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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierValidation of a new in vitro Sun Protection Factor method to include a wide range of sunscreen product emulsion types / Marc Pissavini in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)
Titre : Validation of a new in vitro Sun Protection Factor method to include a wide range of sunscreen product emulsion types Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marc Pissavini, Auteur ; C. Tricaud, Auteur ; G. Wiener, Auteur ; A. Lauer, Auteur ; M. Contier, Auteur ; Ludger Kolbe, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 421-428 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Normalisation
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Essais (technologie)
Etude in vitro
Facteur de protection solaire
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In 2017, Cosmetics Europe performed a double‐blinded ring test of 24 emulsion‐type sunscreen products, across 3 in vivo test laboratories and 3 in vitro test laboratories, using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method. Based on the results of this work, an article was published showing how data derived from a new lead candidate method conform to new International Standards (ISO) acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods (Any alternative method should consider the matrix effect and if required, specify the matrix applicability of the method; Criterion 1a: Systematic differences between methods should be negligible: 95% of all individual results of an alternative method are within the range of ±2× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method, that is overall bias must be below 0.5× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method; Criterion 1b: Measurement uncertainty of an alternative method should be below the measurement uncertainty of the in vivo method. Candidate method predicted values must fall within the full ‘funnel’ (SPF 6‐50+) limits proposed by Cosmetics Europe (derived from the same minimum test design, that is using the ISO24444 Method to measure at least 24 products across at least 3 laboratories using at least 5 test subjects/laboratory, in a blinded fashion).). Of the 24 sunscreen products tested, the majority of emulsions were of the oil‐in‐water (O/W) type, whereas only one was water‐in‐oil (W/O) and there were no products with a mineral‐only sun filter system. In order to confirm the scope of this method, therefore, a new study was conducted that included 73 W/O (12 mineral + organic, 44 mineral only and 17 organic only) and 3 O/W mineral‐only, emulsion‐type sunscreen products (a total of 76 new sunscreen products). When combined with the previous 24 products (tested in 3 different laboratories), this yielded a new data set comprising a total of 100 emulsion‐type sunscreen products, with SPF values ranging from 6 to 50+ (with a total of 148 data points). These products were tested using the double‐plate in vitro SPF test method and compared with the ISO TC217/WG7 acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods. Over 95% of paired in vitro: in vivo SPF values lay within the upper and lower limits of the ISO acceptance criteria funnel, with no bias. This new in vitro SPF test method, therefore, meets the minimum requirements for an alternative SPF test method to ISO24444:2010, for emulsion‐type sunscreen products (which make up the majority of marketed sunscreen products). Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Sunscreen products - In vivo SPF test method - In vitro SPF test method
- Table 1 : The 100 emulsion-type sunscreen products used (SPF6 - 50+)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12625 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kCIXJBpksitUxp3MD2H-ML8PxAy4TmUZ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35406
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 421-428[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Microneedle patch based on dissolving, detachable microneedle technology for improved skin quality of the periorbital region. Part 2 : Clinical Evaluation Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : V. Zvezdin, Auteur ; T. Kasatkina, Auteur ; I. Kasatkin, Auteur ; M. Gavrilova, Auteur ; O. Kazakova, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 429-435 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Evaluation
Ferulique, AcideL'acide férulique est un acide organique présent, lui ou ses esters, dans de nombreuses plantes. Ce dérivé de l'acide cinnamique participe à la synthèse de la lignine qui forme les parois des cellules végétales et est un précurseur de molécules aromatiques. Son nom provient de Ferula, un genre de plantes herbacées de la famille des Apiacées.
L'acide férulique est un phénylpropanoïde, plus précisément un dérivé de l'acide cinnamique. Il s'agit d'un groupe acrylique lié à un cycle phényle substitué par un groupe hydroxy et un groupe méthoxy, ce qui rend sa structure extrêmement proche de celle de l'acide caféique (à partir duquel il est d'ailleurs biosynthétisé), la seule différence étant un groupe méthoxy à la place d'un groupe hydroxy. Sa structure est aussi très proche de celle de la curcumine.
L'acide férulique, comme l'acide dihydroférulique, est un composé de la lignocellulose, qui sert à faire le lien entre la lignine et les polysaccharides, ce qui confère leur solidité aux parois des cellules végétales. Il est présent dans de nombreuses graines comme le riz, le blé, l'avoine mais aussi dans le café, les pommes, les artichauts, les cacahouètes, les oranges et les ananas. Il est d'ailleurs possible d'extraire l'acide férulique du son de blé ou de maïs en utilisant des bases concentrées (soude, potasse). La biosynthèse de l'acide férulique se fait par méthoxylation de la fonction hydroxy meta de l'acide caféique grâce à une enzyme spécifique, l'acide caféique-O-méthyl transférase.
L'acide férulique est aussi un intermédiaire dans la synthèse des monolignols (en particulier de l'alcool coniférylique qui est obtenu par double réduction de l'acide férulique), c'est-à -dire les monomères de la lignine, et il est aussi utilisé dans la synthèse des lignanes.
L'acide férulique, comme de nombreux phénols, est un antioxydant dans le sens où il est réactif avec les radicaux libres comme les dérivés réactifs de l'oxygène (DRO).
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Patchs à micro-aiguilles
StatistiqueIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Microneedle patches based on dissolving, detachable microneedle technology (Russian patent No. 2652567; US patent EFS No. 32735812; WO/2019/231360) are novel dermatological products that allow safe, painless and effective reduction of epidermal wrinkles after six procedures. The purpose of this study was two-fold (a) to assess the safety and efficacy of microneedle patches comprising 650 microneedles containing hyaluronic and ferulic acids after 6 procedures of applying the applicator to the skin for 25 min; and (b) to correlate our previously reported ex vivo findings.
- Methods : The microneedle applicator contains 650 microneedles, which dissolve in 25 min of exposure. The effectiveness of microneedle applicators was confirmed by a randomized split-phase study involving 82 subjects. Applications of microneedle patches were performed at intervals of two times per week, and the effectiveness was assessed at 6 weeks after the start of the study.
- Results : The results of the profilometric evaluation of skin smoothness demonstrated a significant reduction in the average roughness index by 65.32 ± 2.99% and in the mean skin waviness by 66.84 ± 1.6% compared with these indicators in the control group (P < 0.05). The therapeutic effect of the procedure was confirmed by an ultrasound examination that registered a 72.2 ± 5.4% and 25 ± 1.4% increase in echo-density of the epidermis and dermis, respectively. An independent blinded skin evaluation by dermatologists revealed steady decrease in puffiness of the application area in 89.9% of patients, increased elasticity in 78.3% of the patients, and reduced severity of epidermal wrinkles in 89.9% of the patients.
- Conclusions : The applicator with 650 soluble microneedles on its surface containing hyaluronic and ferulic acids is considered a safe, effective and convenient way to improve the skin quality in the periorbital region after six procedures. Nevertheless, additional studies of soluble microneedles are required to fully assess the amount and distribution area of the injected hyaluronic acid and other active components, as well as to detail the mechanism of action of soluble microneedles to improve skin quality.Note de contenu : - Subjects
- Test materials and protocol
- Efficacy and safety evaluation
- Statistical analysisDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12636 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OWvbD_9INeSoSDV49GUiFqbEaD9iVce9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35407
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 429-435[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : The impact of different hair-removal behaviours on the biophysical and biochemical characteristics of female axillary skin Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 436-443 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aisselles -- Soins et hygiène
Barrière cutanée
Cosmétiques
Cytokines
Epilage
Erythèmes
Evaluation
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The impact of hair removal on the biophysical and biochemical characteristics of human axillary skin is not fully understood. This study investigated the effect of different hair-removal techniques on biophysical parameters and the concentrations of key inflammatory biomarkers in the axillae of female Thai subjects. Axillary hair was removed by shaving, plucking or waxing.
- Methods : Following a 2-week washout phase without hair removal, subjects underwent visual assessment for erythema and skin dryness in one (randomized) axilla, then, hair was removed from the axilla by shaving, plucking or waxing according to each subject’s established habit. Erythema and dryness were assessed again 30 min after hair removal, and buffer scrubs collected from depilated and non-depilated axillae and analysed for inflammatory cytokines; after a further 48 h, erythema, dryness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIHP) were assessed in the depilated axilla. Biophysical assessments (skin hydration, barrier integrity, elasticity and roughness) were made in depilated and non-depilated axillae.
- Results : All three hair-removal techniques induced an increase in axillary erythema and skin dryness. Shaving was associated with significantly less erythema (P < 0.01), but significantly greater skin dryness (P < 0.05) versus the other techniques 30 min after hair removal. There were no between-technique differences in PIHP or biophysical parameters. Interleukins IL-1α and IL-1RA concentrations increased, and IL-8 concentration decreased following hair removal by each technique.
- Conclusion : This is the first study to identify the principal cytokines associated with the inflammatory process triggered by axillary hair removal. A single hair-removal treatment did not appear to induce PIHP or further biophysical changes to the skin.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Impact of different hair removal techniques on the biophysical and biochemical properties of axillary skin - Subjects - Study design - Assessments - Data analysis
- RESULTS : Visual and biophysical assessments - Biochemical assessmentsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12648 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DPbReUcASEA5Q6qw6TefFul7JLTc3IFJ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35408
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 436-443[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : A blackberry-dill extract combination synergistically increases skin elasticity Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 444-451 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aneth et constituants
Dermo-cosmétologie
Elasticité
Etudes cliniques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Mures et constituants
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
StatistiqueIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : The loss of structural elastin due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing results in the skin’s inability to stretch and recoil (decrease in elasticity) and manifests as loss of skin firmness and sagging. While other extracellular matrix (ECM) components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid are continually synthesized and assembled through life, elastic fibres are not. Elastic fibre assembly and functionality require fibre cross-linking, induced by the lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) enzymes, which sharply decrease during ageing.
- Objective : To evaluate the enhanced elastogenic effect of a blackberry–dill extract combination, which was hypothesized to induce elastin fibre component synthesis, fibre cross-linking and reduce elastin fibre degradation.
- Methods : The blackberry and the dill extracts were tested separately and in combination to confirm single ingredient bioactivity and synergistic benefits. Human skin explants, dermal fibroblasts, elastase assays, ELISAs, quantitative real-time PCRs and spectrofluorometer measurements were used. Moreover, a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out to assess skin elasticity using Cutometer and histologically from biopsies.
- Results : The blackberry extract induced elastin gene expression, elastin promoter activity and inhibited elastic fibre degradation by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 9 and 12. The dill extract induced elastin, collagen and LOXL1 gene expression, resulting in enhanced fibre cross-linking in human skin explants. Clinically, the blackberry and dill combination treatment displayed synergistic pro-elasticity activity as compared to each ingredient alone and placebo.
- Conclusion : Taken together, these results demonstrated the two multimodal plant-based extracts complemented each other in terms of bioactivity and resulted in a synergistic elastogenesis induction.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro - Clinical - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Blackberry extract increased levels of elastin gene expression and tropoelastin, while also inhibited skin elastases - Dill extract increased LOXL1, elastin and collagen1A1 gene expression, as well as elastic fibre cross-linking in human skin explants - The blackberry–dill extract combination did not impair individual ingredient bioactivity and resulted in an elastin and pro-collagen induction both at a gene and protein level in HDF - The blackberry–dill extract combination resulted in a synergistic elasticity induction as compared to individual ingredient alone and placebo control in a human clinical studyDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12644 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xpRVWob-femTISTNKghECF-xBsZqpKOI/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35409
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 444-451[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age, on a tired-look or a healthy glow among differently aged Chinese men Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; A. Abric, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; C. Caron, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 452-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s
Dermatologie
Hommes
Perception de l'âge
Signes du visageIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age, tired-look and healthy glow on Chinese men of different ages.
- Material and methods : Photographs were taken of the faces of 420 Chinese men of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 15 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely wrinkles/texture, ptosis/sagging, pigmentation disorders, vascular disorders and cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 80 Chinese women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to : (i) attribute on a 0–10 scale their perception of both the tired-look and healthy glow aspects and (ii) estimate the age of the subject.
- Results : With the exception of vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The ptosis/sagging or pigmentation disorders showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found to be closely correlated, the vast majority of subjects were judged older by 2–10 years. The changes in facial signs (and their related clusters) were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of skin spot density and cheek skin pores. Although the aspects of tired-look and healthy glow were logically found to be anti-correlated, tired-look was more statistically associated with perceived age for the five clusters. Signs of eye contour appear to be closely correlated with the perception of a tired-look.
- Conclusion : Within facial clinical clusters, wrinkles/texture and ptosis/sagging are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Chinese men. Tired-look appears to be strongly associated with perceived age.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Appraisal by a native panel - Statistics
- RESULTS : Correlation between perceived age (PA) and real age (RA) - Facial signs and real ages - Facial signs and perceived ages - Influence of tired-look and healthy glow on PA - Relationships between the tired-look criterion on the gradings of facial signs and their clusters
- Table 1 : Distribution of Chinese men with age cluster
- Table 2 : 15 clinical facial signs and their respective photographic scale's ranges for Chinese men
- Table 3 : Correlations of facial signs and perceived ages (PA), all ages included
- Table 4 : Correlations between tired-look, healthy glow, PA and RA in Chinese men at all ages and under or before their forties
- Table 5 : Correlations of facial signs grades with tired-look for all age groupsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12649 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iL-fEdmtgXsm9aKHLZuGNiQkaFDsxWuQ/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35410
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 452-461[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : A minimally invasive clinical model to test sunscreen toxicity based on oxidative stress levels using microbiopsy and confocal microscopy - a proof of concept study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Miko Yamada, Auteur ; Lynlee L. Lin, Auteur ; Lydia Y. T. Hang, Auteur ; Paul J. Belt, Auteur ; H. Peter Soyer, Auteur ; Anthony P. Raphael, Auteur ; Tarl W. Prow, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 462-470 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie
Dermo-cosmétologie
Etude in vivo
Imagerie (technique)
Microscopie confocale
Nanoparticules
Oxyde de zinc
Peau -- Biopsie
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : This proof‐of‐concept study demonstrated that using minimally invasive skin microsampling could enable significantly higher throughput of cosmetic testing in volunteers than conventional biopsy. Nanoparticle sunscreen was used as a model to test toxicity based on oxidative stress using microbiopsy and confocal imaging.
- Methods : Six volunteers were recruited for this study (3 males and 3 females). Zinc oxide nanoparticle containing topical formulation was prepared at 10% w/v. Each volunteer had 3 areas of 4 cm2 each mapped on each inner forearm for a total of 6 treatment areas (intact/ tape-stripped and with/without treatment). The topical zinc-nanoparticle formulation was applied directly to volunteer skin (2mg/cm2) for 2 hrs. Microbiopsied tissue from each treatment group was stained for reactive oxygen and nitrogen species in addition to mitochondrial superoxide. The stained samples were then imaged using confocal microscopy prior to image analysis.
- Results : Skin exposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles did not show any significant increases in oxidative stress. Zinc oxide nanoparticle tape-stripped skin resulted in signal significantly lower (P < 0.001) oxidative stress levels than t-butylated hydroxytoluene treated tape-stripped skin for oxidative stress markers. Topically applied zinc oxide nanoparticles had no detectable effect on the oxidative status in volunteer skin. No adverse reactions or effects were observed after all treatments including microbiopsy.
- Conclusion : The data support the hypothesis that microbiopsy is a viable approach to study cosmeceutical- skin interactions in volunteers with capacity for molecular assays and high throughput with very low risk to the volunteer.Note de contenu : - Subjects
- Tape-stripping and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)
- Zinc oxide nanoparticle (ZnO-NP) preparation and administration
- Microbiopsy
- Reactive Oxygen and Nitrogen Species (CellROX) and Mitochondrial Superoxide (MitoSOX) Assessment
- Confocal laser microscopy
- Data analysis
- Table : Treatment groups as per 4 cm2 area marked out on the arm. Separation of arms A and B for the two solutions (ZnO-NP sunscreen and CCT) minimized cross-contaminationDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12646 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AmsQAEOqV5ZhvAvSeVP8jkxFCki-1KE2/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35411
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 462-470[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Perceived age and perceived health among a Chinese cohort : Does it mean the same thing ? Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Messaraa, Auteur ; T. J. C. Richard, Auteur ; M. Walsh, Auteur ; L. Doyle, Auteur ; C. O'Connor, Auteur ; N. Robertson, Auteur ; A. Mansfield, Auteur ; S. Hurley, Auteur ; Alain Mavon, Auteur ; A. Grenz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 471-481 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s
Femmes
Peau -- Perception visuelle
Perception de l'âge
Perception de l'état de santéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background & aims : Previous investigations have aimed at investigating parameters affecting age perception on several ethnicities. Perceived health has been a newer focus on Caucasian skin, yet little is known on the skin features used to estimate the health status of Chinese women and we aimed to investigate whether these cues are the same as those used for age perception.
- Methods : Age and health appearance of 276 Chinese female volunteers were estimated from their photographs by 1025 female naïve Chinese graders 20-69 years old. Models were built to predict perceived age and health from topographic, colour and biophysical measured variables, in two subsets of the studied volunteers: below and above 50 years. Machine learning‐based predictive models for age and health perception were built on the collected data, and the interpretability of the models was established by measuring feature importance.
- Results : Age perception was mostly driven by topographic features, particularly eye bags and eyelid sagging in the group below 50 years old. Wrinkles, notably from the lower part of the face and oval of the lower face, were found to be more relevant in the group above 50 years. Health appearance was primarily signalled by skin imperfections and global pigmentation in the subset below 50 years, whereas colour‐related parameters and skin hydration acted as health cues for the subset above 50 years.
- Conclusion : Distinct skin features were acting as cues for age perception and/or health perception and varied per age subset. Their contribution should be borne in mind when designing products for ‘younger looking skin' and 'healthier looking skin'.
Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Volunteers - Photographs followed by facial attributes assessment through expert grading, dermatological grading or image analysis - Antera 3D measurements - Biozoom measurements - Probe measurements - Perceived age and perceived health assessment by naïve graders - Self-declared skin ageing concerns - Statistic analysis - Machine learning analysis
- RESULTS : Robustness of the models - Skin features having an impact on perceived age - Skin features having an impact on perceived health - Self-declared skin ageing concerns
- Table 1 : List of skin concerns included in the ranking question for the naïve graders
- Table 2 : List of facial attributes measured from photographs, probes, Antera 3D and Biozoom according to their category
- Table 3 : Average performances over 5 rounds of training/testing/validation of machine learning or dummy models, trained on different data based on demographic age and predicting health score or perceived age
DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12647 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tC3UerhuY_w5OkV6xYVS2HjYQy-NPaaw/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35412
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 471-481[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state : a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Choe, Auteur ; J. Schleusener, Auteur ; S. Choe, Auteur ; J. Ri, Auteur ; Jürgen Lademann, Auteur ; Maxim E. Darvin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 482-493 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée
Cornéocytes
Dermo-cosmétologie
Gonflement (physique)
Huile essentielle d'amande douce
Jojoba et constituants
Microscopie confocale Raman
Peau -- Physiologie
Pénétration (physique)
VaselineIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.
- Methods : The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.
- Results : A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.
- Conclusion : The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Applied substances - Volunteers - Confocal Raman microspectroscopy - Data analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : SC thickness - Depth profiles of water and NMF - Water mobility and the hydrogen bonding state of water - Secondary structure of keratin - Tertiary structure of keratin
- DISCUSSION : Effect of oil occlusion on the hydrogen bonding states of water molecules - Effect of oil application on the secondary and tertiary structure of keratin - Swelling of corneocytes and water binding with NMF, lipids and keratin
- Table 1 : The SC thickness (μm) of untreated skin and skin treated with four different oils in μm. The symbol '*' denotes P-values < 0.05, the symbol '**' denotes P-values < 0.01 between oil-treated and untreated skin
- Table 2 : Raman features measured on the pure oils and untreated SC. The symbol '–' means absence of Raman contributionDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12653 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y9mzYrs5yKXHSjToWDknu7oksvfM7fVK/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35413
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 482-493[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Influence of vegetable oils in the rheology, texture profile and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Francine C. S. César, Auteur ; Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 494-500 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cosmétiques -- Texture
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Huiles et graisses végétales
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The knowledge about how ingredients in formulation can influence the texture profile is an important factor on the development of a cosmetic product. In this context, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effect of vegetable oils in the texture profile, rheological and sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel.
- Methods : Four organogel-based emulsions were developed and supplemented or not with sunflower, macadamia or olive oils. Analyses of rheological behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties were performed.
- Results : The vegetable oils added to formulation did not alter the pseudoplastic rheological behaviour, but increased the area of hysteresis and reduced the work of shear of the formulations. In addition, the sunflower seed oil increased the consistency index and all texture parameters while the macadamia oil reduced firmness and consistency. The cosmetic formulation based on organogel containing the sunflower seed oil showed the highest score on sensory evaluation.
- Conclusion : The vegetable oils affected the rheology behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties of the formulations under study. However, the influence of sunflower oil in organogel-based cosmetic formulation was more pronounced considering texture profile and the response perceived by subjects in the sensorial analysis.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Vegetable oils - Formulation development - Rheological behaviour - Texture profile - Sensory analysis - Texture profile - Sensory analysis - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rheology - Texture analysis
- Table 1 : Composition of the formulations developed varying the type of vegetable oil added
- Table 2 : Apparent viscosity
- Table 3 : Texture characterization
- Table 4 : Sensory analysis of formulationsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12654 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xj18XPzvpWmo2CW8RsLzu2NoTgS0ILMf/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35414
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 494-500[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Niacinamide mitigates SASP-related inflammation induced by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : John C. Bierman, Auteur ; Timothy Laughlin, Auteur ; Makio Tamura, Auteur ; Ben C. Hulette, Auteur ; Catherine E. Mack, Auteur ; Joseph D. Sherrill, Auteur ; Christina Y. R. Tan, Auteur ; Malgorzata Morenc, Auteur ; Sophie Bellanger, Auteur ; John. E Oblong, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 501-511 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires
Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture
Justification de l'allégation
Nicotinamide
Peau -- Inflammation
Peau -- Physiologie
Stress -- Effets physiologiques
Stress environnementalIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To evaluate whether niacinamide (Nam) can mitigate production of inflammatory and senescence-related biomarkers induced by environmental stressors.
- Methods : Human epidermal keratinocytes were exposed to UVB, urban dust, diesel exhaust and cigarette smoke extract and treated with Nam or vehicle control. Full thickness 3-D skin organotypic models were exposed to a combination of UVB and PM2.5 and treated with Nam or vehicle control. Quantitation of the SASP-related inflammatory mediators PGE2, IL-6 and IL-8 was performed on cultured media. UVB-exposed keratinocytes treated with and without Nam were immunostained for the senescence biomarker Lamin B1 (LmnB1). Transcriptomics profiling of cigarette smoke extract effects on keratinocytes was performed. A double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical was conducted on 40 female panellists that were pretreated on back sites for two weeks with 5% Nam or vehicle and then exposed to 1.5 minimal erythemal dose (MED) solar-simulated radiation (SSR). Treated sites were compared with non-treated exposed sites for erythema and the skin surface IL-1αRA/IL-1α inflammatory biomarkers.
- Results : Ultraviolet B induced synthesis of PGE2, IL-8 and IL-6 and reduced LmnB1 levels in keratinocytes. Urban dust and diesel exhaust only stimulated synthesis of IL-8 whereas cigarette smoke extract only stimulated levels of PGE2. In all exposures, treatment with Nam significantly mitigated synthesis of the inflammatory mediators and restored levels of UVB-reduced LmnB1. In the 3D skin equivalent model, Nam reduced IL-8 levels stimulated by a combination of topical PM2.5 and UV exposure. In a UV challenge clinical, pretreatment with 5% Nam reduced erythema and skin surface IL-1αRA/IL-1α inflammatory biomarkers that were induced by SSR.
- Conclusion : Since it is known that Nam has anti-inflammatory properties, we tested whether Nam can inhibit environmental stress-induced inflammation and senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) biomarkers. We show Nam can reduce PGE2, IL-6 and IL-8 levels induced by environmental stressors. Additionally, in vivo pretreatment with Nam can reduce UV-induced erythema and skin surface inflammatory biomarkers. These findings add to the body of evidence that Nam can mitigate the skin’s inflammatory response elicited by environmental stressors. This supports Nam can potentially inhibit senescence and premature ageing and thereby maintain skin’s functionality and appearance.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cells and reagents - ATP measurement - PGE2, IL-6 and IL-8 measurements - Lamin B1 and Ki-67 immunofluorescence staining - Eigene gene analysis - UV challenge study
- RESULTS : Nam mitigates UV-induced inflammatory response - Secretion of inflammatory signals and gene expression patterns induced by environmental stressors in keratinocytes is mitigated by Nam - Treatment with topical 5% Nam can reduce UV-induced erythema and the ratio of the skin surface inflammatory biomarkers IL-1 aRA/IL-1 aDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12651 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JMyefjRlUnyZowe-9UsgBOlh5jEiZyVL/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35415
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 501-511[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Homogeneous distribution of fatty ester-based active cosmetic ingredients in hydrophilic thin films by means of nanodispersion Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Emilie Munnier, Auteur ; Almar Al Assaad, Auteur ; Stephanie David, Auteur ; Frédéric Mahut, Auteur ; Marylène Vayer, Auteur ; Louise Van Gheluwe, Auteur ; Florent Yvergnaux, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 512-519 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool polyvinylique
Couches minces
Dispersions et suspensions
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Nanotechnologie
Patchs cosmétiques
Pénétration (physique)
Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie)
VectorisationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Cosmetic films and patches are interesting forms to promote skin penetration of active ingredients as they ensure their long stay on the treated zone of the skin. Nevertheless, currently developed films and patches are most of all hydrophilic and are not adapted to the hydrophobic molecules. The aim of this study was to establish whether nanodispersion of fatty acid-based active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) could be a manner to introduce high concentrations of those ACI in hydrophilic films.
- Methods : Punica granatum seed oil hydroxyphenethyl esters (PHE) constitute a commercialized lipolytic cosmetic ingredient obtained by enzymatic conjugation of tyrosol to long-chain fatty acids and to enhance its skin diffusion. Nanodispersions of PHE were prepared by a green emulsion-solvent evaporation process and dispersed in polyvinyl alcohol films. Raman imaging coupled to multivariate analysis was used to study the distribution of PHE in the films.
- Results : Nanodispersions of PHE combined with antioxidant vitamin E and stabilized by Pluronic® F127 were successfully prepared. The nanodispersions show a spherical shape and a hydrodynamic diameter close to 100 nm. Raman images analysis with multivariate approaches showed a very homogeneous distribution of PHE nanodispersions in the films compared to free PHE introduced as an ethanol solution.
- Conclusion : Nanodispersions of hydrophobic fatty acid-based ingredients seem to be relevant method to introduce this type of ingredient in hydrophilic film matrix. The co-suspension with vitamin E limits their degradation in time.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Preparation of NanoPHE - Characterization of NanoPHE - Preparation and characterization of PHE-loaded PVA films - Raman imaging
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Preparation of nanodispersion of Punica granatum seed oil hydroxyphenethyl esters - Dispersion of PHE in polyvinyl alcohol films
- Table : Physicochemical characteristics of NanoPHE, initially or after 3 months of shelf life at room temperatureDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12652 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k0Z6a3kYNsXkJubOl3IrA6v3tOQoUyIp/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35416
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 512-519[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Potential anti-ageing effect of chondroitin sulphate through skin regeneration Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : D. Min, Auteur ; S. Park, Auteur ; H. Kim, Auteur ; S. H. Lee, Auteur ; Y. Ahn, Auteur ; W. Jung, Auteur ; H.-J. Kim, Auteur ; Y. W. Cho, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 520-527 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Cicatrisation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau âgée
Régénération (biologie)
Sulfate de chondroïtineIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin ageing is inevitably exposed through its typical features such as wrinkles and sagging. Therefore, skin anti-ageing is a major issue in cosmetic research to prevent and improve ageing symptoms using effective ingredients. Chondroitin sulphate (CS), a type of glycosaminoglycan, is an important structural component of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and is involved in various biological processes, such as cell proliferation, differentiation and migration. Here, we aimed to investigate the effects of CS on skin regeneration and examine its efficacy as a potential safe and effective skin anti-ageing ingredient.
- Methods : We investigated the effects of CS on cell proliferation in normal human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Then, cell migration, ECM synthesis and related signalling pathways were examined in fibroblasts through gene and protein expression analysis. Finally, the effect on skin wound healing and regeneration was validated using a full-thickness skin wound model and an aged skin model.
- Results : Chondroitin sulphate treatment increased the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. It also stimulated the migration and synthesis of ECM components of fibroblasts. Further analysis revealed that CS induced the expression of type I procollagen by activating the extracellular signal-regulated kinase pathway. Using a full-thickness skin wound model and an aged skin model, we confirmed that CS treatment promoted skin wound healing and regeneration.
- Conclusion : Together, our results indicated that CS has the potential to facilitate skin regeneration, implying that CS could be clinically applied to improve skin ageing.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture - Cell proliferation assay - Cell motility assay - Quantitative real-time reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) - Measurement of type I procollagen synthesis - Western blotting - Wound healing assay using skin wound model and swept-source optical coherence tomography (SS-OCT) imaging - Evaluation of skin regeneration efficacy using an aged skin model - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : CS enhances the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and facilitates migration of fibroblasts - CS promotes the synthesis of ECM components in fibroblasts - ERK activation by CS contributes to increases in type I procollagen levels in fibroblasts - CS promotes skin wound healing and regeneration in a fullthickness skin wound model - CS promotes epidermal regeneration in the aged skin modelDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12645 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BFMCz7i42nJJ8sSCST3Mx-jj8-F3QZ6L/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35417
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 520-527[article]Exemplaires
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