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Deformable liposomes as enhancer of caffeine penetration through human skin in a Franz diffusion cell test / E. Abd J. Gomes in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 1-10 Titre : Deformable liposomes as enhancer of caffeine penetration through human skin in a Franz diffusion cell test Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : E. Abd J. Gomes, Auteur ; C. C. Sales, Auteur ; S. Yousef, Auteur ; F. Forouz, Auteur ; K. C. Telaprolu, Auteur ; M. S. Roberts, Auteur ; J. E. Grice, Auteur ; P. S. Lopes, Auteur ; V. R. Leite-Silva, Auteur ; N. Andréo‐Filho, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 1-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Caféine Essais (technologie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Liposomes Pénétration (physique) Perméation Polypropylène glycol Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The permeation of hydrophilic molecules through the skin is still a challenge due to the barrier posed by stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. Liposomes have frequently been used as carriers for different types of drugs and may also function as permeation enhancers. Propylene glycol has also been used as an edge activator in liposomes to increase the permeation. The aim of this work was to prepare liposomes containing an edge activator and loaded with caffeine to evaluate the potential of caffeine reaching the deeper layers in the skin. - Methods : The formulations were prepared by a top-down process using high-pressure homogenization at 200 00 psi for 10 min. They were characterized by size, polydispersity index (PI), zeta potential (ZP), pH, caffeine content and encapsulation efficiency (EE%) on preparation (time zero) and after 30 days. Cytotoxicity of blank and loaded liposomes was assessed by MTT proliferation assay with a normal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT). In vitro permeation tests were performed with human skin in Franz cells over 24 h, and caffeine concentration was determined in the skin surface, stratum corneum, dermo-epidermal fraction and receptor medium by HPLC. - Results : The caffeine liposomes with (DL-Caf) or without propylene glycol (CL-Caf) showed, respectively, mean size 94.5 and 95.4 nm, PI 0.48 and 0.42, ZP + 1.3 and + 18.1 mV and caffeine content of 78.57 and 80.13%. IC50 values of caffeine in DL-Caf (3.59 v/v %) and CL-Caf (3.65 v/v %) were not significantly different from conventional blank liposome (3.27 v/v %). The DL-Caf formulation presented the best capability to enhance the caffeine permeation through the skin, resulting 1.94-folds higher than caffeine solution. Furthermore, the caffeine flux from DL-Caf was 1.56- and 3.05-folds higher than caffeine solution and CL-Caf, respectively. On the other hand, CL-Caf showed the lowest caffeine penetration revealing the importance of edge activator to aid hydrophilic drug penetration to all skin layers. - Conclusion : The DL-Caf formulation tested was able to improve the permeation of caffeine through the stratum corneum and dermo-epidermal layers, suggesting that this delivery system may be effective for deep skin delivery of hydrophilic drugs. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Preparation of liposomes - Characterization of liposome formulations - Caffeine quantification and encapsulation efficiency (EE%) - Cell culture studies - Treatment solutions - Cytotoxicity assay : MTT test - Caffeine skin permeation studies - Sample analysis - Data analysis and statistics - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Characterization of liposomes - Encapsulation Efficiency (EE%) - Cytotoxicity tests - Permeation of Caffeine from Liposomes and Controls - Table 1 : Liposome formulations and controls composition - Table 2 : Characterization of liposomes formulations data. Measurements were done at zero and thirtieth days. All data are results of three analyses (n = 3) - Table 3 : Content of caffeine in liposomes formulation and encapsulation efficiency (EE%) - Table 4 : IC50 values of conventional liposome and caffeine encapsulated on HaCaT cell line - Table 5 : Permeation parameters following 24-h application of caffeine from liposome formulations and controls to full-thickness human skin (mean SD, n = 3) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12659 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xwcDoaHKMJNtr-XBVeV4cz__-o2pSCsZ/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35438 [article]

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Measurements meet perceptions : rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 11-19 Titre : Measurements meet perceptions : rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; A.G. Garcia, Auteur ; L. K. Young, Auteur ; M. Szoboszlai, Auteur ; M. W. Liberatore, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 11-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Caractérisation Cosmétiques -- Texture Emollients Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Rhéologie Statistique Taille des gouttelettes Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product’s acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time-consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group’s preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio-derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers’ description of products and the instrumental measurements. - Methods : Six emulsions were prepared—three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory-like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously. - Results : The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different—as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers’ discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case—when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear-thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also. - Conclusion : Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory–texture–rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS - METHODS : Formulation of the emulsions - Viscosity and rheology - Texture analysis - Droplet size determination - Stability - Data analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Texture analyser - Rheology - Droplet size - Stability - Relationship between rheology–texture–sensory characteristics - Table 1 : Ingredients and percentage of ingredients in the emulsions used in this study - Table 2 : Correlation matrix and scoring coefficients of instrumental variables - Table 3 : Spreadability of the emulsions - Table 4 : Power law parameters, viscosity, storage modulus and yield stress of the emulsions at 25°C - Table 5 : Droplet size of emulsions (average ± SD) - Table 6 : Summary statistics of indicators and CATA counts - Table 7 : Univariate Poisson regression results DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12661 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-SqGcJRQQ3LfzPJkuRqYczO4ClxJ5gW-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35439 [article]

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Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women : Comparison with women of other ethnic origins / F. Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women : Comparison with women of other ethnic origins Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : F. Flament, Auteur ; O. Coubard, Auteur ; R. Cruz, Auteur ; R. Flores, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour des yeux Etudes comparatives Femmes Groupe ethnique Mexicain(e)s Protocole d'étude Statistique Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities. Material and methods Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian : 600; Chinese : 990 ; Japanese : 1010 ; Indian : 300 ; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women. - Results : The severity of crow’s feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries. - Conclusion : The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Statistics - Table 1 : Distribution of the studied Mexican women with age clusters - Table 2 : Illustration of the 9 studied ocular signs and their respective grading ranges in Mexican women - Table 3 : Changes of 9 ocular signs with ages in Mexican women (Mean ± Standard Deviation, S.D.). Grey, Orange or Green colours cells equivalent to non-significant differences among them. Each white cell is significantly different from all others DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12662 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10f-za867HPOJFWHruI_kJjDFmeqnfkh2/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35440 [article]

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Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair / Ernesta Malinauskyte in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 26-37 Titre : Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ernesta Malinauskyte, Auteur ; R. Shrestha, Auteur ; P. A. Cornwell, Auteur ; Simon Gourion-Arsiquaud, Auteur ; M. Hindley, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 26-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cheveux défrisés -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Hydrolysats de protéines kératines La kératine est une protéine, synthétisée et utilisée par de nombreux êtres vivants comme élément de structure, et également l'exemple-type de protéine fibreuse. La kératine est insoluble, et peut être retrouvée sur l'épiderme de certains animaux, notamment les mammifères, ce qui leur garantit une peau imperméable. Parfois, lors d'une friction trop importante, la kératine se développe à la surface de la peau formant une callosité. Les cellules qui produisent la kératine meurent et sont remplacées continuellement. Les morceaux de kératine qui restent emprisonnés dans les cheveux sont couramment appelés des pellicules. La molécule de kératine est hélicoïdale et fibreuse, elle s'enroule autour d'autres molécules de kératine pour former des filaments intermédiaires. Ces protéines contiennent un haut taux d'acides aminés à base de soufre, principalement la cystéine, qui forment un pont disulfure entre les molécules, conférant sa rigidité à l'ensemble. La chevelure humaine est constituée à 14 % de cystéine. Il y a deux principales formes de kératines : l'alpha-kératine, ou α-keratin, présente chez les mammifères notamment, dont l'humain, et la bêta-kératine, ou β-keratin, que l'on retrouve chez les reptiles et les oiseaux. Ces deux types de kératines ne présentent clairement pas d'homologie de séquence. Chez l'être humain, la kératine est fabriquée par les kératinocytes, cellules se trouvant dans la couche profonde de l'épiderme. Les kératinocytes absorbent la mélanine (pigment fabriqué par les mélanocytes), se colorent et ainsi cette pigmentation de l'épiderme permet de protéger les kératinocytes des rayons ultraviolets du Soleil. (Wikipedia) Pénétration (physique) Peptides Poids moléculaires Produits capillaires Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To investigate the effects of different molecular weight (MW), wool derived hydrolysed keratins (i.e. peptides) on the physical properties of relaxed textured hair. - Methods : Very curly hair of African origin was relaxed using sodium hydroxide-based treatment. Relaxed hair was treated with different MW peptides derived from keratin protein and an amino acid, L-Leucine. The low-MW keratin peptides were 221 Da, the mid-MW keratin peptides were approximately 2577 Da, and the high-MW keratin peptides were approximately 75 440 Da. The penetration of these different peptides into relaxed hair was evaluated using a laser scanning micrometre and by fluorescence microscopy. The effect of these compounds on single-fibre mechanical properties and thermal properties was evaluated using tensile and DSC testing, respectively. - Results : Low- and mid-MW compounds were able to penetrate deep into the hair cortex. High-MW peptide adsorbed onto the hair surface and possibly slightly penetrated into the outer layers of the fibre surface. Both mid- and high-MW keratin peptides, increased Young’s modulus and reduced hair breakage at 20% and 80% relative humidity. With the exception of mid-MW peptide, other peptides and amino acid were not able to modify thermal properties of relaxed textured hair. - Conclusions : Our data suggest that low-MW compounds may increase hair volume, and high-MW peptides may repair damage on freshly relaxed textured hair. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair samples - Relaxing procedure - Amino acid and keratin peptide ingredients - Preparation of fluorescently labelled keratin peptides - Penetration of labelled keratin peptides into hair fibres - Scanning electron microscopy - Hair diameter and single-fibre tensile testing studies - Differential scanning calorimetry - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Effects of peptide treatments on fibre cross-sectional area - Penetration of labelled keratin peptides into hair fibres - Pre-existing mechanical damage of hair via SEM - Surface coverage by mid- and high-MW peptide treatments via SEM - Effects of peptide treatments on hair stiffness - Effects of peptide treatments on hair breakage - Effects of peptide treatments on thermal properties of hair DISCUSSION : Fluorescence microscopy - Penetration of keratin peptides - Effects of treatments on hair stiffness - Effects of treatments on hair breakage - Table : The treatment effect on the premature breakage (number of prematurely broken fibres per 50 tested fibres) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12663 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12663 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35441 [article]

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Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction / T. Yamada in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 38-47 Titre : Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : T. Yamada, Auteur ; A. Habuka, Auteur ; I. Hatta, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 38-47 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Polyols are moisturizers used in cosmetics. Using X-ray diffraction, we studied the moisturizingmechanism of polyol solutions in the stratum corneum (SC). We examined whether glycerol disrupts the ordered hydrocarbon chain packing structure in isolated SC, as previously proposed in an SC lipid model. - Methods : The SC samples were prepared by treatment with water and aqueous solutions of glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol. To examine the differences in the water-retention efficiency of polyols, using a solution cell, we performed dynamic X-ray diffraction to analyse the structural changes that occurred during water removal from the hydrated samples by a stream of dry nitrogen gas. We focused on two structures, the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure in the intercellular lipids and the soft keratin in the corneocytes where most of the water is stored. - Results : The spacing formed by the soft keratin in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of water and diglycerol solution decreased rapidly by water removal. In contrast, it decreased gradually in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of glycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, indicating that the glycerol-containing solutions maintained the hydrated state of the corneocytes for longer. Furthermore, the characteristic change of the spacing in the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure over time was observed during the drying process. The hydrated state was maintained longer, in water, followed by glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, in increasing order. This is the first study to report such characteristic properties that could be indicators of the capacity of the SC to regulate water. - Conclusion : The dynamic X-ray diffraction experiment on the structure of the soft keratin and the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure during the drying of the hydrated SC provides an insight into the moisturizing mechanism of the polyol solutions in the SC. The results show that the glycerol/diglycerol solution functions as an effective SC moisturizer at the molecular level. Further, it was confirmed that the behaviour of glycerol in the isolated SC varies from that proposed in the SC lipid model, wherein glycerol was proposed to prevent the formation of a regular hydrocarbon chain packing structure. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12664 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HFRUIow0r86bjg_7YILKigsz8bRNVZy5/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35442 [article]

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A validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial / M. M. O'Mahony in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 48-56 Titre : A validated photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles and its application in evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product in a split-face randomized clinical trial Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : M. M. O'Mahony, Auteur ; C. Sladen, Auteur ; M. Crone, Auteur ; E. Banner, Auteur ; V. L. Newton, Auteur ; A. Allen, Auteur ; M. Bell, Auteur ; I. Marlow, Auteur ; S. F. Acevedo, Auteur ; L. I. Jiang, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 48-56 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cernes Contour des yeux Cosmétiques Echelle photonumérique Etudes cliniques Evaluation Justification de l'allégation Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : As a result of their complex aetiology and periodicity, dark circles are difficult to characterize and measure, with current assessment techniques relying on specialist equipment, image analysis or proprietary grading scales. There is therefore a need to develop and validate a photonumeric scale for assessing infraorbital dark circles, which can provide an objective and consumer relevant tool for evaluating this condition and the efficacy of treatment products and procedures. - Methods : A panel of expert clinical evaluators reviewed approximately three thousand facial photographs collected over a 5-year period and selected images representing a dynamic range of dark circles. A 10-point photonumeric scale was created, with corresponding descriptors and images for each grade of the scale. To rigorously validate the scale, linearity, sensitivity and precision were assessed by colorimetry and in-clinic evaluation. Reproducibility was assessed photographically with both experienced and inexperienced clinical evaluators, whereas intragrader repeatability was assessed live in-clinic. The scale was then employed in a split-face randomized clinical trial on 58 subjects to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product over 8 weeks. - Results : Colour analysis of the images showed the scale was linear, with statistically significant correlations observed when colour data (CIElab; Individual Typology Angle) were plotted against the corresponding grades (r > 0.9, P < 0.001). Colour difference (Delta E) was calculated between the infraorbital zone and the surrounding skin, and when data were plotted against the grades, a statistically significant correlation was observed (r = 0.99, P < 0.01). The magnitude of the Delta E suggested that changes in grade are visibly perceptible to the human eye, and therefore, the scale is sensitive and clinically relevant. Intergrader reproducibility showed strong correlation (0.96) and >90% agreement between experienced evaluators, whereas intragrader repeatability assessment showed >90% perfect agreement between grades. Use of this scale in a clinical trial demonstrated the efficacy of a cosmetic product, with a mean statistically significant (P < 0.001) decrease in grade of 0.74 compared to baseline, and 0.59 versus the untreated control, after 8 weeks of treatment. - Conclusion : Our photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles is sensitive and robust and provides an objective and easy-to-use tool to evaluate dark circles and their treatment. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Creation of a photonumeric scale for infraorbital dark circles - Validation of the photonumeric scale - Clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product - RESULTS : Creation of a photonumeric scale for dark circles - Validation of the photonumeric scale - Application of the photonumeric scale in a clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment product - Table 1 : Photonumeric scale for dark circles, with written descriptors and corresponding representative images, compiled from a database of facial images and the consensus opinion of a panel of expert evaluators - Table 2 : Delta E (ΔE) and difference in ΔE between grades - Table 3 : Delta E (ΔE) and difference in ΔE between half grades - Table 4 : Interevaluator correlation between experienced (E1 and E2) and inexperienced (IE1 and IE2) evaluators after scoring 20 images using the photonumeric scale as reference - Table 5 : Intragrader agreement at two time points with a least a 1-h interval between subjects at each time point (T0 ; baseline, T1 ; 1 month later) - Table 6 : Clinical trial subject demographics DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12668 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vwxaC16VpVQf-S4oSRq5OlbkSz8CwRxD/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35443 [article]

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Mesoporous magnesium carbonate for use in powder cosmetics / Erik Bamford in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 57-67 Titre : Mesoporous magnesium carbonate for use in powder cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Erik Bamford, Auteur ; Alexander Grahn, Auteur ; Cecilia Arhammar, Auteur ; Ingrid Ajaxon, Auteur ; Cecilia Annerén, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 57-67 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agent mattant Caractérisation Huiles et graisses -- Absorption Humidité -- Absorption Ingrédients cosmétiques Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles Matériaux mésoporeux Poudres -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : In the present study, we describe the features and functional properties of a new powder cosmetic ingredient, an amorphous mesoporous magnesium carbonate (MMC, also named Upsalite®) with regard to physical characteristics as well as functional attributes. - Methods : Physical and functional characterization of MMC, as compared to other common powder cosmetic ingredients (silica, mica, kaolin, talc and starch), was assessed using nitrogen gas adsorption, powder X-ray diffraction, particle size distribution by laser diffraction, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and oil and moisture uptake tests. The powder ingredients were also applied on human skin and analysed for short- and long-term mattifying effect, and a new method was developed to measure flashback effect. MMC was tested for skin irritation using an in vitro cell model as well as in vivo, through the Human Repeated Insult Patch Test on 50 human volunteers. - Results : Mesoporous magnesium carbonate has a high surface area and pore volume. It has an excellent absorption capacity and can take up both oil and water simultaneously. It provides instant and long-lasting mattifying effect when applied on human skin without drying or irritating skin and exhibits no measured flashback effect. - Conclusion : Mesoporous magnesium carbonate has good sensory and visual characteristics as well as excellent absorbing and mattifying properties, suggesting that it has great potential to replace other powder ingredients currently used as fillers and absorbers in powder cosmetics. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS - RESULTS : Characteristics - Oil and moisture absorption - Long-lasting shine control of skin - Flashback effect - Dermatological tests - Table : Specific surface area and pore volume of cosmetic powders as determined using nitrogen adsorption DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12670 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12670 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35444 [article]

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Optimizing interactions between soluble silk fibroin and capryl glucoside for design of a natural and high-performance co-surfactant system in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 68-77 Titre : Optimizing interactions between soluble silk fibroin and capryl glucoside for design of a natural and high-performance co-surfactant system Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 68-77 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiséborrhéiques Biopolymères Capryl glucoside Epaississants Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Moussants Produits naturels Rhéologie Tension superficielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Because of the strong consumer driver towards more natural or higher sustainability cosmetic products, silk fibroin was evaluated to help develop a formulation with natural and effective ingredients for personal care. In order to exploit the physical properties of silk fibroin, it was evaluated to maximize the surfactant properties of other commercial ingredients to lower surface tension and build up viscosity. A synergistic effect was seen between silk fibroin and capryl glucoside, a sugar surfactant which exhibited a natural and effective co-surfactant system. This system demonstrated better surface tension properties than sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), rhamnolipids and sophorolipids, which led to greater foamability and cleansing properties. This system proved to also be compatible with polysaccharide viscosity modifiers to enhance the viscosity of the system. The present study comprises a systematic exploration of natural formulation development of silk proteins and other natural ingredients, which result in high performance such as enhanced foam quality, foam stability and enhanced sebum removal. All of these properties are desirable and may utilized when formulating cleaners and shampoos. - Methods : A force tensiometer, Attension Sigma 701, was used to measure the surface tension of the silk protein and its various combinations with biosurfactants and biopolymers. To measure bulk rheology, a traditional mechanical rheometer TA DHR-3 was utilized. Foaming tests and sebum removal assays were also carried out to evaluate the performance of the samples. - Results : Silk fibroin was evaluated to maximize the surfactant properties of other commercial systems to develop a formulation containing natural and effective ingredients for personal care. The surface activity of silk proteins was seen to be synergistically enhanced in the presence of sugar surfactants such as capryl glucoside, resulting in a surface tension at the air–water interface which is lower than either that of pure silk fibroin or pure capryl glucoside. This surface tension value is additionally lower than that obtained from currently utilized synthetic surfactants like sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). This reduction in surface tension demonstrated greater foamability and cleansing properties than that of the commercial systems. The very low surface tension values obtained through combinations of silk proteins and glucoside resulted in a natural and effective co-surfactant system by forming high-quality stable foams and enhancing sebum removal. The rheological performance of the silk proteins was impacted through microstructure modifications as a result of interactions with biopolymers like carrageenan. This shows that this system is compatible with polysaccharide viscosity modifiers. It was observed that both the flow curve and the absolute viscosity values were significantly impacted in the presence of carrageenan, with higher viscosity generation and significant non-Newtonian/shear thinning behaviour evolution. These results indicate that the silk fibroin can be utilized to build a high-performance natural product and significantly enhance the performance of other natural/sustainable cosmetic formulations through building synergistic interactions with other natural ingredients such as sugar surfactants and biopolymers. These properties exhibited by this system are all desirable for cleansers and shampoos within the cosmetic industry. - Conclusion : Silk fibroin in combination with capryl glucoside outperforms other commercial surfactants that are commonly used in the industry because of its surface-active behaviour and synergy. This system is then enhanced further with polysaccharide rheological modifiers, carrageen and xanthan gum to help build up viscosity. The complex mixture of silk fibroin, sugar surfactant and biopolymer results in a formulation that is all natural, while still having high performance by achieving great foamability and enhanced sebum removal. The mixture can further be used to formulate a fully natural product such as a cleanser or shampoo while still having the same or greater effectiveness as synthetic surfactants and ingredients typically used in cosmetic formulations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Sample preparation - Materials - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Surface activity : surface tension at air-water interface and impact on foaming - Foaming behaviour - Sebum removal through cleansing properties - Rheology build in silk protein + glucoside formulations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12676 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Jwnn0pC0PKMA05yoqH7lRa3wMSrAbLib/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35445 [article]

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Sensory words may facilitate certain haptic exploratory procedures in facial cosmetics / Naomi Arakawa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 78-87 Titre : Sensory words may facilitate certain haptic exploratory procedures in facial cosmetics Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Naomi Arakawa, Auteur ; Tomoko Watanabe, Auteur ; Kyoko Fukushima, Auteur ; Masashi Nakatani, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 78-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Attitudes Procédure exploratoire haptique Toucher Toucher -- Langage technique Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Many people want to have healthy facial skin. They tend to check their skin’s condition by touching their face with their hands. In the cosmetic industry, we need to understand what consumers are perceiving in a tactile sense when touching their own facial skin. The purpose of this study was to investigate these observation methods in order to systematically understand people’s haptic exploratory procedures (HEPs). - Methods : Thirty-four participants living in the United States and twenty-two participants living in Japan freely explored their faces and answered which side felt more closely related to the six tactile adjectives. A new analysis was applied to classify the observed HEPs into six classifications within two categories and three sizes of contact area by experts. - Result : It was confirmed that the new task was useful to observe the HEPs for participants from United States and Japan. The US participants’ HEPs for ‘moisturized’ were mainly a middle-sized contact area using a stroking motion. On the other hand, Japanese participants’ HEPs for ‘moisturized’ (‘shittori’ in Japanese) mainly used a pushing movement. Moreover, the US participants' HEPs for 'soft' included both pushing and stroking, but Japanese participants HEPs for ‘soft’ (‘yawarakai’ in Japanese) were again mainly pushing. - Conclusion : This study suggests that the proposed analysis method enables the systematic understanding of HEPs when checking the skin, along with the cross-cultural differences affecting those procedures. These systematic findings could allow cosmetic formulators to have a better understanding of the tactile sensations consumers themselves are feeling in a variety of different global markets. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Participants - Tactile adjectives representing skin perception - Stimuli - Procedure - Quantification of haptic exploratory behaviours - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : The total frequency of HEPs towards each tactile adjective - The categories of HEPs toward each tactile adjective - The categories and contact area sizes toward each tactile adjective - Table 1 : 6 adjectives used in the experiment - Table 2 : The viscosity of cosmetics - Table 3 : Haptic exploratory procedure classification criteria in 2 categories and 3 sizes of contact area - Table 4 : Statistical analysis of haptic exploratory procedure categories in the US and Japanese experiments - Table 5 : Statistical analysis of the six haptic exploratory procedures in the US and Japanese experiments DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12671 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eNSbS7NekcjUmM61x-ZPy4nwsmGR3nTG/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35446 [article]

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Evaluation of the surface properties of hair with acoustic emission analysis in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 88-101 Titre : Evaluation of the surface properties of hair with acoustic emission analysis Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 88-101 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- analyse Conditionnement Emission acoustique Evaluation Surfaces -- Analyse Toucher Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The tactile sensation of hair is an important consumer-perceivable attribute. There are limited instrumental options to measure the haptic properties of hair. In this study, we introduce a novel technique using the acoustic emissions produced when skin comes in contact with dry hair in a stroking motion. - Methods : Using a free-field microphone with a frequency response of 8–12,500 Hz, we recorded acoustic emission data of the interaction of skin with hair. Data were captured with Electroacoustics Toolbox software and analysed with Matlab. Acoustic emission profiles were generated allowing us to monitor the acoustic response at distinct frequencies. - Results : Various experiments were conducted to develop this novel technique as a suitable measure to monitor the surface properties of hair. Increasing the normal force and velocity of the interaction led to an increase in acoustic emissions. We also examined the acoustic profile of hair that underwent chemical treatment. For example, bleached hair produced a much higher magnitude acoustic response than the corresponding virgin hair. On the other hand, hair conditioner systems mitigated the acoustic response. Finally, investigations of textured hair revealed that the three-dimensional structure of the hair fibre assembly and its ability to return to its original state when perturbed produce the most dominant acoustic response for this type of hair. - Conclusion : We introduce a cutting-edge method to reproducibly evaluate the surface properties of hair. Different types of hair geometry produce unique acoustic profiles as do hair types that experience harsh damaging treatments. This is also a very practical and efficient way to evaluate the degree of protection or conditioning of the fibre. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12672 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12672 Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35447 [article]

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Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models / E. C. S. Lam in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 102-106 Titre : Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : E. C. S. Lam, Auteur ; R. Li, Auteur ; M. R. Rodrigues, Auteur ; L. Vires, Auteur ; R. L. Adams, Auteur ; J. D. Sherrill, Auteur ; J. E. Oblong, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 102-106 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Nicotinamide Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rétinyl propionate Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Retinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua (CS) fruit extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models. - Methods : Retinyl propionate was tested alone and in combination with Nam and CS in an RARα reporter cell line for promoter activation and compared to trans-retinoic acid (tRA) activation. These treatments were also tested in keratinocytes for gene expression profiling by qPCR using a panel of 40 retinoid responsive genes. - Results : tRA or RP elicited RARα reporter activation in a dose-dependent manner. The combination of 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam had a 56% and 95% signal increase compared to RP, respectively. The addition of 1% CS to 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam elicited a further increase of 114% and 156%, respectively, over RP and Nam combinations. All retinoids elicited an increase in expression of 40 retinoid sensitive genes over control levels. Of the 40 genes, 27 were enhanced by either 0.1 μM RP or 0.5 μM RP with 10 mM Nam and 1% CS. Nam or CS had very modest activity in both models. - Conclusion : The combination of RP with Nam and CS showed a higher retinoid response than RP in two separate retinoid responsive in vitro models. We hypothesize Nam and CS enhances RP activity by modulating metabolism to tRA via increasing NAD+ pools and inhibiting reduction of retinal (RAL) back to retinol, respectively. The findings provide evidence that this combination may have enhanced efficacy for treating the appearance of photoaged skin. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12669 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19JaiRMJdiOOfxYlxu_dmVHCdIaMZfbBY/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35448 [article]

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A comparison of the in vitro permeation of 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid in human skin and in a living skin equivalent (LabSkinâ„¢) / Fotis Iliopoulos in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 107-112 Titre : A comparison of the in vitro permeation of 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid in human skin and in a living skin equivalent (LabSkinâ„¢) Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Fotis Iliopoulos, Auteur ; Alex Chapman, Auteur ; Majella E. Lane, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 107-112 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Vitamine C Tags : 'Acide  3-O-éthyl-l-ascorbique'  'Equivalent  peau  humaine'  LabSkin  â„¢  'Barrière  cutanée'  'Livraison  de  la  peau'  Perméation  'Absorption Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The safety assessment of personal care products often entails determining dermal absorption of their ingredients. Such experiments are typically performed in human or animal skin in vitro; however, ethical and safety considerations are associated with obtaining these tissues. Several human skin equivalent models (HSEs) have been developed as alternatives to human tissue. The barrier function of such models however, is normally less developed than human skin. Here, we examine the permeability of the HSE LabSkinTM to a model compound, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) compared with human skin. - Methods : Skin uptake and permeation of EA was investigated in vitro using heat-separated human epidermis and LabSkinTM. Finite dose (5 μL cm-2) Franz-diffusion studies were conducted using 2 % (w/w) EA in a ternary solvent mixture comprising propylene glycol (PG), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML), and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These excipients are commonly used in cosmetic products and they have been reported to promote permeation of EA in a different model, namely porcine skin. - Results : Permeation of EA through LabSkinTM was evident from 2 h ; however, EA permeation in human skin was not detected until 5 h. Similar amounts of EA permeated through the two membranes at time points 8, 10, 12 and 24 h (p > 0.05). The cumulative amounts of EA delivered through LabSkinTM at 24 h were 41.3 ± 2.0 µg cm−2, corresponding to 55.1 ± 1.8 % of the applied dose. Similar amounts permeated across human skin, 49.4 ± 4.1 µg cm−2, accounting for 58.0 ± 4.2 % of the dose applied (p > 0.05). - Conclusion : The permeation of EA in LabSkinTM compared well with results for human epidermis in terms of the permeation profiles and the cumulative amounts of EA that permeated. The data suggest that the skin barrier of the two models was similar with regard to their overall permeability to the hydrophilic active EA. The findings are promising for the use of LabSkinTM as a surrogate for human skin in permeability testing. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and robustness of LabSkinTM for delivery of other actives that span a range of physicochemical properties. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12675 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18D4sVi7kxi_s1HySIKy3cou71CIz_-RM/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35449 [article]

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