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From decoding the perception of tightness to a clinical proof of soothing effects derived from natural ingredients in a moisturizer / Sebastian Hendrickx-Rodriguez in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 486-499 Titre : From decoding the perception of tightness to a clinical proof of soothing effects derived from natural ingredients in a moisturizer Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Sebastian Hendrickx-Rodriguez, Auteur ; Sophie Connetable, Auteur ; Barbara Lynch, Auteur ; Joseph Pace, Auteur ; Ross Bennett-Kennett, Auteur ; Gustavo S. Luengo, Auteur ; Reinhold H. Dauskardt, Auteur ; Anne Potter, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 486-499 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Etanchéité Formulation (Génie chimique) Modèles numériques Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To decode the feeling of skin tightness after application of a cosmetic product and how to soothe this discomfort. To pursue this aim, we considered the ingredient's effect on stratum corneum (SC) biomechanics to differentiate between consumers prone to tightness from those that are not and correlate these effects with mechanoreceptor activation. - Methods : In vivo clinical trials were used to assess the tightness perception dichotomy between groups of Caucasian women; in vitro experiments were used to measure the mechanical stresses induced in the SC after cleanser and moisturizer application; and in silico simulations were used to illustrate how the measured mechanical stresses in the SC result in the development of strains at the depth of cutaneous mechanoreceptors, triggering tightness perceptual responses. - Results : Before any cream application, women prone to tightness tend to have a more rigid SC than their less sensitive counterparts, however cleanser application increases SC stiffness in all women. Surprisingly, no correlation was found between tightness perception and hydration measurements by the Corneometer or barrier function, as evaluated by transepidermal water loss. Self-declared tightness and dryness scores were strongly associated with a self-described sensitive skin. After application of the optimized moisturizing formula, Osmoskin® containing natural waxes with good filming properties, consumers report a strong decrease in tightness and dryness perception. These results match with laboratory experiments where the cleanser was shown to increase SC drying stresses by 34%, while subsequent application of Osmoskin® decreased stresses by 48%. Finite element modelling, using experimental results as input, elucidates the differences in perception between the two groups of women. It makes clear that Osmoskin® changes the mechanical status of the SC, producing strains in underlying epidermis that activates multiple cutaneous mechano-receptors at a level correlated with the self-perceived comfort. - Conclusion : Integration of the in vivo, in vitro and in silico approaches provides a novel framework for fully understanding how skin tightness sensations form and propagate, and how these sensations can be alleviated through the design of an optimized moisturizer. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vivo clinical study design - In vitro mechanical stress - In silico computational modelling of cosmetic treatment effects - Ingredients and formulation - RESULTS : Tightness decoding: In vivo instrumental, sensorial and clinical results - Impact of an optimized moisturizer to reduce tightness after a harsh cleanser treatment: In vivo instrumental, sensorial and clinical results - In vitro results: Drying stress profile of the stratum corneum - Modelling results: Impact of cleanser and Osmoskin® moisturizer on mechanoreceptors’ activation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12797 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uie85R4gYHbZxj0Rs4cnzo7qit_aP8I5/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38148 [article]

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Comprehensive model for characterizing skin translucency by expert grading, panel evaluation and image analysis in a Chinese population / Di Qu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 500-513 Titre : Comprehensive model for characterizing skin translucency by expert grading, panel evaluation and image analysis in a Chinese population Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Di Qu, Auteur ; Xiaojuan Wang, Auteur ; Jianwei Liu, Auteur ; Ziqi Wu, Auteur ; Carla Kuesten, Auteur ; Weiyi Hu, Auteur ; Hirono Totsuka, Auteur ; Yinbei Chen, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 500-513 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Chinois(e)s Modèles numériques Peau -- analyse Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Statistiques Translucidité (optique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Translucent skin is an attribute widely appreciated by people in East Asian countries. There have been studies in the literature to describe the phenomenon by means of clinical grading, instrumental measurement and image analysis. However, due to its subjective and complex nature, skin translucency has not been comprehensively and rigorously characterized and modelled, particularly in the Chinese population. This study is to develop a mathematical model that quantitatively describes skin translucency from visual cues objectively measured from the skin. - Materials and Methods : The study was designed to characterize and model skin translucency by incorporating expert evaluation, panel perception and image analysis of multiple skin visual attributes in one analysis. Faces of 36 Chinese females aged 18–65 years old were evaluated by a dermatologist to obtain clinical translucency scores. Subject pairs were formed with a relatively high and low translucency score in each pair. Their faces were judged in person by 9 panellists in paired-comparison (2-AFC) fashion to pick a ‘more translucent skin’ from each subject pair. Front-view facial images of the subjects were taken, and multiple colour and other visually perceivable skin attributes were measured using image analysis. Bradley-Terry analysis and multiple regressions were performed to correlate the panel choices of ‘more translucent skin’ with the objectively measured skin parameters. - Results : Multiple skin colour properties affected the panel choices towards translucent skin. Among them skin tone lightness and skin glossiness had positive effects on skin translucency while the hue, colour unevenness, severity of red and dark spots affected it negatively. Subsurface light reflection and skin visual smoothness had some effect but were not statistically significant. A mathematical model was constructed to predict a person's skin translucency from objectively measured skin attributes. - Conclusion : The subjective property of skin translucency can be characterized and quantified via a comprehensive modelling process involving clinical grading, panel evaluation, image-based measurement of skin attributes and statistical analysis. A novel skin parameter, Skin Translucency Index (STI) was established, which provides a way to measure skin translucency, making it possible to assess treatment efficacy before and after product application. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects and facility - Expert grading and skin colour measurement - Panel perception - Quantification of panel perception results - Image capture and analysis - Modelling - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Distributions of objectively measured skin visual attributes - Panel responses - Modelling - Validation of STI model - Application DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12798 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TSp-NkxV6MaUpTS4php3e7dBzZDuuZLc/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38149 [article]

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A comparison between silicone-free and silicone-based emulsions : Technological features and in vivo evaluation / Antonia Mancuso in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 514-529 Titre : A comparison between silicone-free and silicone-based emulsions : Technological features and in vivo evaluation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Antonia Mancuso, Auteur ; Martine Tarsitano, Auteur ; Betty P. Udongo, Auteur ; Maria Chiara Cristiano, Auteur ; Daniele Torella, Auteur ; Donatella Paolino, Auteur ; Massimo Fresta, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 514-529 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions -- Stabilité Etude in vivo Granulométrie Rhéologie Silicones Les silicones, ou polysiloxanes, sont des composés inorganiques formés d'une chaine silicium-oxygène (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) sur laquelle des groupes se fixent, sur les atomes de silicium. Certains groupes organiques peuvent être utilisés pour relier entre elles plusieurs de ces chaines (...-Si-O-...). Le type le plus courant est le poly(diméthylsiloxane) linéaire ou PDMS. Le second groupe en importance de matériaux en silicone est celui des résines de silicone, formées par des oligosiloxanes ramifiés ou en forme de cage (wiki). Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Nowadays, the use of silicones in cosmetic formulation is still controversial, given that “natural” or “biodegradable” components are preferred. Often, the exclusion and/or the discrimination of these excipients from cosmetic field are unmotivated because all things cannot be painted with the same brush. Hence, we want to bring to light and underline the advantages of including silicones in cosmetic emulsions, refuting and debunking some myths related to their use. - Methods : Silicone-free and silicone-based emulsions were obtained within an easy homogenization process. Droplet size distribution was assessed by laser diffraction particle size analyser Mastersizer 2000™, and by optical microscopy. The long-time stability profiles were investigated thanks to the optical analyser Turbiscan® Lab Expert. Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) by Rheolaser Master™ and frequency sweep measurements by Kinexus® Pro Rotational Rheometer were carried out to assess a full rheological characterization. In vivo studies were carried out by the evaluation of Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) over time on healthy human volunteers. A skin feeling rating was collected from the same volunteers by questionnaire. - Results : From size distribution analysis, a better coherence of data appeared for silicone-based emulsion, as the size of the droplets was kept unchanged after 1 month, as well as the uniformity parameter. Morphological investigation confirmed a homogenous droplet distribution for both samples. Silicones enhanced the viscosity, compactness and strength of the cream, providing a suitable stability profile both at room temperature and when heated at 40°C. The solid-like viscoelastic behaviour was assessed in the presence of dynamic oscillatory stresses. The monitoring of TEWL over time demonstrated non-occlusive properties of emulsions containing silicones, the values of which were comparable to the negative control. Silicone-based emulsions gained higher scores from the volunteers in silkiness, freshness and softness features, while lower scores were obtained in greasiness compared to silicone-free emulsions. No cases of irritation were recorded by the candidates. - Conclusion : The presence of specific silicones inside a cosmetic product improved its technological characteristics. The rheological identity and the stability feature showed the real suitability of prepared emulsion as a cosmetic product. Moreover, this study demonstrated that silicone-based emulsions are safe for the skin and did not cause skin occlusion. Improved skin sensations are registered by potential consumers when silicones are included in the formulation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions - Size distribution - Optical microscopy - Diffusing wave spectroscopy (DWS) - Dynamic rheology studies - Stability studies - In vivo trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) evaluation - Skin feeling - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Physicochemical characterization of emulsions - In vivo evaluation of emulsions’ effects on skin - Table 1 : Composition in weight percentage (wt %) of two types of O/W emulsions - Table 2 : Parameters recorded by MasterSizer 2000™ affecting the size distribution of samples DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12800 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TfUrwdk7z2rjooOUVAqqmoDxqRAVr0X4/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38150 [article]

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Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study / Chengda Ye in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 530-541 Titre : Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Chengda Ye, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Yang Wang, Auteur ; Hua Sun, Auteur ; Guancheng Yang, Auteur ; Yanwen Jiang, Auteur ; Caroline Delaunay, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 530-541 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomécanique Chinois(e)s Mesure -- Instruments Signes du visage Statistiques Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of the study was to associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial ageing signs with some biomechanical skin properties. - Methods : The severities of 20 facial ageing signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20–65 years) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin colour parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device. - Results : Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial ageing signs increases from 30 to 65 years, in a linear-like progression, whereas the 20–30 years shows weak increases. Skin colour shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40 and 65 years. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30–50 years period and plateau beyond. - Conclusion : The present study suggests that the 20–30 years period, albeit more clinically ‘silent’ than the other periods of age, seems to be an age range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Clinical grading - Instrumental measurements - Statistics - RESULTS : Facial clinical signs and age - Instrumental measurements and age - Table 1 : Distribution of the 219 Chinese male subjects by age groups and their sample sizes - Table 2 : Summary of the 20 facial signs in Asian men that can be graded by the experts, re-grouped into 5 major clusters DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12802 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14fwdiRgb67UpQpU9Xw5mjeBfdzGteaA_/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38151 [article]

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In vitro effect on the proteolytic activity of papain with proteins of the skin as substrate / Thalles Canton Trevisol in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 542-554 Titre : In vitro effect on the proteolytic activity of papain with proteins of the skin as substrate Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Thalles Canton Trevisol, Auteur ; Rosana Oliveira Henriques, Auteur ; Karina Cesca, Auteur ; Ana Júlia Antunes Souza, Auteur ; Agenor Furigo, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 542-554 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biotechnologie Cosmétiques Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Papaïne La papaïne est une protéase à cystéine qui catalyse le clivage des liaisons peptidiques avec une spécificité assez faible, mais toutefois une préférence pour l'hydrolyse des sites ayant un résidu d'acide aminé portant une grande chaîne latérale hydrophobe en position P2 et pas de résidu de valine en position P1'. On trouve cette enzyme dans le latex de la papaye (Carica papaya). Elle est l'exemple-type de la famille des papaïnes dite famille C1, dont d'autres enzymes se retrouvent dans l'ananas et de très nombreux végétaux. (Wikipedia) Peau -- Anatomie Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This work aims to evaluate the effects of enzyme concentration, pH, temperature and time course degree of hydrolysis (DH) of papain regarding further development of pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. - Methods : The hydrolysis of casein, collagen, keratin and porcine skin at pH and temperature ranges of the human skin was evaluated. Also, low contact times of enzyme-substrate were studied. The incorporation of 3mM of cysteine improved the caseinolytic (PU), collagenolytic (CU) and keratinolytic (KU) activities of papain. - Results : In general, the increase from 0.1 to 1.0 or 2.0 mgmL−1 of papain improved PU, CU and KU. When 2.0 mgmL−1 of papain was used, the highest DH of casein, collagen and keratin was obtained at 240min (14%, 35% and 6% respectively). The decrease in pH and temperature reduced all proteolytic activities, but papain maintained at least 50% and 40% of its activity at 26°C and pH 4.5 respectively. Scanning electron micrographs of the surface of the skin showed that papain application had exfoliating activity. - Conclusion : This preformulation study demonstrated that papain concentration, time of application and pH of the product should be evaluated when developing a product to promote the hydrolysis of the proteins of the skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Caseinolytic activity assay - Effects of cysteine concentration during the reaction - Collagenolytic activity assay - Keratinolytic activity assay - Effects of cysteine and sodium sulphite in the keratinolytic activity - Determination of degree of hydrolysis (DH) - In vitro evaluation of the topical application of the enzyme on skin substrate - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of cysteine concentration on caseinolytic activity of papain - Influence of papain concentration on caseinolytic activity and degree of hydrolysis of casein - Influence of papain concentration on collagenolytic activity and degree of hydrolysis of collagen - Influence of papain concentration on keratinolytic activity and degree of hydrolysis of keratin - Effect of pH on the proteolytic activity of papain with casein, collagen and keratin as substrates - Effect of temperature on the proteolytic activity of papain with casein, collagen and keratin as substrates - Visual aspect of the topical application of papain on skin substrate - - Table 1 : Effect of cysteine concentration on the caseinolytic activity of papain - Table 2 : Effect of papain concentration on the proteolytic activity of casein, collagen and keratin as substrates - Table 3 : Effect of the addition of reducing agents in the keratinolytic activity of papain DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12805 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LJj2z8pLoZzpFna_tyQ9yNz8Zj4TPIaI/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38152 [article]

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Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis / Steven Breakspear in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 555-568 Titre : Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Steven Breakspear, Auteur ; Patrick Frueh, Auteur ; Anna Neu, Auteur ; Bernd Noecker, Auteur ; Crisan Popescu, Auteur ; Qi Uellner, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 555-568 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption Adsorption Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux humides Désorption Hystérésis L'hystérésis (ou hystérèse) et signifiant "après" ou "plus tard", est la propriété d'un système qui tend à demeurer dans un certain état quand la cause extérieure qui a produit le changement d'état a cessé. Justification de l'allégation Mesure Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The process of moisture sorption and desorption by human hair was analysed for extracting hints on the hair structure. - Methods : The isotherms of moisture sorption and desorption by hair were recorded for untreated and chemically treated (permed and bleached) hair. Data of swelling were also considered. - Results : By examining the swelling and moisture sorption of keratin fibres, it is possible to conclude that hysteresis is quite improbably caused by capillary condensation. The mobility of the protein chains and the strength of the bonds binding water molecules to the active sites inside the matrix are proposed as causes instead. The concept of “breaking symmetry”, derived from moisture sorption– desorption data, and the method of evaluating this parameter, is proposed as a way of characterizing the chemical treatment of hair. The results show that bleaching produces a larger breaking of symmetry than perming, and this is suggested to be due to new hydrogen bonds, created as a result of the chemical treatment, replacing the original disulphide bonds, which are of different strength compared to the bonds of untreated hair. The quantitative sorption data matched well to the model of grains of matrix enveloped in layers of water molecules at increasing relative humidity, up to 100%. The analysis suggested that, aside from the glass transition event occurring at around 60%–70% relative humidity, there is another, less examined, transition occurring at around 30% relative humidity, assigned to the opening of the hair inner structure, and accommodation of more water molecules. Both transitions are reflected by corresponding changes in the fibre mechanical behaviour. - Conclusion : The moisture sorption-desorption by hair was shown to not only allow a quantitative differentiation among various cosmetic treatments of the hair but to also provide valuable information on the structure of the fibre. Note de contenu : - Materials - Treatments - Measurements - Table 1 : Areas of “Old” and “New” hysteresis for untreated and chemically treated hairs - Table 2 : The internal surface of monolayer and of multilayer of water molecules calculated by Equations (7) and (8) for untreated, permed and bleach-treated hairs DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12806 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EJKhn9ZqClfhXHP7W6fv4gqOUXFf0fu1/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38153 [article]

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Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product / Liudmila Yarovaya in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 569-587 Titre : Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Liudmila Yarovaya, Auteur ; Neti Waranuch, Auteur ; Wudtichai Wisuitiprot, Auteur ; Watcharee Khunkitti, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 569-587 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pépins de raisins Produits antisolaires Raisin et constituants Rhéologie Statistiques Texture -- Analyse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In the development of cosmetic products, sensory evaluation is an important step in determining consumer acceptance before it is released on a market but is often time-consuming and costly. However, correlating sensory characteristics with instrumental parameters using multivariate techniques is a potential way to facilitate the development of cosmetic products. - Methods : Sunscreen formulations varied in the content of grape seed extract (GSE) and ultraviolet (UV) filters, and benchmark products were characterized using sensory descriptive analysis and instrumental analysis. Principal Component Analysis (PCA) was applied to the panel's performance data to study how well the panelists performed compared to each other and to find an association between rheological and textural instrumental parameters of cream samples. Further, applying Partial Least Squares (PLS) regression analysis, the association between sensory attributes and instrumental parameters was analyzed. In addition, a preference for the sensory properties of the studied sunscreen products that are important for consumers living in Southeast Asia was assessed by PLS. - Results : In this study, both the sensory and instrumental properties of all tested formulations were described well by PCA. The practicality of PLS was confirmed by an established correlation between sensory attributes from the categories of appearance (glossiness), pick-up (integrity of shape, firmness, glossiness, stringiness), and after-feel (glossiness, spreadability, stickiness) with both rheological and textural parameters. Although the instrumental analysis could not completely replace sensory evaluation, a described method applying PLS can be used as an additional cost-effective and time-saving method during the development of cosmetic products. Moreover, PLS revealed that sunscreens with a light texture and glossy appearance providing smooth skin after-feel are likely to be preferred over the thicker formulations having a residual color appearance in Southeast Asia. - Conclusion : Until a universal model is created, the cosmetics developers and companies can apply a described method of determining sensory properties from the instrumental parameters of their own products. Future studies will be worth exploiting the applicability of the PLS regression model on instrumental datasets predicting sensory characteristics of other sunscreen products. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Preparation of grape seed extract - Preparation of sunscreen formulations - Sensory evaluation - Instrumental determinations - Textural analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Sensory analysis - Instrumental profiling - Partial least squares (PLS) regression analysis - Table 1 : Sunscreen formulations - Table 2 : Definitions of attributes used for sensory evaluation - Table 3 : Rheological parameters of cream samples derived through controlled oscillatory strain sweep and shear flow analysis - Table 4 : Textural parameters of cream samples - Table 5 : Partial Least Square regression model calibration and cross-validation for predicted and reference responses DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12807 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1unxmlYIYtQF3kJhZJge7WgK8qDm6fJIM/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38154 [article]

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New approach for hair keratin characterization: Use of the confocal Raman spectroscopy to assess the effect of thermal stress on human hair fibre / Mohammed Essendoubi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 588-601 Titre : New approach for hair keratin characterization: Use of the confocal Raman spectroscopy to assess the effect of thermal stress on human hair fibre Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Mohammed Essendoubi, Auteur ; Nada André, Auteur ; Bérengère Granger, Auteur ; Celine Clave, Auteur ; Michel Manfait, Auteur ; Isabelle Thuillier, Auteur ; Olivier Piot, Auteur ; Jose Ginestar, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 588-601 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Contraintes thermiques Evaluation kératines La kératine est une protéine, synthétisée et utilisée par de nombreux êtres vivants comme élément de structure, et également l'exemple-type de protéine fibreuse. La kératine est insoluble, et peut être retrouvée sur l'épiderme de certains animaux, notamment les mammifères, ce qui leur garantit une peau imperméable. Parfois, lors d'une friction trop importante, la kératine se développe à la surface de la peau formant une callosité. Les cellules qui produisent la kératine meurent et sont remplacées continuellement. Les morceaux de kératine qui restent emprisonnés dans les cheveux sont couramment appelés des pellicules. La molécule de kératine est hélicoïdale et fibreuse, elle s'enroule autour d'autres molécules de kératine pour former des filaments intermédiaires. Ces protéines contiennent un haut taux d'acides aminés à base de soufre, principalement la cystéine, qui forment un pont disulfure entre les molécules, conférant sa rigidité à l'ensemble. La chevelure humaine est constituée à 14 % de cystéine. Il y a deux principales formes de kératines : l'alpha-kératine, ou α-keratin, présente chez les mammifères notamment, dont l'humain, et la bêta-kératine, ou β-keratin, que l'on retrouve chez les reptiles et les oiseaux. Ces deux types de kératines ne présentent clairement pas d'homologie de séquence. Chez l'être humain, la kératine est fabriquée par les kératinocytes, cellules se trouvant dans la couche profonde de l'épiderme. Les kératinocytes absorbent la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les mélanocytes), se colorent et ainsi cette pigmentation de l'épiderme permet de protéger les kératinocytes des rayons ultraviolets du Soleil. (Wikipedia) Microscopie électronique à balayage Produits capillaires Spectroscopie Raman Thermo-protection Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of our research was to investigate the heat-protecting effect of a product ex vivo and in vivo on human hair fibres. - Methods : A preparatory study was carried out in order to determine an optimal threshold of thermal stress. For this, the structure of cross-sections of the hair fibre was observed by optical microscopy. Then, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) were applied to analyse ex vivo and in vivo morphological and molecular damage in hair structure after heat stress. Finally, in vivo tests were used to collect consumer perception. - Results : The preparatory study enabled us to determine an optimal stress threshold of 10 heating cycle for SEM and 5 heating cycle for CRS. Based on spectral hierarchical classification using Ward's clustering algorithm, the ex vivo Raman results show that the spectral signature of the hair treated and heated is very close to the negative control. This shows that the product preserves the keratin structure after thermal stress. These results were also confirmed by an in vivo Raman analysis performed on hair samples from 5 donors. In concordance with Raman results, SEM shows that treated hair presents lesser “bubbles” and “crackling” on the hair surface. Finally, the in vivo studies proved that hair was more protected from heat. - Conclusion : The authors concluded that the product shows protective properties with respect to morphological and molecular heat damage. We also demonstrate that the product promotes the α-helix keratin conformation and preserves the S-S disulfide bands. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair care product composition (INCI list) - Human hair samples collection and treatment - Preparatory study - Scanning electron microscopy observation - Raman spectroscopic analysis - In-vivo tests - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Preparatory study - Evaluation of thermal stress on the hair by SEM method - Evaluation of thermal stress on the hair by Raman spectroscopy DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12808 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EuTDcOczGNCCT1RKXLlF_ns-U14XL4sS/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38155 [article]

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 44, N° 5 URL