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Influence of wall slip, thixotropy and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations / Febin Cyriac in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 271-288 Titre : Influence of wall slip, thixotropy and lubrication regime on the instrumental sensory evaluation of topical formulations Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Febin Cyriac, Auteur ; Tee Xin Yi, Auteur ; Pui Shan Chow, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 271-288 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cosmétiques -- Analyse Emulsions -- Stabilité Formulation (Génie chimique) Rhéologie Statistiques Texture -- Analyse Thixotropie Toucher Viscoélasticité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Drawing parallels from rheotribology can be used to develop a robust instrumental protocol for non-subjective characterization, product development and design of topical dosage forms with desired sensory attributes. However, instrumental characterization of cosmetic products can be influenced by the measurement protocol, thixotropy, flow anomalies like shear banding or wall slip and nature of the film formed on the skin surface. In this study, we evaluated the influence of above parameters on the instrumental sensory evaluation of 12 topical formulations of different galenic forms. - Methods : Oscillatory strain sweep measurements (SAOS and LAOS) were performed to investigate the influence of frequency and wall slip on the material parameters. The textural attributes at different consumer touchpoints were evaluated by accounting time-dependent simulation of viscoelastic flow. Further, the influence of film thickness and sample drying on the tactile properties of the topical formulations were studied on a non-biological skin model using a sliding probe tribometer. - Results : The study shows that the flow properties of the semi-solid formulations depend on the timescale of the problem. A few formulations exhibited wall slip to varying degrees in the linear viscoelastic regime where the behaviour was found not to be characteristic of a particular topical dosage form. The material functions obtained from the Lissajous plots suggest that the non-linear flow behaviour of different galenic forms is least influenced by the boundary conditions imposed by the measurement geometry. The results were statistically analysed using principal component analysis where the attributes used for discriminating skin creams during pick up and rub out are found to be closely associated with non-linear rheology. The friction coefficient exhibited speed dependence where it formed different parametric group with rheological data depending on the lubrication regime. - Conclusion : The study highlights that correlations are possible amongst rheological, tribological and instrumental textural analysis data, which can act an impetus for the development of models to predict attributes that drive perception at different consumer touchpoints. However, the choice of instrumental settings, anomalies associated with rheological measurements and friction dependence on a number of parameters can influence the model prediction. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Methods - Tribological characterization - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Texture analysis - Rheological characterization - Friction measurements - Table 1 : Topical formulations employed in the study - Table 2 : Influence of measurement geometry and gap on oscillatory strain measurements. The result is the average obtained from two different measurements and the standard deviation is also shown DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12773 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/153UJUH9Ww_mnWp-W0LyLrvBPyHmMKB8X/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38130 [article]

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Benefit of coconut-based hair oil via hair porosity quantification / Vaibhav Kaushik in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 289-298 Titre : Benefit of coconut-based hair oil via hair porosity quantification Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Vaibhav Kaushik, Auteur ; Ajeet Kumar, Auteur ; Nitya Nand Gosvami, Auteur ; Vaishali Gode, Auteur ; Sudhakar Mhaskar, Auteur ; Yash Kamath, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 289-298 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux défrisés -- Soins et hygiène Colorimétrie Noix de coco et constituants Pore (anatomie) Ouverture imperceptible dans la peau de l’homme ou de l’animal, par où se fait la transpiration. (wiktionnaire) Produits capillaires Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The present study is intended to characterize the surfactant damage suffered by the hair cortex in routine washing and the mechanistic effect of Coconut Based Hair Oils (CBHO) to mitigate the damage. - Methods : Surfactants which diffuse into the hair structure solubilize protein moieties, leading to an increase in porosity and internal surface area as well as the pore volume. The changes in hair pores occurring in the hair cortex are measured by nitrogen sorption method in line with the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) theory. Single fiber tensile parameters were measured using Diastron MTT 175. Color protection was measured quantitatively using spectrophotometer as well as visual rating by trained panelists. - Results : The pore surface area data clearly show the benefit of introducing coconut-based hair oils (CBHO) into the hair by preventing increase in hair porosity. A statistically significant decrease in break stress and toughness were observed and the same were reversed by the application of CBHO. A pronounced color protection effect was also recorded with the application of CBHO. - Conclusion : The porosity reduction effect seen with the use of CBHO is attributed to the CBHO molecules blocking the diffusion pathways in the endocuticle and the matrix part of the cortical cells, limiting protein surfactant interaction resulting in reduced solubilization and loss. Since, the color molecules are likely to be much smaller than the protein moieties, a pronounced color protection effect suggests that the penetrated CBHO molecules form a dense diffusion barrier in the matrix, cell membrane complex (CMC) and the endocuticle regions of hair - which are the main diffusion pathways out of hair. The study confirms the damage repair potential of CBHO and that it works by increasing the hydrophobicity of hair - both on the hair surface and in the cortex. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND ME THODS : Human hair sourcing - Surfactant treatment protocol - Hair oil treatment - Hair colour treatment - BET SURFACE AREA MEASUREMENT - SINGLE FIBRE TENSILE TESTING : Hair colour measurement - RESULTS AND ANALYSIS : Effect of treatment on tensile strength - Colour protection by CBHO - Table 1 : Pore size, pore area and pore volume quantification - Table 2 : Tensile parameters per cent change with treatments - Table 3 : p-Value for two-sample T-test conducted with different combinations of data En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I5Y1HbaVORe7vCr2XLCzp3oWZDZvznsZ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38131 [article]

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Ex vivo-In vivo correlation of retinol stratum corneum penetration studies by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping / Richard Krombholz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 299-308 Titre : Ex vivo-In vivo correlation of retinol stratum corneum penetration studies by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Richard Krombholz, Auteur ; Stefanie Fressle, Auteur ; Dominique Lunter, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 299-308 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Barrière cutanée Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Microscopie confocale Raman Pénétration cutanée Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin penetration studies of topically applied drugs are a challenging topic in the development of semisolid formulations. The most commonly used methods can be differentiated by their character into ex vivo/in vivo, invasive/non-invasive and offline/in-line measurements. In this study, we compare ex vivo tape stripping, an invasive technique, which is often used, to confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM), ex and in vivo, to establish a correlation between those methods. Retinol was used as a model drug, applied in an oil-in-water emulsion, to compare the skin penetration profiles obtained by the different methods. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of the retinol emulsion - Preparation of porcine ear skin - Incubation of porcine ear skin - Tape stripping - Retinol quantification by HPLC - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) ex vivo/in situ - Retinol quantification by CRM - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) in vivo - Data evaluation and statistics - RESULTS : Ex vivo tape stripping - Ex vivo/in situ CRM - In vivo CRM DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12775 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sA91sNCGXy5ZghRFSLH-LkB_5XpKDBVd/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38132 [article]

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Prebiotic effect of galacto-oligosaccharides on the skin microbiota and determination of their diffusion properties / Anja Petrov in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 309-319 Titre : Prebiotic effect of galacto-oligosaccharides on the skin microbiota and determination of their diffusion properties Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anja Petrov, Auteur ; Marija Corovic, Auteur ; Milica Simovic, Auteur ; Katarina Banjanac, Auteur ; Rada Pjanovic, Auteur ; Dejan Bezbradica, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 309-319 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Galacto-oligosaccharides Un galacto-oligosaccharide est un élément naturel présent dans les graines et dans les organes souterrains des légumes secs (haricots, pois chiches...). Ils jouent un rôle de réserves et de protection contre le gel. (Wikipedia) Microbiote cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Prébiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Recently, prebiotics are attracting plenty of attention in the field of skin care, since it is found that they are able to support the balance of beneficial and harmful microorganisms on the skin, and accordingly prevent several skin conditions associated with microbial imbalance. Topical application of prebiotics, although insufficiently investigated, holds great promise in improving skin health. The purpose of this research was to determine the prebiotic potential of galacto-oligosaccharides (GOS) for skin microbiota and suitability for incorporation in different topical formulations, and finally, provide insights into their diffusion properties. - Methods : The prebiotic effect of GOS was evaluated through the influence on the growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus, the most common resident and pathogenic bacterium of the skin microbiota, respectively. Also, with the future use of GOS in cosmetic products in mind, the diffusion of GOS molecules from two different topical formulations, hydrogel and oil-in-water (O/W) gel emulsion, was monitored employing Franz diffusion cell and two systems—with cellulose acetate membrane and transdermal diffusion test model, Strat-M® membrane. Course of fermentation and the amount of diffused GOS molecules were monitored using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). - Results : The in vitro results revealed that GOS at a concentration of 5% (w/v) has a pronounced stimulatory effect on S. epidermidis, while simultaneously showing an inhibitory effect on S. aureus, both in nutrient broth and cosmetic formulations. GOS trisaccharide and tetrasaccharide diffusion coefficients from O/W gel emulsion were calculated to be 5.61·10−6 cm2 s−1 and 1.41·10−8 cm2 s−1, respectively. The diffusion coefficient of GOS trisaccharides from hydrogel was 3.22·10−6 cm2 s−1, while it was not determined for tetrasaccharides due to low diffused concentration. Transdermal diffusion tests revealed that GOS incorporated in two formulations stays at the surface of the skin even after 24 h. - Conclusion : When applied in adequate concentration, GOS has the potential to be used as a skin prebiotic. Novel GOS enriched formulations, Aristoflex® AVC-based hydrogel and Heliogelâ„¢-based O/W gel emulsion, provided efficient diffusion and delivery of prebiotic GOS molecules to the skin surface. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Bacterial strains and growth conditions - Preparation of cosmetic formulation - GOS prebiotic activity assay - Diffusion experiments - HPLC analysis - Calculation of the effective diffusion coefficients - Data processing and statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Study of the effect of GOS on the bacterial growth - Diffusion study of GOS from topical formulations - Table : Calculated effective diffusion coefficients of GOS from two different cosmetic formulations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12778 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GjfCRr_PxGlFjG2RqWlBkMdQX7msKHKi/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38133 [article]

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Advances in nanotechnology-based hair care products applied to hair shaft and hair scalp disorders / Jùlia Scherer Santos in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 320-332 Titre : Advances in nanotechnology-based hair care products applied to hair shaft and hair scalp disorders Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Jùlia Scherer Santos, Auteur ; Thais Nogueira Barradas, Auteur ; Guilherme Diniz Tavares, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 320-332 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Maladies Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Nanotechnologie Produits capillaires Tige capillaire La tige capillaire est la partie visible du cheveu qui se trouve hors du follicule pileux. Elle est considérée comme biologiquement morte car dépourvue de vaisseaux sanguins et de nerfs. Elle prend la forme d’un cylindre constitué de 3 couches nommées, de l’extérieur vers l’intérieur, la cuticule, la corticale et la médullaire. Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Nanotechnology has been intensively applied to the development of novel cosmetic products for hair and scalp care during the last decades. Such a trend is corroborated by the fact that about 19% of the total nanocosmetics registered in the StatNano database are intended for hair and scalp care. Nanotechnology-enabled formulations based on nanoparticles, cyclodextrins, liposomes and nanoemulsions have emerged as novel approaches due to chemical stability and their controlled release. Regarding hair care formulations, nanocarriers can target the hair shaft, hair follicle and scalp. Therefore, they have been used to treat several hair disorders, including dandruff and other hair-damaging conditions. - Methods : This review addressed the most important nanocarriers applied to hair-related disorders improvement. Furthermore, the application for hair photoprotection and improvement of hair colour duration by nanotechnological formulations is also approached. Besides, we provided an overview of the current scenario of available nano-based commercial hair products and novel patented inventions. - Results : From the patent search, the Patent Cooperation Treaty was pointed as the most important depositing agency while the United States of America has been the most depositing country. On the contrary, according to the StatNano database, Brazil stands out in the hair care worldwide market, and it is also the main producer of hair cosmetics based on nanotechnology. - Conclusion : As nano-based products offer several advantages over conventional cosmetics, it is expected that in future, there will be more research on nanocarriers applied to hair disorders, as well as commercial products and patent applications. Note de contenu : - CURRENT SCENARIO OF HAIR CARE PRODUCTS BEARING NANOTECHNOLOGY : Commercial products - Recent patents - NANOCARRIERS AS DELIVERY SYSTEMS OF BIOACTIVE INGREDIENTS - HAIR FOLLICLE AS NANOCARRIERS TARGET - HAIR SHAFT AS NANOCARRIERS TARGET : Hair conditioning - Hair dyeing - Hair photoprotection - HAIR SCALP AS NANOCARRIERS TARGET : Dandruff - Table 1 : Nanocarriers to hair shaft and hair scalp dysfunctions DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12780 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uvkuH4jdCscyAG5tzJcWruD4H6lDcSSk/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38134 [article]

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Impact of Portuguese propolis on keratinocyte proliferation, migration and ROS protection: Significance for applications in skin products / Nuno Saraiva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 333-342 Titre : Impact of Portuguese propolis on keratinocyte proliferation, migration and ROS protection: Significance for applications in skin products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Nuno Saraiva, Auteur ; Marisa Nicolai, Auteur ; Marta Martins, Auteur ; Nuno Almeida, Auteur ; Matteo Gusmini, Auteur ; Elisabete Muchagato Maurício, Auteur ; Maria Paula Duarte, Auteur ; Margarida Gonçalves, Auteur ; André Rolim Baby, Auteur ; Ana Fernandes, Auteur ; Catarina Rosado, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 333-342 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Chimie analytique Chromatographie Dermo-cosmétologie Espèces réactives de l'oxygène Peau -- Soins et hygiène Propolis Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Propolis has been used since antiquity, but recent reports of its biological properties hint that it could be employed as a topical pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredient. This work aims to probe the action of Portuguese propolis extracts on skin cells, providing mechanistic insights into its mode of action and preliminarily assessing its applicability as a skin repair ingredient. - Methods : The total phenolic content of propolis extracts was measured by the Folin Ciocalteu method. The cytotoxic effect of propolis extracts in human keratinocytes was determined and non-cytotoxic concentrations of the extracts were used to study the impact on collective cell migration, cell cycle and intracellular ROS levels. - Results : o significant impact was observed in collective cell migration, but one of the extracts mildly increased G2 phase while reducing the % of sub-G1 at a non-cytotoxic concentration. The two extracts with higher phenolic content strongly prevented intracellular cellular ROS accumulation upon exposure to TBHP. Collectively, these results indicate that the putative beneficial effects of propolis extracts in skin repair may not be attributable to induction of collective cell migration but could be partially ascribed to the protection from oxidative stress, which could act in synergy with its well-known antimicrobial activity. - Conclusion : These data support the applicability of this material in topical and cosmetic formulations and further in vivo assays should be conducted to fully characterize its efficacy and safety. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Preparation of propolis extracts and wax fraction - Total phenolic content and chromatographic analysis of the propolis extracts - 2D and 3D HaCaT cell culture - Cell cycle progression of HaCaT cells treated with the propolis extracts - In vitro wound healing assay - Impact of propolis extracts on intracellular reactive oxygen species - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Phenolic profile of the propolis ethanolic extracts - Cell viability of HaCaT cells treated with the propolis extracts - Cell cycle progression of HaCaT cells treated with the propolis extracts - In vitro wound healing assay - Impact of propolis extracts on intracellular reactive oxygen species - Table 1 : Total phenolic content of propolis extracts DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12781 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_f9EPPGbvAUvynjZ9XKivdTaZJuXxNl8/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38135 [article]

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An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo / Remo Campiche in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 363-376 Titre : An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Alizée Le Riche, Auteur ; Janin Edelkamp, Auteur ; Alfonso Fernandez Botello, Auteur ; Emmanuel Martin, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Marta Bertolini, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 363-376 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Edelweiss et constituants Follicule pileux Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Hair loss and reduction in hair volume are hallmarks of hair disorders, such as telogen effluvium, or male or female pattern hair loss, and hair ageing, which can cause severe distress in both men and women. Common anti-hair loss drugs carry some side effects; therefore, novel, safer approaches targeting milder phenotypes are highly advocated. In this context, we investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum var. Helvetia, for its ability to modulate hair follicle (HF) growth ex vivo and inhibit hair loss while increasing hair regeneration in vivo. - Methods : Human amputated HFs were microdissected from three donors, two women and one man, and cultured ex vivo for 6 days. After treatment with 0.001% Edelweiss extract (EWDE), we investigated hair shaft production and anagen/catagen conversion, and measured known parameters associated with hair growth, that is hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, dermal papilla inductivity, and growth factors, by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry. To assess the anti-hair loss potential of the alpine plant compound, we performed a randomized, placebo-controlled human study enrolling Caucasian women and men, aged 18 to 65 years, with normal hair loss. After 5 months’ daily use of an extract containing leave-on serum, we analysed hair density and anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio by the Trichogram analysis. - Results : Our results revealed a significant prolongation in the anagen phase in HFs treated with 0.001% Edelweiss, as indicated by an increase in HFs remaining in anagen and a significant decrease in hair cycle score. In line with this effect, EWDE significantly stimulated hair matrix (HM) keratinocyte proliferation, and dermal papilla inductivity, as shown by a significant up-regulation of versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity, and a tendential increase in FGF7 immunoreactivity in the dermal papilla of all HFs or only anagen VI HFs. Corroborating the ex vivo results, we observed a significant increase in growing hair shaft numbers (hair density) after treatment with Edelweiss extract formulation, and a tendential up-regulation in the anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio. - Conclusions : We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti-hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing-associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Donor material and information - Leontopodium alpinum extract preparation - Hair follicle organ culture and treatment - Frozen hair sample processing - Immunofluorescence - Histochemistry - Alkaline phosphatase in situ activity - Hair cycle staging and scoring - Hair follicle elongation/Hair shaft production - Clinical study - RESULTS : Edelweiss extract prolongs anagen phase ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly stimulates hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation - Edelweiss extract stimulates dermal papilla inductivity ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly increases hair density in our study population - Edelweiss extract increases anagen/catagen-to-telogen ratio DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12783 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1roEyyeeGxdrMDR8pTlYOeFSjjusLGtvd/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38136 [article]

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Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach / Anika Bluemke in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 377-393 Titre : Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Anika Bluemke, Auteur ; Annika P. Ring, Auteur ; Jeannine Immeyer, Auteur ; Anke Hoff, Auteur ; Tanya Eisenberg, Auteur ; Wolfram Gerwat, Auteur ; Franziska Meyer, Auteur ; Sabrina Breitkreutz, Auteur ; Lina M. Klinger, Auteur ; Johanna M. Brandner, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur ; Doerte Segger, Auteur ; Frank Rippke, Auteur ; Dorothea Schweiger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 377-393 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Bakuchiol Le Bakuchiol est un méroterpène (composé chimique à structure terpénoïde partielle) de la classe des terpénophénols. On le trouve dans Psoralea corylifolia et dans Otholobium pubescens. (wikipedia) Dermo-cosmétologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species, consecutive inflammation with reduced epidermal and dermal cell viability and resulting damage to the extracellular matrix. Effective dermocosmetic treatment modalities should ideally address these hallmarks in a holistic approach. Here, we determined the corresponding activity profile of bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, in an array of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies and compared it to retinol, currently considered as gold standard in topical antiageing cosmetics. - Methods : The antioxidative capacity and power of bakuchiol and retinol were analysed by measuring 2,2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) reduction via its absorption decay and electron spin resonance spectroscopy, respectively. Effects on prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), macrophage migration inhibitory factor (MIF), fibroblast growth factor 7 (FGF7), collagen type I and VII (COL1A1, COL7A1), fibronectin (FN) levels as well as the metabolization of water-soluble tetrazolium 1 (WST-1) were determined in human dermal fibroblasts. Epidermal regeneration was assessed utilizing an in vitro wound healing model. FN protein levels were analysed ex vivo after treatment with a formulation containing bakuchiol, retinol or vehicle using suction blister fluid. Skin condition improvement was determined in vivo in a split-face comparison study after application of bakuchiol or vehicle. - Results : In contrast to retinol, bakuchiol demonstrated high antioxidative efficacy. Levels of PGE2 and MIF were significantly decreased by both bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol but not retinol significantly increased FGF7 protein levels. WST-1 metabolization levels were significantly augmented by bakuchiol and retinol. Bakuchiol and retinol application led to a significant augmentation of COL1A1, COL7A1 and FN protein levels. Wounds supplemented with bakuchiol but not retinol displayed a significant increase in epidermis regeneration. Clinically, areas treated with a bakuchiol-containing formulation showed a statistically significant increase in FN protein values after a 4-week application compared to untreated areas and areas treated with vehicle. - Conclusion : These data provide evidence for the multidirectional efficacy of bakuchiol against cellular hallmarks of skin ageing. Its activity profile shares some common features with retinol but demonstrates several hitherto unknown biopositive effects in our studies, namely stimulation of the critical extracellular matrix component FN, and accelerated epidermal regeneration and wound healing. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test materials - In vitro studies - In vivo studies I and II - Study I : Ex vivo determination of FN protein levels - Study II : In vivo determination of skin condition improvement - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : In vitro studies - Study I: Ex vivo determination of FN protein levels - Study II : In vivo determination of skin condition improvement In vivo studies : Tolerability DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OjIAr7zsVF9vrJc0smRlFvAEIpWDsK46/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38137 [article]

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Cuticle - Designed by nature for the sake of the hair / Steven Breakspear in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 343-362 Titre : Cuticle - Designed by nature for the sake of the hair Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Steven Breakspear, Auteur ; Dimitri A. Ivanov, Auteur ; Bernd Noecker, Auteur ; Crisan Popescu, Auteur ; Martin Rosenthal, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 343-362 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allwörden, Réaction d' Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuticule Diffractométrie de rayons X Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The cuticle of human hair has been examined, via a range of analytical methods, in order to reveal previously unknown information about its structure and to deepen understanding of its contribution to fibre properties. - Methods : Cross-sections of hair fibre have been examined with X-ray microdiffraction oriented perpendicular to the surface of the cross-sections. AFM investigations were carried out for further investigating and deciphering the structure of the cuticle. Moisture sorption analytics of cuticle separated from fibre and mechanical tests of decuticled fibres against virgin fibres were used for understanding the role of the cuticle in the economy of hair fibre. - Results : Previously unknown swelling behaviour of the hair cuticle during moisture sorption has been revealed, as has an increased significance of the cuticle's role in moisture management at higher values of relative humidity. Through AFM investigation, the reaction of hair cuticles with chlorine water has further strengthened the idea that the Allwörden membrane does not exist, and is actually an artefact of the delamination of the A-layer and exocuticle from the underlying endocuticle. Using decuticled fibres for stress-strain tests, and by comparing the results with those of virgin fibres, the effect of the cuticle on the post-yield area of the hair fibre stress-strain diagram has also been demonstrated. Finally, X-ray microdiffraction and AFM investigations suggest that the cuticle possesses a small-scale ordered structure, based on possibly not fully crystalline and irregularly arranged α-helices oriented almost perpendicular to the growth axis of the fibre and enhancing the general description of cuticle as the protective layer of the fibre. - Conclusion : The role of the cuticle for the hair fibre is more complex than previously thought. The cuticle is demonstrated not only to possess a hidden rod-matrix structure, that supports its protective nature, but also to play specific roles in the fibre's response to moisture, and in fibre mechanical behaviour. Note de contenu : - METHODS AND MATERIALS : Materials - Treatment of the fibres - Analytical tools - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : The birth of cuticle - Morphology of the cuticle - Cuticle layers - Architecture of the cuticle - ROLE OF CUTICLE : Swelling and moisture management - Mechanics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12782 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18550p7loA6ry6JACwyFCk9ZIdFpyWBeR/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38138 [article]

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Evaluation of efficacy of antioxidant-enriched sunscreen prodcuts against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light / Eduardo Ruvolo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 394-402 Titre : Evaluation of efficacy of antioxidant-enriched sunscreen prodcuts against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Eduardo Ruvolo, Auteur ; Wyatt Boothby-Shoemaker, Auteur ; Nishant Kumar, Auteur ; Iltefat H. Hamzavi, Auteur ; Henry W. Lim, Auteur ; Indermeet Kohli, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 394-402 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cosmétiques Lumière visible Mélanogénèse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pigmentation, Troubles de la Produits antisolaires Rayonnement ultraviolet A Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The synergistic effects of VL and long wavelength UVA1 (VL + UVA1, 370–700 nm) on inducing pigmentation and erythema in skin have been demonstrated and linked to exacerbation of dermatologic conditions including melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This study aimed to compare the photoprotection of organic sunscreens enriched with antioxidant (AO) combinations against VL + UVA1 induced biologic effects. The efficacy was compared with that offered by a commercially available tinted sunscreen. - Methods : Ten healthy adult subjects with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV–VI were enrolled (nine completed). VL + UVA1 dose of 380 J/cm2 was utilized. Assessment methods were polarized photography, investigator global scoring and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS). Measurements were obtained at baseline and immediately, 24 h and 7 days after irradiation. - Results : Sites treated with tinted sunscreen product had significantly less pigmentation compared with untreated but irradiated skin at all time points. However, DRS results demonstrated that the 5-AO sunscreen performed comparably or better than all sunscreens tested with relatively lower dyschromia, delayed erythema and pigmentation. - Conclusion : These results highlight the potential of AO-enriched sunscreens to be photoprotective against VL + UVA1. The combination of efficacy and the cosmetic appearance of this product may provide wider acceptability which is crucial considering the limited available means of protection against this waveband. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Products tested - Table 2 : Description of Investigator’s Global Assessment scores for pigmentation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12785 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aEtsoNDvIoHpYk8bUwSKyFlzgO6d5GnB/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38139 [article]

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 44, N° 3 URL