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A leather with no downsides / Tom Hogarth in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 55 (09-10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 55 (09-10/2022) . - p. 24-27 Titre : A leather with no downsides Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tom Hogarth, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 24-27 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux de Poissons Cuirs exotiques Espèces animales invasives Rascasse volante Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Inversa is a company producing fish leather from the skins of invasive lionfish in the U.S. and the Caribbean and using it in its entirety, with the skins becoming leather. Founded by scuba divers who saw the seriousness of the problem first-hand, it's a company which has been dedicated to making a positive change from the start, and has brought this passion into its production, business partnerships and ethics. Note de contenu : - The lionfish problem - Getting into leather - Inside inversa - Principles of business En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HRSfuPFrVFCtxWbbWaZEQOudkdRV1uSl/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38114 [article]

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Pre-qualification in procurement / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 55 (09-10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 55 (09-10/2022) . - p. 30-32 Titre : Pre-qualification in procurement Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 30-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Approvisionnement dans l'entreprise Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie et commerce Déontologie professionnelle Relations clients-fournisseurs Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In the sales process, the buyer is looking for a supply of products or services and the seller either has those or does not. In the case of motivated buyers, they will usually find the product/service they are looking for and will rapidly move to close or will need additional information from the seller. In legitimate steps prior to the sale, it is not unusual for a buyer to ask a set of questions that will help clarify certain aspects of the sale - generally these pertain to whether the product/ service is exactly what the buyer is looking for and whether the cost is justified by the value of the sale. If the seller or their company is not well known, then the questions will be largely concerning the guarantee of supply or surrounding the nature of the business to try and establish a level of trust, especially as the value of the order increases. In high-value transactions, the seller and a member of the buying procurement team may illegitimately collude - bribery and corruption are rife at the forefront of procurement. A buying procurement team wants to have answers ready for how the supplier and buyers have policies and practices in place to prevent illegitimate practices. Ensuring that any underhanded business practice should be prevented as part of a proactive tactic rather than a retrospective recovery. Note de contenu : - From fark to fork - Procurement management systems - Pre-qualification vs pre-approval - Fig. 1 : The plan/do/check/act cycle common to many continuous improvement systems - Fig. 2 : The auditing cycle - Table 1 : Aspects of supplier detail En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KYO5lsu-hLUytybtV7EE02rK4Z5QcS_z/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38115 [article]

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Prototyping leather / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 55 (09-10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 55 (09-10/2022) . - p. 38-40 Titre : Prototyping leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 38-40 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Mode -- Créations Prototypage Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In the sales process, the buyer is looking for a supply of products or services and the seller either has those or does not. In the case of motivated buyers, they will usually find the product/service they are looking for and will rapidly move to close or will need additional information from the seller. The time it takes to innovate new features into leather is lengthy and the development window will range from a few weeks to often years, but the market need is for development time to be as short as possible. Tanneries that are focused on fashion¬oriented leathers will be expected to innovate rapidly on a development cycle that means the texture, colour and features will often need to be altered every six months: - Spring/Summer - Autumn (Fall) /Winter. The fashion houses are currently expecting a tannery to be working on fashion forecasts 18 months in advance. At the time of writing (Summer 2022), tanneries will be working on leathers that will meet the requirements of Autumn/Winter 2023 with an eye on Spring/Summer 2024. A slow prototyping cycle means that some tanneries could not even dream of entering this high-paced world because they do not have the irmovative skillsets or would not even have the budgets. Some market segments do not have such a high-paced development cycle and tend to have one range per year, or the development cycles are dependent on the launch of a new model of car (which could be 24-48 months). Other tanneries may only be interested in more practical considerations for developments - the research, development or innovation of a new leather is dependent on criteria that arise because a segment has said to make changes or lose the business. Note de contenu : - R&D or innovation and sample department - Additive and subtractive - Modelling - Fig. 1 : Step elimination is key to efficiencies - Fig. 2 : Understanding of what goes in and what goes out of leather En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m5VcY7q8NSbq_tURYtS7yOCKnu1F9wXN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38116 [article]

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Alternative materials to leather update 2022 / Karl Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 55 (09-10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 55 (09-10/2022) . - p. 64-70 Titre : Alternative materials to leather update 2022 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Flowers, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 64-70 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Composites Cuir reconstitué Enduction textile Textiles et tissus Tissés Tricot Tags : Cuir  'Matériaux  alternatifs' Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In the past, ILM has written about the latest alternative materials that were beginning to circulate with brands and manufacturers (Flowers, 2018). A myriad of new materials has flooded onto the market and early data suggests that, instead of them disrupting the leather market, they have in fact started impacting the 3.1 trillion sq m synthetic material market. In trying to copy leather, the leather alternative companies find that their consumers seem to identify with their materials more as synthetic materials, rather than genuine leather alternatives. Litre the altemative-to-meat market, the alternative materials just simply cannot seem to impress the final consumer and, as a result, their performance are stinging investors who cannot seem to draw out a dividend of these start-up companies due to falling share values and poor cash flows. The materials can be broadly categorised as follows : - Reconstituted leather composites - Materials that are woven, knitted or composited (with a coating, as the coating or without a coating) - Grown sheets (or grown and re-composited). The history of these materials goes back to the middle of the last century when materials were cast, calendared (formed between two rollers) or coated onto a textile underlay. The early materials were based on polyvinyl chloride and were usually coated onto a woven textile backing (for strength). Early materials were not breathable and were replaced in some instances with poromeric materials (materials that had deliberate pores impregnated into the structure). The use of leather fibre wastes was also inevitably going to see beneficiation into fabricated sheets that were bonded together to resemble genuine leathers. Coated, laminated and heavily finished leathers also meant that tanners could move low-grade materials through their factory. Foils, laminates and corrected grain finishes produced a range of synthetic-looking materials that blurred what the consumer could discern as leather or not. Note de contenu : - Reconstituted leather fibres - Woven/knitted/composites/coated textiles - Woven/knitted - Compositing - Misleading ingredient composition - Gown sheets (or grown and re-composited) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1genlk30WeHpT4cc-zaGmFyeAuQu5odlg/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38117 [article]

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Challenging times for kenyan tanners / Tom Hogarth in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 55 (09-10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 55 (09-10/2022) . - p. 72-78 Titre : Challenging times for kenyan tanners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tom Hogarth, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 72-78 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Kenya Tannage Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : Yassin Awale is a second-generation tanner who operates out of Kenya as well as Ethiopia. His business, Sagana Tanneries, was established in 1976 as, at the time, the only indigenously owned local tannery with Kenyans comprising ail of its shareholders, setting up surrounded by British-owned tanneries, some of which Awale explained were established for the production of military boots. By the early 1980s, the company had around five tanneries operational in Kenya, with the majority of them in and around the capital Nairobi. Awale himself took over in 1992 and has led the direction of the tannery business ever since. And it's a business which has had a tough environment to thrive in, with the Kenyan leather industry buffeted by an array of issues for the past few decades, culminating in the struggles of the Covid-19 pandemic that have been felt both in regional leather industries and around the world. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RYDmH_81e6QwkHVoAgWRotl8iVzMnEhb/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38118 [article]

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STEEP automotive forces / Inge Flowers in INTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM), N° 55 (09-10/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL LEATHER MAKER (ILM) > N° 55 (09-10/2022) . - p. 80-82 Titre : STEEP automotive forces Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Inge Flowers, Auteur ; Karl Flowers, Auteur ; Friedemann Schaber, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 80-82 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Assurance qualité Automobiles -- Industrie et Commerce Commerce Consommateurs -- Protection Déontologie professionnelle Entreprises -- Aspect moral Maroquinerie -- Industrie et commerce Responsabilité environnementale Responsabilité sociétale Traçabilité Travailleurs -- Protection Vente Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The initial price is the leading predictor of a sale. If a supplier is within a price bracket that the market determines, then the consumer will look to further whittle the product selection down using other factors. After the initial price requirement has been met, the buyer will look to see if minimum criteria are met — often called order pre-qualifying criteria. These qualifying criteria may be a product specification that must be met before a supplier can even get in the negotiation. A unique selling point (USP) is a me ans by which a seller can differentiate their offering from other companies and must appear on top of (not in place of) the minimum requirements — often called the order winning criteria. The automotive and leather goods markets have established newer qualifying criteria : - Performance (product specification) - Low environmental impacts - Traceability - Social protections (employees and consumers) - Safety due diligence - Responsible company governance. What are the individual and material USPs that are used to order win with product manufacturers and OEMs and their supply chains ? Note de contenu : - STEEP - Efficiency and cost optimisation - Leather as a sustinability and embedded technology leader - Fig. 1 : The STEEP model for automotive and leather goods showing future market clusters and drivers - Fig. 2 : Analysis of the STEEP model for automotive and leather goods showing future market drivers in relation to impact and uncertainty metrics - Fig. 3 : The framework of leather processing and collagenic fabrication - Fig. 4 : A saddle with force sensors wired to Arduino Micro Controller for force distribution mapping (with permission from Schaber, 2022) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lYHYh_L_iUFflSOCPMukkRR8PUSm5jmh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38119 [article]

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