products, waste or discarded materials from other industries into high-value innovations combined with environmental benefits.
The fragrance industry commonly requires a huge amount of raw materials and generates several tons of waste (spent plant) in the process of extracting essential oils for the making of perfumes. Upcycling of fragrance waste is a step forward on sustainability and opens new opportunities for the cosmetic industry.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Extracts - Clinical evaluation of the upcycled - Clinical evaluation of the upcycled Lavandula angustifolia extract
- CLINICAL RESULTS OBTAINED WITH THE UPCYCLED SCHINUS TEREBINTHIFOLIA EXTRACT ON SCALP : Protection from moisture- and friction-induced scalp erythema and pruritus - Protection from moisture- and friction-induced scalp scaling
- CLINICAL RESULTS OBTAINED WITH THE UPCYCLED LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA EXTRACT ON POLLUTANT-CHALLENGED SKIN : Protection of the skin barrier function - Protection of skin luminosity following indoor pollutant stress
- Fig. 1 : Upcycling fragrance industry waste
- Fig. 2 : Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia : examples of upcycling waste
- Fig. 3 : In vitro results for Schinus terebinthifolia and Lavandula angustifolia extractsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DL_dOxgltvF7MXL1da2MBh1T5HWzmhw4/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38713
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 10 (11/2022) . - p. 81-84[article]Réservation
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