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Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis / Roger L. McMullen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 375-390 Titre : Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; Donna Laura, Auteur ; Guojin Zhang, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 375-390 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Cocamidopropyl bétaine Cosmétiques Electrocinétique (effets d'interface) Gomme de guar La gomme de guar est extraite de la graine de la légumineuse Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, où elle sert de réserve d'aliments et d'eau. La gomme de guar est composée principalement de galactomannane, une fibre végétale soluble et acalorique. Le galactomannane est un polymère linéaire composé d'une chaine de monomères de mannose ((1,4)-beta-D-mannopyranose) auxquelles sont ramifiés par un pont 1-6 une unité de galactose. Le ratio entre le mannose et le galactose est de 2 pour 1, ainsi en moyenne une unité de galactose est ramifié tous les deux mannose sur la chaine. Par comparaison, il est de 4 pour 1 pour la gomme de caroube et 3 pour 1 pour la gomme tara. La gomme de guar est un additif alimentaire (E4124) largement utilisé dans l'industrie agro-alimentaire. Elle permet notamment d'alléger certaines préparations en remplaçant le rôle de l'amidon, de sucres ou de matières grasses. La gomme de guar est utilisée comme épaississant, stabilisant et émulsifiant dans les aliments grâce à sa texture uniforme et ses propriétés pour former des gels. Elle peut être utilisée dans les sauces, soupes, crèmes glacées et sorbets, produits de boulangerie et de pâtisserie, poudres, etc. Laureth sulfate de sodium Polymères cationiques Potentiel zeta shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined. - Methods : All experiments were carried out with a custom-designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real-time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)—commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations. - Results : The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium-28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair. - Conclusion : We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Cationic guar variants - Electrokinetic permeability analysis - Mechanical measurements of combing force - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Zeta potential of hair - Hair treated with a conventional cationic surfactant - Hair treated with a conventional cationic copolymer - Hair treated with cationic guar - Influence of CD and MW on cationic guar deposition - Mechanical wet combing analysis of hair treated with cationic guar derivatives - Behaviour of cationic guar on different types of hair - Conductivity and pH of the streaming potential solution - Table 1 : Viscosity, CD, trade name and designation of the cationic guar variants investigated in this study. Unless otherwise indicated, viscosity measurements were conducted on 1% (w/w) solutions of the polymers - Table 2 : Calculated thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer according to Equation 2. Data are provided in µm DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12704 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15-tN68MsY8ahVox5SPuPv9GtRrHcxCcC/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36673 [article]

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Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 391-404 Titre : Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Corinne Jeanjean-Miquel, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Maité Noizet, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 391-404 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Glucoside de tocophéryle Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxothiazolidine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Produits antisolaires Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. - Methods : After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. - Results : The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. - Conclusion : These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Reconstructed skin models - Application of the sunscreens - Skin irradiation - Penetration and metabolism using reconstructed skin models - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response in RHE models - Data handling and analyses - RESULTS : Skin penetration of 14C-OTZ and 14C-DTG equivalents - Formation and distribution of metabolites - Antioxidant properties of OTZ and DTG - MDA - SOD - Catalyse DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12705 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dMEd-TG9S7X1oIiAhI9cz-n490m132CR/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36674 [article]

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Artificial Intelligence in hair research : A proof-of-concept study on evaluating hair assembly features / Gabriela Daniels in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 405-418 Titre : Artificial Intelligence in hair research : A proof-of-concept study on evaluating hair assembly features Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Gabriela Daniels, Auteur ; Slobodanka Tamburic, Auteur ; Sergio Benini, Auteur ; Jane Randall, Auteur ; Tracey Sanderson, Auteur ; Mattia Savardi, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 405-418 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Apprentissage automatique L'apprentissage automatique (en anglais : machine learning, litt. "apprentissage machine"), apprentissage artificiel ou apprentissage statistique est un champ d'étude de l'intelligence artificielle qui se fonde sur des approches mathématiques et statistiques pour donner aux ordinateurs la capacité d'"apprendre" à partir de données, c'est-à-dire d'améliorer leurs performances à résoudre des tâches sans être explicitement programmés pour chacune. Plus largement, il concerne la conception, l'analyse, l'optimisation, le développement et l'implémentation de telles méthodes. (Wikipedia) Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux décolorés Détection de défauts (Ingénierie) Intelligence artificielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The first objective of this study was to apply computer vision and machine learning techniques to quantify the effects of haircare treatments on hair assembly and to identify correctly whether unknown tresses were treated or not. The second objective was to explore and compare the performance of human assessment with that obtained from artificial intelligence (AI) algorithms. - Methods : Machine learning was applied to a data set of hair tress images (virgin and bleached), both untreated and treated with a shampoo and conditioner set, aimed at increasing hair volume whilst improving alignment and reducing the flyway of the hair. The automatic quantification of the following hair image features was conducted : local and global hair volumes and hair alignment. These features were assessed at three time points: t0 (no treatment), t1 (two treatments) and t2 (three treatments). Classifier tests were applied to test the accuracy of the machine learning. A sensory test (paired comparison of t0 vs t2) and an online front image-based survey (paired comparison of t0 vs t1, t1 vs t2, t0 vs t2) were conducted to compare human assessment with that of the algorithms. - Results : The automatic image analysis identified changes to hair volume and alignment which enabled the successful application of the classification tests, especially when the hair images were grouped into untreated and treated groups. The human assessment of hair presented in pairs confirmed the automatic image analysis. The image assessment for both virgin hair and bleached only partially agreed with the analysis of the subset of images used in the online survey. One hypothesis is that treatments changed somewhat the shape of the hair tress, with the effect being more pronounced in bleached hair. This made human assessment of flat images more challenging than when viewed directly in 3D. Overall, the bleached hair exhibited effects of higher magnitude than the virgin hair. - Conclusions : This study illustrated the capacity of artificial intelligence for hair image detection and classification, and for image analysis of hair assembly features following treatments. The human assessment partially confirmed the image analysis and highlighted the challenges imposed by the presentation mode. Note de contenu : - Hair assembly volume, alignment and flyaway - Hair assembly properties and Artificial Intelligence - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair tresses and treatment - Image dataset - Automatic hair segmentation - Automatic quantification of hair assembly features - Timepoint recognition on single hair images with AI - Online paired image-comparison test with naïve assessors (n = 100) - Paired difference test with naïve assessors )n = 50) - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Hair volume analysis - Fibre alignment analysis - Machine learning: treatment order test - Machine learning : timepoint recognition - Online paired image-comparison test : image analysis - Online paired image-comparison test : human assessment - Visual paired difference test - DISCUSSION : Image data analysis and machine learning - Classifiers tests - The online survey and AI - Visual paired difference test - Table 1 : Global and local hair volumes for the three time points of the training data set - Table 2 : Fibre alignment indices for three time points of the training data set - Table 3 : Confusion matrices. Correct results in bold - Table 4 : Results of the online paired image-comparison test - Table 5 : Fibre alignment indices for the selected image subset used in the online survey, based on three images for each tress - Table 6 : Results of the online paired image-comparison test - Table 7 : Volume and hair straightness comparisons between the different time points reported in the survey (Table 6) and their agreement with AI-generated GHV - Table 8 : Results of the visual paired difference test (n = 50 responses) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12706 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RnhXaRtILFJxcQM1zyk09SH7pQcXM1Mh/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36675 [article]

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Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid / Milica Lukic in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 419-431 Titre : Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin – Contribution of glycolic acid Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Milica Lukic, Auteur ; Mila Filipovic, Auteur ; Nevena Pajic, Auteur ; Dominique Lunter, Auteur ; Dragana Bozic, Auteur ; Snezana Savic, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 419-431 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide glycolique L'acide glycolique (ou acide hydroxyacétique) est le plus petit des acides α-hydroxylés (AHA). L'acide glycolique est obtenu à partir d'extrait de canne à sucre, de betterave ou de raisin. Grâce à son excellente capacité à pénétrer la peau, l'acide glycolique est très utilisé dans les produits de soins pour la peau, le plus souvent dans les peelings. Toxicité : L'acide glycolique peut être très irritant selon les niveaux de pH5. Il peut être irritant pour la peau, les yeux ou les voies respiratoires6. Comme l'éthylène glycol, il est métabolisé à l'acide oxalique, ce qui peut le rendre dangereux s'il est ingéré. Alkyl polyglycosides Analyse thermique Antimicrobiens Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Microscopie Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH -- Mesure Rhéologie Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH. - Methods : Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis. - Results : Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles’ lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration. - Conclusions : Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of samples - pH measurement - Polarization microscopy - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy - Thermal analysis - Rheological measurements - In vivo effect on pH of the skin - Antimicrobial activity - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Polarization microscopy - Raman spectral imaging - Thermal analysis - Rheological measurements - Effects on skin pH - Antimicrobial activity - Table 1 : Composition of investigated samples - Table 2 : Percentage water loss* values over the specified temperature ranges for investigated creams ; results are presented as mean ± standard deviation - Table 3 : Antimicrobial activity of investigated samples on growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12707 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ruzRNTSy53G8OxUF8Gvow7OmBWPBcs0h/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36676 [article]

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Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams / Claire Bordes in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 432-445 Titre : Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Claire Bordes, Auteur ; Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Auteur ; Myriam El Achak, Auteur ; Fabrice Pirot, Auteur ; Delphine Arquier, Auteur ; Géraldine Agusti, Auteur ; Yves Chevalier, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 432-445 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation Composés inorganiques Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Emulsions pickering Evaluation Facteur de protection solaire Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Nanoparticules Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO2 and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant-free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied. - Methods : The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a ‘model’ oil phase, the C12-C15 alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica-coated TiO2 NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO2 NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant-free sunscreen emulsion. - Results : Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled by the solid NPs content with respect to oil and the emulsification process. Hydrophilic TiO2 NPs did not allow the stabilization of emulsions. The substitution of TiO2 for ZnO up to 60–70 wt% in a 20/80 o/w emulsion was successfully performed. Finally, a ZnO/TiO2 NP mixture was tested as unique emulsifier system for the formulation of a sunscreen cream. Despite a lower viscosity, the obtained Pickering emulsion was stable and exhibited a photoprotective effect similar to the corresponding surfactant-based sunscreen cream with an in vitro SPF of about 45. - Conclusion : Surfactant-free Pickering emulsions can be stabilized by the UV-filter nanoparticles for the manufacture of sunscreen products. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of Pickering emulsions - Preparation of commercial-like sunscreen formulations - Characterization of nanoparticle suspensions - Characterization of Pickering emulsions - Characterization of sunscreen formulations - In vitro SPF determination and photostability evaluation - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Pickering emulsions - Pickering emulsions prepared with ZnO NPs - Preparation of Pickering emulsions - Pickering emulsions prepared with a mixture of ZnO and TiO2 NPs - Application of Pickering emulsions to the development of a surfactant-free sunscreen formulation - Table 1 : Composition of the commercial-like sunscreen formulation - Table 2 : Composition of the surfactant-free (SF) sunscreen formulation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12709 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cn3OIlm6GeCvTgJ_-Q17I_S_nVoRFNNR/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36677 [article]

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Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners / Hardlife Rambwawasvika in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 446-457 Titre : Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi-permanents and hair conditioners Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hardlife Rambwawasvika, Auteur ; Pamhidzai Dzomba, Auteur ; Luke Gwatidzo, Auteur ; Haleden Chiririwa, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 446-457 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits capillaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet shampooings Stress oxydatif Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi-permanent waving and hair conditioning. - Methods : The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio-semi-permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance–Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR-FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer. - Results : The extract antioxidant had an IC50 of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG-treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair. - Conclusion : The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi-permanent curling. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Collection and preparation of plant material - Isolation and identification of the antioxidants - Antioxidant assay for extracts - Formulation of a bio-semi-permanent and antioxidant conditioner - Analysis of hair damage after treatment - Statistical analysis of data - RESULTS : Detection and assaying for antioxidant with DPPH - Antioxidant assaying using ferric reducing power method - Ring test for hair curling performance - Determination of oxidative damage by ATR-FTIR - Assay for hydrolysable amino acids on treated hair samples - Protection of hair against UV radiation by antioxidant conditioner (AC) - Table 1 : Important bands for cystine derivatives and their characteristic vibrational wavenumbers - Table 2 : Treatments given to hair samples - Table 3 : Oxidative damage peak area after chemical treatment - Table 4 : Amount of protein lost by hair in different treatments - Table 5 : Hair oxidative damage expressed as cysteic acid peak area after both chemical treatment and irradiation with UV light DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12719 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1krMOCFzvySkX0kXPgSOVnh7zB6whzAT9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36678 [article]

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Stringiness of hyaluronic acid emulsions / Heleen V. M. Kibbelaar in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 458-465 Titre : Stringiness of hyaluronic acid emulsions Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Heleen V. M. Kibbelaar, Auteur ; Antoine Deblais, Auteur ; Krassimir P. Velikov, Auteur ; Daniel Bonn, Auteur ; Noushine Shahidzadeh, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 458-465 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Filaments Fibre de longueur infinie ou extrême comme celle qu'on trouve dans la soie à l'état naturel. Les fibres manufacturées sont extrudées en filaments qui sont transformés en fils continus, en fibres courtes ou en câbles. Filature Hyaluronique, acide L'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux. Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique. Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale. Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia) Ingrédients cosmétiques Poids moléculaires Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cosmetic emulsions containing hyaluronic acid are ubiquitous in the cosmetic industry. However, the addition of (different molecular weight) hyaluronic acid can affect the filament stretching properties of concentrated emulsions. This property is often related to the "stringiness" of an emulsion, which can affect the consumer's choice for a product. It is thus very important to investigate and predict the effect of hyaluronic acid on the filament stretching properties of cosmetic emulsions. - Methods : Model emulsions and emulsions with low and high molecular weights are prepared and their filament stretching properties are studied by the use of an extensional rheometer. Two different stretching speeds are employed during the stretching of the emulsions, a low speed at 10 µm/s and a high speed at 10 mm/s. The shear rheology of the samples is measured by rotational rheology. - Results : We find that filament formation only occurs at high stretching speeds when the emulsion contains high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. The formation of this filament, which happens at intermediate states of the break-up, coincides with an exponential decay in the break-up dynamics. The beginning and end of the break-up of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid emulsions show a power law behaviour, where the exponent depends on the initial stretching rate. At a lower stretching speed, no filament is observed for both high molecular weight and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid emulsions and the model emulsion. The emulsions show a power law behaviour over the whole break-up range, where the exponent also depends on the stretching rate. No significant difference is observed between the shear flow properties of the emulsions containing different molecular weights hyaluronic acid. - Conclusion : In this work, we underline the importance of the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid on the elongational properties of concentrated emulsions. The filament formation properties, for example the stringiness, of an emulsion is a key determinant of a product liking and repeat purchase. Here, we find that high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and a high stretching speed are the control parameters affecting the filament formation of an emulsion. Note de contenu : - Extensional rheology - Shear rheology - Emulsion preparation - Confocal microscopy DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12711 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fnpR6tK1KgP14XvFnRV9wW8J7MGhOwAX/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36681 [article]

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Towards data-driven quantification of skin ageing using reflectance confocal microscopy / Samuel C. Hames in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 466-473 Titre : Towards data-driven quantification of skin ageing using reflectance confocal microscopy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Samuel C. Hames, Auteur ; Andrew P. Bradley, Auteur ; Marco Ardigo, Auteur ; H. Peter Soyer, Auteur ; Tarl W. Prow, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 466-473 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image. Dermatologie Evaluation Microscopie confocale Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Introduction : Evaluation of skin ageing is a non-standardized, subjective process, with typical measures relying coarse, qualitatively defined features. Reflectance confocal microscopy depth stacks contain indicators of both chrono-ageing and photo-ageing. We hypothesize that an ageing scale could be constructed using machine learning and image analysis, creating a data-driven quantification of skin ageing without human assessment. Methods : En-face sections of reflectance confocal microscopy depth stacks from the dorsal and volar forearm of 74 participants (36/18/20 training/testing/validation) were represented using a histogram of visual features learned using unsupervised clustering of small image patches. A logistic regression classifier was trained on these histograms to differentiate between stacks from 20- to 30-year-old and 50- to 70-year-old volunteers. The probabilistic output of the logistic regression was used as the fine-grained ageing score for that stack in the testing set ranging from 0 to 1. Evaluation was performed in two ways: on the test set, the AUC was collected for the binary classification problem as well as by statistical comparison of the scores for age and body site groups. Final validation was performed by assessing the accuracy of the ageing score measurement on 20 depth stacks not used for training or evaluating the classifier. Results : The classifier effectively differentiated stacks from age groups with a test set AUC of 0.908. Mean scores were significantly different when comparing age groups (mean 0.70 vs. 0.44; t = −6.62, p = 0.0000) and also when comparing stacks from dorsal and volar body sites (mean 0.64 vs. 0.53; t = 3.12, p = 0.0062). On the final validation set, 17 out of 20 depth stacks were correctly labelled. Discussion : Despite being limited to only coarse training information in the form of example stacks from two age groups, the trained classifier was still able to effectively discriminate between younger skin and older skin. Curiously, despite being only trained with chronological age, there was still evidence for measurable differences in age scores due to sun exposure—with marked differences in scores on sun-exposed dorsal sites of some volunteers compared with less sun-exposed volar sites. These results suggest that fine-grained data-driven quantification of skin ageing is achievable. Note de contenu : - Data collections - Image representation and skin ageing classifier training - Test set evaluation - Final validation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12720 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HGwYSakgC3DrgHndSDLELxXAApUVrVHL/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36682 [article]

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Role of pH in skin cleansing / Stacy Hawkins in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 474-483 Titre : Role of pH in skin cleansing Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Stacy Hawkins, Auteur ; Bivash R. Dasgupta, Auteur ; Kavssery P. Ananthapadmanabhan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 474-483 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Douceur (toucher) Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydratation Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène pH Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The importance of maintaining the acid-mantle of human stratum corneum to maintain its healthy barrier and skin’s biological functions such as desquamation and lipid biosynthesis is well recognized in the literature. An outcome of this has been an increase in the number of skincare products formulated at or near the skin pH with an implication that a product formulated at skin pH will be good for skin. Such an assumption often does not take into account the specific interactions of ingredients in the product with the stratum corneum under skin pH conditions. - Objective : The objective of this research was to determine whether a skin cleansing product by virtue of its pH being same as "skin pH" is milder to skin. - Methods : A well established Forearm Controlled Application Test (FCAT) protocol was used in clinical studies to compare “skin pH” cleansing systems with neutral pH cleansing systems. Specifically, certain commercially available “skin pH” cleansing bars were compared with a neutral pH syndet bar in two separate FCAT studies. Since these bars differed in their surfactant composition, in a separate FCAT study, two identical prototype bar formulations differed only in their pH were compared. Additionally, two body wash liquid prototypes, identical in composition but differing only in their pH were also compared in another FCAT study. - Results : The results obtained showed that skin-cleansing systems formulated solely or predominantly with anionic surfactants under skin pH conditions can result in increased skin dryness and irritation compared to those under neutral pH conditions. The results are explained in terms of the increased electrostatic interaction of anionic surfactants with stratum corneum under low pH conditions compared to neutral pH conditions. - Conclusion : Skin-cleansing systems formulated solely or predominantly with anionic surfactants under skin pH conditions can result in increased skin dryness and irritation compared to those under neutral pH conditions. Any skin cleansing product by virtue of its pH being same as that of "skin pH" does not guarantee that it will be good for skin. The mildness of a cleanser will be determined by the interactions of its surfactants and other ingredients with stratum corneum under its formulated pH conditions. Note de contenu : - BACKGROUND : Stratum corneum pH and biological processes in skin - pH and skin cleansing - METHODS AND MATERIALS : Materials - Methods - RESULTS : Effect of pH of an acidic syndet bar compared to a neutral pH syndet bar in forearm controlled application test (FCAT) - Effect of pH of two acidic syndet bars with a neutral pH syndet bar in forearm controlled application test (FCAT) - Effect of pH of two SLES 1 EO based body wash formulations in FCAT - Table 1 : Products used in the present investigation DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12721 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w4OzfTC5uVl8qUbROigHCN6SUcEwkxe0/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36683 [article]

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Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick / Briana Maktabi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 484-493 Titre : Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Matthew W. Liberatore, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 484-493 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie) Cosmétiques Couleur Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Limnanthe et constituants Maquillage Rouges à lèvres Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Green and sustainable trends are growing and with that the demand for naturally derived ingredients is rising. Dispersing agents are essential components of lipsticks due to their ability to wet pigment particles, reduce agglomerates and prevent re-agglomeration by stabilizing pigment particles. In this study, meadowfoam seed oil was evaluated as a pigment-dispersing agent for lipsticks and compared with castor oil and octyldodecanol. - Methods : Dispersions of Red 7 Lake were formulated with 20, 30 and 40% solid content using castor oil, octyldodecanol or meadowfoam seed oil. Particle size, viscosity, spreadability, wetting, oil absorption and colour were measured. Four of the nine dispersions were then formulated into lipsticks, including all the 30% pigment dispersions and the 40% dispersion with meadowfoam seed oil. Lipsticks were tested for hardness, pay-off, friction, rheology, colour and stability for 4 weeks. - Results : Average particle size was between 6 and 9 µm across the dispersions. The castor oil dispersions were more viscous, stickier and harder to spread than the other dispersions. The wetting contact angle was very low for all three dispersing agents, indicating that all of the oils wet the pigment well. The lipsticks varied in hardness, as expected, based on differences in the viscosity of the dispersing agents, and oil absorption of the powder. Red 7 Lake absorbed the highest amount of castor oil, which contributed to higher stick hardness. The castor oil lipstick and the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment were the hardest and most elastic. The octyldodecanol lipstick was the softest. Friction was the lowest for the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment, while pay-off was the highest for the octyldodecanol lipstick. The colour of the lipsticks as a stick and after being spread on paper was very similar. - Conclusion : While the chemical composition and physicochemical properties of the dispersing agents were different, all three dispersing agents studied formed dispersions and lipsticks with appropriate characteristics. Meadowfoam seed oil's performance was qualitatively and quantitatively similar to castor oil and octyldodecanol. By modifying the amount of pigment and dispersing agent used, lipsticks that have similar characteristics to commercial products can be formulated. Note de contenu : - Materials - Methods—Pigment dispersions - Methods—Lipsticks - Results—Pigment dispersions - Results—Part II : Lipsticks - Table 1 : Red 7 Lake dispersions made in this study - Table 2 : Lipstick formula - Table 3 : Firmness, stickiness, viscosity and colour of the dispersions - Table 4 : Viscosity of dispersing agents, oil absorption of Red 7 Lake and contact angle (n = 3) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12724 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uzbFy-4hbz4dUPtJe5ucx5OikMeTIXJ9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36684 [article]

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