An integrated eco-friendly tanning method for the manufacture of upper leathers from goatskins / Subramanian Saravanabhavan in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 87, N° 4 (07-08/2003)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 87, N° 4 (07-08/2003) . - p. 149-158 Titre : An integrated eco-friendly tanning method for the manufacture of upper leathers from goatskins Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Subramanian Saravanabhavan, Auteur ; Rathinam Aravindhan, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur ; Jonnalagadda Raghava Rao, Auteur ; Balachandran Unni Nair, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 149-158 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Coût-Efficacité Cuir -- teneur en chrome Cuirs et peaux de chèvres Déchets -- Réduction Eau -- Consommation -- Réduction Eaux usées -- Analyse Epilage enzymatique Tannage au chrome Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Present leather-making processes cause difficulties, with regard to their perceived environmental impact. Pre-tanning and tanning processes contribute more than 90% of the total pollution load from leather processing. Conventional process methods subject the skin to wide variations in pH. Such pH changes, lead to salt formation which results in a net increase in COD, TDS, chlorides, sulphates and chromium levels in tannery wastewaters. In this study, a three-step process sequence has been explored to limit the pH range in leather processing to between 4.0-8.0. A sequence of operations, viz. enzyme unhairing, NaOH based fibre opening and pickle-less chrome tanning produces leathers matching the functional performance of conventionally processed leathers but leading to substantial environmental benefits in the reduction of COD and total solids by 43 and 70%, respectively. Water consumption for processing is reduced to 17.81/Kg raw hide. The process sequence explored appears to be economically viable. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : - Standardisation of dehairing process - Standardisation of opening up of fibre bundles - Experimental tanning process (E) - Conventional tanning process (C, as followed in India) - EXAMINATION OF THE LEATHERS : - Input-output analysis - Scanning electron microscopic examination - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : - Standardisation of dehairing system - Standardisation of NaOH for opening up of fibre bundles - INTEGRATED THREE STEP TANNING PROCESS : AN APPRAISAL - Softness measurements - Scanning electron microscopic analysis - Chromium in leather - OBJECTIVE AND SUBJECTIVE METHODS OF EVALUATION OF THE LEATHER - Strength characteristics - Tactile properties - Environmental benefits - Techno-economic viability - INPUT-OUTPUT AUDIT OF THE EXPERIMENTAL AND CONTROL PROCESS control process - Table 1 : Composition of depilatory mixture* for different methods of application - Table 2 : Extent of swelling and cross section pH of the pelts from preliminary fibre opening trials - Table 3 : Compression measurement and gradient data for control (C) and experimental (E) crust Leathers - Table 4 : Comparison of chromium content in wet blue leathers from control (C) and experimental (E) processes - Table 5 : Physical testing data of control (C) and experimental (E) leathers - Table 6 : Composite liquor analysis - Table 7 : Comparison of water requirement and discharge for control (C) and experimental (E) leather processing of 1 kg raw skins - Table 8 : Time and power consumption for the conventional (C) and experimental tanning (E) processes - Table 9 : Cost estimates of the conventional (C) and experimental tanning (E) processes - Table 10 : Input-output audit for both control and experimental process En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jxj7vQuxr9IAA_lOPXzd04eZ-44Kkiva/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39771 [article]

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Effect of chromium and tanning method on the drape of goat suede apparel leathers / K. Krishnaraj in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CV, N° 3 (03/2010)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CV, N° 3 (03/2010) . - p. 71-77 Titre : Effect of chromium and tanning method on the drape of goat suede apparel leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 71-77 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux de chèvres Tannage au chrome Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : Tanning stabilizes the skin matrix permanently and is considered as the heart of leather processing. In commercial practice, vegetable and chrome tanning methods are widely employed. Between these two methods, chrome tanning is the most commonly used tanning method. Hence, it is logical to study the relationship between the chromium content and drape related properties of garment leathers. In this study, the bending length and drape parameters were measured for goat suede leathers with different chromium contents and analyzed. The goat suede leathers were prepared in three different ways namely full chrome (FC), semi chrome (SC) and full vegetable (FV) methods. Whereas FC and FV goat suede leathers had increasing drape coefficient values, the drape coefficient for SC goat suede leathers was the lowest in the range of 35.1±7.2 %. Further, softness, bending length and number of nodes for SC goat suede leathers were statistically superior in the stand point of drape ability compared to FC and FV goat suede leathers. Hence, it is validated that the semi chrome goat suede leathers possess better drape ability compared to full chrome as well as full vegetable goat suede leathers. Consequently, the presence of chromium in the leathers plays a major role in the draping ability of goat suede apparel leathers ; however, it is also infered that more amount of chromium in the leathers (FC) did not yield better drape ability. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JgOhogXe-emjSdEt5tW24YniW_hopZPc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8732 [article]

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Factors influencing the seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers / K. Phebe in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CVII, N° 3 (03/2012)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CVII, N° 3 (03/2012) . - p. 78-84 Titre : Factors influencing the seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Phebe, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 78-84 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuir -- Couture Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de chèvres Vêtements en cuir Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Apparel making is the process of making shell structures from flat fabrics or leathers to match the shape of human body. During this process, leathers are subjected to various types of mechanical stresses, which are indispensable for the garment appearance. The present study involves investigating the mechanical properties of goat nappa leathers such as seam strength, breaking strength, seam efficiency, tensile strength, percent elongation, double hole stitch tear strength, flexural rigidity, initial tensile modulus and formability and establishing a relationship between seam efficiency and other mechanical properties. Seam efficiency of goat nappa leathers chosen in this study range from 55 to 76% in both parallel and perpendicular directions to the backbone. It has been observed that breaking strength of goat nappa leathers seems to have a significant influence on seam efficiency among the various mechanical properties studied with a negative correlation (R = –0.92). This means that modifications in fatliquoring and other related leather processing steps may offer low strength goat nappa leathers with more softness leading to enhanced seam efficiency. These results would help tanners and leather garment manufacturers to make appropriate selection of leather processing steps and sewing procedures, thereby avoiding possible economic losses. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Flexural rigidity - Tensile strength and extension - Initial tensile modulus - Formability - Seam strength - Breaking strength - Stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Seam efficiency - Seam efficiency versus seam strength - Seam efficiency versus breaking strength - Seam efficiency versus tensile properties - Seam efficiency versus stitch tear strength (double hole - Seam efficiency versus flexural rigidity - Seam efficiency versus initial tensile modulus - Seam efficiency versus formability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKg-3bnD_ZNoxOtM2mjRl49IFV3RUpjG/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14419 [article]

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Henna–aluminum combination tannage : a greener alternative tanning system / A. E. Musa in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CVI, N° 6 (06/2011)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CVI, N° 6 (06/2011) . - p. 190-199 Titre : Henna–aluminum combination tannage : a greener alternative tanning system Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. E. Musa, Auteur ; Rathinam Aravindhan, Auteur ; Balaraman Madhan, Auteur ; Jonnalagadda Raghava Rao, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 190-199 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse Sulfate d'aluminium Tannage combiné Le tannage combiné se dit des tannages qui allient deux familles ou genre de tannage pour obtenir un résultat additionnant les qualités complémentaires des tannins mis en Å“uvre par exemple Chrome-Végétal ou Chrome-Synthétique Tannage minéral Tannage dans lequel interviennent différents minéraux. Le plus répandu est le tannage aux sels de chrome, mais aussi à l’aluminium Tannage végétal Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Development of cleaner technologies for leather manufacture is imperative for the sustenance of the tanning industry. In the present study, a combination tanning system based on a henna-aluminum tannage for the production of upper leathers as a cleaner alternative is presented. Extract from the leaves of widely distributed Lawsonia inerims (Henna) from Sudan has been evaluated for its tanning characteristics in a combination tanning system based on henna and aluminum sulfate. Aluminum-henna (Al-henna) leathers tanned using 2% Al2O3; followed by 20% henna resulted in shrinkage temperature above 95°C. The uptake of henna in henna-Al tanning system with henna (20%) followed by aluminum (2% Al2O3) has been found to be better than the tanning system of Al-henna. These leathers showed compact fibre structure, indicating that the tanning process did not bring about any major change or destruction on the fibre structure of the leathers. Surface colour values of henna-Al leathers resulted in darker shades with less red and more yellow components in the crust leathers. The combination tanning system provides significant reduction in the discharge of total dissolved solids in the wastewater. Henna-Al combination tanning system resulted in leathers with good organoleptic and strength properties. The work presented in this paper established the use of henna and aluminum combination tanning system as an effective alternative cleaner tanning methodology. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Materials - Aqueous extraction of tannins from henna leaves - Preparation of basic aluminum sulfate solution - Henna and aluminum combination tannage - Measurement of hydrothermal stability of leathers - Physical testing and hand evaluation of leathers - Measurement of softness in leathers - Scanning electron microscopic analysis of leather samples - Analysis of spent liquors from tanning trials - Analysis of exhaustion of tanning spent liquors - Color measurements of control and experimental leathers - Evaluation of chemical constituents in leathers. - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Optimization of combination tanning system using henna and aluminum - Performance of leathers organoleptic properties of leathers - Strength characteristics of experimental and control crust leathers - Softness measurements of henna-Al tanning system - Scanning electron microscopic analysis of leather samples - Reflectance measurements - Effect of surface color on control and experimental leathers - Chemical analysis of the crust leather - Environmental tolerability and spent liquor analysis. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gf6K3aai4yAs469aF02XfUDmHP8G4M0Z/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=11718 [article]

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Influence of mechanical properties of sheep nappa leathers on seam efficiency / K. Phebe in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 95, N° 1 (01-02/2011)  

[article]  inJOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 95, N° 1 (01-02/2011) . - p. 16-22 Titre : Influence of mechanical properties of sheep nappa leathers on seam efficiency Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : K. Phebe, Auteur ; Palanisamy Thanikaivelan, Auteur ; K. Krishnaraj, Auteur ; B. Chandrasekaran, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 16-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contraintes (mécanique) Cuir -- Couture Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux de moutons Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Sewability is one of the essential parameters influencing the garment making process as well as the quality of the final product. In this work, sewability of sheep nappa leathers was measured in terms of seam efficiency and was correlated with related mechanical properties. Seam efficiency was found to be between 44 and 99 % for the sheep nappa leathers employed in this study. Among the various mechanical properties studied, elongation at break seems to influence the seam efficiency significantly as evidenced from the correlation coefficient value of 0.99. While tensile strength and seam strength aslo had fairly good relation with seam efficiency with correlation coefficient values greater than or equal to 0.90. Formability, breaking strength and stitch tear strength (double hole) exhibited a correlation coefficient of >-0.80 with seam efficiency, indicating a high dependency. While most of these parameters had direct relation with seam efficiency, indicating a high dependency. While most of these parameters had direct relation with seam efficiency, initial tensile modulus had an inverse relation. Flexural rigidity did not show any significant relation with seam efficiency. The results obtained in this study would form a basis for designing and fabricating of leather garments. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL METHODS : Materials - TEST METHODS : Flexural rigidity - Fabric tensile strength and elongation at break - Initial tensile modulus - Formability - Seam strength - Breaking strength - Stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency. - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Seam efficiency - Seam efficiency versus seam strength - Seam efficiency versus stitch tear strength (double hole) - Seam efficiency versus breaking strength - Seam efficiency versus tensile strength - Seam efficiency versus percentage elongation at break - Seam efficiency versus flexural rigidity - Seam efficiency versus initial tensile modulus - Seam efficiency versus formability. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12GhBwNaV4lpEj1zi_pn3PAEp-2JOWx3i/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10818 [article]

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Influence of sewing threads on seam pucker of sheep nappa leathers / G. Woynshet in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 98, N° 4 (07-08/2014)  

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Influence of test length on the observed tensile properties of upholstery leather : Relation to weak link theory / Palanisamy Thanikaivelan in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CII, N° 1 (01/2007)  

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Interior leathers : application of leather as a functional and decorative finish / Palanisamy Thanikaivelan in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. XCVI, N° 1 (01/2001)  

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Measurement and correlation of drape coefficient and related mechanical properties of cow nappa apparel leathers / K. Krishnaraj in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 94, N° 5 (09-10/2010)  

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Mechanical properties of sheep nappa leather influencing drape / K. Krishnaraj in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CIII, N° 7 (07/2008)  

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A new leather-making process for meeting eco-label standards : Processing of goatkins / Subramani Saravanabhavan in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CI, N° 5 (05/2006)  

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Physico-chemical and structural studies on leathers tanned using high exhaust basic chromium sulphate salt / Jonnalagadda Raghava Rao in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. XCIII, N° 5 (07/1998)

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Phytoremediation of tannery wastewater treated lands : Part I : accumulation of Na+ and Ci- IN Salicornia Brachiata / P. Ramesh Kannan in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 93, N° 6 (11-12/2009)  

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Phytoremediation of tannery wastewater treated lands : Part II : Using harvested Salicornia Brachiata plants for the preservation of sheepskins / P. Ramesh Kannan in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 93, N° 6 (11-12/2009)  

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Relation between drape and mechanical properties of goat suede garment leathers / K. Krishnaraj in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 93, N° 1 (01-02/2009)  

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Single step hair removal and fiber opening process : Simultaneous and successive addition of protease and a-amyiase / Palanisamy Thanikaivelan in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CI, N° 11 (11/2006)  

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Studies on combination tanning based on henna and oxazolidine / A. E. Musa in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CIV, N° 10 (10/2009)  

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Studies on selective defect identification of crust leathers for computer-aided grading / S. Nithiyanantha Vasagam in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CVIII, N° 6 (06/2013)  

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Studies on the development of leathers from formaldehyde-free melamine syntan / Swarna Vinodh Kanth in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CVII, N° 5 (05/2012)  

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Studies on the henna-glutaraldehyde combination tanning system / A. E. Musa in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CVI, N° 3 (03/2011)  

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